Hello! When jointing two items together, it's always preferable to have a plane that is longer than the edges you'll joint. With that being said, the 7 1/2 would be the choice with its added length. One way around that is to have a jig (in this case, specifically a chuting board) that has a plane track that is longer than the the side of the material you wish to joint. This changes the source of the flatness from the plane's length to the jig's track. One last element I prefer in a plane for this scenario is mass. While a razor sharp iron is a given, I like a plane that once moving, will keep moving without undue input from the user. A useful tip: if you joint both pieces at the same time (either both on the chuting board at the same time with the important edges lined up or both held in the face vise together). This way anything that prevents the plane from cutting at a 90-degree angle to the sides won't matter. The two pieces will receive complementary angles and when laid out, will still come together as a flat top. Let us know if you have any further questions!

Both the No. 7 and the 7 1/2 are the same length, while the 7 is almost a pound heavier. The irons on the two planes are .140" thick for the 7 and .240" thick for the 7 1/2, which you'd expect the L/A plane to be thicker, since it has no chip breaker (nor does it need one). I tend to lean towards the No. 7, if you are mainly getting this to use as a jointer. I find the iron advancement is additionally fine on the design used in the No. 7, and the extra weight is helpful when flattening large items (I personally own the No. 8). Just remember to do what I do, and that is apply a small swipe of paraffin to the sole of the jointer, which makes a huge difference with fighting the resistance between the metal and the wood. You'll notice the difference immediately and when you feel like it's more difficult to push, hit it with another quick swipe. (Don't use any silicone product on the sole as it can interfere with at least some finishes) On the 7 1/2 side, one of the strong positives is the flexibility it possess much like the L/A Jack plane. Many prefer to purchase a spare iron (or two) and have them honed up with different micro-bevel angles. This can be advantageous when working highly figured grain, so you could hone a spare iron at 45 or 50 degrees, on top of the bedding angle of 12 degrees, which would put the effective cutting angles of 57 and 62 degrees respectively. The converse of the "heft" aspect I spoke about with the No. 7 is if someone doesn't feel they either can or want to deal with the extra mass, which is not all that different than those who prefer the old wooden planes, which are all much lighter than metal planes. So there are some aspects of each plane that are sought after, and some that personal preference might tend to steer you away. I'm absolutely positive that the No. 8 is the right tool for me, and without knowing your personal situation, I think the No. 7 might be your best bet. I hope you'll find some benefit from what I've written. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have, just in case I've missed something you find important. Lee Laird

Thank very much for your answer, I really apreciate it! I just wanted to ask another question regarding № 7 plane and a 7 1/2 Low angle. Which plane is more easy to push (work with), Low angle or standard angle? (If the blade advances the same on both panes?) Thank you very much for your time and help!

The number 7 is a bench/jointer plane. The bed angle is much steeper and the iron is inserted into the plane, bevel down. This differs greatly from the 7-1/2, which is a low angle plane. The bed angle is much lower and the iron is inserted into the plane, bevel up (like it is on block planes). The really low angle works well when trimming end grain. It would also be suitable for fast stock removal on face grain, though it could lift and tear diving grain from the opposite direction and give more tear out than the bench plane, with it's steeper bed angle The 7-1/2 could be set up for use as a trimming (shooting plane) for miter work as well. The primary intended purpose of use for the two models is different. The number 7 is a jointer plane and the 7-1/2 is a long-soled block plane for slicing end grain efficiently.