same, the amount of info online and is sometimes contradicting. My wife inherited an old family house, stone built, over a hundred years old, the house is fine but we leveled out a piece of land for a car park and built a wall around it for the garden to butt up against. in one of the storerooms I found 120kilos of powdered lime, so I'm looking into plastering the wall with that from the start.

You’re welcome! Are you interested in plastering a home?

You’re welcome!

Thanks!

What is parge?

Thanks 🙏 have fun with your build. I’ll check you guys out.

Control joints are always a good idea! Put them vertically at window and door edges and that is probably enough.

We have loads of old rock-built cottages in Britain which were plastered inside and rendered outside in lime. If you want to protect the outside, but keep the rock look, you can do what is called a "bagged finish", where you slop the render up, and instead of trowelling, they used to use old sacks to rub the finish down. It ends up showing the shape of the wall underneath. Just search for "lime bagged finish" and you'll see what I mean.

I was going to ask the same question. We're building an aircrete dome and I'm looking for a waterproof but environmentally friendly cover/sealant

I’d be scared I would mess up the finish with a wooden trowel. Never tried that. Does that burnish the finish?

@@HeirloomBuilders It doesn't burnish. After the wooden trowel I use a clean steel trowel to go over it one last time.

@@metallitech Is your source for quicklime anywhere near Las Vegas or within a few hundred miles?

@@christinebaker3293 No, I'm in the UK.

@@metallitech Lucky you! Been learning so much from UK builders and love the many historic buildings.

😂

Hey Matthew! If I were building in Ontario, I would build a 2x6 wall with 2-4” of exterior rock wool insulation, with a rain screen mesh on top and fiberglass lath on top of that to hold the lime plaster. If you use 4” of exterior insulation, you should look into z girts to attach the lath. Don’t apply lime plaster directly to rough cut wood or osb, unless that’s going to be on the interior, like old school wood lath and plaster interior wall finishes.

I would look into straw-clay system.

I use the same ratio of 1 part lime putty to 3 parts sand for every coat. I make the first coat more wet than the final coats so that it doesn’t dry out before it has time to cure.

You may want to look into bonding agents that will help the lime adhere to the cement stucco. Or mix a little cement in with the first coat of lime (like bonds to like) 👍

@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you so much. Greetings from Serbia

@@HeirloomBuilders Wow! You just saved me a bunch of time and research- or more accurately, pointed me in the right research direction. I'm doing aircrete domes, and I wasn't satisfied with the stucco top coat idea. Many thanks!

​@@B30pt87how did the lime plaster go on the aircrete? I'm thinking of doing the same

1” thick on the outside. Thicker in some spots that needed fill.

Welcome aboard!

Is this a shed, or a house you’re talking about. You would need to add mesh Rainscreen and lath

Thank you. Yes it would, with the right prep work.

Thank you! Much appreciated.

As far as I know you can use lime plaster on cement. You will likely need a bonding agent though.

Don't put lime directly onto steel though. It eats into it! You need to use stainless steel or plastic fixings. So if you have a steel frame, have something between that and the lime.

Yes, you can see the 1/4” hardware cloth mounted on a wood frame we use to screen this sand for the exterior render. Interior plaster may need a finer 1/8” screen to get a smoother finish.

We got our lime putty from Adam’s products an old castle company. Any masonry supply store should be able to get it.

just my 2 cents: lime plaster is so gorgeous as is. It has such depth. Painting over it makes it look so one dimensional

Probably not a good idea over paint without some kind of lime binder or heavy scratching of the painted surface to help it key in.

@@HeirloomBuilders thanks for replying! Have a great weekend

@@laurahinojosa2742 disfruta el fin de semana!

@@HeirloomBuilders wow!!! Gracias! Que gusto leerle en español

You definitely want the mason sand.

@@HeirloomBuilders : happen to know that beach sand is more rounded, mason's sand is more angular. Something more like crushed gravel as opposed to regular rounded river gravel.

@@garywheeler7039 do NoT use beach sand ever salt will destroy the wall

​@@garywheeler7039you are rite beach sand is more rounded AND like mentioned above has salt that destroys walls, however another real reason to use masons sand is the angular cut of the sand lock in against each other preventing movement and slippage whereas particulates of rounded sand will move and slip n slide around each other ! Visualize smashing a case of bottles up into pea size pieces and putting them in a bucket, then try pushing a stick to the bottom of the bucket. The stick won't penetrate the glass because of the jagged edges locking together. If you fill bucket with round marbles the stick will slip thru the marbles all the way to the bottom of the bucket, same exact thing with round sand !

I’ve never tried to spray lime plaster, but I love the idea of being able to save time and likely getting a really strong bond. The limitations seem to be having the proper equipment and skilled troweling labor. Spraying would go so fast that you would need someone constantly mixing batches of lime so that you don’t get cold joints having to stop and mix more plaster ever tile you run out. Mixing with a professional mortar mixer would be essential.

If the cedar is still good, keep it the way it is. Otherwise, you’ll need to add a vapor barrier like tyvek or tar paper, Rainscreen mesh or wood strips, lath and then plaster. Cedar siding is pretty great too.

I’d have to see the design and circumstances, but probably not.

I wish I had an opinion on this, but I don’t have enough experience with colors to help. I usually keep it natural.

​@@HeirloomBuildersI guess it's going to have to be a live & learn test trial experiment thing, thanks anyway !

Those are good tips! Thanks for sharing. I don’t know what grade of sand, it’s fairly coarse mortar sand. I really do like the idea of adding some color, maybe even dark blue.

Yes it will be just as heavy

@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you!!

@@kookia213 the lime putty is created by mixing powdered type S lime putty and water. You have to mix lime putty with sand to give it strength and prevent it from shrinking and cracking.

We heat with wood and can leave for a couple days when it’s below freezing and come back to a house that is still 60 deg F. The thermal mass really holds the temps. Same in the summer. All the thermal mass of the plaster holds the average temp while the hot summer sun is baking near 100 Deg F outside and the house only hits the low 80’s for about an hour in the early evening before the sun goes down and the cooling starts happening again.

@@HeirloomBuilders OK thanks for your reply. How many cords of wood do you use in the winter?

@@jasonbourne1596 we use 1.5-2 cords of wood per year

@@HeirloomBuilders Thanks

I think so, but I would add some cement in there to help it bind to the concrete block wall or add a bonding agent to make sure

Seems fine to me, I would use commons of a textured brick if you can find them for better adhesion.

@@HeirloomBuilders yeah, we have 'scratched' commons too.

@@HeirloomBuilders oh and on cost, was that per coat? I saw you had your scratch coat on, so can I assume x 2? (regardless of AUD prices, seems way cheaper than paying renderer for modern day rendering job. And let's face it, it suits the house so much better and is healthier, nice energy gains etc. I'm building a mod barn style with 3 pavilions. A lime plastering finish will look divine - AND - not be like every other ' the norm' look modern render along the road!!!

@@MM-li8nk that cost is for three coats

@@HeirloomBuilders even better!

Yes, with tar paper, a Rainscreen mesh and fiberglass/metal lath as your prep layers.

Paul clay doesn't have to granular texture that the sharp edges of masonry sand has and locking into each other and clay would definitely dry hard but be a soft easy break & flake out. Rough edge sand is the way to go !

Adam’s products stocks hydrated lime. The are an old castle company that deals in concrete block and masonry products

You can also make your own lime putty by mix NHL lime powder into a paste and let it sit wet in a barrel for a few weeks (the longer the better), THEN using the 1/3 recipe used here ! Search making lime putty !

I would not apply paint to the exterior. It is very weather resistant all by itself

You could limewash it, if you want a color change or a different finish.

​@@andrewsackville-west1609Andrew couldn't you mix pigment to desired color into the lime putty when mixing with sand almost like using cement pigments ?

It’s best to pre drill a pilot hole to prevent cracking

It’s the original lime plaster with clay render beneath that was still strong and was not removed during the repair process

You can use clay, but it won’t hold up to rain very well

@@HeirloomBuilders clay is water soluble, lime after it has been hardened by exposure to CO2 becomes more like stone.

Depends on how wet the sand is. I would say start with a 1/2 part water and add more until you get somewhere between a thick pancake batter consistency and toothpaste

Yes, but you’ll need 2 weather resistive membranes and a rain screen and lath under the plaster

Not in my area. We have to go to a masonry supply store.

@@HeirloomBuilders thanks! i'm in Hickory and i can't seem to find any, suggestions for supply stores?

Jake I've seen NHL powdered lime bags at my local HD here in CO. Now I'm not sure if it was extra leftovers from a special order but maybe hit up the contractors desk and see if they order it up for you ! Now that would consist of you having to whip up your own lime putty, plenty of tutorials for making lime putty, THEN mixing your own putty into a plaster with sand !

Think air tight, but vapor permeable. Moisture can migrate through materials that air cannot.

@@HeirloomBuilders Aww I get it now for some reason I thought air is both cases. Although I didn't know there was materials that would let water through but not air I thought you need some kind of valve or something. Thank you for responding and have a wonderful day.

@@HeirloomBuilders Is there any videos of yours that you would recommend for building a homestead in Alaska? I'm looking to have greenhouses and raised chickens so I can be self-sufficient and off-grid but I'm just getting into this and would love some guidance.

@@zeroexea kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZudqLWQx7C2l2w.html

Who gives a shit?

You’re right. I wish I could edit that. Good eye

Probably so. I would recommend a mix of lime with some Portland cement or a binding agent to help the binding to existing mortar

Yes

@@HeirloomBuilders After doing EXTENSIVE research, it's NOT the same. Type S is prohibited for restoration in UK because it's too hard, damages stones and brick and causes WET MOLDY buildings. Highly processed too.

Can you use type N lime, not as ridge as type S !

We scraped it off until we got down to the slip coat of clay that was directly applied to the bale walls.

@@HeirloomBuilders Thanks! I would be glad to know how your new lime exteriors hold up over time, any issues delaminating from the clay slit coat you mention... hope not, those walls are stunning.

Hahahah😂

Good to know.

More than the CO² produced when making cement ?

@@eugeniotapia6765 Not as far as I know, but the difference isn't vast. Cement is just hydraulic forms of lime that is burned at a higher temperature and has a small amount of gypsum added to it. It has some advantages over lime mortars/cements/renders and some disadvantages. It depends on the situation and what you need. But the idea that lime is an eco friendly building option simply doesn't make sense. It's better than cement but still needs a lot of CO2 to produce, far more than it will reabsorb.

In my experience, lime is cheaper than other prefabricated siding materials.

Cubic yard! 27 cubic feet

Okay... Glad to see this comment. I was thinking "no way is a cubic foot enough pretty for 3 yards of sand!" Obviously, it's a yard not a foot 😂.

Tomas you can make your own lime putty (which I prefer) as opposed to buying premade putty. I can't give you a specific ratio w/L recipe but carefully make it/mix it powdered NHL with water in a 55gal. barrel until it's a tooth paste consistency and let paste set wet in barrel for at least three weeks. Keep water over the top of the paste and don't let it exposed to air as it will return to rock hard sandstone again ! THEN that is the putty mix you'd use with the 1to3 sand for the plaster. Basically you have to mix up two diff batches, one lime powder into putty THEN putty and sand into plaster ! It's like making pancake batter for the first time, just gotta play with the water/powder ratio till you get it rite (don't want it as thin as pancake batter tho)!

Hahaha