All your videos are a blessing for a beginner like me, thanks a lot!

Love the straight forward, methodological approach you have.

I gotta tell you Chad, your NINA videos are GREAT. Thank you VERY MUCH (Patrick of Savannah)

Finally got a mini computer. Can’t wait to get it set up and when I get some clear skies put it to use. Thanks again for yet another informative video.

Great run through on the flats wizard. Very helpful

Great tutorial, beautifully explained! Keep this good stuff on NINA Chad! You help a lot. Thanks

Another excellent NINA tutorial..

Thanks for the video and as always awesome information. Now I know what it means when I get those stoppages and what to adjust. Thanks again for making another great video, Next I expect to see one on sky flats :) LOL

Another great video, keep them coming.

Awesome as always chad!!.. I've read in places that you should probably take flats longer than 1 second, apparently it takes away the refresh rate of the light panel. i try and aim for about 2.5 seconds each for mine.. Keep up the videos!

Thanks Chad - rock solid as ever. I'm curious about the T-shirt - on for the tablet and not for the panel.

Thank you

Another great video! I'd be curious to learn about the "metal cable like" structure you are using underneath the accessory tray on the EQ6-R

I use the manual version of ArtSky panel and really like it. NINA's flat wizard if just a wonder. One thing of note is there is an issue with unlinear response in the ZWO cameras if the exposure time is 1sec or less. I have mine setup configured for a minimum of 2 seconds to stay ouit of the trouble area. Not usre about Cloudy Nights but there is a long running discussion on the issue on Astrobin's forums along with some testing done. I odn't remember for certain (I'd have to go back to the discussion on Astrobin) but I believe the 294MC/MM was more susceptible to this issue.

Great tutorial, I was hoping you would make one about the Flat Wizard. Thank you. I was wondering if there was a way to change the file location so that I could create folders with filter name instead of exposure times?

Hi Chad. Your videos are great. They're really helping me along quickly switching from ASI air pro to NINA. Question for you: I saw you use Pixinsight for processing. I took my flats and flat darks for my 294MM tonight, but when I try to bring them into WBPP in pixinsight, it brings them in as flats. I tried adding them directly to the darks, but it groups them all (because they are so close in exp time). From what I can tell, it may be because the imagetype field is DARKFLAT. Just wondering if you use WBPP and if so, how you handle this. Much appreciated!

what about focus? shame there is no input for filter af position from the log!

I have a flat panel (not ascom connected) on my EDGE HD 8. I tune the brightness by a manual rotating button on the flattener. So I choose a constant brightness according to what NINA tells me is suitable according to Histogram mean target. Should I use dynamic brightness or leave it to dynamic exposure?

I have been using the Flat Wizzard for 2 or three years now, and was using 50% and my Samsung Tablet for illumination, I think I will try the 35% and see if it gives me better results. One question I do have is that when I select slew to Zenith the ra is an hour or two west of Zenith. And if I go east it is off by maybe an hour. Any idea what is going on with that?

Chad, nice tutorial thank you. Question, do you feel that the filter offsets for the focus should also be added to the process?

Hi Chad. Another great video, thank you. I wanted to ask, how do you connect your Artsky Flat Field generator via USB? I have one here and see no USB plug interface anywhere!

Very nice video as always. A question: why is it necessary/desirable to take separate flats for all filters, especially if they have the same clear aperture so vignetting doesn't change? For NB filters I could see that maybe there is an angular dependence that makes a difference, but for RGB vs. L? Could there be differences in how the filters get positioned with the wheel? Any thoughts welcome as I would rather not run through all seven filters unless I have to...

Hi Chad following your way to do Flat Wizard method. However for some reason sending my scope to the zenith it does not slew my scope to a vertical position. I have tried my scope on its Home Position (Polaris) and horizontal position for the scope I have tried both for East and West side of the pier. But it arrives at a position of RA 17 33 14 Dec54 59 12 Altitude 89 09 03 Azimuth89 35 53 Site latitude is 54 59 23 Site longitude is 01 32 41 and the Epoch for my scope is J2000. Can you give me any pointers on this. I think your video tutorials are a great help but I am a new learner and just moved with Altair OSC cameras and moving on to use Nina so its a big learning hill for me to pick up. Cheers Chas

Hi, why dont you put the brightnes of the flat panel to eg. 90% and then run the Dynamic Exposure flat wizard with a max. time of 2 sec. Once you find the exposure times (all

Hi Chad, I have a Pegasus Astro Flat Master 250 and I hate it!. Your I-Pad saturated the output at 2 seconds and I can't get my Flatmaster 250 to saturate after 60 seconds. Not even close. When I run the Flat Wizard many times it tells me the Flat Master 250 is too dim. And to increase the brightness. I've got it set at 190 out of 220 possible. Sometimes it works and the flats take about 27 seconds per flat. But this morning it was real cold. 16F and it just wouldn't work. Always too dim. No matter what I did or what I changed. I've got my minimum exposure time set to around .2 seconds and my max at 120 seconds. And this morning, it did try to work, but with an individual exposure of about 100 seconds. I have an OPT L-Extreme filter but it doesn't really impact the outcome. So I'm just not sure if the cold morning is ruining everything or what. I have the Flatmaster 250 on Super Boost too. For the price I feel I've been ripped off. Am I doing something wrong? ;o(

Hello, Patriot Astro great video, The question I have is in relation to the mean target, I have seen many people and therefore myself using 50%. Obviously, 35% will make the time shorter but was that the reason you went to 35 instead of 50? Or how do you arrive at 35%

Hi Chad, thank you for your excellent videos. I have a question for you: i've got a Celestron C8 XLT and when i make flats my histogram (using Asistudio only to visualize histogram) is very widened, it is not as narrow as it appears to you with your refractor. In Nina the histogram has 2 peaks and not 1 like in yours. Is this given by the type of optics that changes?

Hi Chad. I know it's not specifically flats related, but I have a strange problem with my 294mm that I'm hoping you'd be willing to help me troubleshoot. My darks calibrate out the sensor's amp glow for my Ha subs, but not for my Oiii or Sii subs. I don't know how that's possible since the subs were taken on the same night with the same camera temp, gain, and offset settings. I found that when I multiply the master dark by 1.75 (or so), then subtract that from the Oiii and Sii subs, that more or less neutralizes the amp glow. I've asked a couple astro communities on discord and no one had any ideas. I'd very much apprciate any help/suggestions you'd be willing to offer!

I have a H-alpha modified Canon T6i. Tried the flat wizard. Targeted 30% with 10% tolerance. When I open flats in Photoshop histogram is way past 50%. Flat Wizard exposure time longer than exposure APT calculated. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Using 1.10 (beta).

The question I have…does it really matter to take the flats at the same temp as the lights? I have see videos where the flats and the dark-flats are taken inside for example the following day.

Hi Chad. I like NINA but this I hate this (not your videos). First there are too many parameters to set. Eg do we really need to set the target ADU for every filter ? Also it would be better to use simple linearity to get from one test exposure to the next ? Eg Tnext=Tlast*(ADUtarget/ADUmeasured). This is what you would do by hand with a calculator, rather than adding incremenents. This is how Kstars autoflat/darkflat works. Eg you set a target ADU and tolerance (these apply to all filters and can be set once and for all in global options), the number of frames and the initial exposure to 1 second for each filter. 3-4 iterations then gives correct exposure in 99.9% of cases even when 1 second initial value is grossly inaccurate.

y are the wizard!!!!

Flats should not be 0.01 sec. Minimum 0.5 sec.