Thanks, there are quite a few videos on KZfaq but some don't go all the way to getting a factory finish!

Is it just matt lacquer that youvapply to the decal before putting it on?

Thank you so much. I've only done it twice but the results are excellent and you would not know it didn't leave the factory like it! Good luck with yours

Omg! That is really bad luck. It really isn't that difficult, just needs patience! Good luck and thanks for the comments

poly will yellow over time....lacquer will eventually crack...with poly you do get layers but lacquer you just get an increase in the thickness of the layer as it melts into the previous layer...if you over do it you might get a wrinkled effect so keep it thin

Hi, you can go all the way with gloss lacquer. If you want to stain the wood do it before you do anything else! I would have thought you would want to sand the headstock down to the bare wood before applying any stain. I'd probably make sure that is fully dry then seal it with a coat of lacquer before applying the decal and carrying on. Thanks for watching

Hi, Sorry, only just seen this comment. No, gloss or matt - it doesn't matter all I'd say is don't mix lacquers - ie don't use acrylic and then cellulose or vice versa. I'm not sure how they'd react with each other.

@@jpsprojectroom1994 There fine , have used Halfords Clear acrylic and Dartford nitro cellulose together many times. Polyurethane another matter altogether.

Hi, I use CorelDraw software and an HP ink jet printer but any ink jet printer will do. Thanks for watching

I really can't remember! I think it had a coat of satin or matt lacquer to seal the wood. I left enough time to make sure the lacquer had fully dried - nothing worse than sanding into slightly tacky lacquer. You then have to start from scratch!

Short answer; definitely.

Yes. You have to sand some, but not all, lacquer down to get this on, and you have to lacquer over it to secure it. You will need to refinish the whole headstock/neck if you want it to match

We lefties get forgotten about!😁

I'd like to know too. I didn't hear how that happened either. Thanks.

Im pretty sure he was using the matte from the beginning of the layers

Hi, the headstock on the neck I purchased was already coated so I just lightly sanded it to 'key' it up a bit but it literally was a very light sand - I don't think it would make too much difference if you didn't do it. The we sanding was just done with water. My main advice is just have patience. Thanks for watching

Judith - Shoot whatever the headstock base is (bare wood, acrylic, enamel, lacquer, etc.) with several coats of LACQUER first. Also, at least 2 coats on the freshly printed decal. Then, (as I do) successively apply at least 8 to 10 coats of gloss lacquer with wet sanding in between each coat. Mix a bit of dish soap in the water and don't go any coarser grit than 800, then finish up with 2000, 6000, 8000, and finally brown paper bag rubout, then auto rubbing/cutting/blending compounds. I've been a pro luthier for over 5 decades and never a complaint. WARNING, though...A buddy of mine got thrown in prison and all of his "counterfeit" guitars were destroyed. Fender and all the rest WILL press charges if You duplicate their stuff and pretend it's genuine. There are a billion other ways to tell, though, so no matter how good Your decal jobs are, it's not worth it. Change the wording or use other names, etc. Peace and love, -Smythie

I used a couple of coats of matt lacquer just to make sure the finish was even then finished off with gloss. Thanks for watching

Hi, Thanks for watching, I sanded the whole face of the headstock to guarantee a consistent finish

@@jtothepmusic ok thanks mate!

Well, that is a good question! I have a feeling there are specialist printers that can take metallic inks but other than that it's black only I'm afraid!

Hi, iused whatever ink is in HP printer cartridges!

I got it off a guy in Southampton UK via eBay, lovely guitar but I wanted a rosewood fretboard so bought a good quality (non Fender) lefty neck (also from ebay)! Being left handed there is limited choice unfortunately.

Hi, I'm not sure what you mean. There is no tape, the logo is printed on waterside decal paper which is made for the job. Once it's sealed under the clear coat it should be just as durable as any factory finished guitar. Thanks for watching

Look what He's doing....I've been doing this same thing for decades....There is NO tape involved. He uses waterslide decal paper. Watch it again, You'll learn. Have a good one. -Smythie

I used CorelDraw - but there are loads of packages out there!

@@jtothepmusic and what about the font?

@@donatomandolino4170 I scanned a logo and traced it I the software - I'm sure you could find the logo on line

Hi, I think I did at least 6-7 coats, light ones at first then heavier coats. The lacquer will obviously be raised over the logo so keep checking the level of it in comparison to the rest of the headstock. Just do it all in small increments

@@jpsprojectroom1994 OK thank u! But no sanding in between right?

Yes, just build up the layers before sanding and make sure the lacquer is completely dry before sanding.

@@jpsprojectroom1994 OK lll try it

@@jpsprojectroom1994 will give u a report

Hi, yes, it is waterslide decal paper - find it on Amazon. You print onto it using an inkjet printer then seal it with clear lacquer or varnish

You need to watch the video again. It's all explained very well.

@@jtothepmusic thks .... nice video...

Thanks for the tip - I used polyurethane clear coat on this. I have used nitrocellulose before on another headstock which still looks great

I see .you know better.why even talk to a wall?

I see .you know better.why even talk to a wall?

I see .you know better.why even talk to a wall?

I see .you know better.why even talk to a wall?

Except I haven't faked a Fender guitar! Relevant checks should be taken by anyone purchasing a Fender guitar who has doubts about its authenticy.

@@jtothepmusic Buyer beware.