“What the eyes don’t see, the heart don’t grieve over…..” a favourite expression of my grandfather. Definitely applies to bodywork. As long as the foundation is solid you don’t have to worry - it’s all about being patient with the finishing. Gradually layer the bondo, sanding it down with finer and finer grit, with any final blemishes filled with body putty, then spray undercoat, wet sanded between coats, then paint. Thin coats, again lightly wet sanded with 400-800 grit. My Elan benefitted from my apprenticeship on rusty Minis.

Top tip: use masking tape around the holes on the outside, before you put in the glassfibre patches..keeps everything neat..❤

Another great video. You can fibreglass in the sun but you have to use less catalyst as the heat speeds up the reaction👍

Many years ago, I broke the capillary tube of the temperature sender on a dual gauge similar to yours so sent it out to have it fixed. It ended up costing as much (or nearly as much) as a new gauge. You may have better luck since you are in Smiths land. I'm sure there are those who can fix your gauge and it would be worth a call to them to see what it might cost but I suspect it will make more sense to just buy a new gauge.

Hi, Markus from The Netherlands here. Like your videos, and comment keep them coming. I’m building a s1 for the circuit here and n Holland. The sound of your car is amazing! Like it. Tell me more about your carburetors/throttle bodies. Sorry about my English, my Dutch is much better 😁

Olli like your videos the improvements with the carbs ect probably are not for the concourse but you certainly can drive the car on a circuit well in the wet keep up the vids mate thumbs up from me

When filling holes, brown packing tape works well as a makeshift mold. Tape up the outside of the hole, lay up over the hole and the packing tape, when the fibreglass goes off, peel off the tape and fill over the outside. Another point, bodyfiller is porous, so cover it with something to stop water ruining the filler. Fibreglass bridging solution is waterproof.

A wide mouth plastic thread to the master cylinder body looks risky. I would be using a master cylinder with a traditional built in reservoir avoiding an unnecessary joint or a plastic remote cylinder connected to the m/s by a pipe joint.

Shame. I like the green.