@17:15, I believe you are referring to the Gemming. Also; that thing you were holding is a spur. :)

Simply to say how much and how sincerely I appreciate the craftsmanship you present to those of us who are not cobblers but admirers of your craft. Would find it easier to understand you if we could see your face - i.e. if you could manage to talk to the camera. But watching your explanations of the manual process is both highly informative and enjoyable. Since acquiring my first pair of western boots long ago at the age of 5 when my parents visited Neiman Marcus in Dallas, I have learned to respect the quality of Lucchese boots and other manufacturers, too. Please, keep the stream of helpful and informative videos rolling to the enlightenment of those of us who need to learn more about the care and maintenance of some of our most precious possessions.

Another Very Good Job! Enjoy watching your work. 👍

Thank for this great video. Cam Saphir dyes be used on lizard skin? I cleaned my Tony Lamas with some reptile cleaner and it took off some of the dye. I was hoping to re dye the boots. Thank you sir.

My dad works at Lucchese he probably cut those skins and the uppers for the boots. They have what they call a Diego inlay which is a design on top of the vamp. I have seen a square toe pair here in El Paso, TX at the factory outlet store for $499.99 plus tax.

Fantastic job.

YOU ARE SO WRONG ABOUT THOSE SPURS.SPURS DONT NEED TO BE SHARP TO WORK ON A HORSE.ITS THE JABBING OF THE SPURS ALONG WITH THE STRENGTH OF THE RIDERS LEGS THAT GETS THE HORSE MOVING.IF THE SPURS WERE SHARP THEY WOULD CUT HOLES IN THE HORSES SIDE..

What a nice pair of boots, and of course hats off to your skills sir. I'm not a cobbler or anything related but those videos of yours sure are interesting , don't apologize for "wasting" our time, 30 somethings minutes fly by and we learn some stuff, like you said in one of your prev vids about your son maybe not being a cobbler himself in the future but I agree that the more that one knows the better, and at least I'm learning stuff for how to care for my shoes/ boots and or if someday I end needing the help of a professional they don't try to take advantage of me . So anyway thank you again keep it up PS. You should do a collab with the youtuber Jeremiah Craig , he is also a boots enthusiast

Great work, l enjoyed your video.👍

YOU ARE A GOOD SHOE MAKER BUT I THINK YOU SLEPT THROUGH SPUR CLASS.YOU MIGHT HAVE TO RETAKE THAT CLASS..

Thank you for posting interesting content. I always click on your videos when I see new content. I admire your straightforward and unpretentious style. It is refreshing to see a cobbler post videos without obvious and distasteful marketing of oneself. Good work speaks for itself and that's the best form of advertising. I have a few questions about re-soling and re-welting and hope you can clarify when you can find spare time. (1) When stitching a new sole on, how do you hit the same holes? (2) Some manufacturers (like Allen Edmonds) use a lower stitch density when stitching the sole to the welt. When re-soling a shoe, can the stitch density be increased so that it resembles a higher quality shoe (like Edward Green)? (3) If a shoe did not originally feature fudging on the welt, can fudging be added during a resole? (4) Roughly how many times can you resole a shoe before requiring a new welt? (5) As I mentioned above, there's a difference in stitch density between manufacturers when stitching the sole to the welt. Between manufacturers, is there also a big difference in stitch density when they attach the welt to the upper? If so, can this be increased when attaching a new welt by hand? (6) When manufacturers resole their own shoes, they generally attach a new welt by machine as part of the service. Because they are punching new holes to the upper/rib/gemming, there's a limit to how many times a new welt can be attached (I believe that I read between 3-5 times). If you only ever re-attach a new welt (when necessary) by hand, is there a limit to how many times a new welt can be attached? (7) Do you have experience re-soling Norwegian machine welted shoes from Paraboot? During a resole, can the Norwegian machine welt be replaced to a standard welt? If so, I imagine it would have to be a split reverse (Stormwelt) to cover the holes in the upper made when the Norwegian welt was stitched on by machine. Can you please share your thoughts on this? Wow, I didn't mean for this post to be so long. Sorry! Thank you again for the interesting content.

IN THE OLD DAYS TO MAKE A LONG LASTING SOLE THE SHOE MAKER WOULD WET THE LEATHER THEN PUT IT ON AN ANVEL THEN TAKE A SMOOTH FACE HAMMER AND BEAT THE LEATHER TILL IT BECAME THIN THEN PUT IT TO DRY.THEN USE IT TO MAKE THE SOLE.THAT LEATHER SOLE WOULD LAST ALMOST FOREVER..

I am suprised that they use cork in their boot.I thought they they were an all leather boot.0

Burnish you mean? Not barnish ...

salut , cordonnier moi même, en France on appel ça un mûr de première de montage !!! normalement taillé dans la première elle même mais remplacé par l'industrie par de mûr en symthétique pour gagner du temps et donc de l'argent !!!!! merci pour tes vidéos !! force et respect

Dancing with spurs! That can be a bit dangerous to tho use around you😎

Gemming