This is what I do... I do jewelry, but instead of sprueing with wax I design and print everything already on a sprue tree. Works a treat!

degass before pouring, then pour super slow from high fo min bubbles. Mix water at 36:100 not 40:100

hand cos you glued with resin, no wax, so lots left uncured inside, and hand tiny

More to come.

Agree that this is the issue. That thin area of bronze can't shrink past the constriction in the mold. Another idea, you can try to connect any thin-to-thick areas with a parallel runner. It might take some experimentation, but try adding runners from the elbow to the hand or the thigh to the hand, to strengthen against cracking during cool but also feed with warm material.

I’ve seen his videos and he does a good job. I’ve never seen him do a project this size or complexity though.

Did you find a better castable resin?

@@lundgrenbronzestudios I exclusively use Bluecast X1 now. I like it because it burns out easy, clean, and fast. I just use sticky wax to sprue and never have an issue. It’s super easy to tell if it cures because it changes colors. You just need to cure with an ultrasonic, with ethyl alcohol. It’s a bit more involved and twice the price overall, but worth it for the reliability and ease of use for paid projects. Edit: we’ll probably 4x the price. But I ain’t payin 😁

Yep. That’s why some artisans cast arms separately; the thinnest of the investment between limbs and body is ssceptible to thermal shock.

That makes sense.

Interesting idea.

I avoided the purple because I was told it needs to be cured in glycerin. And that sounded like a pain. Is that the case?

How long do you wash your prints in the wash and cure station?

@lundgrenbronzestudios I do a 2 stage washing process. First, I let the prints sit in a bucket of IPA (dirty ipa) for about 5-10 minutes. I'm usually doing something else while it sits in there, so I'm not keeping track. Then I take the stuff out and if there's a lot of resin still there I dunk it a couple more times and let it sit for a few more minutes. After that, I put it in another wash station with much cleaner IPA for 10 minutes. Then I remove them and let them dry/blow them dry a bit. If they still have lots of resin on them, its back into the wash station again. ABS like resin comes out perfect the first time, "tough" and "cast" resins usually take extra time. I hope the ultrasonic wash station can remove more resin without the prints sloshing around getting damaged. They usually go nuts whirling away in the whirlpool of ipa in the wash station. I print/investment cast much smaller stuff than you so this is a problem you might not have. BTW the parts are sometimes chopped into smaller bits for ease of supporting or to fit on smaller machines. A Saturn or uniformation printer is pretty big, but lots of people have a Mars or sonic mini or something like that. Hope this helps! You're doing awesome

I didn’t think there was that much of a size difference but I guess there was enough.

Not sure I understand what you mean.

No I never made a video like that because feel like there are already so many out there but maybe I should make one with my own spin on it.

No I haven’t used blender yet.

You like you’ve got some experience doing this. Thanks for the info.

Interesting. I didn’t know resin absorbs water.

Because it was a large size, 12k, reasonable price, and good reviews.

Never heard of anti aliasing. I’ll have to look it up. The cheat was a nearly flat angle and that’s why the layer lines were visible there.

I’ll have to look into mesh mixer. Thanks!

Not unless it is castable resin.

Really I thought a longer cure time made the prints stronger. I had it set to like 6 seconds. This resin is known for having longer cure times but maybe I over did it. I did do some test prints of little models and it seemed like it looked fine to me. I rinsed the prints in IPA and I did let them dry before curing. It turned chalky as soon as it dried. The strange thing is, if you watch the video the color became uniform because It was days between working on it. It became less chalky colored and ended up matching the other half.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios damn. That's interesting. That's part of the fun and frustration of printing. The tinkering. What was the resin you used?

Yep. Nothing is easy even resin casting but still I could have never sculpted it myself. Hot tear could be the case.

3d printers sure do come in handy. Curious if there are laws against copying patterns though?@@lundgrenbronzestudios

Maybe someday.

Do you add them in the slicer?

@@lundgrenbronzestudios i do my own modeling, but if you set very large supports, slice and export the stl, you can bring that in and set supports. Seems complex. I might make a video explaining, I think it would be easier to understand. Also, I've begun making my models hollow, and as soon as its warmer, I'm going to see if that gives the resin somewhere to expand.

You should watch the Teddy Roosevelt video I did. When the metal is still molten it is explosive.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios I suspect some sort of thermal shock anyway.

That’s good to know.

Do you call it something else?

@@lundgrenbronzestudios Oh no it's just that I'm not a native English speaker so my bronze casting vocabulary in English is very limited! I work in a bronze casting atelier, we make little chisels and texture 'stamps' from different scraps of tool steel, harden them, both for hammering/peening by hand and for pneumatic hammers.

@@palermo777 I see. I’ll have to try that next time. Thanks.

Nah. Why start with an easy one for the first project. Haha.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios Well…. But that’s how some of us learned to swim, just get tossed into the pond and hope for the best.

I moved it all over the entire area I just didn’t show it all in the edit.

You must have skipped that part of the video where I explained that that is what this is.

Good to know. I haven’t heard anyone give a good burn out schedule for it.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios probably 3 hr 150f then 3 hr 1350f for starters. 4 hr for a big flask like that probably

I think you are right about that. I just need to be carful with how fragile the resin is.

Two things that improved immensely the quality of my prints it to do that and change the support penetration depth to zero. But I've only used stardand resins so far@@lundgrenbronzestudios

Yes

Silver is the wrong color.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios colorchanging mit Messing/kupfer zugabe 😉

@@lundgrenbronzestudios noch mal zur Erklärung, ich mache mein Silberlot auch selbst, und kann dadurch auch die Farbe anpassen … ich finde halt, eine weiche Flamme besser als ein Schweißgerät … 😉🤷🏼‍♂️

Brass is the wrong color.

@lundgrenbronzestudios brass, copper, or bronze, they still make soldering wire for all 3. It's still cheaper than welding

@@thomaswakefield6889 hmm. are there any KZfaqrs that show the process of using solders for fixing sculptures? I’ve never seen that before.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios it's the same process as soldering a copper sheet metal to copper sheet metal or brass to brass.

@@thomaswakefield6889 with sheet metal it’s easy to heat up the thin metal but with the mass of the sculpture it’s so thick that it becomes a heat sink and it’s hard to get things to stick. I’ve tried but couldn’t get anything to stick. I may need an oxy, acetylene torch but I know there is a trick to it. I haven’t seen anyone show how they do it on sculptures.

So is the sun.

👏🤣😂😉🤙@@lundgrenbronzestudios

Good job.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios in SLA ist Dental Resin noch eine gute Wahl 👍🏻. Der Schmelzpunkt ist niedriger

It definitely takes practice.

It's a process to learn but once you learn correctly, it becomes a breeze and very easy to make everything work flawlessly, every time. I'd rather gouge my eyes out with a hot spoon than use the super slow and ugly fdm methods for casting lol Casting resins differ in quality, sirayas been the best affordable and BlueCast x-one used by professional jewellers as a resin of choice, but its 4x more costly than siraya with its minor process issues

Maybe. Mine is formlabs and was around $4k. Was like the best at the time. Just not worth the mess to me. And the speed seemed slower if anything compared to fdm. Especially with all the cleaning and curing. Its way quicker to do fdm, but yes the layer lines are a deal breaker for some processes. @@noviceartisan

@@dcmotive nobody likes formlabs 😂 They're SO overpriced for what you get, and for the consumables, its ridiculous. The machines do work, but you're paying into a rather ludicrous scheme with them that's not ultimately for your benefit. Their machines are okay, but not something I would ever recommend over a contemporary bottom end printer like the Mars 4 Ultra, or Sonic Mini 8Ks which are also the best printers for jewellers currently, unless they want to spend very big sums on marginal xy improvements (mars 4 ultra and Sonic Mini 8ks are 18 microns xy, which is staggeringly good). These printers also print crazy fast too, like a densely packed buildplate of 100+ rings in 3 hours, to that 18 micron accuracy. Formlabs was very good to start and they built a large business model off of it, but they're far behind the times, mostly pushing themselves onto business users who are still comparing first gen resin consumer printers to current gen fdm. Theres a learning curve sure, but once you master it you'll never look back. The only consumables on the mentioned printers are the vat film, which you can replace directly, usually 5 very good sheets for £25 or less depending on printer, the LCD (30-60 average) and the resin.. Nothing else breaks. Once calibrated correctly and once you've learnt how to support manually, no auto, and how to deal with the post print process (most use a wash and cure machine these days, I still use tubs and ultrasonic) it's basically unbreakable. For around £200-£300 you get the whole printer, I do recommend getting one of those and trying again. Quality is night and day. And the current regular abs like resins from Anycubic & Elegoo are also crazy strong, non brittle and even flexible. Its just specialty ones that require compromises, same as with printing high temp filaments or tpu

I've spoken with a number of jewellers in person about their formlabs printers and several have the same fuck it why I buy this attitude, and they've been overjoyed after ditching it and trying the better, insanely cheaper, printers with modern resins :)

I don’t understand what you are saying.

People sure seemed to like it.

@@lundgrenbronzestudios I love your channel. Please don't think just because I think this movie is stupid AF that I'm just here to hate.

Amazing tutorial of what not to do. Learning from others mistakes is really useful.

Went for $127

@@lundgrenbronzestudios Right on.