+John Skinner Thanks John :)

He is one of the best on the youtube. Always worth a look

+Gregory Hi Gregory. You get it, it is exactly what I mean. It saves money because there is no need for a special one axis head on monopod and works perfect mounted on tripod with medium tele-lens up to 300mm full frame.

+Gregory LOL - I never thought of that, but it makes perfect sense if you have the right ballhead! Thanks!!

+Tanguero5380 Thanks - Makes sense and would work great with the right ball head - I'll have to give it a try myself :)

+Steve Perry There are circumstances where it is useless : If the tripod legs are stretched far (nearly 180° as my Vanguard tripod can do) to shoot laying on the ground. The DSLR's body can't pan far (no more than 30°) because it gets stuck by the tripod legs ...

Thanks. I don't use a ballhead like that because I think the gimbal is smoother and nicer to use. I've tried both and it's really not the same. Plus, the camera isn't centered and potentially not as stable hanging off the side. Oh, and some lens collars aren't as smooth with the weight like that.

@@backcountrygallery Thanks for the reply, Steve. I agree that the Wimberley gimbal head, hits all the right notes. The only reason I mentioned the ball head, is because you included it in your video. I own the Wimberley II and the Acratech GP ball head. Pros and cons, involving both.

I hike with the big setup all the time, more like 2-4 miles (my shoulder is more of a problem than anything else - it does get heavy), and that's with the D4(now D5) and the 600mm + 5 series, so it's doable. Most of the time that hiking is in areas where the animals might pop out at any time - and normally they are pretty flat areas too :) If I were going far back, I'd go lighter if I could, that's for sure. Now I'd take my D500 + 300PF + 1.4TC and not even carry a tripod. However, if I did want the big gear, I'd think about putting it in my regular backpack (the one I use for backpacking, not photography) - especially if most of the animals were back 4-8 miles. Just some thoughts - but yeah, if you can get away with not carrying a huge tripod and get the shots you want, I'd say go for it :)

When the camera is fixed in place on the tripod then yeah, turning off VR/OIS (or changing to panning IS like some lenses have) will give you sharper pictures. But in the technique shown in the video, the camera isn't locked down. It can be freely moved around, so having stabilisation on will be fine. It won't try and fight against the tripod with this technique like it would if it was locked in place.

+Roni Chastain LOL - I was too lazy to bring it up higher! The truth is, most of the time I'm down low on my knees with it in the field. I like to get down to the animal's level. About the only time I'm fully extended is when I'm shooting over grass or doing birds in flight.

The only fluid heads I've ever used were pan types in video and there's NO WAY I'd go with a head that slow (if that's what we're talking about). I honestly can't imagine anything better for wildlife than the Gimbal heads.

+Steve Perry Ok thanks for your advice!

I use the Sigma 150-600 Sports lens and it’s a beast. A good heavy duty gimbal made a huge difference for me.

Really depends on the lens. Newer Nikon (and Canon) lenses work fine on a tripod with VR, but the older lenses warned you not to do it. So, it depends on how Sigma's OS works. Usually the instructions will say one way or another, but I'm not sure if Sigma gives that info. Also, keep in mind you're not locking it down. Worst case, find a subject you don't care too much about and test it both ways :) That said, if you're shooting fast shutter speeds (you mentioned panning BIF), OS shouldn't be needed anyway. Once you're north of 1/1000th it usually doesn't help at all - other than to keep the viewfinder a bit more steady. It might be another problem (like dirty AF sensors), check out my AF Problems video, might be something in there that can help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nat0raR-0peqc5c.html

It should be OK - especially if it's the 500E (altho even the 500G should be OK).

+Stephan Eilert Zooms can feel a little "clumsy" at times, but with practice it should be second nature. My problem is I usually shoot primes, so I have to adjust to a zoom each time I use my 80-400!

Depends on the lens. Some lenses require you to turn off VR, others (most modern Nikon lenses in fact) can detect when they are on a tripod and can be used that way.

The mirror lens is a different animal, many don't' have t tripod foot so you have to manage them like a shorter lens. However, it's tricky because the magnification is still very high.

Steve Perry yeah, I know! They're really tough to use but when I nail the focus, I can get really beautiful images! But usually, I've been just using it mainly as a video lens as it is so tough to use! Haha

+Chrismzeller Sadly, I ended up returning it. I've tried three of them so far, none are good enough overall to justify replacing my old 24-70G!

For the G series 600mm, I used a 5 series Gitzo, but for the new FL 600mm I'm using my 3 series Gitzo with it more and more, so I think either will do. I use a Wimberely WH 200 gimbal head - have for years - and really love it.

Sorry I was bit late to read your reply, I ordered a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L Versa Series 3 Carbon Fiber Tripod (Long) with Movo GH800 Carbon Fiber Professional Gimbal Tripod Head , Hope it will work with my Nikon D850 with my Nikon 600mm Fl

I use the Really Right Stuff 600mm foot. Love it!

I talk about this in detail in one of my podcasts - everything you need to know about stabilization and tripods: backcountrygallery.com/category/podcasts/ (Podcast #3)

+Jerry Thompson Hi Jerry: 1. 1/60th is certainly doable but everything has to fall into place. The truth is, most of the time subject moment is going to be the problem at 1/60th and slower. So, you need a perfectly still critter, and then no wind, a steady hand, no adrenaline rush, all that stuff :) But yes, with practice 1/60th is can be done pretty easily - I can actually do it very consistently even with my D500's high pixel density sensor. 2. My 80-400 is very nearly indistinguishable from the 300 F4 PF - both are razor sharp for me. A couple thoughts come to mind. First, are you using the newer "G" version of the 80-400 or the old version - the old one was pretty bad most of the time. I'd also look at the possibility that it needs some AF fine tuning. Maybe it's front / back focusing. To test, setup on a tripod and take a few shots normally, and then switch to live view and refocus with that. If Live View is getting you sharp images, then you know there's likely something wrong with the calibration of the lens to the camera. If Live View is also soft, then you have a lens issue - possibly a bad copy of the lens (I got a bad 200-500, so I know it happens). Finally, make sure you're using enough shutter speed. It seems like 2/3rds of the soft images I see have motion blur. So many times, just popping up the shutter speed is all that's needed. Figure you need to double your shutter speed on the D7100 due to the high pixel density of that sensor.

+Steve Perry Thanks for the reply Steve. I'm using the AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm 1:4.5-5.6G ED version, so yes, the newer "G" version. I had it professionally AF Fine Tuned to the D7100 and still soft but haven't attempted it yet with the D810. I haven't owned the D810 very long so will get on with doing the AF Fine Tune for the 80-400mm on it. The lens is good from 80-250mm but is soft 300-400mm. Also the mount has a little play so I sent it back to Nikon and they returned saying that the lens met all specifications and didn't require repair.

Hi Jerry - Sorry for the delay. Nikon sometimes does that, I've had it happen with gear I know had a problem. I'd try to send it back to them (maybe a different repair center). The 80-400 can really be a sharp lens. Maybe even send them sample images. Wish I could be more help, it's a shame you have a bad one and they're not helping.

Thanks Steve.

The collar ont eh 600 come with it, the one not eh 80-400 is from Really Right Stuff - they are my favorite for replacement collars.

Depends on the lens. Some manufactures tell you to shut it off for tripod use, some tell you to use it. You'll have to check your manual. I know with modern Nikon glass, you can usually use the lens on a tripod with VR on (but I tend to turn it off once I get over 1/500th ~1/1000th.

Get an EPGear Pod Pad - see tip 6 in this video: backcountrygallery.com/8-awesome-accessories-for-nature-photographers/

Maybe an issue with the lens?

I have no problems with the gimbal - I just lock the panning knob down before I walk with it and that seems to keep the rig from knocking me in the head (mostly). As for the focus issue, as Mark mentions, it could be a lens issue. However, there is a LOT that can go wrong and it's tough to say without seeing an image. Often, if you're only seeing the issue at a distance and you tend to shoot during the day you're battling heat diffraction. See this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9iKnpmimdPOqps.html

+Steve Perry i never considered heat as an issue. the optics are crystal clear. get this. i focused on a house roughly 1 mile away the house was in focus but the surrounding trees and leaves where blurry. lol. i will upload a few text shots on my Facebook page. Black Creek marsh wildlife journal. the baby wood duck on the cover photo has the blurr i am talking about

I read that some lenses have issues with the bokeh where the bokeh looks like motion blur occured but the point of focus is sharp, so its probrably that.

+Mark Chia bokeh is no as good as my Sigma 150-600

Yes :)

@@backcountrygallery I use Manfrotto plates and find they can add some looseness to the system. I just picked up gimbal.

@@mostirreverent My RRS / Kirk places are rock solid. For longer glass, it's better to replace the foot though.