That's precision plain and simple. Incredible job. Thank you.

Unloosening that screw to set belt tension must require a very small unloosener :)

As always, a work of art

The quill stop to top of part / move z axis for depth trick is actually brilliant, rather than relying on the typically less accurate readings from a quill. Thanks Joe!.

Great job! I figured you were gonna go back to your reliable two-button-filing method to clean up that casting. There was just to much movement in the part to get a satisfying finish. Using brass also helps clean the file while working on aluminium. My Master taught me to clean files with a piece of brass. It's so good! Always have some in my workbench. Ever heard of this?

Joe, is your wife building the line drive workshop model to house all the machines 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Always enjoy the shop gems Joe!

One of my students said, when you put the arm in the lathe fixture to better file away after the casting error, "Is he gonna pull the file back every time that little dogleg comes around?" That was about a second before you said, "Just don't turn the machine on!" (I paused the video before you said that.) I told him, "That's Joe Pie - he's just that good!" First year students are fun for their wide-eyed joy of discovery. It seems that you've kept a good bit of that and it's obviously not your first year. Way to go, sir! Thank you!

An endless supply or helpful tips. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Fabulous. Lots of great tips - but the undersize gage pin tip is SO easy and such a great idea - I’ll be using that for sure.

You're so full of innovative practical solutions, I tip my hat to you. I appreciate your advise of not to start the machine when filing the rotating bracket. Wise advise.😂😂

@2:20 A gem indeed. A brilliant gem!!!

The last time I used a lathe was about 55 years ago in high school. I have now purchased one and I am trying to learn/remember how to use it. I wish I could do 1/10 of the things that you know how to do. I'm thinking about going to the college and taking a course. Love what you do, please keep making these video's. Thank you

Joe, when I have to use a thin low friction shim I get an empty rectangular plastic 2litre milk bottle or 3l orange bottle and cut out the flat faces. Then drill the required hole and use small fixture in the lathe to get the OD to size.

Really finicky assembly, but it comes together really nicely. Great workmanship as always!

Joe, seems like you've come down with a serious case of meticulitus!

Looks very nice. The lathe finish job on that radius really worked well.

Very good job Mr Joe Pie..thanks for your time

This is turning into the best model build yet. That filing operation/setup reminded me of filing for a beaver tail grip safety on a 1911! Good stuff Joe!

Great work,Joe.Thank you.

Thank you Joe another great video by a true master of his craft.

As always, informative and interesting Joe... 🙂

Thanks for sharing

Another great chapter in this series, & keep those shop gem coming they awesome.

Nice work! Thanks for your time.

Nice process Joe, I like how you think things thru before the chips fly.

Another great learning experience. Thanks. Would you please do a "quickie" to show how you make those tiny washers? -Kurt

Love the lathe trick - say goodbye to pesky filing buttons!

Hi Joe, You have always had good tid bits of tricks to clean up this or that and how not to paint yourself into a corner. We all sure appreciate those tidbits. Great to see that inclusion dissapear my friend.Things are looking great Joe. See you next post for sure.

Thank you for all the hard work in making these excellent videos.

Good work Mr P. all the joys of model engineering, My fat fingers sometimes dictate the project! and many tools are made to get at the tiny screws in tight corners.

Perfection!

Amazing work. Great tips. And you never disappoint!, Joe! Glad I hung in long enough for the obligatory unloosen...

👍 really appreciate the shop jems Joe! Now I just have to have recall😁Thanks for sharing.

Wow! The alignment accuracy you achieve is just incredible. I can only aspire to get that good with my model engineering machining. Thanks Joe!

Had an eccentric boss once, actually he was just plain crazy, but we called him eccentric 'cause we didn't want to get canned.

Good

Great discussion/mentorship/build….please increase the volume of your 7 second intro music FFS!!! To maybe get the moaners in the comments to FO!!!

nice

Nice one Joe always learning something from you also shop gems into my little black book Cheers mate

If Joe is satisfied and like it. I am sure the workmanship is excellent.

Another outstanding installment Joe. I was wondering if you keep track of (log) the hours you have invested in these museum quality pieces.

excellent, I like to see the details and appreciate the explanations. very much appreciate this vids

Joe, you definitely get an Attaboy for this one and that should cancel that awsh## you had awhile back 😉! 😊 ! Would never have out guessed your set up on this one .

Hi Boss, excellent stuff as always. Hope this is not out of line but I need inner bore gauges and the budget is a little tight (with inflation and all:)) and was wondering if you had an opinion on a name brand that is ok to start with? I see you have Shars in your list and made an assumption you would not have much bad to say. Is getting a set with the gauge a better option or getting the Telescoping Gage Set better as I do have a nice 1-2" Mitutoyo mic? The wife would love a new boot to stick up my $$$ since I just spent 11K on a new lathe so I better go a little cheap for now.

Turning in a collet in a mill vice = Gem. THANKS Joe.

What's the plan for belts? Gonna need them on the other machines.

and do the hokey pokey..

Thumbs down for this one Joe! No Unloosen I jest... Great work and a few shop gems thrown it as well! Stay safe n well. TFS, GB :)

That Back Boring trick. I've done similiar in the past. Both with a boring head and with a K&T Rotary Head Mill. One thing l found with small diameter parts held in 5C collets. If you use a Disk Type Collet Stop the collet not only holds the part radially but also puts a tension load on the part. This happens because as you tighten the collet it draws the part axially into the collet block, spindle or what ever the collet is geing used in. This tension really helps with rigidity. Also exreme useful holding lengths to shoulders if you have a variation in rough tirned parts. Every .001" difference in diameter is .003" in length in a 20° included angle. Hardinge sells the Disk Type (1) collet stops but they are dead easy to make. 2" diameter bar stock. Counter bore the back side to clear the collet body. But, always a but, the spindle face, indexer face, or collet block face must be dead square to the centerline of the device holding the collet. And the faces on the disk must be parallel. 1) They are in their workhold catalog.

he joe, wat does "shop gem" mean in dutch (or english) ? like your content very much. cheers ben

Hi Joe, I love the work you do and appreciate the rich knowledge you share, however, I find the intro music so annoying I have to skip it all together. Please change the into music. Don't get me wrong I think you are great and have followed you for almost ten years. Keep up the good work, from a fellow Diver and amateur machinist. I don't know if anyone feels the same, haven't read much of the comments in the past.

2 for 1

Joe, shouldn't there be wrench flats or somesuch on that eccentric part? How else would a miniature machinist be able to tighten it in position?

Joe, you are always showing methods for indicating parts and namely odd parts. Do you ever use tooling balls? Would love to see you put them to use.

✋🏼🇦🇺👍🏼

I'm surprised you don't have or haven't built a filing machine, I've seen a couple people build one from a kit.

It's fantastic you don't need a mechine to do that but the mechine became a holding device . Not every thing needs to be mechined. Just need attention