I feel like there are no good hobbyist grade fume extractors. They are either the really dinky plastic desktop one with a computer fan and a filter I'm not sure does much, or they're a ridiculously expensive industrial thing some people might have to take out loans to buy. There should be more 100-200 dollar fume extractors which are just a stiff hose that goes to a box with proper filters, preferably from a company I trust to actually make sure its doing the safety it promises to because I don't have a testing facility in my basement, no matter what my hoarding of parts may say.

Have both, use both, pick one depending on whether or not the kids might handle it. Good lead free isn't much harder than leaded, especially if you've got plenty of flux. "You already do that, yes? You're nodding?" Lol! I do actually, paid the medium bucks for the Hakko one after deciding that opening my office window to insert a repurposed bathroom exhaust fan every time I soldered was a pain. Not the strongest thing ever, but if the workbench stays clean I can keep it close to the work, and all is well 👍

I still use lead solder... I had to give up on lead free. It was terrible. I know a girl who works for a company that builds custom wiring harnesses for the military and they are %100 not allowed to used lead free solder, the military wants only lead based solder because they had terrible issues with lead free solder

I have a big roll I inherited from my father. I don't know what type but it works really well. Even though I use it all the time there will still be most of it left to pass on to my child.

I have a total of 6 rolls of solder at my job as an electrical engineer. Every one of them serves a specific purpose. My main roll of solder is Felder ISO-Core ultra clear SN96.5AG3CU0.5. I use it for everything where I have a clean surface, it has REL0 flux in it, which is not toxic. The next roll of Solder I employ is the Stannol SN95.5AG3.8CU0.7 - it has ROM1 flux, so it can be used for surfaces that are not perfectly clean, the fumes are more toxic. Then I have a roll of Stannol 99.3CU0.7 ORH1, and I only use it for very oxidized surfaces. Then I have the weller SN96.5AG3.0CU0.5 with REM1 flux. It is used for repairs of electronic equipmenent and has the best wetting ability from all of them - it is possibly a quality issue tho. Now on to the leaded solders: I have a roll of Felder ISO-core "EL" 60/40, I believe the flux type is RMA/ROM1, I use it for repairs on old equipment that had leaded in it before. Then I have a mystery roll that has no flux in it, and I assume it also is 60/40, I only use it for repairs where I get to use a bunch of external flux. I have probably a bit of lead poisoning, when I was a kid I was able to just buy 60/40 from the hardware store and used about 2 rolls from 9-21 yeas old. Last year I had to step up my soldering game at the company, so I researched and bought myself Stannol Kristall 611 REL0 SN96.5AG3CU0.5 for the home use - to be very honest, I cannot understand how people hate lead-free that much - set the iron a bit higher and use external flux if very necessary - you will not really know a difference.

The company I work for used SAC305 NC up until I was hired and made the decision to switch to K100LD alloy from Kester. It provides a suitable joint at up to 65% less cost per roll than SAC305. Only real drawback is the eutectic state is slightly longer, but the overall quality and appearance are better than SAC305 as far as we are concerned with all the hand based soldering.

lead copper and silver is the one i always use

What fume extractor is that?

What about that Bismuth low melting point LF solder, Indium(100, or Indium-Tin. I've seen them on Digikey when browsing, there's several ratios available. How does it compare? Any thoughts on the Germanium doped solder from Chip-Quick? (No, I don't need all the shiny solders, but they're still shiny)

Talk about fume extractors

Tq sir

I see some people complain and as a total hobbyist, I think maybe they are just using bad lead free solders. SN100+ seems to be the bees knees. I dont think you can even get non shiny solder joints with it.

Lead-free solder has way too many drawbacks to being a good replacement for leaded solder. I would take a good eutectic solder alloy any day over lead-free. I don't think I have ever used a fume extractor in all the decades I have been soldering. A good HEPA air purifier in the room is all you really need if you are doing several hours of soldering. Lead-free connections are less reliable, more brittle, require temperature-controlled irons, and more aggressive flux to make decent connections.

Which one is the best to use with surface mount components??

I use leaded solder for repairing of Graphics Card and other PCBs and the repaired piece lasts forever until the user replace them to upgrade. While the original joint lasted for about 5-7 years. Lead free is too brittle and tend to crack while the leaded solder is softer and doesn't crack. I think companies switched to lead free to produce electronics that will die sooner so that their products keep selling.

I'm soldering 20 minutes per years and have a lot of herited solder with some lead and no fume extractor. Once I should have a over successful product I will change for sure.

Not nodding so much actually...

I almost bought lead free until the flux bit. I’ll just wash my hands

lead is always better is easier to use

i am not nodding i am noing

I'm using Sn100Ni+, and honestly it works just fine for me. And yes, I have used leaded before

worse fumes, you say?? well...