And no $100,000 fancy Garage with rust on my nuts and bolts car....lol...unlike most of youtubers.

Word!~

@@FixingWithPassion Hey jave you ever replaced the water pump I need some advice

Thanks!

Amazing comment!!~~!!~!~

Great!!!

Cool thanks.

Yes!~

O my aching back!

Same

Nice good see you!

Nice!

Same thing tonight with my brother in law 02 Taurus, I just supossed to do front wheel bearings but since shocks are aftermarket, there isn't clearence unless you remove the ball joint too (which was a pain in my ass), after grind a little bit the ball joint we were able to do it, but still we need replace all bad components, so next time I will take an advice, drop the subframe a little bit just to get clearance

Thanks man!

True. The subframe is not to bad to remove or lower some.

Good idea~! Thanks!

I had to do mine this way as well

Thanks!~

Thank You!!!

Going on day 3 for me

Yea!!!

Thanks!

;D

Its always sunny on a day like today!

Yea.

Parallel universe.

Whoever designed the 2000 Taurus is my sworn enemy

Good Tips!!

Nice! I love junk yards...

Great!

O my!!

;D

Right!!

My hands show it today....ouch...

You are sooooo right!~ Its easier to do t that way!~~

Beat it like it was with your wife!!

Replaced later

Close to 3 hrs.

Nathan Rohrbough : Wow. Was not expecting you to say that. Now that you've done it once,I'm sure you could do it quicker next time.

Idk

Looks like it

Ha ha. Snap ring....my brain fart ;)

I know it's late but yes lol

Yes you could....If you can get a press tool of some kind in there, The strut housing is really close and gives less room. Perhaps someone has a way to do it as you expressed.

There is at least one video of it done that way. But you do still have to get the axle out, which seems trickier without removing anything else, but still possible. I am going to attempt to tackle it this way since I'm still flexible enough to do the pressing work while laying under the car, but if I run into any headaches I'm glad I've watched a few of these and know most of the techniques I want to use for a further disassembly. So my plan is: Axle nut loosening while tire still on ground if there is a center cap I can remove (should reduce strain on parking pawl compared to hitting that nut after removing the wheel) Lift and Remove wheel/tire Remove ball joint nut and separate from lower control arm with pickle fork Remove axle nut and washer, and attempt to separate axle from knuckle without further disassembly If all goes well to that point, I should be able to get the press tool in there to remove the old one and install the new one. One trick for that press tool was to simply cut most of the swivel part of the old one shorter with a cutoff tool, so the deep cup can be used without needing to put a socket over the ball joint threads. So I'll have my cutoff tool handy in case I want to do that.

Please post vid when you are done, or during. I have can 02 as well

Why are you replacing the axles?

@@bentnickel7487 There is a disturbing crackling sound coming from that area of the vehicle when making sharp turns. I make as wide a turn that I can now to avoid further damage. I didn't know what it was until I did some research . I think that it's also affecting the front disc rotors. The rotors were warping, so I had them resurfaced. But the problem reoccurred, so I replaced the rotors with new slotted ones to help cool them. I thought that they were getting to hot, and causing them to warp. The new rotors could possibly be damaged now because of the bad axels. There is a subtle but sure shudder while braking, so I start braking with plenty of time before I actually stop. I won't know if the rotors need to be resurfaced until after I have change out the axels, and while I'm there, change the steering linkages and control arm bushings. I have already replaced the wheel bearings. And then a realignment. Fun times.

@@realjaxon I think buying another Taurus would be cheaper than repairing. You can find a 2007 on Craigslist for less than 2000 dollars. I'm on my 3rd Taurus. I love 'em. Easy to work on. The 3L OHV is my favorite. Will go 300K if cared for.

@@bentnickel7487 I have been out of work since November of 2019, so buying another car isn't an option at this time. The parts are fairly inexpensive. New axels can be found for around $150. That '07 sure sounds good though. I have a DOHC 3.0L.

Just smack them with a big hammer when you get the nut off....and mesure the distance of the ld tie rod ends from the hold down nut....so you will have a reference for the new ones. Hopefully it still will be pretty close to aliment.

TVWXMAN32 nice any chance you would know how to get the heat,ac stuck off of default setting ( floor and defrost)

Blend door ...Heater Blend Door Actuator, either the motor is bad or the actuator is stuck. I have to look at a 2005 ford focus...it has the same issue...Video soon (when I get time) ;)

+Kyle Barstow check under the hood just below the windshield on the passenger side for a tiny vacuum lines. lines come out and causing defrost only.

TVWXMAN32 i have no heat. Air blows cold out the vents. If car is hot enough itll blow warm air for a not that long then go back to cold. And i have a egr valve insufficient flow problem something eating up my gas it burns out too quickly

IAM DIRTY GOD Yes. Same car just more luxury.

nut*

No!!!!!

Yea I found out later ;(

Its not to bad too install...Take our time...Grab a cold one...and play music and all is good!

Already ran into a big problem, the pinch pin bolt is like welded in there and won't come out. Sprayed the shit out of it with PB Blaster and it's been soaking for over 24 hours. I've tried pounding the shit out of it. I've used a air hammer. Impacting it until I broke 2 sockets. Never had anything stuck like this in my life, been working on cars since I was 15 years old. I went and bought new sockets and also a Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit. That fucker is going to come out now dammit or I going to blow it up j/k hahahaha

nun ya ....Use a breaker bar?? If not get a small propane torch and heat it up. It's gotta break loose sooner or later.

hahah..me too! Get a propane torch..heat up the part that the threads go into. Hit with some penetrating fluid. Heat it up again..(you should hear some crinkling noise) as the bolt breaks free, ....then it comes right out!! Good luck and dont break it!! Oh..if you are planning to do your struts soon, now is the time. You will have to take this all apart again or go through the misery of trying fit the strut into the cup by prying down the control arm against the subframe. It is a god awful bitch unless you lower the subframe.

I know right....Do it all now if you can ;)

2.5 Hrs on a slow day with no energy...lol

@@FixingWithPassion I am in the process of you doing my ball joint on my 97 ford Taurus

Yea I did

Nathan Rohrbough I have everything off. now I'm down to trying to remove the ball joint and it won't come out even with a pickle fork so what would your advice be on getting this out

Hammer Time! Yep you'll have to beat the crap out of it. Hit it sideways. I hade to do a Explorer the same way last week. ugh...

Nathan Rohrbough well I finally got that S. O. B out this morning. So now the task of getting the old ball joint out and the new one in

Ok, now for the ball joint...use tool removal form the parts store. Have cold beer on the side!

No. Mine was a PITA to get off also! I used a big hammer...not quite a sledge hammer and just kept hitting it until it came off. You might try some heat with a propane torch that might aloa loosen it up.

Do the wagons have good power with the longer body and weight? Never own one.

TVWXMAN32 Well it has the duratec 24 valve dual overhead cam V6 instead of the Vulcan V6 not as much horsepower It's the SES.

Thanks!

yes, the tie rod shouldnt move at all

Cool!

Да, холодный, замерзший. При остывании тела сужаются. Без пресса легко вставляется на своё место.

O no!

Dealing with this now... going to try and put the ball joint in first and then try and connect the strut. Thought I was smart putting it all together but I just cannot get the a-arm to bend low enough. Some other video I watched is doing it the way we tried to and he somehow got it to clear!

All got replaced!

And the inner

But you said it was good

BECAUSE I'M DOING THE JOB MY WAY. ITS BETTER THIS WAY FOR ME.

@@FixingWithPassion yeah but you're doing the video for other people not for you, what did you forget that. Also there's an easier way to install the bottom of the strut back into the knuckle, but I know you do it your way but yet you're making a video for other people. Your reply makes no sense like most KZfaq videos.

OK!

You should see Ohio cars...lol Mine is mint to some of them ;D

@@FixingWithPassion I got lucky with mine from Alabama!!! lol! No rust.....

Thanks, for the advice. Even I learn stuff....haha

As long as there no "play" in the movement its ok. Excessive play is a different story. That tie rod end just looked bad because I can move it. You have to feel them for slack/play. It was probably getting close to being replaced. New ones are stiffer to move but i can still move them also with my hands most of the time. There was no play in the steering or even a rattle! Car drove perfect for a year while I owned it!... -thanks for watching.