As an engineer, I'm more interested in 6-point on 6-point bolt vs 12-point on 12-point bolt, vs inside hex vs torx maybe? I know that's how tool trucks and shop sell them to you, but to me that screams wrong tool for the wrong fastener.

@@checksum00 That all sounds well and good on paper to engineers I'm sure, but the popularity of the traditional 12-point combination wrench is due to access. You need multiple angles of attack on a bolt head. 6-point box end may not slip, but once you turn it and can no longer re-position it, story is over there. 12-point, and spline here with some advantage it seems, offers you the access without 60° of arc needed between goes.

@@TorqueTestChannel oh yeah, totally get the use case here, and frankly as an amateur mechanic I mostly carry 12-point for that reason, and so I don't have to duplicate tools for the rare case I get 12-point nuts. I'm not use to those spline one, actually the first time I hear about them. I worked in aerospace and we mostly use socket head caps screws. Rule of thumb in the industry is that 6-point < 12-point < SHCS < torx and other proprietary screws format, but I never really saw backing data on that. That's why I think seeing a fights of format vs format using the right tool would be immensely interesting.

@@TorqueTestChannel true, but if the clearance is that limited, you're probably going to want a ratcheting wrench anyways.

@@SmallSpoonBrigade Needing to use 12-point for repositioning doesn't describe a very tight space. Swigging a 10" wrench 60 degrees takes up a lot of room. Of course if you want to get in a habit of breaking bolts free with a ratcheting wrench that's something you can do as well if you have a good warranty. We all have. But 12-point box end breaking bolts free still happens countless times a day around the shop so it's worth seeing this difference I feel.

ohhhhhh mannn did i get some memories

sad drops of blood mixed with grimy oil, dust, rust, and to make it better getting a cramp are my prefered ohh and foggy glasses now i could go on but its sciency enough for me

...and how low is the temperature 😉

Step right up to play Bust That Knuckle!🎉

I feels it, my cockiness ov strengths to my bleeding failures ov possible hope

Absolutely, living in the heart of the Adirondacks I know all too well what you're saying. As a rule a hot wrench and a six point is the way to go. I have a mini school bus with most everything so I use the right tool for whatever the job is.

Reefer tech/installer here. I need a good set of sockets for when I do service. Any recommendation for a good starter set?

@@ramirezmanuel117 tekton

An exorcism somewhere in between helps as well! I live in a place where they spray more salt than snow falls from the sky.

@@ramirezmanuel117 you're watching TTC, they have the answer to all tool questions.

A nice machined circle! Lol

I've worked on a secondhand spreading truck (this is an NZ one so yeah, a lot more rust than a USA one). I came across a 13mm bolthead that was rusted and stripped to a near perfect circle. Just hammered on an 11mm spline socket (yes two rare things used - spline AND 11mm!!). Cracked that bolt right off. So yes, splines are a very situation specific tool.

@@xap95 you underestimate the rust belt in the US. Up north the roads get salted all the time so if you dont wash your vehicles often enough they’ll literally fall apart from rust. I’ve seen frames that you could stick your finger through 80% of it because it was so rusted out. It was a miracle the thing drove to the shop.

@@bentrod3405 Yeah I've seen some online, I was merely offering an example (by "more rust than a USA one" i meant more rust than a USA *spreader truck*).

That's OK I have vice grips

I'd like to see the Tools themselves measured before testing. (like the nut measurements at 2:54 but for the inside of the tools. We might find that the widths directly relate to the slipping for 12-point and splines. Even Order the same tool from 3 different vendors and find the average for each tool. The 12-points were all over the place. GearWrench and PowerBuilt were low for 12 points, and I wonder if they make their parts wider, softer metal, or it was a fluke. Those companies could have lower tolerances or purposefully make wider tools for ease of use. Also, he didn't mention doing it, but run each tool 3 times with 3 different Bolts to account for errors in the bolt rounding. (or hire AvE to machine rounded heads)

Hahaha! So true!

I bought some in a kit but they're clearly marked as the "suicide kit".

That would be any cheap adjustable wrench

Hahaha the sad truth!

Isn't the swedish nut lathe much more efficient at a slightly lower RPM though?

12 points turn bolts into no points.

I thought this was a universal truth across the states. I remember being shocked that the local tool trucks even had 12 point anything on them. When asked they replied with, "New guys buy dumb shit."

Believe it or not there's still many non-believers that say an old fashioned 12-point box end is as good as any

@@TorqueTestChannel maybe they live in SoCal. Lol

I use a smaller 12pt and a good beater. Make new points when you can’t use the originals…. When a six pointer don’t work either.

I do this as well

Most wrenches sold are12pt box ends, but I want to get a few sets of metric in varying length and offset/drop at the ends in 6 point for helping get stuff

Correct me if I’m wrong, which I might be.. but bolts are not considered in “all authentic “ restorations” if you have one bad nut or fastener.. if your restoring a car.. would you not want to put an improved option on the car? I am not a mechanic, just a simple question for someone who wants to restore their 89 5.0.

@@Auto-Bots.Custom.Detailingit’s not always about improving, simply about not being able to get a new fastener. I stretched a flywheel bolt and found not a singe place that stocked them apart from where I bought the flywheel, having to ship it from an entirely different country. Not the same situation but fasteners can be really important to not damage.

Surely cheaper/easier/quicker to take the bolt and have a nut machined? Or even an off the shelf one? Must be a standard thread pitch and size I guess? ​@@fridtjofriibe5961

@@Auto-Bots.Custom.Detailingyou are not giving folks enough credit on complicating things. Ford Model A guys that want it "as Henry built it" will absolutely use as much old hardware as they can, and it is all pretty unique between the script F stamps and even shapes of the head and finishes. They will buy whole cars just to rob the bolts off.

Obviously only work on American cars. every 2nd bolt on real cars are 10mm ( Them there fight'n words... Joking but virtually true on every car built elsewhere in the world )

They do. You get that one for free.

The time elves steal them as you film, or attempt to bring to your truck

They are with all the single laundry socks.

They're also among the most common size bolt head in cars so I'd actually be super interested...

12 doesn't fit square, 8 pt for that

Challenge excepted I'll weld it you turn it hahahahaha

what about rounded splines ?

@@sMASHsound Weld a nut on it, torch it until it gives up and runs away, pray, hire a hitman, etc. Lots of ways to get the job done.

14mm 6-pt on a 9/16" bolt head...close tolerance (slight friction fit if rusty or zinc plated), NO play. You'll probably shear off the head before anything else fails. (FYI, 9/16" ~14.2mm, so a 14 fits, just barely).

torque specs are always given for clean dry bolts unless specifically noted, so if you want realistic, pragmatic results you would use clean dry threads when testing, not oiled.

@@alksmdlaks Interesting because every engine head bolt torque I've seen is spec'd wet.

​@@kleetus92 Bolts inside an engine are usually lubricated

True if testing torque ability of different brand spanners but only thing being test is the ability of types 6 point 12 point and spline types to see which style is best. This isn't a torque test.

@@kenjett2434 no thats not what I meant, I meant you need to test each spanner with a nut/bolt several times and take an average, the scatter in results can be quite high even when using the same setup.

Funk! My man. I'm in the same boat. They seem to chew up stuff too.

Idk, seems to me that they’d be useful for removing rusted on hardware. Wish I had some handy when I was tearing apart an old boat motor.

@@John_Doe_6996 That's why you have torches, penetrating fluid, extractor sockets and, in a pinch undersized 12 point sockets that get swing-pressed on

Splined is probably nice for those corroded fasteners 6 and 12 won't fit on and you know you should replace, but never do.

@@guillaumefraser3813 I don't think I have ever had any luck with penetrating oil on something that wouldn't already move. I call it put it off juice, cause I can spray a load on and put off that job till later while it "soaks".

I fear this man

Don't forget this guy. He doesn't have any recent videos but he has alot of videos that are fast moving, detailed, and extremely informative. An excellent speaker: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOmfpqZnMCwYnU.html

This channel is good but I can't fucking stand Project Farm's voice.

Love Project Farm videos. Always search his videos to see if he's tested something I am thinking about buying.

True

Keith's compare with PF and his statement of your value to us all, is, in my opinion, spot on! Thank you!!! PS Would love to see you test Milwaukee wrenches and others suggested by other subscribers.

But the two wrench puts more of a second pivot point then the extender which gives you more power baby

What's a two-wrench trick?

@@topchooo when you hook the round end of a wrench to the box end

2 wrenches? I've been using a steel pipe 😂

@@topchooo lol it's a life saver at times

I was considering those when I got the SK X-frame wrenches. Would be nice to have offset or flex head 6 point ratcheting wrenches

Too bad the weak point of the Tektons is the ratcheting mechanism.

Same, when I went looking for some better ones to replace my crappy no-name amazon specials I started out with I ended up with those specifically for the six point. Shame they've discontinued the reversible ones with the offset head, at least for now due to apparent supply chain issue, hoping that's not permanent, but merely "we don't have a reasoanble ETA on more so we're not even going to list them right now" situation. They do still offer six point flex heads, but me personally I just don't like how those feel if I really torque on something, which I know logically is probably dumb because if anything is gonna break it's gonna be the teeth before the pin lets go, but *shrugs* I just liked the solid offset heads better.

I have the extra long flexhead 6-point ratchet wrenches. They work well in the lot of circumstances, the six-point does Inspire confidence. The only catch is once in awhile they might snag up in a position where you don't have much room to swing it enough to get it off the fastener... not usually a big deal can usually jar it off with a hammer or something.

​@@sixtygrit9944 so you don't recommend the Tekton ratchet wrenches? is there a better one you recommend?

Same. 6 point have always worked best for me too.

Same. Other than a few instances, no need to ever have a 12pt socket. I never understood why people get them.

@@renalshomlmes338 12 point fasteners

Keep in mind guys, these tests were run on 40% rounded fasteners. If the hardware was new/less rounded, i expect the difference would be much smaller. And to top it off, the open end still got up to 60 lb ft. That's significant torque! If you have a fastener that needs 60+ lb ft of torque, and it's 40% rounded, you should be replacing said fastener, not worrying about what tool to use.

12 point spanner’s are much more useful overall especially in cramped areas but if something is real stuck.. you got to get that 6 point out.

We can do that, probably don't even need to start with rounded nuts to see the difference there either.

I’d be real interested in that kind of test with truck & Japanese brands. Truck brands are a known quantity, more or less, the Japanese brands less so.

I would like to see this as well. God knows every once in a while you get a fastener or if you work on hydraulics a lot. Where a open end is the only thing you can get on the fastener.

@@TorqueTestChannel a good idea would be to also to test Milwaukee open end wrenches with the extra grip point and flank drive and snap on open wrenches with their flank drive and see if it gets any closet to 6 point

@@nikking5277 And Proto's Anti-Slip Design wrenches (especially since you already have them).

Joe? Larry? Bob? Is that you? Trust me, you are not alone, Brian! I know several 12-point mechanics.

I’ve been working on cars for a year n always thought 12 points were the weakest jus based on lack of surface area.

Rip to all the rounded bolts

Lol. You must be crazy. 6 point always felt the best and pretty much never slip. 12 points are completely different.

On things you engineered?? Quit now and save the world some pain!! lol j/k :).

Absolutely right. A 6-point wrench has the most surface-area contact, maximum contact area = best traction, all other things being equal.

12 point tends to be used (correctly) in tight spaces inside stuff that's going to be well maintained and not turn rusty. Inside engines, or in tight spots in aircraft construction where there won't be space to turn a whole flat at a time on a 6 point. Where they'll not be subject to corrosion, and good practise is applied i.e. fasteners are torqued to spec as designed 12 point is absolutely fine. They're crap if allowed to corrode, and they're not compatible with those types who just crank everything as tight as they feel like.

To this note shouldn't we test a 6, 12, & spline wrench/socket on their corresponding bolts?...surface area!

If the engineer did his job and gives you at least 90 deg to turn then it is, else ... But in the end, to be frank, if the bolts are fastened to the spec, even a wonky open wrench does the job just fine. If the wrench fails on tightening you are overdoing it.

Same experience for me, I work on classic cars, so regularly encounter stubborn nuts and bolts. Had my tools stolen and when I replaced, I purchased a full Craftsman set, lifetime warranty, and all sockets and ring spanners come in both 6pt & 12pt. Adequate quality tools and gives me a bigger selection, so I can pick the right tool for the job.

Yep. I’ve learned the hard way to only use 12 pt as a last resort.

Was about to say this myself. I feel the spline wrench used correctly on a spline bolt would blow the others away completely.

At the risk of sounding dumb I’m not a massive thinker about these things but I mean this definitely just seems like the same pattern wrench for the same pattern bolt seems to just common sense to be best the 6 on 6 gives less room to move or round off like a 12 on 12 or spline on spline

Using a tool that isn't designed for the bolt are usually less effective than a tool that is designed for the bolt.

@@killertruth186 in other news, the sky is blue.

@@branaden which was not the point of this video. Most nuts and bolts people encounter on a day-to-day basis are 6-point. Box end wrenches are easier to find as 12-point or spline, so which one should a person with limited funds get when 6-point box ends are few & far between when you need one in a pinch, can't get a 6-point to fit due to angles and space for a wrench, or are just starting to build your tool collection? This video gives us useful info to consider.

I have a Metrinch socket set since the early 90's. Great set bar for one size: 9/16- 14mm. From brand new it slipped on both metric and imperial (perfect nuts and bolts). Just a fuck up in manufacturing the size- couldn't see any defect. Can attest to their strength and grip- never had any other size slip even on a fairly rounded wheel nut.

Yep, I had some wall drive sockets and metrinch spanner’s, they were really good on high torque, but clumsy to use.

Yep, absolute life savers when it comes to undo already rounded stuck nuts. It's crazy that these seem to have completely vanished from the market although they are the best ones. Makes you wonder...

@@pourquoippaass4284 they haven't vanished. They've just become the Norm for the major tool industries. Look at any snap-on, Mac, or matco Adv sockets they all have a "kerf" or a little round spot on the points of the hex in the socket. This allows the point of the hardware to not contact and instead it grabs on the flats.. its just so common now they don't even advertise it

You will find with enough experience that you're going to need both 6 & 12 point sockets & combo wrenches depending on what you're working on.

The @AVE channel has a bit about this: Look at the depth of the tall sockets, cheapo brands the bolt will go the entire length of the socket. Better brands typically have more shallow "depths". Allowing you to better hand start the bolt when putting it back in.

my inexperienced opinion is that while they may be more effective and bite better, they also probably damage the bolt head

@@ciarangale4738 same here. i think its fine to use spline wrench when bolt/nut is damaged and you are replacing it anyways

@@KulegaRycha true enough. Its enough, though, that id avoid them unless i had the budget and space for a general set and a backup set of splines

@@ciarangale4738 My issue was looking at the newly round bolt head and wondering what to try next.

Spline wrenches should be used on splined fasteners.

There's a reason spiral fluted extractors have six flutes. You'd think that would be a clue the first time you have to use one.

@@kd5nrh Yes, and how many 12-point spark plug sockets have you seen? The cool thing about a 30-year-old set of 12-point deep sockets that you might have sitting around your garage is this: the spark plug socket insulator/rubber has long since deteriorated, making it a fine 6-point deep socket for general use now ... and guess what can outperform the 12-point deep sockets next to it?!

exactly why im not wasting my time to watch this video, i already know the answer.

That’s why I buy 6 point everything, although I have had some luck with spline drive grabbing on some partially rounded bolts so I keep a set of them handy. Regular 12 point is just great at turning hexagons into circles

Fair enough, but that's not the end that was collapsing. The nut would compress length wise, and budge at the dyno side. Which was full of grade 8 thread.

The point wasn't to test maximum torque but simply to compare wrenches to one another. Since they compress the same way each time and they all slip at some point it doesn't matter.

Doesn't really matter considering that the only wrenches capable of doing that where the 6 point wrenches. It isn't really important how much torque you can put on something, nor is it the point of the video, it's a matter of 'how much more torque' which they've shown wonderfully here.

​@@TorqueTestChannel I think what actually justifies your methodology, as FoxPro points out is that you are doing a comparative not absolute test. But the point about the open threads allowing distortion of the head is well taken, as anybody who's wrenched professionally for very long knows, the most difficult nut to remove is a flare nut for this very reason.

12 point have worst ewer. big shit, only used cheap tools.

Absolutely! I've seen 8hrs + spent in a heavy truck shop just getting the 10 stainless Phillips screws out of the shifter boot in the cab on an otherwise 4 hr transmission removal and clutch replacement! Couldn't heat em because of plastic, Couldn't drill too stringy an overheat plastic, no impact drivers, floor too springy, using valve lapping compound on the driver bit is the most effective by far. I detest flat (straight blade) and have loudly called Mr Phillips everything not in the dictionary and suggested where he could store his fasteners! Best tool for that I always carry in my pocket is a Rigid 6" pipe wrench with the jaw rivets flattened so it lays flat enough to grip screw heads.

Wanna have a laugh at my expense? My country still doesn't sell square, hex(internal and external), torx screws for general use. Square is always for decking screws Hex is always 8mm or thicker Torx is always on a stainless steel bolt. I'd kill for a packet of 30mm long 8 gauge square head screws

Hex screws are a gift from god

hex were always ones for heavier jobs. That being said it's pretty impossible if you want the screwhead to be flat and compact ( electronics, glasses small stuff ).

@@jakubrogacz6829 Nonsense. If you look at just about any flatheads or phillips, they all require depth for tools to slot into.

This is what we use: amzn.to/38P2mzo

I had no idea this was a thing.

There nice I picked one up off the truck about a month ago they make a couple different size and I manage to use it Atleast a few times a week well worth it

The absolute best is the Mueller-Kueps Wrench Extender (three sizes) but they're so easy to make! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bOCahLaFx7LXeo0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d6yFapaolq2zpqs.html or the ultimate lazy; flatten a piece of 3' round pipe till your wrench just fits in it. Done. (that's the one on the front of the alignment rack)

I've always used the interlocking wrenches method.

The "Bus Grease Monkey" and his son, "Indiana Diesel" both use and endorse the Knipex pliers. I may have to pick up a set.

„Dad/guy who taught me did not use them and they are from another country so they must be shit“ - but don‘t be sad, few ppl in Germany use Vise-Grips for the same reason, that might be because we have great Knipex Pliers but you still have to hold them shut.

I can do 50nm of torque in the right direction with the tinniest 125mm knipex wrench pliers and even the 150mm still fits on my pocket for every day carry. And I own the 250mm/12" ever since I saw a youtuber use it years ago. They work amazingly well without slipping or damage anything. And if you pull your nose up for knipex you're an absolute fool, who need vice-grips of your knipex cobra's actually grip instead of slide over something round. Knipex is THE brand for pliers if you ask me.

@@0b3rz0nK I like vice-grips for removing damaged hardware but that's about all they're good for, either creating or removing damaged hardware.

@@0b3rz0nK the pressure keeps the knipex closed by itself tho...

yup, never have I ever grabbed a slightly smaller socket and hammered it on to get a nice fit.

14mm plus a hammer to seat the tool works great to break damaged 9/16 free.

I do alot of work on my vehicles and I'm often times using a 1/2 for a 13mm bolt or nut. I have just assumed they are one in the same except one is metric and the other is SAE. Never really occurred to me that they should not work that way.

thats why i stack up on several wrenches of the same size and pick the one that fits best, nuts and bolts also have wild diferences

@@moviemaker2011z 1/2" is 12.7mm - definitely not the same, especially if you're dealing with supposed "precision" machining, but quite close

Yep. Exactly what I was thinking.

No joke that sound made me flinch every time!

Flank drive and flank drive plus.

You got it

@@TorqueTestChannel if do this test, could you please include the "WaveDrive Pro" design by capri... aka infar wrenches

@@TorqueTestChannel maybe test different adjustable wrenches? Like the US made Proto and rigid(made by the same company I believe), a couple of the Japanese ones like the Nepros and lobster brand, and maybe the Spanish made channel lock, those are supposed to be pretty good crescent wrenches. Also maybe throw in some cheap Chinese ones for fun.

@@KimballPrecisionRifles also include raptor adjustable wrench. They are sold at furgeson supply stores.

Gator grip sockets are a godsend on wingnuts too, not just eyebolts. I have one specifically for installing and removing cables on difficult to access aircraft batteries. I might use it occasionally on something like a battery tiedown nut just so I don't have to go back and get another socket, but wingnuts are where it outperforms every other tool commercially available.

A SPLINE WRENCH IS MADE FOR SPLINE HEADED BOLTS

They work on 4, 6, and 12 point as well as square, Etorx, and of course are the only one out there that work properly on spline heads, they're not as good as dedicated versions of each but they will grip and turn, they can also work on some thumb nuts or wing nuts

@@paulhailey2537 That really doesnt matter at all. Remember, Anything is a Hammer if you use it wrong enough except in this case you cant use it wrong. A Spline Wrench will work just fine on any bolt head.

I'm going to ask something that has boggled me for years. Why are you, specifically, a brony? For real, not "it's a great show" excuses.

@@Sharpless2 and will work as well as any other wrench of the same sizing as a hammer too!!!

Yeah, but outside of making stuff harder to steal by fully rounding the fasteners, I just don't have a use for 12 point sockets.

@@kd5nrh 12 points is great for torx on cars.

I quit having stripped fastener problems a while after I started replacing hardware when it had any sign of damage (instead of using again). I’ve had to build quite a hardware stock, but it’s great. I realized a few years ago that screwdrivers wear out, and replacing them with quality prevents a lot of trouble too.

Agree. 6 point is always going to be preferable to 12 points any day. Do you ever use the 'wall drive' type of sockets or spanners?

Yeah, 6 point is my go to now

@@howardosborne8647 no I don't have any

We plan to for open ends (requested in comments here) but you can't measure spline and 12-point you can but it's not as comparable to 6-point. More like between 12-points. Because of where you need to measure it.

Thank you. Came here to say this.

@@TorqueTestChannel I'm just a 'youtube expert' but I think the right measurement tool for this would be gauge pins. I think measuring the largest cylinder that fits in the wrench at all ends will give you a very good idea of the tolerance, rather than attempting to use calipers to do it.

@@TorqueTestChannel Test angular deviation at a fixed distance from the nut. That will give you apples to apples tolerance. Sorta. Maybe lemons to limes comparison haha.

@@TorqueTestChannel Thats rather unfortunate, i feel like more quality control goes into the splined tools just based on how much better they look. Im willing to bet that plays a major part in the differences you saw.

Seconded would libe a video on this

That's my main problem with using spline: They have a tendency, especially on softer stuff, to cause problems. Granted my experience isn't the most common, but aircraft can use stuff like aluminum bolts. Using spline might destroy them when I need them to go back on-and same with the fittings. Besides, they're supposed to be torqued to a relatively low number (3/4" high-pressure fittings get, say, 70 ft/lbs max torque) often, so open-ended wrenches are typically more than enough.

I've never used them because they just look like they might mangle a good fastener.

The rounded outer corner was something that started appearing in the 90's if I remember correctly, and I first saw it on six side box end wrenches. I was pretty skeptical at the time as it looked like yet another gimmick but it turned out to actually work as intended. Last I took a walk down the isles of wrenches in a hardware store it seemed almost every brand was using that design. A six sided socket with sharp corners didn't seem to exist on the shelves. Now I've never used a spline drive socket or wrench though. I can't help but thinking they have to chew up the nut pretty badly though.

Being a mechanic, there are some VERY tight spaces you get in where 12 point is needed. Also, many socket ratchets are in the 4-3 degrees movement for the same reason, tight spaces.

yeah i dont get why ratcheting wrenches are almost universally made with 12 point ends.. i live in eastern canada 5 year old vehicles have rusted bolt that need sockets hammered onto them... would appreciate some 6 point ratchetting wrenches that done cost their weight in lumber

@@brucemadden1626 If you have a high tooth count ratchet for tight spaces then a 12 point socket isn't really giving you any extra benefit except maybe taking a second or two less to align. In something like a box end it is a different story because there is only so far you can actually adjust your position. I still think that for your average person who just wants a reliable socket set for around the house a 6-point is probably going to serve them better.

​@@brucemadden1626 my friend in tech school had Mac fine toothed 3/8 ratchet that was a beast for stuck fasteners in hard to reach places even with a cheater bar on it never broke

@@AndrewBrowner wow, I just looked to see what options are out there for 6 sided ratcheting box wrenches and saw that Tekton makes some and usually their stuff is reasonable, but wow. I'll keep my harbor freight 12 point ratcheting wrenches, and my 6 sided socket set. If it's ever too stripped for a wrench or too tight for a socket, I'll grab my locking crescent wrench and pray for mercy

Agreed. I have the flex head ratcheting spline wrenches up to 3/4" and they're excellent, especially in a tight space. Wouldn't trade them for anything. Got the regular 12pt combo up to 1 5/8" for double-wrenching and using as strike wrenches lol

About 10 years ago, I found a couple well used PROTO wrenches that had been lost/left by somebody on the side of the road and threw them in my box--they were metric as is my vehicle so I figured they'd be useful some day.....I used them a couple times and it was pretty apparent that they were 'different' in a good way. I've been a 'car guy' since the 1970's and an A&P since 1983 so I have some knowledge of tools.....A set of the PROTO metric wrenches is in my box today along with MAC and SnapOff and Harbour Freight and a few others....lol. Whatever works is best...

That's a big lump of money.

When you say "surface drive" I assume that is the one with the slightly convex (bowed inward) "flat" in the spanner's ring?

"Surface Drive" was originally called "Flank Drive" by Snap-On when they invented it years ago. It has rounded points at the corners of the spanner or socket opening so that the torque is applied to the fastener a little way in from the corners of the nut or bolt and therefore is less likely to round off the fastener. It also works better on slightly rounded fasteners. This is widely copied by other manufacturers now the patent has expired. Another benefit is that they tend to be a "sloppy fit" on the nut/bolt so you can get away with using a metric socket/spanner on an slightly larger inch fastener or vice versa when the sizes are close, e.g. 1/2"-13mm, 14mm-9/16", 5/8"-16mm, 17mm-11/16" etc. I think that Metrinch are using this characteristic to offer a reduced number of sockets or spanners in a set, as they definitely are "surface drive". It would seem that some if not all the sockets and spanners tested here have "surface drive" openings but I can't be sure. Comment please Torque Test Channel. One more thing, the spline drive spanners look impressive, but if you are using a spanner it probably means that you can't get a socket in there because access is tight. If the spline drive bites into the nut you won't be able to remove it to swing it 30 degrees and refit it. If it's a spline drive socket and it is firmly gripping the nut you will have a struggle to get it out of the socket after you have taken the nut off the bolt.

@@bimble7240 Pretty much any socket you can buy here in Norway is the flank drive style with rounded corners. Not seen a flat face on a socket in years.

I've had a set of metwrench for longer than I can remember. Bought them at Wal-Mart for IDK 25 dollars when i needed to fix something one day and did not have any tools with me. They have proven themselves time and time again. Their grip is amazing even tho they feel sloppy on everything. Unless it's completely rounded or rusted away. I have never broken one and I've used a cheater bar many many times on them. The boxed end wrenches are good as well. Double wrenched or a cheater pipe on them lots of times as well. The open ends are nearly useless as they require about ⅜ of a turn before grabbing the bolt / nut. But take warning, buy pretty much any other brand of ratchets to go with these great sockets and throw the ones that come in the set into the scrap pile as soon as you open the box. Their ratchets are a waste of metal

@@bimble7240 that is a piece of history I didn't know. The design I had in mind was this: images.app.goo.gl/zjgxkAeLB9MkoWis8 Is it the same thing as a 'standard' flank drive? The reason I ask is that I live in Europe and heard about metrinch about 8 years ago (was on a training course from work). Surface drive I read about only 3 to 4 years ago when looking trough a catalogue for a replacement mini socket set. Since I work is in the electrical side of the business, I am not that familiar or updated with al the designs that are available. Thanks in advance.

SK are comparable, I have both

I have a an early 1900s 1 inch drive ratchet and socket set I love. I was always curious if snap on got its beginnings with Proto. I have heard that but never was sure

The coefficient of kinetic friction is always less than the coefficient of static friction. Physics. That is why a car which is skidding will continue to slide till it hits something or you get the wheels turning to match the direction of skid. After that you can start to re-establish control.

@@20chocsaday yes, precisely

@@KyleRepinski That's what I told my driving examiner but he insisted on which circumstances might cause it. (Then he failed me).