We are glad you enjoyed it!

Pye is a masterful teacher!

We love ya back!

Nope. Not only can you see the mic, and you can hear the cars driving by, and the wind sound, it’s very obviously not ADR/voiceover - you can see just by watching that it’s original audio. This is a combination of a) the right high end microphone AND receiving equipment (you can’t cheap-out on either), and b) proper audio treatment & cleanup as needed in post production, with the right software when needed. Use the right equipment and the right techniques, and treat the material properly in post, and this is what happens.

How does the saying go... There are a thousand ways to "cuddle" a cat. Something like that.

You could if you wanted to use say for example a lower f/stop. It's definitely another way to do it.

Glad you enjoyed it

It is nice to see how one can achieve a lot of different looks, they they don't always have to be the dark and dramatic shots. Flash can even be used to balance with ambient and make your awesome shots even better! Thanks for commenting @marclabro

You bet!

Although I am not Pye, I will answer why I tend to use manual flash and not TTL in this kind of setting (off-camera flash in an outdoor setting). Sometimes TTL can be a little unpredictable (who knows, maybe TTL flash is very consistent now with certain flash companies lol). Here is an example... I may be happy with one picture using TTL, the amount of power I used in it, but I would hate if I was happy with my first shot but then the following 5-10 images were a little over exposed, and some underexposed, thinking I exposed my shot correctly with the flash that I used the first time. I would rather have consistent amount of flash coming out every single time and let me make the adjustments when needed. I personally have an idea how much power I need to use with different lighting situations. An issue I could see happening is... I am shooting a person head on, got the exposure correct, my camera exposure meter in the middle etc... but then once I move the camera more down and point my camera up, more of the sky is showing, so my camera meter may change a lot, and my flash TTL auto setting may also change a lot because it's using TTL. I could see TTL coming in handy on a sunny day with clouds coming in and out of the scene, and yes-it's probably faster to work with because it it's automatically adjusting the flash power, but sometimes people want full control and more consistent results, so they use manual. You will most likely see a lot of photographers that have been around for a while use manual flashes because they are generally cheaper and been out since forever. I use TTL when I am using my flash on top of my camera and shooting events. Of course I use flash compensation depending if I am bouncing my flash or not.

yes. bad product placement. the point of the mag sphere is to bounce some light off axis for use inside with white walls to give you both a directional light as well as ambient fill with only one strobe. outside it does nothing other than reduce your power output since there aren't any surfaces to bounce the light off of

You are correct that the best subtle use of flash outside is to Brigit in from the same side as the sun - it will blend more naturally and look less 'lit' that way...

Yes you’d just need an ND filter to keep your shutter speed at your flash sync speed

@@mattfetts Thanks! Can you increase f-stop and thereby avoid using an ND filter?

@@randyhurlburt absolutely. An ND filter is primarily used to maintain a low shutter speed and a large aperture. If your depth of field is not of interest, increase the f-stop and avoid the ND

Thanks @mattfetts for helping out. Glad you enjoyed the video @randyhurlburt

yes

Hugh Sync Speed. it's a setting on your flash that allows for higher shutter speeds to be used.

It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. You are correct, diffusion panels on a softbox diffuse a small light to make it bigger (which creates soft light) and omni-directional diffusers simply spread light in all directions to bounce off of things (indoors only). The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere. He also mentioned less specularity in the video which is in fact false. Specularity is nothing more than a total reflection of the light source. The more reflective the surface and the brighter the source, the more specularity you get no matter what modifier you have. It is only controlled by power output, distance, how matte the surface is, and knowledge of the inverse square law. You can have a softbox be specular and a silver umbrella have hardly no specularity. It is all about knowing what you're doing.

@@JEDINITE30You're right, except in the parts where you're wrong, ie. the magsphere doing nothing outdoors. It does when it's pointed towards the subject, as in this video, try it for yourself. Or search for youtube videos on this, there are plenty.

@@viezure10 I have, I own a few of em. And I have done tests. You can get the same shadows, highlights, look, everything, with or without it. It is all a matter of settings. Do you know the actual scientific reason why soft shadows come from large light sources?

Speedlights bare and at a reasonable distance can overpower the sun in this situation. But you are correct, the magsphere only reduces the output. It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere.

@@JEDINITE30 Exactly my thoughts ! I don't see why you'd put a piece of Tupperware on your flash :-). I love my Godox V1 but it's only useful indoors where there is not a lot of light (for instance wedding parties). Outdoors I'd use the AD200 or AD400.

@@wanneske1969 exactly! For those that only have a speed light, they can make it work, but it will be more difficult and the recycle times will be long. Putting an unnecessary stoploss modifier on the front is counterproductive.

There are benefits to using modifiers, which Pye has covered in other videos. Definitely check out the video about using each of the MagMod modifiers on the same model to see the results of using the different modifiers, or even bare flash.

No. All it does here is further reduce the flash power. (which you can do many other ways) (modifiers like that can be very useful indoors and near walls, but not so much in open spaces)

It's an awesome acronym to think about when on shoots.

😂 c’est quand même plutôt facile à comprendre non ? 😂

The cool part is there is often multiple ways to get things done. Advantages and disadvantages to each.

what da phuc are you talking about

*profes bro*@@hubert2191

Sounds delish! I can get behind that. :)