Thanks! We have the technology to go driverless, but that would take all the fun out of it.

We were going to lay track a year ago but there was a ledge in the way.

What’s the reason for staggering the joints. I’ve only ever seen that in North America, in the UK the joints were always in line.

@@squeaksvids5886 Well Squeaks...the one "solid" rail opposite a jointed rail, provides some "support" to keep the rail joint in alignment and prevent a rail joint kink. When rail joints are opposite one another (in a curve particularly), there's too great a chance for gross alignment deviation. Wheel flanges are likely to climb the uneven rail alignment and derail. Best too, to stagger the rail joints so the truck wheels sets are not both hitting a rail joint at the same time. One last comment...not sure if your comment was in regards to full sized railroads...or the large scale railroad. Same rationale would apply in both cases.

@@carlbaskin270 Thanks.

Interesting little discussion. I thought the same question. It seems to be only North America that likes the idea of staggered joints. In New Zealand, we keep our joints square on curves. We will cut the inside rail to match the outside rail. Put it down to different engineering philosophies I suppose.

@@bigkiwimike When I’ve seen older films of trains in North America on jointed rails the passenger and freight cars seem to sway from side to side.

The best way? That depends who you ask, which explains the differences you've seen. The best way I've found is to use pressure treated 2x2's, or more specifically, 2x4's ripped down the middle and cut to 12 inch lengths. It is quite strong, it is easy to tamp and level, easy to change the ties when they rot, quite economical compared to other methods and they tend to be easier to drain than full width 2x4's, which can make them last longer. That's my experience, anyway.

@@MillBrookRailroad Thank you for your reply. What's the best and most economical way to get started on this adventure? There is a club here in Oklahoma called LOCO (Locomotive Operators of Central Oklahoma) that I have considered joining.

*Trestle.

The trestle was built by Banta Modelworks, who also built the locomotive and rolling stock. This is at their factory.

Knowing Bill, they probably do or can work with some modification but I don't know for sure.

Pressure treated 2x4's.

@@MillBrookRailroad Thanks!

Vermont

The track is 7-1/4. The flanges are 1/8" deep. A big part of the struggle is an inability to control ballast flow out of the hopper and that 7-1/4" gauge equipment is so light.

@@MillBrookRailroad yeah I thought the weight is the main factor kind of makes sense to make them light so you can manually re rail them yourself thank you for your reply, I suppose on your own railway you could build them heavier but then you open the can of worms of more train weight needs more tractive weight and ultimately a bigger locomotive its not me nit picking just a observation I love the railway

@@marknewell7355 Well, that's exactly it. The heavier the car, the harder it is to move it around and the more pain it is to put it back on the rails when it goes off.

This particular railroad, which I was visiting, is 7-1/4" gauge and the locomotive is powered by deep cycle batteries.

There is a Shay on the errecting floor in the SHFR shop. I can neither confirm nor deny that it is for the SHFR. The Mill Brook, on the other hand, will not be getting steam anytime soon. We build electric locomotives.

I'll have to ask Bill next time I see him.

Property maintenance, small agriculture or forestry or just as a hobby. The Stoddard Hill Farm Railway is a hobby railway but the Mill Brook Railroad is for property maintenance, light agriculture and light forestry.