I'm 15, and I was in my friend's neighborhood about a month ago someone was throwing away an old briggs engine from the 70s and somehow the oil looked brand new and it ran great

Nice video. Not over explaining, good camera work. Short and too the point without getting off topic. Two thumbs up.

I just found this exact same lawn mower in my neighbors barn and am messing with it now, thanks for this vid!

Nice video, I do the same as you, buy old engines and restore them, I only have a few in my collection at the moment I have a Sthil FS96 engine which is quite rare, a petter A1 engine, an old 1980 12HP I/C Briggs and a few more, keep up with what you are doing, brilliant and very informative.

I'm restoring a 1985 Murray push mower, flood recovery you can see running on my channel. It has that carb, but with a heated choke spring and it has that same diaphragm with the vacuum pull off linkage. It uses the screw in muffler instead of bolt on. No decals on the recoil housing, but an embossed logo where you have the rectangular sticker. It runs really good, but has some cylinder scoring that I can see, but not feel. It's really been through a lot of trauma with the tax day flood in 2016, then Harvey the next year. Sat outside for who knows how long, unloved. I'm thinking of polishing the block and doing something other than black on the recoil housing, maybe gloss red. Painted the gas tank flat black. Silver high heat for the steel part of the muffler. The deck is going to be the hardest part, lots of rust, but no holes.

My Briggs and Straton lawn mower is 20+ years old and starts first time, every time.

3:01 "Not the right gasket for this engine". Actually they made one gasket which fit the 3/3.5HP (9 cubic inch) engines and the 4HP (11 cubic inch) engine, which had a wider crankcase in that area. The gasket 'flap' you noted is actually the part that makes it work with the 4HP variant. It is very likely a factory installed gasket.

Hey, great video, have been keen enough myself to take sump off one of these so thanks. Got a heads up tho, the previous owner has also lost the spring and round shim for your carb as well as the screw, if you watch another briggs autochoke video you can see the part in talking about. They said it's very important for the running of the mower. I don't want you throwing all that work away if it won't run dude.

some of these old 3.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engines will have different starters one a wind up starter and in the 1970s a vertical pull starter. as the engines made before 1982 will have the points under the cover under the flywheel angines after 1982 will have a Magnatron electronic ignition. the carburetors they have a vacujet or a pulsajet carburetor the engines from the 90s and later will have a pulsaprime carburetor a plastic carburetor with a primer bulb. as well in the 1990s and later the shrouds are more styled and offered as the classic, Sprint 3.75 HP and Quattro 4 hp. till in the 200s is when Briggs and Stratton switched the power rating to Gross Torque. as the later 3.5 hp engines have a plastic camshaft in it. as the older 3.5 engines from the 1950s- the 1990s are designed better with a metal camshaft the blocks from the 1970s to the 1990s are modular as parts can be interchanged but painted to match the color. as the engines from the 1980s will have if on mowers a blade brake on them some saying System 2 Manual start. in the US in the 1980s is when the blade brake became manditory on all rotary push mowers, edgers, and string trimmers. as the old engines are good for display too.

I got one of these recently, its been sitting for the last 20 years.

Hey this stickers upside down too and this one's from the factory!!!! That's just a little jab from that beautiful tiller that you did!!

Hey! Greeting from texas... i have a few of those b/s pulse jet engines some bought, dumpster dives and freebies. One, mounted on a atlas 20inch deck from assume the 80s or 70s. Insted of dealing with the old parts for the carb i just put a new style pulse jet carb and tank on works great... next project is a wizzer mower from the 50's!

Great vid Can’t find part 2 can someone please link me to it

But those little pulse jet engines are highly underrated simple and very rugged when treated right

One unique trait of that engine that is the exhaust muffler... and the locaton of dipstick very different from what i have seen here

you should use a straight edge and the appropriate feeler gauge I want to say .03 , not sure though, on the top of the tank especially the part where the choke spring goes around the 10 -11 o'clock position where there is the round hole with the small metering channel that goes to the big recess where the choke spring goes. Those tanks warp a lot. I think it is from pouring cold gas into the tank after the mower has run out while running.

Mine has that gasket overhang too

I have the exact same engine and need piston rings where do you get the parts you use?? Btw I love your videos 👍

Your missing the spacer cup and spring that goes under the diaphragm on the carburettor ,you can see where it would of gone by the big circle mark on the diaphragm,

I have the same engine on a tiller great engine

Wow Cool Video Rauman

I have this motor although my carb does not have 2 fuel feeds to the carb as yours does. It just has one fuel feed on the bottom of the carb along with the spring for the choke. Can I replace the old carb on this engine with a bulb primer carb? Any idea of which carb I might use? ie. Briggs and Stratton ref. number. Thanks, as you can see I really appreciate your rebuild blog.

Briggs typically came in black, white, or orange. This one was white originally, not cream. Haha

When you were cleaning the carburetor , you did not show taking the mixture screw out and cleaning the jet inside .

What's the little cable/wire that's sticking out on the left side of the spark plug doing?

We're is Part 2 , can't find it?

How did you get the engine of the mower body

the round spring and cap are missing from under the diapram

Did you ever finish this restore. I was hoping to see a test run.

GOOD MORNING AMERICA IN VIETNAM. THANKS

Hey mate, I have the exact same engine and I was wondering if you could tell me the name of the small metal part at 4.12. It's in the top of the carb on the beige colored valve. It looks like a tiny screw or jet? What is this part and how necessary is it?

I've got this same engine in great condition like yours but black

As best as I can make out these stampings: MODEL 92902 TYPE 1789-01 CODE 80071805 (July 18, 1980)

You sound like daggerwin 👍🏻

can you confirm which side the spring goes before putting the diaphragm back on? I didn't see it being removed or put back. also how did you clean the main jet? thanks.

Were do you find these engines?

First time I've seen a hex-head cut on the end of a crankshaft...

¿Como se el número de modelo de mi cortacesped si no lo tiene?

Please. ..i have thé same engine....could you give me thé reference off the spark plug .....thanks

Any suitable gasoline؟؟؟

Does anyone know where I might find parts and gaskets for this engine? I am trying to rebuild/restore an almost identical engine to the one in this video. Except mine was manufactured a bit later, March 7 1986. It's older than I am lol.

Where do you get a replacement diaphragm for that carburetor? I have the same one but it is ripped

How Much Was It?

do you have another youtube channel

Why put the same old diaphram back on?

Where is part 2 then ?? Not happy with this mate

Mines yellow!

Its missing the large spring that lives under the diaphragm

What's white spirit?

shaveings are not bad in oil

Because of the low value of these engines, I believe it makes more sense to just do a compression check on them. If it has adequate compression, I drain the oil and then clean the sump of sludge with a little gas, sloshing the gas around and then draining it. Then I refill with 10-30 or 30 wt. synthetic. It makes no sense to remove the sump on an engine with compression unless the crankshaft seal is leaking and needs to be replaced.

actually not as rare as you think!

I have one of these. It's bad.

how do you check oil level?