Cheers Dan, very nice of you to comment.

Hi Michael, apologies for my late response. Thanks for your very kind comments, good luck with your vdesign. Regards ... David

Thanks Graham, glad you liked it. ... David

Hi David, thanks for your kind comments, glad you liked the video and good luck with yours ... David

Thanks, glad to help - good luck with your build : David

Thanks Paul.

Hi Roger, thanks very much. I have now removed my turntable to make room for more scenery. It worked fine, but i had other ideas for the space. Good luck if you go ahead and make one. Appreciate your comments - David

Thanks Leonardo - 👍👍👍

You are welcome John, and thanks ... David

Nice to hear about your future retirement project, it sounds terrific. The turntable sounds challenging. I am glad you found my video(s) interesting and If you feel I can help in any way please contact me again. I do not profess to be a great expert but sharing experiences and information is half the fun of our great hobby. I wish you well with your build. Regards ... David

Thanks Fred. Since the follow up video I have removed the bearings. There is no load on the outer ring, it is only cosmetic so I felt the bearings were adding a drag to the inner ring. It works better with the bearings removed. Good luck with your build. ... David

David Hyde ....hi David it’s been a long in the planning but I’ve finally made a start on the turntable...just need a bit more info on the electrical connectors...mine will not be motorised...and only in a slight recess....in anticipation...fred

I am very 'old school' jim, I like to get things 'right'. They are far from professional but quality is important, and I do take time making each video, thanks again. Regards, David

I'm investigating diy railroad layouts and found a great resource at Jareks Hobby Club (google it if you are interested)

Hi Alan. I drilled & countersunk 1 additional hole on the inner circle, directly opposite one of the pre-drilled holes already in it. I was then able to screw the wooden beam across the inner circle. I bought a radio knob with a brass insert & grub screw. This will fit securely on the motor shaft. I then cut out a section in the centre of the wooden beam to house the radio knob. With the wooden beam attached to the inner ring, attach the radio knob to the motor shaft (secured by the grub screw). Making sure everything was as centrally placed as possible, I used some epoxy putty to secure the radio knob to the centre of the wooden beam. Hope this is clear. The motor is secured to the turntable baseboard from underneath. Neither the inner or outer circles of the lazy susan is fixed in place. This allows the turntable to 'flex' a little bit If you are a fraction out in your centering. You need to be pretty close though else the rails wont line up. I did eventually remove all the ball bearings Part #2 near the end). At slow speads the results were smoother. I am still using it with the bearings removed. Hope this has answered your question. Good luck with the build. Love to here about progress, especially if you come up with any improvemrnts. Regards, David

Many thanks for your kind comment. Space is limited on my layout so, at least for the time being, I have removed my turntable. It worked fine but I decided to use the space for an extra goods siding and scenery. Thanks again for your interest - David

Glad you think so, thanks for the comment ... David

Hi Geoffrey, glad you came across my videos and I am pleased you like them. Ah yes, my facebook page. I forgot this was on there. I am not a big fan of FB I am afraid, and I was not finding the time to update the Deresley page. Hope you have not bought a motor yet. I dismantled my turntable when I re-designed my goods operation and I would be pleased to send you the motor and wiring instructions. My email address is dahyde@aol.com. Please contact me anyway for the wiring instructions - thanks again ... David

No Problem Richard. I can't attach photos (But you have seen the motor on the video) I have just copied my facebook post (below) which has the specs. - Hope this is useful in your ebay search - David High Torque Turbo Worm Geared Motor DC 12V Motor 2-160RPM Reversible JGY370 TH I fitted a DCC decoder and set it up to control the speed, as if it were a loco, on my controller Specification: Material:Metal Voltage: DC 12V Rotating Speed: 2/6/10/18/40/160RPM Features: The motor is Gear DC motor with micro-turbine worm, you can change the wiring-connection to change motor rotation. 1. Turbo worm geared motor with self-lock, that is, in the case of motor without electric, the output axis is fixed, self-lock. 2. The reducer output shaft arranged vertically with the motor shaft, whole motor output shaft relatively-short than general gear motor, widely used to be installed the dimensions requirements strictly occasion. Application: open the window, door, Mini winch. ect.

Hi Richard. Yes I have heard with the problems of the expo motor. Had a Hornby turntable for a very short time and that made a racket too. I bought mine from ebay, its is all metal and it is cheap - well under £10 UK. What I have just done is posted full details on my Deresley facebook page with a couple of photos, this will give you all the information and specs you need. I added a spare DCC decoder and controlled it through Railmaster. Deresley facebook link : facebook.com/Deresley Thanks for your interest - David

Hi Richard, you're welcome. The decoder was just the basic Hornby R8249. I would imagine any similar would do. On Railmaster just treat it as if it were a locomotive, allocate it a identification number (I used 99). You will have the option of cruise & shunt speeds I just set the shunt speed the speed I felt looked right for the turntable you will also have to allocate a cruise speed. Obviously I named the 'locomotive' TURNTABLE. With Railmaster you can rotate the turntable in either direction and control the speed. I had to stop it when it reached its turn limits. Takes a bit of getting used to but it worked fine. Hope this helps - David

Hi John, many thanks for your comment and question. There are two metal rings that bake up the lazy Susan. The outer ring remains visible so it will need painting - as will the vertical 'showing' edge of the inner ring. The plastic circular rail comes with the Dapol kit and this is simply glued to the top surface of the inner ring - (araldite or similar). Hope this is O.K. Keep safe ... David

@@davidhyde4329 Thanks for a swift reply, David. I’ve bought some metal primer and painted the “tops” of the aluminium rings in preparation. I found an original Airfix kit at an exhibition late last year, but sadly there was no circular rail so I may leave out this element OR buy a fresh kit. As for the vertical edge I have successfully constructed a curved card wall insert and papered it with a suitable building paper including wall capping folded over at the top. I’ll send you a photo if I can. Keep safe and well, John.

@@johnthewlis8524 Well done John, shame about the circular rail. It was made up from segments in the Dapol kit. Curved wall using building papers is a great idea. Love to see a photo when you have finished it. Good luck ... David

Thanks Robbie, appreciate the comment 👍👍👍

Hi Richard, no problem. Good point, no I didn't. I powered the TT motor through the dcc decoder. I took the track power and connected it directly to the red & black wires on the decoder, and than connected the orange and grey wires on the decoder to the TT motor. When you select the TT in Railmaster the dcc ID will connect to the decoder and, hey presto, you have your turntable under the control of Railmaster. To put it another way, normally the track power gets to the decoder through wheels & pickups. The TT does not have wheels so you need to connect it directly to its motor. Just get back to me if this is still unclear - David

Hi Richard - no, I have just viewed the clip & the understanding of the circuit is a bit confusing. The only power supply needed (from the main track connections) comes in at the socket, from which there are a Red & Black wire that lead to the tag strip. The tag strip has 4 connectors. The Red & Black wires are connected to to top 2 connectors on the left (as viewed). Two bridging wires are taken from these connectors to the bottom 2 (as viewed) - keep all these input connections on the left of the tags (for simplicity). What has now happened is that the single power input from the track has been divided into 2 separate inputs. Connect the top Red & Black to the TURNTABLE TRACK (via the contact posts so the loco can move) and connect the bottom Red & Black to the Red & Black wires on the decoder. Finally connect the Grey & Orange wires from the decoder to the TURNTABLE MOTOR. When you switch on your layout, with a new decoder, your Turntable will default to 03. Go ahead and set it up in Railmaster as if it were a loco. My wires colours may not have been as I have described which doesn't help ! & there is a hole through which the wires pass -close to the tag - strip which doesn't help either. If you have access to facebook (perhaps a friend) I can put a wiring diagram there if you need further clarification. Good luck - David

Hi Alan, sorry, I misunderstood. I used a 10 minute epoxy glue. I it is only cosmetic so I guess you could use PVA, or super glue.. You are not a pain, I appreciate your interest. Regards, David

Always will try to help people save money.Silicone.If you look in buiders skips.There is always some left in the nozzle.Enough for a turn table. leave overnight.Not painters cork.

Thanks for subscribing. I could not run cables through the centre as I opted to turn the table directly via a geared motor. The shaft from the gearbox rotated up through the centre. I decided to use passing contacts to switch polarity and I found this easier to set up above the turntable than below it. As for the name board - the Nene Valley Railway is just up the A1 from me and they have a turntable that looks vaguely similar to mine and had this name plaque on it. I photographed it then, estimating its size, I scaled it and produced a copy using Photoshop (elements 7). It was just a case then of printing it and fixing it on a scrap of pasticard. Regards - David

Not exact centre,enough to clear the gear box.When in its position either side..As long as its not showing from above.and the cable holes as big as possible.and enough slack on the cable.Also another way is to drill cable hole at each end of turn table underneath loco ramp with enough slack on cable underneath .Your turntable guide is glued .you just have to remember to turn back the way it came every so often to stop twisting of the wire.

Second way .you would have to redesign the base to work.

Exactly so - perhaps I will look at this again in the future. I am happy with my decision thus far. Thanks for your interest, I appreciate your views - David

Thanks for the reply.The other thing that you said about helping it to line up easier.There are 3mm cube neo magnets..I think if you put one on each inside of rail.Very small and easy to paint the top thats showing ,to camourflage.Maybe both ends would be to strong.but could try one end first.The problem with the neo magnets they are about £8 for 50.But they are also good for uncoupling.So not wasted

Thanks Allan. Now I am adding sound to some locos I will take another look at this - there''s always something I suppose but that's what keeps it interesting. Thanks again ... David

Hi Bobby, many thanks for your interest. I enjoyed the challenge of making the turntable. I used it with some confidence having got used to judging the rail positions by eye. The connections to track worked very well. I did eventually start to buy locos with sound but, by then, I decided I wanted more scenic areas for photography so I never resolved the lack of connection while the turntable was operating. Small towns, like Deresley, would not have had a turntable, so I altered my method of operating my goods and passenger services so I did not need one. Recent videos show some goods operations without the turntable. When this heatwave cools a bit I will produce a passenger service video - its too hot in my railway room!! .. David

O.K. Richard, can't sort it today but I will put the wiring diagram on my facebook page 'Deresley' tomorrow. Hopefully it will clarify everything for you - David

Nice one Richard. I am not a great user of facebook but my Deresley page is useful from time to time - David

Thanks Tony, much appreciated. I bought a 12in (300mm) lazy Susan ring so I cut the baseboard a little over this to allow for the wall thickness, and, of course the Peco turntable. Hope this helps - David

Sure Tony, email contact : dahyde@aol.com

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