I just finished assembling one myself. I just bought the plastic parts, since I already had the cells (with red Loctite on grubscrews) and the JBD BMS. Take my word for it, you want the cells fully discharged before you try and insert them, the fit is that good. I had already purchased 6 awg silicone wire, it is much easier to work with, and the single biggest thing that I would recommend they change. My JBD gave me no problems charging at 80 amps and since I didn't purchase their BMS, I wasn't aware they had programmed down the limits. I also made my wires longer and had fewer problems with the final assembly. Once assembled, the battery is pretty much "just right" and worth the money. My cells are grade B (although not previously used) and capacity wise I have two at 268AH, and the other 14 are 274AH or above. I am matching them to the limited extent possible, and it is working out nicely. The kit is actually nicer than I expected, I would highly recommend it. I just ordered 3 more, if you are on the fence about the kit, I definitely recommend it.

What a cool little kit!!! And it is dirt cheap! Wow I had no idea about these. Good find

Man if it wasn't for you and Will and David. I wouldn't get to see any of this stuff. I love it

14:10 - as a workaround you could use the classic 2 nut trick to tighten them. You tighten 2 nuts against each other on the stud and they will friction lock against each other. This allows you to use the nuts to tighten the bolt from the top. Then you can remove the nuts afterwards.

Actually- that was a total WIN in my eyes. Genuine capacity, well designed connections & well laid out. Under $300.00/ 100AH with some assembly required seems like a smoking deal as well. FWIW, it seems that the battery profile may fit in a standard RV battery holder (your mileage may vary) and you can buy nice positive & negative bussbars for easier access & fewer mistakes. I really, really like this solution for the 'mebbe' DIYer, David! I'm a perfect candidate for this solution- I have the tools, I have the knowledge, but- I don't want to solve for the variables like; compression, battery box, etc... Really impressed. Thank you very much and I hope I can get you a few bucks using an associate code when I buy them?

A very nice diy alternative. Prevents us from needing to buy a LOT of tools for the job as well. Saves a lot for the diy battery builder.

This looks like a great, affordable, quality DIY battery solution! I think we'll start seeing the market flooded with similar kits in the near future.

You should not have any washers between the ring terminals and the battery post because stainless steel has higher resistance than does the terminal. This is really critical for the higher current terminals because the washer will overheat.

Hi, thank you for the review, it looks like we sent you the wire harness for the v1 kit. We have a different wire harness for the v2 which is a little longer that takes care of the spacer height difference.

A trick to tighten the screws for the terminals: Install 2 nuts. Tighten top nut against bottom nut. Tighten screw with bottom nut. Remove top nut, remove bottom nut.

Nice to see this hands-on. Great vid. But one thing as a noob... Please do tape off your terminals while building your battery. So little effort, so much safety.

I was wondering how long until someone made something like this. This is something I would look into if I was going to buy LiFePO4 batteries.

When tightening using a jaw wrench use a wooden insert to protect the threads

1. At minute 8:00 you could've moved one of the ring terminals to the end battery post, as the busbar going between the two batteries would've read the same voltage either end. 2. If you strip the M6 thread on the battery posts, just drill and thread them to M8. Or use steel coil inserts to repair the M6 thread. Both cheap options, which means the battery is still usable.

Beautiful assembly by Sun Fun Kit. This really amazed me to see a company put together such a DIY Kit like this one. All the customer have to do is to read and follow the instruction manual of the manufacturer on how to install this kit and you are all set to go👏 👍 I do like to assemble project like this which I think in my opinion is really cool built DIY/Portable Solar Powered Generator. Sun Fun Kit please send me one to do another beautiful review of this kit in a different perspective Very nice review and thanks for showing this awesome kit brother.

Oh, I cannot believe you used channel locks on the bolt threads… I’m sure you were gentle, and I noticed you pushed backwards from the jaw grip to limit damage to the threads, but still, a better way to do that would be to put a pair of nuts on the stud, and tighten them together, to create a safe gripping surface.

Thanks, great review! I didn't see a temperature sensor anywhere for low temperature charge cut-off.

For the positive and negative post you can put two nuts on one post at a time, lock them against each other then tighten the bolts. Then break the nuts apart from each other. I know this is an old video, but this tip may come in handy elsewhere.

Hello, very clean kit with a few small issues. Nice work! The problem is that the kit Without cell’s is reasonably priced and is likely a good kit for someone making a tiny or smaller camper or van system. However with cells included are Very Very Very Expensive! IMO I bought EVE 280ah cells for $106 ea (I think up to about $135 ea now) I feel almost all resellers of cells are unreasonably priced at a “kinda usual” in the USA 300% markup! Just for reselling cells that they have inspected? ALL 64 of my EVE cells directly from Basen were packaged and matched perfectly as far as open voltage goes and had zero issues or damage. If you can DIY.. I recommend doing it yourself! Then hopefully resellers will get the message and stop with the nonsense of 300% cell markup! Good video and nice work sir! ✌️PT

Yes we program the default settings for 60 Amps charge and 125 charge, our reasoning behind this is better to have a little wiggle room, but of course it can be over-ridden the by the user. In a future app update we will add this feature as well.

If you strip the posts they can be retapped to the next size up, been there done that. There is a ton of material in the post connections on Eve cells where they enter the battery ( we had one torn apart in a car accident while installed in an RV - Yes, it was handled as hazmat, clean up crews warned but I still saw exactly how thick those posts are, and how long) Having seen the sheer size of material in the aluminum posts, The only reason I can think of why they give us M6 size bolts/post is to keep the cells from being damaged by the force you can put on M8 or larger threaded materials. I mean it's just much too easy to put a lot of torque on a M8-10 bolt before the threads strip. I ultimately feel the small bolt/stud size is a safety feature whereby the threads can strip before the battery is damaged and this may not be true if they used larger sizes..... but tapping those post holes to M8 (or even M10) won't compromise the post material imo . It just means you have to be especially careful not to over torque the new M8 post or bolt because you now have enough purchase to twist that aluminum post structure inside the battery. Eve calls for 8Nm (5.90 ft-lb) on most 280ah products. Check your spec sheet. TL;DR I have tapped these to the next size up after a client stripped the threads out of them. I neither recommend you follow my actions or make any guarantee that what works for me would work for you.

What I’d do different. Always apply the serrated nut against the bus bar. Any ring terminal goes on top of that with another nut(possibly a jam nut).

A 24v kit would be nice, especially with SOK having been back-ordered with theirs for so long.

An updated Lid will be released by Late November, this will accommodate the taller cells without the need for adding a spacer, here is a preview: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m6-ZpZWHxMDMpXk.html

When threading those machine screws through the top of the battery case, as soon you get enough thread out, you put two nuts on the machine screw and tighten them against each other. Then use a wrench to turn the screw to tighten it. You can get a lot of force on studs and bolts that way. Mechanics technique, called "double nutting". Then break the nuts apart and thread them off.

2 nuts on the screws . Lock the nuts together . Place wrench on lower nut . Do not over tighten . Or you can use a piece of leather or plastic with your channel locks .

Another good video. I looked at the site in the description and they are sold out. Kind of the way it works when posting in a youtube video, they always seem to be short of supply. Nice review. I prefer to put a 12v battery together with these type of cells rather than 18650 unless I am wanting very small footprint. All the best, have a great week!

Same BMS and bus bar as ours at Current Connected....Kinda funny!

Don't forget the SOK has a 7 year manufacturer's warranty and a US based repair center.

That is very cool for a beginner like me. Thanks for the video

I put helicoils in all my batteries before i even use them now because i know the threads will strip at the required torque. experience! a helicoil kit from amazon is inexpensive and i always use studs tightened down to the bottom of the threads and the flange nuts

About the output of the BMS - there is a penalty of high amp chargers - it is convenient but you degrade the battery at the expense of fast charging. The lithium particles gets trapped in the anode plate material at greater rate when the charging amperage are higher. The is the problem with all types of chemically based batteries. The lower the charge, the less heat and stress on the plates or materials. Heat (while charging) also degrades the battery.

So what does it cost in total for everything you have there and are they grade A..... great video!

U can solder the terminal if stripped

Put the cables on the lid first

The pricing is very confusing from this video. Going to to their website presents many options and the complete battery kit with all suggested options is expensive.

Man, I wish I knew about this company a few months ago. Making a 24V one out of a large milk create.

Finally. Some ones (company) getting it !

The charge limit is for the BMS not for the battery. JBD 150A wont accept charge over 50% of its capacity.

You said that if you strip out the threads out of the aluminum terminals the cell would be ruined because there's no way to fix it... Actually there is, either rethread to a bigger thread or just heli coil it.

1. Will the cells eventually bulge and put stress on connectors? 2. Regarding the vent, is there gas discharge involved, or another purpose? 3. What gear is needed for top balancing? 4. So total kit out the door with cells is over $1061 if I heard correct... how do you get $295/kWh? $1061/(12V × 280Ah) = .316 ... I'm likely miscalculating. It also seems more expensive than some other prebuilt batteries on Amazon... Are the cells and other hardware higher quality? THANK YOU SO SO VERY MUCH for all that you do!

Excellent review as always - interesting, although I’m not sure about the plastic case for mobile use. Would have liked to see padding all the way around.

This kid looks very good but when I went to Sun fun kits and looked at it to get all the parts appeared to cost over $1,000? If that is incorrect I would be happy to purchase one but I could not find 100ah battery kit for the price you were quoting. Please let me know where you got it. Thanks

Great looking case. I would love to see an 8S 24V version of this case.

Hi, great video. This is a great DIY Kit. BTW any update on the CERRNSS battery, the review I had requested earlier? Have your received the battery?

Nice kit 👍 when I built my battery if I had know about this kit I definitely would have bought the kit rather then buying all components separately

The cells are butted together. I would think that they should have a thin plastic spacer between the cells.

Hey man, love your channel. You inspired me to get into making battery packs. I bought some supplies from battery hookup but I am concerned about safety. Could you do a video on how you store your batteries, what safety measures you take, and what not to do? Thank you

I watched this whole video thinking I could purchase this battery for $300 and at the end ...

For future reference on thread engagement, the first 3 threads take up 75% of the load.

Very interesting, this is a valuable tutorial, I'm new to this type of battery, and. building this kit. So THANKS for the schooling 😃😃

I love this idea and would buy one in a heartbeat. Unfortunately I need something smaller just to power my kayak, maybe 100/120ah. I didn’t see anything that small on their website.

Hey those buse bars should've been mounted under the Plastic Cap Plate. Instructions are wrong and this is a Safety Issue. If you take another look at what I've said, you'll agree with me. The Buse Bars under Plastic Cap Plate helps prevent Shorts. Shouldn't be any Small Wires under the Large Power Cables. This will cause the Power Cables to become loose and possible damage to the Battery and could cause a Short and may cause Injury to yourself or someone else. You should wrap all open Wire ends with Electrical Tape so that Shorts would be prevented. Every turn of Tape around Wire ends will give a 100 Volt Safety. When ready to attach Wire ends just unwrap that end and connect. You are right about Short Wires. If a power Wire / Cable has a sharp bend and the Battery is Discharging at High Amps then the bend in Cable or Wire could act like a Resister and cause the Cable or Wire to over Heat and a possible Burn through. Wires and or Cables should have a Soft Bend to help prevent this from happening. Thanks for sharing and the upload Mate. It's appreciated by me.

They need to add a set screw Allen key placement at the end of them positive and negative bolts so you can thigh them from the top instead of sticking a Allen key into the box. Just my opinion 🤷‍♂️

The JBD 150A BMS can only take 75A Charge Max, not unusual for MOSFET based BMS'. You should have screwed down the "Grub Screw/studs" to Bottom, then BACK OFF by 1 full Turn and HOLD with the Allen Key while tightening the nut. This is done to prevent putting pressure on the bottom of the tap hole. FYI default thread depth for safety on EVE LFP Cell Terminals in 6mm MAX. Mfg Spec. Stripped Threads CAN be repaired with M6 Helicoil Thread Inserts. Worst Case Scenario they can be retapped with a proper Tap & Die Kit, but must NEVER EVER exceed 6mm hole depth. The Balancer & BMS Harness Wires. Personal Point. Both Wires (per cell) should have been put into ONE Ring Terminal as opposed to two... TIP-1: Even simple MASKING TAPE on the Hot Terminal or wire lead can save your keister from an accidental oopsie ! Only takes a second to change a Good Day to a Bad Day. Tip-2: These cases are ABS and Very Durable & chemical resistant. To Waterproof (water resistance) a thin bead of Silicone along the seams prior to final tightening of the pieces can resolve that... ** IF concerned about making a mess, using Green Painters Masking Tape, tape off around the "seams", once sealed & before silicone has set, pull the tape off at Right Angles and you will have a clean finish.

I might be reading this wrong but the cells are extra and not included in the price. When I calculated the cells into the kit it came out to $1225.00. Am I missing something?

Yeah i thought about doing these for my car audio system but way too high for what i need it for so I'm going with yinlong cells.

Very nice kit. But fully build battery prices are dropping to the same as buying a kit and battery.

I know a really good mechanics trick to get those bolts through the cover from underneath

Loved your video. Greetings from Holland

The add on balancer is one of those active balancers. Why do you and sunfun call it a passive/resistance balancer?

Great video, been waiting for a solit diy kit to come to market. Thanks for taking the time to show us. ??? Any idea if they approve of series wiring to 48 volts. These would be a great upgrade to my battleborns - with 3x capacity and servicable cells and componants. Looks like I could fit 60 kwh where i currantly store 20 kwh if I am guaging the size of that case accurately. Keep up the great work, will check out your link to the kits.

For me, the design of the kit has a very big negative: it appears impossible to disassemble the battery. The insertion of the cells is a one-way-trip. One of the positives for building any kit is that the builder can maintain and/or modify what they built. I hope they do better in future kits.

That's a really nice kit

Nice build and review. You caused SFK to sell out 😨

Adjustable Electric Fan Thermostat Switch Radiator Temperature Control Probe Kit..probably an excellent option for bms without low temperature sensors?

Would it make more sense to put the busbars on before the orange cap? Otherwise there is no protection from shorting.

Great Video.

BTW, those are bolts, not screws. Screw are tapered, bolts aren't.

Could you have crimped both balance leads to just 1 ring terminal each to give you less space for the screw?

Why the ballancer? That bms is supposed to do that and if it does it would do a much better job that that little one.

Ok so dumb question , I'm afraid , Why have we moved from measuring the out put in Amp hours vs the olxd Watt hours ?

I wish the cells were in stock..

wonder if this battery can jump start a car or truck. also you should have tried max amp draw to really test the bms.

Did I miss the temperature sensor installation? Or is it missing low temperature charging cutoff?

A good video, i didn't know that was so complicated... and so expensive; not entirely interested yet; we really need a different and better battery technology; my four "solar" 160Ah lead acids cost 150 each, they are now 4 years old,on my 1.5Kw solar system,6 panels, and they still work perfectly; the key is to have them oversized for the needs and they may last a decade.

you will have much more success with the studs if you use jamb nuts to tighten. but good video

3-D printed case. How stable is it. I have not worked much with 3-D plastics. I understand the instructions say to connect the cables the way you did, but could you connect pig-tails to the lid first, then connect to battery/BMS? I bet they are still too short. Thanks for sharing.

Great idea and good kit - but, "Configuration Price" at the website - with Eve cells, is $1,310 US - so a bit of a bait-and-switch really. If you want to sell DIY battery kits, you also want to go to some effort to explain: 1) How to get 4x280 Eve cells for less than $800 2) What "Configuration Price" means and why is it $300 more than "Regular Price" (this part of the checkout is very off-putting; I highly recommend changing this at the web page) The compression solution here is "great" (if, assuming that, the plastic tub is strong enough to hold it as cells naturally swell over years). I didn't call it a "great" kit because: 1) of the wiring issues you noted, 2) both terminals are both at the same end (I just don't like that), and 3) the fixed bridge bars don't have flex as other double-layer "middle-bend" bars do, so they are fixed as the cells swell 4) I didn't see a low-temperature cutoff Anyone going to KZfaq knows how to DIY a battery, and how to get recommended parts too by now, so this kit has to make it painless and inexpensive to prefer their solution. It is worth paying more for a kit and vendor that: 1) screens cells to ensure they are "perfect" - as they should be (not swollen, used, or too old as you commonly find on Alibaba) 2) ships a great, low-cost, BMS, Bluetooth, and Charger - which this does... 3) has freezing temperature cutoff BMS (I didn't notice a freezing temperature cutoff here on the BMS)

You can retap the threads, i.e. not ruined

not sure these Sun Fun Kits are still worth buying, considering the price drops in lithium batteries. Local to me, tho.

I can't believe they put together such a wonderful kit, that lacks low temp charging protection.

What Instrument did you use for Capacity checking?

Nice setup. Any issues with connecting 4 in series to make a 48V system?

did not see if the bms had low temp and hi temp cutoff?

I'd like to know where to get a battery box similar to the one you used. SunFun does not show them as a separate item to purchase.

I like this one and if you had your own printer it would be easy to make too bad the bms doesn't have active balance.

I would love to do build my own battery but I fail to see the cost saving over buying a competitors drop in ready battery! I can buy an Enjoybot 12 volt /300AH for $999.98. It is out of stock but so are the Eve cells used to build the Sunfun kit! What a dilemma!!

Shouldnt there be a small gap between the batteries ? To compensate for expantion which could lead to friction causing abration between the cells.

I love the thought that has gone into this kit but the freight to Australia is killer. A shame... I'd have liked to buy a few kits.

Sana all may free send hahaha

Does that BMS have low temp cutoff? Frustrating that there are so many BMS out there that don't have it so you always have to ask🙄

newbie here, but the kit and cell cost more than already build battery, am I missing something?

Iv re tapped alot of licence plate holes , could you not re tap the battery post if stripped? Not sure cuz its aluminium..

I did not see any mention of temperature cutout. Is there a place on the BMS to plug in a temp sensor?

You tested these wrongly as well, it is 3601 / 12.8 = 281.32 AH / cell not as bad as the 18650 but again not 286AH. Why do you keep looking at amps going in as the capacity? Ask an electrical engineer if you don't believe this is how capacity is calculated: Watt-hours / nominal voltage.

Are you guys kidding me, the kits $195 that’s not including cables or Bms and then the batteries are $995? If they even have them ! Come on. You guys get things free but we all can’t pay battleborn prices! I’ll stick with battery hookup thankyou

What about low temp cut off?

wouldnt it be neater if busbars go under the orange top?

Yes Akb LiFePo4 🔋 ⚡ 👍