Thanks. I haven't quite hit make-a-call-on-the-bike miles yet (60 to go), but I really like it. The only thing that still annoys me is that I can't mount a dual-PM on it, but in the grand scheme of things I didn't get this bike to do the kind of riding where that really matters.

That's hilarious, and awesome! So much better.

The thru axles work very well and are well thought out. You should set the adjustment on your "hub squeeze" then set your levers back and back- not like this guy...

Great point. I've never thought about it that way.

Aside from the niggles I mentioned in the video, it's an awesome bike. Very comfortable, super stable.

Thanks for sharing your feedback. That other OEMs use this type of axle didn't make them less crap 🙂. My fat bike came with a similar setup. It also got replaced. Regarding the seatpost. I ended up getting the setback seatpost. It wasn't as bad, but still has the same issues. I have since replaced it with another seatpost, which works properly.

@@Mamilian Don't recall for sure, but I may have coated the inside of the seat post clamping area with that carbon clamping grease with grit in it. As for the quick release style through axle, I would tend to agree that I don't like the design. My preference is starting to be the through axles that you use an hex key to remove. They are lighter and why would you be out on your bike without a multi-tool?

​@@erics9214 I tried assembly paste, also tried scoring the inside of the tube (per Lynskey Support recommendation) with coarse grit sandpaper, and torquing it to the absolute limit recommended by Lynskey Support. If I were using a saddle with metal rails, the torque number would have been higher, but I like the additional compliance carbon rails net on a gravel bike. These things helped, but wasn't able to find a permanent solution, so I solved it with a different seatpost :).

Great idea!

Large in both. They have very similar geometry.

I've gotten better at it, but never solved it with anything less than running smaller tires :). That said, swapping the 45c Riddler for a 42c Pathfinder was a great choice for other reasons too.

I made a separate video on that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJ9iZK6r0ZeqoJ8.html

I have mixed feelings about it. There's an argument to be made that it protects the inner cables from grit and water better, and is less complicated. I don't know how real those benefits are, but I have ridden the bike in terrible conditions and the cables are almost completely protected.

I'm not sure where I fall on the value-vs-aluminum frame either. It's definitely better at damping trail chatter, but it was significantly more expensive too, so it should be better :).

My "fix" was to stop using it :D. I never got it to stop slipping. Replaced it with a nice carbon seat post.

It also costs 50% more currently, personally can't justify spending 500$ extra...

As an "all-road" bike, I think the R300 would be a soild choice. Max tire size is 32c, so that's the main limitation to how gravelous you can get. If you're riding chunky, really loose, or muddy stuff, that might not be enough.

@@Mamilian Ok thanks

I used the 15mm C bolts with this frame.

"Shimano Flat-Mount Road Disc Caliper Fixing Bolt C, 15mm Thick Chainstay". In theory, you could use any bolt with the appropriate length and threading, but the Shimano bolts have a safety tab on the end for a clip. Personally, I wouldn't use a bolt that wasn't designed for this purpose because I want to be confident that it can take the loads and won't corrode in the caliper.

@@Mamilian hmm...but I guess that's more of a concern for Shimano, it seems. Currently have sram parts to install and no safety tab/clip that I see

@@_dmart Yep, SRAM doesn't use clips, but the points around load/corrosion are probably still valid. I totally get that's it's crazy to spend $20 on two bolts, but when I compare that cost to new teeth or a month off the bike because I crashed, it doesn't seem like a great place to save $.

Large. The frame is 2.05kg. Uncut fork is 475g.

Can't say more generally, but the BB interface tube was fine on mine based on a quick inspection check with a flat surface and a flashlight. I don't have the tools to actually measure it though. Haven't had any issues with either Shimano or SRAM BSA BBs.

@@Mamilian got it...thank you for responding

Thanks for letting us know the GRX crank fits, but you might want to characterize that differently. I said my Pioneer PM didn't fit, and I couldn't put a cadence sensor in the normal place because of the clearance against the frame. You can see the clearance in the video. It's way too close. If you use a crank with a wider Q factor of course there's going to be more room. Rotor also makes something that might work.

@@Mamilian yeah i was going to bring this up, it's a gravel frame, the geo is designed around gravel components like GRX which as you mentioned have a wider q-factor, not really surprising that your ultegra power meter has clearance issues, very nice walk thru though.

@@clovioushoofus3928 Fairly confident that the GR300 was designed before GRX was launched. It definitely was designed before GRX was widely available. Have to keep in mind that Shimano's original approach to gravel is exactly what I have on this bike (and my Revolt): Road Group + RX800 RD. Probably also worth keeping in mind that road cranks are the only way to put chainrings that are sized appropriately for racing on gravel bikes.

The weight for the frame was with the rear axle removed, seat clamp on, no removable headset elements (e.g. bearings & topper). In retrospect, I should have removed the seatpost clamp, but too late to fix that now :).

@@Mamilian Thank you for your response. I don't think the seat post clamp added too much. That frame weight is a tad more than they advertise.

@@flatlandrider2369 Most companies are a bit loose with the claimed weight :). The clamp is 30.2g.

@@flatlandrider2369 I was wrong before (found the photo). I actually did remove the seat clamp when I weighed the frame.

@@Mamilian Here is my dilemma, if you care to offer any thoughts. I have been demo-ing a Lauf True Grit, which weighs about 18.5 lbs. with pedals. I can buy it at a very good price, as it is a leftover. I am not sure I like carbon bikes, and am thinking of buying a GR300 and putting all of the parts from the Lauf onto it. It has 1560 gram DT Swiss wheels, carbon bars and seatpost, and a Sram Force1 drivetrain (not a Sram guy, but it works fine). I figure the added frame weight, but the lesser fork weight would put me just under 20 lbs. Am I nuts? FWIW, I have a Lynskey mountain bike that I really enjoy.

This build with titanium post is 9.4 kg (20.68lb) with XT pedals and bottle cages. Definitely room for improvement if I want, but I'm probably not going to mess too much.

@@Mamilian The FSA carbon seat post will be much more comfortable than Titanium, there are 2 excecllent lab tests done on these if you google "Velo Lab Seatpost Review Getting the most from your post - VeloNews.com" or " Seatposts_ Often Overlooked Yet Critical For Your Comfort (Lab Testing) - CyclingAbout.com". I specced the FSA K-Force w/ 25 SB on my Ti Bike, rides amazing vs metal and the labs proved it scientifically (or somewhat scientifically). Carbon fiber absorbs different frequency of vibration than Ti (and the FSA-K-Force is one of the best out of the bunch), by having both Ti and Carbon components, you may end up absorbing a broader spectrum of road imperfections and add to the overall comfort. Also, you might end up saving more money by returning the Ti seatpost which seems to have a design flaw anyways...just my 2 cents. Really enjoyed watching your bike-related videos thus far, please keep on posting, very educational and I've learned a ton from them. Cheers!

@@jamesthecow I originally picked up the FSA K-Force for exactly that reason. It made riding a wheel-on trainer tolerable vs the aluminum post that came with my Domane.

To add to this "database" of build weights, I just built a large GR300 with external routing that came in at 20.05 lbs., with pedals, and with tubes. It has 105 shifters and calipers, 160mm rotors, GRX812 derailleur, DT Swiss XR1501 wheelset with 240S hubs, Maxxis 700x40c tires, Easton carbon bars and cranks, carbon seat post with a not-the-lightest Bontrager saddle, aluminum stem, and SPD pedals. I did swap out the axles. The stock ones were acceptable, but I did not prefer them. I did not use exactly the same ones Mamilian used, but they are similar. So, it is not SUPER light, but is respectably light for a relatively lower-cost titanium frame.

@@flatlandrider2369 Which axles did you use? My friends with the GR300 may be interested but I know they aren't at Andrew's price point!

Yes. 160mm front and rear.

@@Mamilian Thank you. Interestingly, my frame is a size L and, according to my scale (similar to yours), weighs 4.25 lbs., or about 1,930 grams with derailleur hanger and all frame screws (for cages/racks, etc.). I did not include the axle or seat tube clamp. The only difference I can think of that might make that bit of weight difference is externally routed vs. internally routed frame (inner hose/cable guides). It is not a huge difference, but notable. I didn't weigh the fork.

@@flatlandrider2369 It totally makes sense that the internal would weigh more. There's an extra titanium pipe inside the downtube.

It's the mill finish. If you're planning to upgrade the finish, definitely have a chat with them before ordering. They threw it in for free.

My assumption was that it's there to allow air to more easily move in/around the frame just in case moisture gets in. It's quite possible that it serves that purpose as well.

It is there for when they weld the circular clamp housing to the seat tube. The inside and the outside of the tube must be purged with inert gas during welding to avoid oxidation. The hole allows for gas flow down the inside of the seat tube when they do the weld.

Garmin Fenix 6 Titanium

The finish is holding up perfectly. I love the indestructibility of titanium. TBH, I'm conflicted about the internal routing. I like it, I think it looks a little cleaner, but it doesn't really add anything to the bike functionally except cost. Sorry I don't have a better answer there :).

Thanks for responding. I agree that internal looks cleaner. Have you ever been in a situation where you wished the frame had external cable routing? I’m looking into buying a GR300 frameset, and am trying to decide if it is worth the cost to go external and if there are any drawbacks to it. Thanks!

@@seanhayes2112 The only time I seriously questioned the decision to go internal was when I had to pay the invoice :).

Yeah, the additional cost of internal is a concern as I’m on a budget. Was curious about how much your build weighed when completed? Thanks

@@seanhayes2112 I can't find the photo of the exact weight, and it's changed since then (different seat post, top tube bag, etc). It's ~20lb with 42c Pathfinders on it.

That is less than I paid. So maybe ;).

I used Robert Axle Project axles: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJ9iZK6r0ZeqoJ8.html

@@Mamilian Was thinking Robert Axle would be a great solution. Am looking into a Ti frame but considering the Chinese Waltly option and your issues hopefully will keep some of these issues from recurring.

​@@onemetre I considered Waltly, seems like a great option depending on your requirements. Definitely LMK how it goes if you get one.

I ended up using a S-Works carbon seatpost. It's been great so far.

I did not, it would be really easy to clean off it it was a problem, but it hasn't been. I do put helicopter tape on carbon bikes to protect the frame in this area. It's really easy to rub off paint, especially on a gravel bike.

@@Mamilian What is helicopter tape?

@@erickcarlson9245 It's a clear protective tape specially designed to prevent friction wear for things like this. If you look closely on most bike builds there are little bits of it around the headset to prevent damage from the hoses/outer cables.

Using a different Q is a complicated topic. It's not something I would randomly suggest to someone without knowing more about what problem they are trying to solve.

found the video where you talked about it

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r8B8ertnqLiRhHU.html

Large

@@Mamilian How is the sizing on these? I'm just barely 6' with a 32" inseam and it puts me between M/L and L. For reference, I ride a L 2007 Look 565 and a L 2021 Trek Top Fuel.

@@gfeucht The sizing is really consistent b/w this and my Revolt, both are L (you can see them next to each other here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7R_oaih3daxh58.html). I'm 6'1", and the L is perfect for me. Either would probably work for you. You're in the enviable position that you have more flexibility to choose a size based on how you want the bike to ride. This is a great way to visualize the differences: bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fa321816f35df0017f62930,5fa321816f35df0017f62931,

That's another great site I didn't know of, thanks for heads up!

The frame is large, I'm 6'1" (187cm).

@@Mamilian thank you so much for the reply, i got size M GR300 frame for sale in my country, should be perfect size to me (178 cm)

Sorry, should have mentioned that. It has the "Industrial Mill" finish.

@@Mamilian Thank you!

Only temporary :)

what model is gravel specific?