I can tell you most of the Texas manufacturers (Load Trail, PJ, Maxxd, Lamar, Ironbull, Big Tex, etc) use a 516 scissor on 12/14/16' dumps, 14K GVW. Most also use a 3200psi hydraulic pump. Assuming they all have the same hinge point/overhang, they will lift about 7.9ton.

One of the best mods for a heavily used dump trailer, is to wire in a 0 gauge welding cable to the dump battery. This way, your alternator can easily replenish lost power during the drive. The stock 10 gauge 7-way plug barely reaches a few amps, while a 0 gauge will supply as much as the battery / alternator can take.

@@royj8549 I have added a 20 watt solar panel to it. I dont use it super often. But that gets me 4-5 dumps during the day with battery to spare.

We appreciate your business! Keep up the good work.

Shawn, generally trailer sway is caused by too little tongue weight, or zero tongue weight caused by loading the trailer too far to the rear. In my example this was definitely not the case. To load any dump trailer near capacity you almost have to have a fairly balanced load as you need to cover the majority of the trailer or have a REALLY dense material concentrated fully to the rear. Most guys on a payloader will be smart enough to not let this happen.

Best Choice Trailers I don't know man,I see a lot of crazy things out in the field.

Shawn - Not going to say a guy couldn't do it, but he'd have to work pretty hard to get zero tongue weight as a dump trailer is going to be tongue heavy to start with by its very nature. You've got a hoist at the front of the axle area, and a toolbox/battery/pump/tarp, etc at the very front, making it one of the only trailers that will exceed 10% tongue weight empty often times. You've also got the axles fairly far back to ensure ground clearance, and very little wind resistance relative to a enclosed cargo trailer. A car hauler tilt or deckover tilt on the other hand, with the axles closer to the midpoint (along with an enclosed trailer due to a heavy ramp at the rear and wind resistance), can fairly easily be improperly loaded and tow like crap.

Your setup, while it sounds great, is unnecessary. The pump requires about 150-200A, but the coil to allow fluid to drain into the reservoir is under 10A, therefore there is a wide range of power output where you can lower the bed without a full charge. The unit will basically operate as a gravity down. Only downside is the reservoir isn't big enough to hold the extra oil, so some will drain into toolbox.

English wasn't my strong suit in school, but apparently it can be used. Regardless, I'll probably continue using it! Per Webster: Is irregardless a word? Irregardless was popularized in dialectal American speech in the early 20th century. Its increasingly widespread spoken use called it to the attention of usage commentators as early as 1927. The most frequently repeated remark about it is that "there is no such word." There is such a word, however. It is still used primarily in speech, although it can be found from time to time in edited prose. Its reputation has not risen over the years, and it is still a long way from general acceptance. Use regardless instead.

Ha! That's funny.

@@BestChoiceTrailers ... Irrespective is the word you are looking for.

Dan, One thing I've learned over the years is that there are a lot of variables that go into the "which hoist is best" conversation. The quick answer would be telescopic, but dual ram remains the most common dual to the fact that it works just fine, and is more cost effective. Lift capacity is a function of the length of trailer (leverage), overhang at the rear hinge (12"/18"/24", depending on length and manufacture), hoist size and ram length, hydraulic pressure from pump, type of hoist, etc. Dual ram (about 40% efficient, typically monuts at thej midpoint of the fender) is least effective due to mounting position as there is a lot of wasted energy in redirecting the load. A scissor (about 60% efficient, mounts at the front side of the fender) is still wastes energy redirecting the load, but gains a mechanical advantage from the scissor mechanism enabling it to use a shorter/fatter cylinder that takes less volume/cycle time. The telescopic is like a 3-speed bicycle (rather than single speed on dual or scissor) that is also pointed the right direction (no redirecting the load), making it as close to 100% efficient. It also gains a bit of efficiency as they are power up/gravity down, so there is no cycle time (just opening the solenoid) on the downward stroke. Some manufacturers (I won't name names) only put enough pressure behind each hoist type that it will lift the legal payload, which gives little benefit to the guy looking to buy a better hoist to have a better chance at lifting an overloaded trailer. Couldn't tell you as I've looked closely at PJ's, but never used one for comparison purposes. That said, I'm almost certain they use the same 516 scissor, which is very common. Not sure on pivot point and pump pressure, which would be the other 2 main variables, but I believe they would be similar as well to the Load Trail shown here.

My PJ has dumped Right at 8200# time and time again. It’s a 16,000# rated 8,000# axles on a Gooseneck unit.

Pj I looked at had a 1/2 gap between the box and gate so will probably lose part of your load going from the quarry to the driveway. I walked away as don't want a leaking load ticked plus won't pass dot inspection .

I hauled 8 tons which is 16,000lbs in my 14 ft 14000lbs pj. It dumped faster than this load trail did. I wish I would of bought a load trailer instead of my pj through. Might as well wipe your ass with the pj warranty papers because they wont fix shit that breaks.

@@BestChoiceTrailers ... Can't wait for the 'that said' trend to end. Nice trailers though.

on bumper pulls you should transfer 12-15% loaded. Keeps it from swaying with a short trailer... My gooseneck version of the trailer transfers about 20% to the bed of my truck. means I can haul more and stay legal.

Own the same trailer, seems like he needs the load back a little. Doesn’t look bad when I’m loaded

Yes, a telescopic hoist is a great way to go. Most in the industry don't offer them as dual ram generally does a "good enough" job doing everything a larger 7' wide dump trailer is designed to do at a slightly lower price point. For those that do offer a tele, I tend to stock some because as you mention, they work extremely well. In your scenario you were actually "only" about 2000 over due to tongue weight of about 15% or 1500#, which would scale toward's the truck's GVW. Assuming it's a 108" stroke, you probably have a 10 ton cylinder.

looking at a 20wd dimond c. dealers in my area is less than customer friendly. would like to get a complete price list to make a informed decision...

Scissor lift 6 inch?

@@michaelibarra2947 6 ton

Troy, We have a tongue scale, but I didn't think to break it out for this. We will be getting our first shipment in soon of ball mounts that have a built in tongue scale, so maybe that'll be something for the future. Tongue weight tends to average about 15%, or 2000# on this trailer. Tongue heavy tends to be about 18%, but on a dump those numbers can go higher, as it's a bit easier to get tongue heavy than loading a piece of equipment.

I'd contact a trailer repair place. seems like you have a hydraulic issue

I'm not sure why you would need to do that. My tractor doesn't make full cycles, It's just fluid movement between 2 spaces.

Don't fully understand your question, but I believe your asking how did we get the gravel to move? If so, a rake and about 10 minutes.

He didn't go all the way up

The reason their is oil (in this instance) is simply from installing the inline pressure gauge. Typically however if there is oil in a dump trailer toolbox, it's because the battery is dead. If the battery doesn't have the power to turn the motor, if will simply open the coil, bed weight and gravity take care of bringing it down, and the fluid from the line fills the reservoir, then overflows out the overflow cap. As it's power up/power down, the reservoir is not designed to hold the extra fluid when the battery dies, and therefore overflows. After charging the battery sufficiently, power the bed up and have a quart of (usually ISO 32 non foaming) hyd fluid handy and you'll run out of fluid in the reservoir partway up and need to fill it up. For what it's worth, an overflow cap is self venting.

@@BestChoiceTrailers I always keep my trailer plugged in when not in use so the battery is on the built in trickle charger. My battery was fully charged when I was lowering my fully loaded trailer with the control & it overflowed into toolbox. Yes, the cap is self venting but perhaps its not sufficient venting capacity. Like leaving the cap loose on a soda pop bottle vs no cap at all. I will definitely keep a litre of ISO 32 non foaming hyd fluid handy just in case.

On a load that that once you hit about 35 degrees the "magic" stops working and the load starts dumping!

Not a single piece of gravel shifted? I don’t understand. I feel like this video is a fake but I have no idea why anyone would do that?

It’s already there at 1:53

Its probably there from hooking up the pressure gauge. I doubt there is a quick connect there for this.

4 tons is 8,000 pounds. If I understand your question you’re asking how much weight on the TONGUE not the trailer right? 10% of that 8k is 800 pounds of tongue weight as an example

Yes, we have quite a few. Here's a link to the in stock 7' wide Sure Trac dumps currently available. Most inventory has pictures/prices/specs/video's, etc. www.bestchoicetrailers.com/all-inventory/dump-trailers/7-wide/all-7-wide-dumps?manufacturer=sure-trac

Nor would I recommend anyone max out a trailer, this was for demonstration purposes.

No, it cannot. Depending on your particular truck, I think the best case scenario on an F150 is 1900lb payload and 11900lb tow capacity. Regular cab, 4x2, big EcoBoost motor, max payload pkg, heavy duty towing pkg.

Yes, for a half ton that would be a load. Generally I'd recommend a 3/4 ton. They are usually 7000# empty, have a GVW of 9000-10000# depending on configuration, gas/diesel, etc. Usually they have sufficient payload/axle rating. On a half ton I'd say a 6x12' 10K or a 7x12 10 or 12K would be ideal. Typically they weigh about 5400# empty and have a 7100 or so GVW, so you have about 1400# of tongue weight available, ideal for a 10K GVW trailer at max load, or a 7x12 12K at partial capacity or a lighter load. Here's a link to our in stock 12' trailers: www.bestchoicetrailers.com/all-inventory/dump-trailers/all-dump-trailers?&length_min=12&length_max=13

Nowadays most stuff coming out of Texas is going to be 8" I-beam. It's been a bit of a monkey see/monkey do as slowly but surely they all seem to trend that way and put their own little spin of it. Here's our in stock 7x14' dump trailers: www.bestchoicetrailers.com/all-inventory/dump-trailers/7-wide/14-dump

With a 2' sidewall height, a 7x14 box would net about 7.25 yards (2'x7'x14' = 196/27 = 7.25)

7.25 yds of 1.5" rock is 17,450lbs + the weight of the trailer = 21,000lbs on 2-7000# axles??? amazing!!!! and you can pull it with a 1/2 ton as well??

@@daviddean7377 you can easily tell its only 66-75% full

Both applications are widely used and work just fine. Due to the extended stroke of the scissor, it gets more leverage and is slightly more efficient (about 40% efficiency of a dual ram vs. 60% on a scissor). A Telescopic mounted vertical at the front is by far and away the most efficient as it overcomes both leverage, but also doesn't need to redirect force (dual ram and scissors both waste a ton of energy starting the load as they are mounted horizontal needing to get vertical).

From a technical standpoint, it depends on the efficiency of the hoist, the leverage, the group size, whether a customer has a working charge line, weight, etc. That said, I've experienced your pain. An accessory line, or auxiliary wire harness should cure your issues. Keeper makes a relatively inexpensive 6ga - google "Keeper KTA14128", or get a 2ga for a super duty application.

Best Choice thanks for the link about the Keeper KTA14128. Thats just what I need. I own a Load Trail DT14 in the 12 foot model. I wanted the additional payload limit with the shorter bed. It is legal to haul more versus the 14 footer or up due to the lower trailer weight.

@@johnbearden4462 No problem, appreciate your business.

If it's plugged into the truck it should be charging

Also never let a low battery set for very long, it ruins it's capability of taking a full charge.

Sylvia - Definitely not defending Kaufman (if the shoe fits them, I suppose they should wear it), but from my testing, being tongue heavy can easily decrease lift by a ton or more, and more on a longer trailer. Also, a 14000# dump (I don't care if they call it a 15, it's a 14, 2-7K axles = 14K), less empty weight of about 4000# = 10000#. You will pick up another 1500# or so of tongue weight, but yes, it should lift more than about 6 ton or so. Many other factors can also come in play - hinge point, cylinder stroke, pump pressure used (some set it back, "normal" is 3200 psi). Every 400psi from 3200psi equates to approx. 1 ton of lift in my experience.

Thank you. Real world explanation with real world numbers! Wish others would do this.

Travis, I don't proclaim to be a hydraulics expert, but one might ask, if power up/down is such a bad idea, why does the average manufacturer spend the extra money on an extra coil/fittings/hoses, etc. Both power and gravity have there own benefits, but certainly more see the benefit in having it than not. Power down you can have a bit smaller reservoir as you're simply moving fluid from the one side to the other, so the lines/cylinder help aide the reservoir. Besides using a minimal amount of power on the way down, the only real downside is if the battery dies, the bed will come down, but it will gravity down and overflow fluid into the toolbox since the pump isn't running. On the gravity setup, fluid is only ever on one side of the cylinder. My previous understanding from talking to a hydraulics expert, the benefit of having fluid to both sides outweighs the negatives of a power system both ways.

I use to have a gravity down trailer, and if I put it up too high, it would only come down if I climbed up top and jumped up and down. I doubt this is the design, and my old trailer probably had a hydraulic issue. But a power down would be very advantageous!

PJ offers a gravity down option on their remotes

Why offer it as an option? I'm trying to figure out why gravity down is not more common. My bri mar is gravity down. Many times i've dumped it to have the battery die...thank God I didn't have the power down option. I've seen a buddy get screwed and have the bed stuck up cause the battery died on his power down option. I don't see how power down is better. It drains the battery. And David Salembier, if your trailer gets stuck when raised, you got something binding or bent. A dump truck dumps over 60 degrees and they don't get stuck when raised.

I guess some dealers don't see the importance of gravity down?

Haha made me cringe as well lol.

You are still mis-reading it. I've copied the wording below directly from your link. It's a 14K trailer. You need a CDL starting at 26K+ GCWR. If your truck is less than 12K GVW (older duallies pre 007 are about 11400-11600, newer 1-ton single wheel short bed's and some long beds are under 12, all 3/4 ton gas and diesel are under 10K - all would be suitable non-CDL tow vehicles. 26000-14000# trailer GVW trailer less any tow vehicle under 12000# GVW would be a suitable NON-CDL tow vehicle. Problem with trucks are the GVW's keep climbing, so the trucks you can pull it with are changing. It used to be that you could pretty much pull any 14k trailer with any dually or less GVW vehicle and be non-CDL, but now it's more like any single wheel truck only (no dually and 14K trailer). Oddly enough, pretty much all trailer manufacturers have dropped building 12K trailers, which is exactly what you need for modern 1-tons. They've done this because there is virtually no cost difference in building a 12 or 14K trailer, and it used to be everyone wanted a 14K as you could max out potential capacity and still be non-CDL. I'm guessing you'll see a trending back to building 12K trailers as most don't use 14K trailers to their full capacity (except maybe dump trailers). Consider, a 14K equipment trailer provides 14K - 3K empty = 11K, plus about 15%, or 2K tongue weight - roughly 13K. Most on that unit never get above 8-10K anyway. "Class A: Class A driver's licenses will be issued to persons 18 years of age or older. A Class A license will be required to operate any combination of vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating of 26,001 pounds or more, provided the gross vehicle weight rating of the vehicle being towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds.

No shit Sherlock. It’s a demonstration. I guess u didn’t catch the disclosure he gave in the beginning since it didn’t have enough pictures for u to understand.

@@catztruck929 Arnt you just a friendly asshole. I bet you make people happy

I have the Goose Neck version of that trailer by performance, the GVW is 14,000 lbs and I have a 2015 Chevy 2500HD with 6 liter gas engine with a 9500 GVW, I routinely haul between 4 and 5 yards of sand or gravel, and I don't need a CDL. If you get a larger dump trailer and put it behind a new Ford F-350 or Chevy 3500 which have 12,500 GVW,s you're getting into CDL territory. The exception to that is RV,s and farmers, My father runs a F350 diesel with 32 foot cattle trailer, the combination is 32,000 lbs, but he has farm tags so the Troopers don't bother him.

www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/383.5 is where you can read the dot. document for yourself ( 1/2 down) it say nothing about Commercial or private it says weight. the police around you may not get you for it, but it is illegal I know and have seen it happen. please check into it. you may not be able to change anything but I'll know where you stand

The 10,000 lbs weight limit only applies when the vehicle towing the load requires a cdl unless you are towing commercially. The combination that is shown in the vid will be under 26,000 lbs so there is no need for a cdl.

Wrong..... any vehicle, That weights 26001lb or tows a trailer of 10000lb or more, commercial or private requires CDL (if you're towing anything,) then it's classed "combination" and means the driver IS REQUIRED CDL class "A" any law officer, DOT man, or CDL handbook will backup what I'm saying......read the link I put in my earlier post. It's federal DOT Law.. the CDL requirement is not a commercial or private thing, it's based on weight. Not, if you're pay for your driving. there is lots of jobs that requires driving but they all don't require CDLs. taxi, pizza del., sales men, rout sales lots of jobs

Jesse cobern- you need to look up the law again. If what you're saying is true, every single farmer and rancher in this country would need a cdl to haul a little bit of hay and their livestock. You will see that a cdl is not required in this case. A cdl is required when the gross weight exceeds 26001 lbs but not until then unless you haul commercially. If you're vehicle is equipped with air brakes, you need a cdl. The class a cdl is needed when hauling commercially and also when the trailer/combination that you are towing exceeds 10,000 lbs if the gcvwr exceeds 26000 lbs. That said, if you're privately hauling and under 26,000 gcvwr, no cdl is required

I suppose that would depend on the size and shape. As many as you can fit in about 6.9 cubic yards or 12000# payload. We're not experienced in this area, so you'll have to seek a second opinion! :-)

A-lot

Ask your mom and if she is so ignorant that she doesn't remember I'm pretty sure your grandma will