Thank you so much!

Haha! Thank you!

Let me know how it goes!

Oh good!

Haha I was too!

LOTS of carving! And thank you!

excellent!

Either the LOS needs to be warm or the piece. The LOS lasts longer than just one day if it remains room temperature, so I prefer that method.

wonderful!

@@ringgoldnicI’m getting closer to making this……..it’s taken me eight years! ( I paint and bash copper for embellishing oak frames ala arts and crafts)….anyway I have a question Nicole……I made a stamp for branding my wooden frames and stamping the copper, and hopefully silver in the future….it’s similar to your tattoo, so I don’t want to use it if it has some profound meaning, I’ll change it. My mums maiden name is Norwegian, ‘Broberg’ it means mountain bridge in Norse. So you can see the obvious symbolic echo. A mountain with a bridge. What does actually symbolise, your tattoo that is. Ignore me if I’m being familiar and or rude.🙏

thank you so much!

Wonderful, thank you!

Thank you!

Great idea! I'd love to see the skylines/cities come to life.

@ringgoldnic Just imagine London or Nyc a skyline with lots of many shaped buildings it would indeed be a tall bracelet around 9cm depth I reckon but you could layer and layer possibly even insert a amber bead or something for the eiffel tower light. Or empire state light. So many variations its certainly food for thought isn't it. Even Chicago with all those water ways and you could easily represent the wind with your round burring tool and attempt a blue patina I'm the canal/river part. I'm going to certainly play around with some of these ideas. But because I am super new I am only using copper right now silver too expensive here in UK. How do I join fuse copper to copper? Just plenty flux with a low and slow approach untilvi hit that dark red ? Anyhowbi talk too much if you can offer a idea I'd love to hear. Ps will be coating the piece after too to stop from tarnishing I want my design to remain

@@kirtandrews1859 fusing does not need flux, and the temperature of your torch needs to be hotter than any normal soldering flame. I would encourage you to just play around to understand how hot your torch needs to be.

@ringgoldnic Thank you. Best way to learn I find is hands on. No pressure restraints just go for it. OK fab I like I don't need to use solder jsut yet just to fuse copper to copper. I was thinking possibly tiny rivets maybe if needed

Great idea! Will do.

Sorry for the late response!!!! That’s awesome!

I tend to work very quickly. It took me about 2 hours. But if it's your first time, it might take 4+ hours...

I would still use 22 for the back plate, but then you can use 24 for the top layers

22, dead soft sterling

It's one of the larger ones in this set: www.riogrande.com/product/lynx-square-cross-cut-burs-set-of-12/348715GP/?code=348715

Thanks a million!! ​@@ringgoldnic

Thank you so much!

I do! I have a collection release coming up this Friday at 9am Pacific. Thank you for asking!

Great question! I should have talked about this as I was creating the demo. Once I soldered the second layer on, I used my nylon mallet to hammer it down so that it became flush with the back plate. Then I ran my torch across the entire piece again so that the solder on the overlapping portions of the mountain flowed between the layers. Does that make sense?

Yes it does! Thank you. I’ve seen so many pieces where I’ve wondered about how they did this very thing! Thanks for clearing that up for me!