What CLIMBING SHOES Should YOU Get???

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Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø

4 жыл бұрын

Check out my chalk bags ► rungne.com/collections/all
Heinz ► @heinzmariacher
Nathan ►nathanhoette
Thank you @michaelmeisl for helping me with the camera!
We had two cameras set up during the talk about climbing shoes, but one was out of focus the entire time. I could only use the footage from the close up camera, so sorry if it's a bit too close at times. Had to also use lots of b roll to cover it, which may seem a bit weird too.
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Пікірлер: 534
@bittsitts
@bittsitts 4 жыл бұрын
The title of this video really doesn't do it justice. In-depth interview and tips from legendary climbing shoe designers is what it is, and it has a completely different depth and quality than your regular "Which climbing shoe should I buy". I've owned at least 10+ different brand shoes over the years, and learnt a LOT! Kudos Magnus! Very glad I didn't follow my initial instinct to skip this video.
@xzaclee4067
@xzaclee4067 4 жыл бұрын
Bitt Sitt totally agree! Way cool to hear from the designer himself of my favorite shoes which were La Sportiva and have now made the switch to Scarpa! You can absolutely tell they are high quality shoes. Great video and thanks!
@samroberts7404
@samroberts7404 4 жыл бұрын
You should check out the shoes these two legends are wearing kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bLRyl69_3Jq5fKs.html
@seanmacnaughton2981
@seanmacnaughton2981 4 жыл бұрын
Guess hes just a humble dude 🤷‍♀️🤷‍♀️
@TrackpadProductions
@TrackpadProductions 2 жыл бұрын
It's like reverse clickbait.
@sebastian-ny1sp
@sebastian-ny1sp 4 жыл бұрын
magnus have climbed for 20+ years " you can wash climbing shoes? " haha
@alexonmute2085
@alexonmute2085 3 жыл бұрын
@Briar Kolton no one cares and thats creepy
@alexonmute2085
@alexonmute2085 3 жыл бұрын
@@erwandomine6563 why did you delete your comment and then comment 4 months later?
@Bmac2112
@Bmac2112 2 жыл бұрын
He probably burns through them before he’d need to wash them - he’s a climbing maniac
@SteveMcMief
@SteveMcMief 2 жыл бұрын
How do I wash my climbing shoes? Which detergent? Machine or hand wash?
@Aliaschko
@Aliaschko 2 жыл бұрын
@@SteveMcMief soapy warm water, handwash, dont throw them into the machine Tried with mine a week ago, they kind of retight a bit stop smelling and look fresh again. I can just recommend ☺️
@powderrida
@powderrida 4 жыл бұрын
From a footwear designer's perspective this is hands down the best video analyzing different climbing shoe attributes. Explaining the intent and lifetime behind a shoe is incredibly important for a user to understand.
@Fred12121989
@Fred12121989 4 жыл бұрын
I don't know were to write this, so I'll write it on your last video I guess. Just to say that your channel is amazing, a lot of different quality content, very well filmed and edited. It is amazing to see your training, even though you constantly say that you are out of shape, you remain one of the very best climbers in the world. You have onsighted a 8c+ and redpointed a 9b route, less than 20 people have done it... The videos I like the most are outdoors climbing, but the gym sessions and acrobatic stuff are good too ! Your positive personality and kindness are what make this channel so cool. We say too much bad things and not enough nice things. Keep it up ! You earned a subscriber.
@MedniLedved
@MedniLedved 4 жыл бұрын
"Why don't you just wash them you lazy bastard?" Hahaha. This guy is priceless! :-D
@lenisemicolon
@lenisemicolon 4 жыл бұрын
I have my first bouldering session next week. Can't wait to try those communal rental shoes!
@whiphore
@whiphore 4 жыл бұрын
teenage spaceland they are better than anything you’d own but most rentals suck I climb at least a grade lower normally if I forget my shoes if not worse I can never trust my feet
@lenisemicolon
@lenisemicolon 4 жыл бұрын
Whitts adventures Well I can’t do any worse than V0 where I’ll be starting 😅
@occult7874
@occult7874 4 жыл бұрын
teenage spaceland Hey, late to the party. How did it go man? Last Friday I went for the 4th or 3rd time ever, still struggling with those V0s
@lenisemicolon
@lenisemicolon 4 жыл бұрын
@@occult7874 I've only been 3 or 4 times too but I'm hooked; I joined the gym and got my own shoes. I've conquered all the V0's but some of the V1's are still besting me. I'm about 6' tall and the intro grades in my gym are only 12' high so for many of them I can reach the finish hold without finishing the end of the boulder haha. My climbing partner is 5'2" and the height advantage is huge so far.
@arniechavez4953
@arniechavez4953 4 жыл бұрын
@@lenisemicolon what shoes dit you go for? I went for the first time last Saturday and managed to complete a V0 and two V1s but i would love to know what show you found good for you!
@yaboi772
@yaboi772 4 жыл бұрын
I love watching Heinz climb, every movement is so controlled and methodical. You can tell that he’s thinking about every move he makes
@sparkythewildcat97
@sparkythewildcat97 4 жыл бұрын
I'd really love to see the difference in magnus's ability based on the shoe. Maybe you could do a video where you climb a fairly difficult wall for you (V8-9?) and then attempt that wall with your recommended beginner shoes? Or maybe start at easier boulders and see how high of a rating you can get on beginner shoes, precise (stiff) shoes, and then your favorite soft shoes. Could be very entertaining and educational!
@jasminedoyle1724
@jasminedoyle1724 2 жыл бұрын
+
@thomasseillers3905
@thomasseillers3905 2 жыл бұрын
very nice video idea. maybe also include climbing in crocs. But not just campus xD
@LoganCralle
@LoganCralle Жыл бұрын
+
@publicalways
@publicalways 8 ай бұрын
+
@russellstirling1531
@russellstirling1531 4 жыл бұрын
Man watching you clip is weirdly satisfying. Everything from the sound of the draw to your the smooth practiced motion while doing it... Makes me want to book another trip so bad
@westie430
@westie430 4 жыл бұрын
Right?? I agree! I thought I was the only one😏
@MrMoppeh
@MrMoppeh 4 жыл бұрын
I remember you replied a really motivational response when I messaged you on instagram saying I got my first pair of scarpa's and got into climbing thanks to your vids... 9 months later now i'm a bit better and looking to get a more intermediate shoe this is ideal timing :D
@hetfield177
@hetfield177 4 жыл бұрын
i just got the scarpa arpia. its a bit more performance but none of those extreme shoes. Its unbelievably comfortable. try it if you can
@alfiepicton1339
@alfiepicton1339 4 жыл бұрын
@@hetfield177 what grade did you climb?? I can climb like V-4 and sometimes V-5 is it good for that type of grade??
@hetfield177
@hetfield177 4 жыл бұрын
@@alfiepicton1339 the shoes are not the most try hard shoes ever, but you can climb easily the grades you named. BUT i had to send my arpias back to scarpa after only a couple of weeks, because the net and the band on the shoes ripped. They were extremely comfortable but not long lasting at all. I dont know if they have fixed the issues.
@alfiepicton1339
@alfiepicton1339 4 жыл бұрын
@@hetfield177 ah ok, Thanks
@chocolatedumdum2
@chocolatedumdum2 4 жыл бұрын
That was an excellent and underrated video Magnus! Thanks for taking the time to track down Heinz and talk to him. I think it’s so important to speak to the people who helped develop climbing as we know it
@Danielviomusic
@Danielviomusic 4 жыл бұрын
Magnus, could you do a vid about stretching and arm care for climbers, please?
@MaxInvicte
@MaxInvicte 4 жыл бұрын
Problem is: he once said, that he doesnt do any of that.
@verbalwound5874
@verbalwound5874 4 жыл бұрын
Would have better luck asking Adam for that, he cares about the little things more since he's still a competitive climber.
@dojanglesclimb
@dojanglesclimb 4 жыл бұрын
Try some light yoga, massage your hands and forearms, hang on a bar from one or both hands after a session to stretch. These are just some things that come to mind.
@goosjer
@goosjer 4 жыл бұрын
Stretching has been proved to not be beneficial in any way ;)
@dojanglesclimb
@dojanglesclimb 4 жыл бұрын
@@goosjer haha ;)
@philzlzlz
@philzlzlz 4 жыл бұрын
Magnus thanks for posting this! So helpful, as I've spent the last month evaluating/buying a few different shoes and am starting to understand all of the different trade-offs. I'd love more videos like this. Keep up the good work!!
@Destort
@Destort 4 жыл бұрын
This is probably the best video on shoes I've ever seen. Thank you for recording your conversation with these guys Magnus!
@fane7965
@fane7965 Жыл бұрын
I've watched so many videos regarding climbing shoes and the amount of educative info on this one is invaluable. Thanks for pouring yourself into the content you make Magnus!
@mascalian
@mascalian 4 жыл бұрын
This is an incredible video: so interesting and full of useful information!! Thanks, Heinz, Nathan and Magnus!
@gustavoalcaraz202
@gustavoalcaraz202 4 жыл бұрын
I love your climbing videos, Magnus, but this ... we need more of this. Excellent video, really useful and informative, at least for me its the best answer for how to choose the right climbing shoe, keep them coming man
@shwa8157
@shwa8157 4 жыл бұрын
What a great video! Thanks Heinz, Nathan and Magnus for filling in the blanks within my thoughts on climbing shoe construction!
@elfriederich
@elfriederich 4 жыл бұрын
Heinz ist just an awesome dude. Really like him!
@aaroncummings8736
@aaroncummings8736 4 жыл бұрын
I love how my favorite shoe just hang out in the background the whole time. Those orange Scarpa's are phenomenal.
@ashblud92
@ashblud92 4 жыл бұрын
Aaron Cummings the instincts are an amazing shoe. It was my ‘real’ pair and I always end up reverting back to them after experimenting with other shoes. I can highly recommend trying it’s other variation (blue ones).
@davidnguyen5936
@davidnguyen5936 4 жыл бұрын
@@ashblud92 I got a pair like 1.5 months ago and they are my first 'real' pair. Thought I might've downsized too much but they're breaking in perfectly.
@sevs802
@sevs802 4 жыл бұрын
I climbed in Sportiva only for almost 15 years. Just got VSs last year and they’ve become my favorite shoe. Now I’ve learned to be open-minded about new makes!!
@xFCB4EVERx
@xFCB4EVERx 4 жыл бұрын
MattyS try la sportiva solution comp. they are amazing
@JacoNotorious
@JacoNotorious 4 жыл бұрын
Just went to a Scarpa Demo in Germany. I love the Instinct VS and the Drago quite a bit! I bouldered for 4 hours in 6 shoes, I highly recommend finding a demo!
@PlumbingGod
@PlumbingGod 4 жыл бұрын
This was a very helpful shoe video, I don't think I'll be able to look at shoes the same way ever again. I'm looking for my third pair as I begin my transition from strictly bouldering to more top rope and this video gave me a lot of info, thanks Magnus and I'll be looking out for those Boosters Heinz!
@swifthippo1
@swifthippo1 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Magnus, have you considered doing some ice climbing? I feel like that would be really entertaining if it’s not too much of a hassle to organise. Looking forward to the stuff with Tom and Juji!
@danmillar3898
@danmillar3898 4 жыл бұрын
Get Juji and Tom on ice! Followed by XC skiing, that would be some funny/inspirational stuff.
@Chris-de2qc
@Chris-de2qc 2 жыл бұрын
Lol Tom....
@JB-zv1mv
@JB-zv1mv 4 жыл бұрын
That was a great informative video! Glad you did one on shoes and thanks for focusing on bouldering shoes as well.
@naturalphysique4673
@naturalphysique4673 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Magnus Midtbo
@EatLikeYouMeanIt
@EatLikeYouMeanIt 4 жыл бұрын
Sup
@krischi_mk
@krischi_mk 4 жыл бұрын
best comment ever
@connordoran309
@connordoran309 4 жыл бұрын
Well thought
@qu2409
@qu2409 4 жыл бұрын
Ø
@Zach-ul5fm
@Zach-ul5fm 3 жыл бұрын
Definitely one of the most enlightening videos out there on the technical aspects of climbing shoes
@LittleMur410
@LittleMur410 4 жыл бұрын
Love this style of content Magnus, congrats
@bookiecousin
@bookiecousin 4 жыл бұрын
Please show us the features of the shoe that you are talking about. For example shots of the stitching on the inside of the shoe as you say "look at the shoe from inside out", and the way the holes stretch differently with different tension. Thank you for the great quality videos you always put out!
@lsg546
@lsg546 4 жыл бұрын
Just in time, really useful to me as I want to buy my first shoe the next few weeks or so, thank you so much Magnus!
@kajetanmlynarczyk3345
@kajetanmlynarczyk3345 4 жыл бұрын
Same
@MrMosherMosher
@MrMosherMosher 4 жыл бұрын
Which one will it be?
@paullegloan1502
@paullegloan1502 4 жыл бұрын
Loved the cuts from the shop to the crag! Really well made video Magnus.
@lolaharwood4702
@lolaharwood4702 4 жыл бұрын
I climbed my first ever v7 yesterday! I love my scarpa instinct vs, really good intermediate/ expert shoe, not too stiff but keep their shape and the rubber lasts long enough, but i resurface mine about once every year
@D4NKN4
@D4NKN4 Жыл бұрын
Have you ever tried the VSR or are they too soft?
@lolaharwood4702
@lolaharwood4702 Жыл бұрын
@@D4NKN4 gosh this takes me back, I was only 14 when i wrote this! Yeah, i have tried the vs-r quite a few times, but it always felt tighter over the bridge of my foot no matter what size I tried, i think they're too "low volume " for my feet
@LoganCralle
@LoganCralle Жыл бұрын
Alternate Title: Magnus learns to wash his shoes in a conversation that is way too in depth for him 😂😂
@ZeroSight55
@ZeroSight55 4 жыл бұрын
Always love your videos, and for sure needed some tips for the next pair of shoes
@sevs802
@sevs802 4 жыл бұрын
Best climbing shoe video I’ve seen. Thanks for setting up that interview!!
@jacksonianc
@jacksonianc 2 жыл бұрын
Great information here-I'm about to buy my second pair of climbing shoes and I'm so glad that I watched this before I bought them!
@danielfrandson487
@danielfrandson487 4 жыл бұрын
So cool, man! You are such an inspiration to your fellow climbers!
@valerieluquette4909
@valerieluquette4909 4 жыл бұрын
Most useful climbing shoe video Ive ssen in a while! Also it is great seeing you climbing outdoors Magnus !
@abigailandjamie9773
@abigailandjamie9773 4 жыл бұрын
Great content Magnus! And thanks to Heinz and Nathan for sharing their wealth of knowledge.
@xaaronboswahlx
@xaaronboswahlx 4 жыл бұрын
This is very helpful - thanks for the detailed explanation of climbing shoe construction, sizing, etc.
@DekarNL
@DekarNL 4 жыл бұрын
Really enjoyed these camera shots. Great stuff.
@bizmonkey007
@bizmonkey007 3 жыл бұрын
I just upgraded from my Tarantulaces to the Scarpa Veloce. The difference is enormous, in terms of comfort, stickiness and especially sensitivity. I definitely think a sensitive shoe is better for learning proper footwork vs the stiff neutral ones recommended to beginners.
@HiImBQ
@HiImBQ Жыл бұрын
Agreed. Started with Scarpa Origin... Very stiff... Then Veloce... Like day and night.
@marioknowsitsgod1506
@marioknowsitsgod1506 Жыл бұрын
@@HiImBQ thanks for that
@bilaltahir9978
@bilaltahir9978 Жыл бұрын
Do you think the Scarpa veloce would be a good beginner shoe for me as my first shoe after using rental shoes?
@arielbadw1368
@arielbadw1368 7 ай бұрын
​​@@bilaltahir9978yes, it's not aggressive, you could still use it as a side pair if needed after buying other shoes
@flecks_piano
@flecks_piano 4 жыл бұрын
The Vapor V are the ones I'm rolling with too! Such a great pair.
@za8002fsr
@za8002fsr 4 жыл бұрын
Magnus can you demo and talk about the whole ‘edge-less’ shoe concept in a future video? Your channel is the spice!
@jonahhusak1037
@jonahhusak1037 4 жыл бұрын
I own a pair of futura's ( on my second) so I'll chime in. They're incredibly soft and allow you to both edge and smear on tiny holds HOWEVER, the suck beyond compare in crack and pocket climbing due to the lack of the toe point/rigid sole.
@jarlefreese8266
@jarlefreese8266 5 ай бұрын
7:06 that eye contact was cilling Magnus 😂
@N3mdraz
@N3mdraz 3 жыл бұрын
Nathan can explain everything so well, really interesting to watch in combination with Heinz who makes shoes. Unfortunately i just bought my first climbing shoes this week, before i came upon this video :)
@caterina798
@caterina798 4 жыл бұрын
This definitely has to have taken place in Arco or Pietramurata! Thanks for the useful tips and insights Magnus! I whish I knew you were coming, I literally live 10 min away!! (Trentino, Italy)
@HelplmAlive
@HelplmAlive 4 жыл бұрын
This was great. I also size my Dragos down 2 EU sizes. But it makes sense that if they're too tight then you take away the advantage of soft shoes.
@Jagknorr
@Jagknorr 4 жыл бұрын
I went from some $50 Evolv starter shoe to La Sportiva Katanas. What a difference! And the Katanas were/are still very comfortable! Can wear for hours and help foot precision and confidence immensely. But now im looking for something else super specific for bouldering. We don’t have climbing stores like you guys.
@smoKing831
@smoKing831 4 жыл бұрын
Found you through juji from the start. Always refreshing to hear and watch u magnus
@nikdonayre
@nikdonayre 4 жыл бұрын
Wow! This video opened my eyes to how climbing shoes should be interpreted. I really loved the thorough explanation about how to find the best shoe for my needed climb. I didn't know I needed this vid till now, Thanks Magnus 👍❤
@Chitario
@Chitario 3 жыл бұрын
Wore my first shoes, a La Sportiva Mythos for 7 months, now my big toe is coming through so i got myself a pair of scarpa instinct vsr. Absolutely happy, and i might resole my old lasportivas since they are great for routes that require friction and doing slabs in the gym. It simply couldnt keep up with my increased overhang climbing and the small footholds on rock.
@kasperl9komma9
@kasperl9komma9 4 жыл бұрын
Very nice one. I would love to see some more climbing from Heinz. Love how he moves on the wall. It's also nice to get some insights about the passion which flows into the design of these shoes. Heinz, Nathan and Scarpa do really great job.
@yoshi8397
@yoshi8397 Жыл бұрын
I always come back to this video for the entertainment value and info, so it's honestly the best ad ever.
@SamWynne
@SamWynne 4 жыл бұрын
As a total beginner, I’d say start with cheaper shoes. I just got new shoes and it made feel like a million bucks on the wall, even though they made my feet hurt on the ground. Early on, climbing mileage is where improvement comes, and the best way to climb the most, is to climb comfortable.
@xFCB4EVERx
@xFCB4EVERx 4 жыл бұрын
Sam Wynne Texan Nerd la sportiva tarantula. Best beginner shoes in my opinion
@bionickchief
@bionickchief Жыл бұрын
there are performance shoes that are also comfortable,like scarpa veloce or ls katana velcro
@seandanielsen8311
@seandanielsen8311 4 жыл бұрын
I’ve been waiting for you to do a shoe video ! Thanks!
@camiladuquebaeza3694
@camiladuquebaeza3694 4 жыл бұрын
I bought my climbing shoes last year as a statement: I will climb again after my knee surgery and it's gonna be awesome!. Thanks for the video, it was great
@Starr68000
@Starr68000 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for addressing the question of mens vs womens shoes Magnus, I’ve been wondering whether it’s just marketing or not!
@lynngordon2364
@lynngordon2364 2 ай бұрын
Especially liked the climbing footage!
@watcher7793
@watcher7793 4 жыл бұрын
Perfect timing! Getting my first pair shortly dude. Love your videos magnus. From Australia.
@harrisons62
@harrisons62 4 жыл бұрын
Watcher 77 You climb in wa?
@watcher7793
@watcher7793 4 жыл бұрын
@@harrisons62 nah, the ACT
@zzzzz2582
@zzzzz2582 4 жыл бұрын
These last couple of videos have been some of my ABSOLUTE FAVOURITES Magnus! Love seeing you back on rock and talking with old school guys. I'd love to hear about differences between indoor and outdoor shoes too. I've got cheap, local brand shoes and they work better in the gym but when it comes down to actual rock Scarpa's are SO much better (Origin currently).
@asgerbahnsennielsen711
@asgerbahnsennielsen711 4 жыл бұрын
nice video! good to hear some from Hanz Wagner about climbing shoes in a relaxed setting
@HappyCarrotInc
@HappyCarrotInc 4 жыл бұрын
Comes out the day before I buy my first pair Thankyou Magnus🙌🏻
@maximizedoneG
@maximizedoneG 4 жыл бұрын
When I went bouldering first this year I hated the rental shoes. My feet hurt, I didn't feel what I was doing and to be honest, I was close to not try again after it didn't get better after 4-5 times. It's definitely good you cover this topic! A friend sent me to REI first, but I ended up getting shoes at Evolv (Kronos). Super happy with them for now and I'm climbing almost every week since then.
@JonasGustafsson
@JonasGustafsson 2 жыл бұрын
Det var ju
@Christian-nc4ho
@Christian-nc4ho 4 жыл бұрын
Yaaaaaaaaaas lead climbing video!!!
@Xenoxen34
@Xenoxen34 4 жыл бұрын
can confirm, the furia air is such a comfy shoe and overall pretty good
@oskarholberg2588
@oskarholberg2588 4 жыл бұрын
TY i was waiting on a video like this
@luftatmer
@luftatmer 4 жыл бұрын
thanks for the informative video! really appreciate it
@Tim_flips
@Tim_flips 4 жыл бұрын
I wish I had seen this video before I bought new shoes 3 days ago
@user-ih3jl9um6e
@user-ih3jl9um6e 4 жыл бұрын
I bought a new pari like 30 minutes ago
@idpanda6386
@idpanda6386 4 жыл бұрын
Last weekend for me 🤦‍♂️
@Drewzler
@Drewzler 4 жыл бұрын
I was going to do it in a few hours from now.
@rexhayabusa
@rexhayabusa 4 жыл бұрын
Same dude
@AlexMckillmore
@AlexMckillmore 4 жыл бұрын
What did you get? I'm holding out for the new Boosters
@lavente5253
@lavente5253 4 жыл бұрын
Longest Scarpa Advertisment i have ever seen
@j.l.5966
@j.l.5966 4 жыл бұрын
Lavente He’s sponsored by Scarpa after all. But in all fairness, other shoes were shown and given props to like the La Sportiva Testarossa and Magnus’s first pair of Black Diamonds. Also it doesn’t take away from the fact that this video was loaded with a lot of useful info in terms of getting that right shoe that works for you and the process that goes into designing a climbing shoe.
@jean-yvesyang5827
@jean-yvesyang5827 4 жыл бұрын
@@j.l.5966 5.10 too.
@lavente5253
@lavente5253 4 жыл бұрын
​@@j.l.5966 All those shoes from other brands are presented for just some seconds and only the negative aspects of the shoe gets mentioned. In my opinion this video doesn't help anyone finding the right shoe. Especially beginners who watch this video will get a way too tight shoe. Sorry but the shape of your foot definitely matters. You cannot squeeze a very wide foot into a narrow shoe without getting deformed foot over time. I really appreciate Magnus and Heinz Mariacher but in my opinion this video does not tell you the "truth" about climbing shoes.
@DavidSchilter
@DavidSchilter 4 жыл бұрын
Yup. Just like Ondra did a Sportiva video. It is hard to find shoe advice that isn't in some way biased...
@dayvhack9976
@dayvhack9976 4 жыл бұрын
@@lavente5253 Magnus does the same thing in this video...
@jasminecold370
@jasminecold370 4 жыл бұрын
Really love the new updates, nice to see what's new and going on😄😄
@meikib.7853
@meikib.7853 4 жыл бұрын
love it! thank you very much for this video - priceless information :-)
@jeffreak7968
@jeffreak7968 4 жыл бұрын
thank you so much for this video. i just started and was wondering what kind of shoe i will buy. now i know in what kind of direction it will go and for what i have to look for.
@sunshine-ek6bo
@sunshine-ek6bo 2 жыл бұрын
Love this video! So detailed and high quality! I started with the tarantulas and they are broken after two years. I need more pointed and curved ones now for overhang.
@miloplayz7474
@miloplayz7474 3 ай бұрын
Prob no point in replying, but it took 2 years to break in?😂😂😂
@camillakent4726
@camillakent4726 4 жыл бұрын
You released this a week to late! I just bought a pair of tenaya mastia and I love them and fit my foot perfectly. Still a great video keep it up magnus:)
@Drewzler
@Drewzler 4 жыл бұрын
join the club.
@fitbmx7744
@fitbmx7744 4 жыл бұрын
If I ever get a chance to climb and decide to continue and buy shoes I am defiantly watching this video again!
@Drinkyoghurt
@Drinkyoghurt 4 жыл бұрын
Scarpa shoes don’t fit my feet at all, but they work for many other people. I get the best fit out of Mad Rock Sharks, but they’re kinda stiff compared to others. The best smearing shoe I’ve had is the Maverink with a no-rand design, but it wore out the sole after 3 days of climbing outdoors. My go to overall comfy shoe is an oversized Miura VS. there’s just so many shoes out there for so many different climbs. I like my indoor shoes softer than my outdoor shoes (unless I’m bouldering). The whole shoe discussion has so many different aspects and you can’t just say one shoe is the best. That’s also why I have many different pairs, and I can recommend others to do the same. The initial investment is high, but you will always have a backup shoe when resoling and you can choose the shoe based on the climb.
@phoenix4193
@phoenix4193 4 жыл бұрын
i needed this vid so much wow
@nicolaine9924
@nicolaine9924 3 жыл бұрын
This is a kind of tutorial you wanna see when you are buying the first pair for sure. All companies making climbing shoes should make tutorial like this from every shoe they make.
@innocentiuslacrim2290
@innocentiuslacrim2290 4 жыл бұрын
This was really nice to see. That comment about "climbing in a skiing shoe" struck a chord after using for a few times the shoes that were available for everyone at the local bouldering place :-D I still liked the sport so maybe I should invest in shoes of my own to continue.
@rastaroumain
@rastaroumain 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for vid and advice. I think the rubber quality is a bit overlooked. You can get the best designed shoes, if they have poor rubber, it gets really frustrating. It can happen when you resole ( sometimes too rigid), or on new shoes ( usually too soft/falls appart). It is not true that all rubbers are equal. Also, my feeling is that there is a lack of consistency in the rubber you get from some brands, even though the shoe has the best design. Also the sizing is very different depending on the brand so you have to change size accordingly .
@RenM908
@RenM908 2 жыл бұрын
My beginner shoe is the scarpa helix and I’m quite happy with them. It’s a comfortable shoe. I’ve had them for two months and they are nice. They aren’t my favorite for bouldering but I love them for sport climbing since I’ve started getting outdoors more.
@borneo4x4
@borneo4x4 4 жыл бұрын
Very informative video and nice to see Heinz Mariacher a great shoe designer in person. Oh, where's your Japan videos?
@RippDrive
@RippDrive 4 жыл бұрын
Whatever fits. Matters so much more than anything else.
@ironman4life89
@ironman4life89 4 жыл бұрын
In my experience, so much this (especially when thinking about the shape of your foot)
@LiiMuRi
@LiiMuRi 4 жыл бұрын
I use La Sportiva Katana laces pretty much for everything, it's a pretty nice overall shoe. But I think I'll take a look at that Furia Air. I've been looking for a very soft shoe for some different types of routes
@ericvaughn1984
@ericvaughn1984 10 ай бұрын
Bought some Scarpa vapors today. First climbing session was good. Look forward to breaking them in.
@wesleyverity7310
@wesleyverity7310 6 ай бұрын
I do t care what’s it’s about, watching experienced people talk about a subject they love is fascinating
@khuang3563
@khuang3563 4 жыл бұрын
This is actually a really good episode, hearing insights from expert shoe designer themselves. Too bad it doesn't get more viewing. The title doesn't do it's justice.
@RealSalica
@RealSalica 2 жыл бұрын
Those 2 men are the wisdom and knowledge , they have so much to teach .I
@GameTimeWhy
@GameTimeWhy 4 жыл бұрын
Wish I had this video a year ago. The shoes I got were not great. Thanks for the information Magnus!
@snajperWkrzaku
@snajperWkrzaku 4 жыл бұрын
You should post more of you onsighting things in the future. It's interesting to watch for me because 7c is something that physically is at my max but technically I feel like I dont know what I'm doing and watching you shoot for a different hold that I thought you gonna go for makes me wonder.
@sijon7
@sijon7 4 жыл бұрын
BEST Climbing shoe video ever.
@MrSchafonator
@MrSchafonator 4 жыл бұрын
yesterday scarpa did a demo tour in my home gym, so i was able to try out alot of diffrent shoes in my gym. taht was pretty cool. but i still stick to my way to large beginner slippers. :D
@worldsaways717
@worldsaways717 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this great wealth of info on climbing shoes. I was just wondering, why was the Instinct not mentioned at all? I would have loved to hear more about it specifically. Still, great video, and now my lust for a pair of Dragos is higher than ever =)
@cole3848
@cole3848 4 жыл бұрын
I used to have the maestro and that's a very accurate description. You can just pop right off the wall whenever.
@norwegerstyle
@norwegerstyle 4 жыл бұрын
intresting video :D good too now more about climbing shoes
@joecroson8053
@joecroson8053 4 жыл бұрын
I wish there were more climbing stores like that in the US 😕
@Jagknorr
@Jagknorr 4 жыл бұрын
Seriously! The only thing around me is an Eastern Mountain Sport and they have like 5 pairs of super cheap shoes to pick from : / Finally drove to a bigger shop 2 states away and got to try on some La Sportivas though! Lol
@N.aattee
@N.aattee 4 жыл бұрын
Rock and ice in the gunks
@secret5.
@secret5. 4 жыл бұрын
Joe Croson Our gym is very good about people trying on multiple shoes and climbing in them to see how they feel.
@savannahseaver4852
@savannahseaver4852 4 жыл бұрын
*cries in Floridian*
@CNW21
@CNW21 4 жыл бұрын
Tell Heinz that scarpa needs to start making size 46 shoes. So many Scarpa's I want to use but they all max out at 45 which is too small for my foot. Furia Air was the coolest shoe i've worn but I had to return because my big toe was pushing out significantly over the front soul of the shoe.
@philippwiest3801
@philippwiest3801 4 жыл бұрын
A lot of shoes are available until 50...
@Lucas-fp9zd
@Lucas-fp9zd 3 жыл бұрын
@@philippwiest3801 Scarpa doesn't make their high end stuff past 45 (drago, chimera, booster, etc)
@neutraljump
@neutraljump 4 жыл бұрын
This was a surprisingly interesting video man! I destroyed my ankle some years back, after topping a problem, and didn't find the motivation to start over as a young buck after losing most of my strength as I healed. I got back into climbing a year ago, looking back, my climbing years were the happiest of my life. Need new shoes now. Thanks for this. Also! Thanks for the motivation man. My climbing partner moved away,and I've found it difficult to go to the gym alone. I decided to try to find motivation from youtube, and I found you. Greetings from Finland.
@stitch3163
@stitch3163 3 жыл бұрын
Apologize for the late comment, but this was a truly insightful video. Heinz is a legend. Recommend an updated video for 2022 model shoes later this year.
@stitch3163
@stitch3163 3 жыл бұрын
Addendum: I wore EB’s back in the 80’s. Great crack shoes, but then that was all there was back then. Climbing shoes have come a really long way from the days when shoe makers would buy spent racing car tires to harvest the rubber.
@C0mpl3xm1nds
@C0mpl3xm1nds 7 ай бұрын
This is a great video especially for someone who recently got into climbing a little over 3 months ago. I've already purchased my first pair of shoes and I'm definitely going to be going ahead and purchasing a new pair of shoes soon cause I bought stiff shoes first with laces and now i'm curious how a softer shoes will work for me on large walls and bouldering. My only concern is understanding the quality of the shoe more especially down the road when they get older. But great video magnus!!
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