Make Your Heel Hooks Work!

Рет қаралды 54,203

Movement for Climbers

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 46

@raymondfoo9045 2 жыл бұрын

One more advice when using toe and heel hook besides actively pulling, is you also have to engage your core.

@ArtanisKizrath 2 жыл бұрын

Agreed. Engaging the core is one of the commonly overlooked aspect of climbing. In order for proper footwork to help you climb, you need to engage the core since it connects the arms with the legs.

@jrblackify Жыл бұрын

One thing I'd add: the toe-up heel hook uses hamstring almost entirely and pulling a hamstring means a lonnng rehab. But using the side heel hook places a lot of force on the outside of your knee (and some force on your hip flexor) which can be even more injury prone. I know V12 climbers who've blown a knee on relatively easy heel hooks (in fact, Jesse Grupper just did this). So my advice: work up slowly, playing with position and limited pull on the heel for a few sessions before gradually increasing how hard you pull with the heel. A lot of moves don't require pulling much at all, just stabilizing off the heel to move a hand. :)

@afailable 2 жыл бұрын

I found the other day that on an overhang route engaging the heel hook through the toe into the roof through a rotation of the foot gave me way more stability and helped me send the climb. That small bit of info also helped another climber send. I think it really relates to the idea that you get more tension when you rotate the foot rather than relying on hamstring only. This can be applied to rotating inwards if you have a surface to press your toe against.

@JesseLira 2 жыл бұрын

Great video, now I know why certain heel hooks feel so much harder - been using the back of the heel. Would love see one of these on toe hooks. I have a really hard time keeping a toe hook.

@mateusz3394 2 жыл бұрын

One of the best climbing content there is! Keep it up :)

@michaelcao5883 2 жыл бұрын

Wow I never thought to use the outer heel till now.

@mr.social4360 Жыл бұрын

Damn, You explain things so accurately - detail by detail. thanks a lot !

@whelmking6497 2 жыл бұрын

So well thought out and communicated. Very useful!

@abstractionalpha5860 2 жыл бұрын

I've just started projecting a climb with a heel hook - impeccable timing. Thanks!

@Rollins-ek3li 2 жыл бұрын

In my opinion your one of the best resources for improving climbing technique !

@alexnunez4019 Жыл бұрын

Love revisiting your videos as I forget some stuff lol

@limo-swine6537 2 жыл бұрын

The toes outward position feels very sketchy to me. After seeing Tom Whitaker tear his LCL on Magnus' channel, I feel very very reluctant to use the toe out method. *Pete Whitaker. Sorry got confused with the names.

@oliveneuendorf6182 2 жыл бұрын

*Pete unless Tom Randall recently married Pete and changed his last name 😂

@bios546 2 жыл бұрын

I got injured the same way lol... took me 2-3mo to heal

@johnalexander9887 2 жыл бұрын

Same, i blew out my MCL 10 years ago and toes out still gives me a shudder when i have to trust it

@josearayaalvarado2535 Жыл бұрын

Tip N°3: Get those scarpa instinct vs, killer heel hooks guaranteed 🔥 Great vid!

@Chrishtatu 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for taking the times to make these. Some of the best climbing tutorials on KZfaq, keep up the great work!

@ChiibiStyle 2 жыл бұрын

Please do one on toe hooks, they are my absolute bane.

@sashascarwash 2 жыл бұрын

I really like your style of videos

@languagefreeassangeteacher5338 Жыл бұрын

Great: Put your mind in your heel!

@lobi8730 2 жыл бұрын

I’m working on the orange v6 right now!!! It’s funky but this is super helpful!!!

@adventureawaits6923 2 жыл бұрын

Your videos are the dopesauce, started climbing July 5th and found your channel a couple weeks ago - your mindful approach makes a lot of sense and your advice is really helpful. I’m solid on v4’s now and have tackled some soft rated v5’s and v6’s! I was having an absolute blast learning and progressing, the climbing community is full of awesome people and good vibes, but now I’m bored as hell nursing a hand injury, wishing I could be back in my tight again little shoes and covered in chalk; any killer advice for rapid recovery?

@MariusSemeonOrtiz 2 жыл бұрын

You started climbing a month ago and are already tackling v5/v6?! Well done, that’s incredible! Also makes me a bit depressed that I’ve been stuck at being unable to break the v6 barrier and I’ve been climbing for 5 years

@benstew 2 жыл бұрын

Same thing happened with me but with my elbow tendons, climbed too enthusiastically my first couple months. The recovery period is PAINFUL. Lots of physio, massages and light band exercises a bit later on sped it up for me

@adventureawaits6923 2 жыл бұрын

I’ve been athletic and in the outdoors my whole life, so I started with an advantage, embrace your journey my friend and climb on, remember the smile the boulders and walls always bring, that’s what it’s all about - good times and good vibes.

@AsteaFrosty 2 жыл бұрын

Grades also vary widely between different gyms, don't feel bad :)

@cameronheyward2362 2 жыл бұрын

Ill keep this in mind next session. Superb video, thanks!

@franknord4826 2 жыл бұрын

Cool, this is actually extremely good for me because I always used the back of my heel and that can actually become pretty painful. :)

@rishabhanand4973 2 ай бұрын

I'm currently at the point where i use heel hooks mainly as a stabilizer as my hamstrings aren't yet strong enough for me to actually pull myself with a heel hook.

@nikkitangtiphongkul1297 2 жыл бұрын

Cool thank you, cannot wait to try this out. 😁

@boulderingace7952 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks dude !

@gretabird7305 9 ай бұрын

Baby climber here, just pulled super hard on a heel hook and now I can barely walk. The last time my knee felt like this after a ski injury it took almost 6 months to heal. Any ideas to help things along?

@SamuelFabrizio 2 жыл бұрын

Also hips mobility is required for do proper hill hooks.. “toes outwards”how you call it.. I found that it was a limitation for me.. so I work on hip mobility regularly just to don’t struggle with hills hook and some other moves..

@santa123234345 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome vid dude, any chance you could think about a toe hook video?

@SebastianPerez-jr4ly Жыл бұрын

Does anyone have advice on setting heel hooks where your heel feels almost locked in? What would happen if your grip slipped while your heel was in a hold?? Has anyone been injured doing this?

@dannyly9941 2 жыл бұрын

any advice on how to spot a heel hook? I seem to never think about it to help my sends (V4-V5 climbing)

@Yue_Know_Who 2 жыл бұрын

Almost any upwards facing juggy hold or medium sized crimp can be used as a heel hook. There's no hard stead fast rool for them but sometimes you use it as counter pressure to pull yourself into a side pull where you'd otherwise fall off or barn door. Other times you will use them as a high foot to rock onto and shift your weight so you can then stand or pistol squat on. Or maybe you need that extra stability and power but the only good foot is too high to toe onto so you heel hook it instead to fit inside the box. More often than not it's used for the last one I mentioned where feet are too high to toe. There are probably a bunch of other applications, but the more you actively look for them and try them the easier it will be to spot them out.

@Jagknorr 2 жыл бұрын

The sideways heel is less on the hamstring but waaay more on the knee. 😬

@altairisky Жыл бұрын

New to climbing and had a question. All the routes at the place I go to only have marked starting. hand holds(no feet markers) . I've been trying to flying squirrel the route by holding both hand holds, hanging for a brief second before lunching my feet to a hold. My question is.. if I have both hands on the starting hold/s and there is no feet markers, Can i put my feet on other holds of the challenge or volumes? Thank you! love your content!