Get the Carvera here (aff. link) - use code "247" for 100USD discount: bit.ly/3SnGi1g

The reason why you get the misalignment of the upper and lower cuts is due to that you use an live edge to center your stock when flipping. To fix that, first position the stock as you did in the beginning with the xy block, clamps and screws. The the second operation is to face the peace of the bloc you are going to use. Then this is the important one. Drill the screw holes and screw the stock down (At least 2 screws and screw holes.). You can now remove the clamps as the part is fixed to the board through the screws. Continue the cutting make sure in CAM to not hit the screws in the stock if they are sticking out a bit. Do this side completely done and cut it out. Now you have one part that is faced and has the features on one side. Now the magic. Flip your half ready part and screw them back in the same hole again. With this the position of the stock becomes absolute. Finally some times those screws in the beginning can is some cases be supplemented with dobbel sided tape if the forces are lower. But then you can not flip the stock easy. Final 2. With CNC you may spend more time making stock holding systems then actually making the first batch of products. Check in the @ContraptionCollection channel here on KZfaq he has some nice CNC trick's. Sorry for long message.

I've been using mine for a few months now. I think it's a pretty good machine. I own a 10 kW CNC mill so I have a little bit of experience. You can't overstate how nice the automatic tool changer is: it means you can leave it running in another room, it just goes and fills its vacuum box slowly with chips until it's done with the whole program. The automated tool setter is awesome as is the cute little service-free Z probe. I see one main point of potential improvement: the spindle speed could use being about 2x higher for small tools in aluminum, and the spindle speed stabilization is not great (it hunts a lot with load). Otherwise, maybe the Y axis should use something like Hiwin HGR rails instead of the LM style bearings, would make it a little stiffer? I need to do some real stiffness measurements. That said, it's quite precise when taking light cuts, it fits on a benchtop, and it's really well integrated. I bought one because this was the first "home" CNC mill that I felt I wouldn't get infuriated by - and so far, so good.

It doesn't look like anyone has explained the default stock to leave values, so I'll do it. Generally you would use a roughing tool and a finishing tool or even just different feed rates to improve the surface finish on the pockets, hence the 0.5mm stock to leave, so that the next tool has something to remove.

Been milling professionally for years. You're gonna love this!

Interesting review! Editing is outstanding 😮

Hahahaha "let me express it into 3d printing language" - love it! 🎉

Absolute joke of a price when you can buy a Tormach PCNC 440 for $1k more and it's a legit CNC Machining center that will cut steel and has a much larger work space in all axis.

Wow this looks amazing

Hi, awesome to see that cnc milling is becoming avaiable for the hobbyists. As someone who is experienced using industrial cnc machines I have a couple tips for you. For what I can see you are probing on the side of the plate on both operations. You can do it on the first operation, but I would recommend to probe a feature that has been milled on the first operation to probe for the second operation. For example a troughhole. As for the chamfers I would recommend to give it a larger chamfer tip offset, this way you aren't milling with the very tip. The 0.05 offset you used it quite small. I recommend this because the higher the offset the higher the circumferential speed is. At the very tip the theoretical circumferential speed is 0. But I think you did quite well for a first attempt! Cheers!

This thing looks awesome!

This machine really sounds good! Thanks for the review

the .5mm stock to leave is there because the most common practice is to rough out a part and then finish the part. or in other words remove most of the material leaving enough to be sure there is still material to take a delicate finish pass, leaving the final surface more accurate and looking better. if you click the 3 dots next to the stock to leave and click edit expression it will show where that value came from.

Thank you very much for making this review, love to finnaly have some base to decide on, for CNC machines, i cant wait for the prototyping of 3d printer parts in future videos ! The beauty is that with 3DP the mounting problem can be solved :) and i absolutely cant wait to see what you come up with !

I love this maker rennaissance that is going on, for the price it is out of the range of most hobbyists, but it is getting more and more attainable.

Very nice video. You will find you get much better results if you get shorter tools and stick them out less from the collet. In general, a stickout of 3xd or less is preferred. So a 3mm tool should stick out 9mm or less if feasible. This reduces chatter by a LOT and will significantly increase surface finish and even allow you to cut faster. If your part is only 3mm thick, then you don't need the extra stickout anyway and should choke up on the tool as far as possible, usually up to where the flutes start. This applies to side cutting tools like endmills and chamfer tools. Drills and spot drills can stick out much farther before you start to have issues.

I like what this company is about. Offer a fairly robust machine for a fairly decent price and create a community of users for education purposes. Looks like a great way to start your journey into CNC.

You could have fixed all of those wcs issues by milling a clean 90deg edge on one side. Then starting your program off a known true milled surface. Never rely on saw cuts to give you references. You could have also shifted your wcs and probed off a bore or internal pocket. Lastly a mql or consistent air blast will help alot and reducing your tool stick out as you have a lot of vibration and chatter.

i would recommend printing or cutting a fan that fits over your spindle, that way it will blow the chips off when the spindle is spinning. also, when cnc'ing double sided parts, it is good practice to use dowl/location pins (similar to the ones that were supplied with the PCB making kit), the first operation usually drills a couple of holes through the stock into the baseboard, then you insert the pins, so when you flip the stock over its perfectly aligned.

I just bought one of these about a week ago and I’m just itching for it to be delivered

Looking forward to seeing CNC parts on a future V0. Gotta take the record back from an ender 3 now...

Great video, thanks!

A great video as always! I really like that they give you a variety of material to try out all the things like the PCB fabrication for the start. When it comes to this topic I‘m a noob too and I didn’t even know that you can even chamfer edges with such a machine ^^

This really is good value for the money with the tool changer and all the accessories. Much like my own CNC the user interface is too basic out of the box. I had to buy a pendant so I can move the toolhead around and then also a macro tool with some presets. learning the CAM processes is never ending because each project will have something new you want to try. Overall an excellent video showing your noob experiences in with CNC.

Nice video,could you share the link of the v-core mods u mentioned.Maybe a video idea for u install the AWD mod with 48v and see how fast u can go on this machine,which would be interesting to see since the gantry has higher mass than a v0

Looks like a nice small machine. How did they connect the Z axis to the X axis since there is this cover in between?

now we need 247milling!

The leave stock feature is so you can set stock left for a finish pass with a different tool

Consider using a locating dowel to flip parts. Use a hole or two in your part that goes into the bed below and use that to locate the flipped work piece.

Nice machine . You could do the champfers with double sided champfer tool (doppelentgrater) in one setup. With that tool you can go inside the holes and champfer the downside

I´m milling for 17yrs and now i´m looking for something like a mini cnc mill for my home... Currently i´m working on a 33t beast with X 4000mm, Y 1350mm and Z 1650mm... And yes it is 5 axis too with Heideinhain iTNC 530 control... Imho the carvera is the best you can get, also for the money, only if you wanna do lots of laser work, forget the carvera and get something else. This is really something lots of us were waiting for! The atc is of course a highlight of this machine. If you compare this with the Nomad3 f.e. (which is unfair of course but there simple is no real other alternative yet) i always would go for the carvera. Having the possibility of milling brass and aluminium and a 4th axis is always very neat for every rc model builder. KR from Austria PS: Living in Europe, is there a 220V version, can´t find it on their page, so i guess i have to deal with the 110V plug right? Wouldn´t be an issue just need to know. EDIT: Found it in the discription "100-120VAC / 200-240VAC @ 50/60Hz" so all good 🙂

I have one noob question: Any of this video is real time speed? If so, omg that’s an awesome machine! I just got some used CNC mini end mill that I’m about to wire to test it and so excited, now imagine how much you would be by having a carvera? Excellent choice for your video, lots of real life comments, honesty about pricing, and final thoughts that are actually meaningful! Thank you!

For rpm don’t forget to calculate form cutting speed and get some tools with less stick out

very cool👍

Weirdest Porsche CarvEra I've ever seen!! But seriously, this looks like the equivalent of a Porsche for a hobbyist CNC. And I have to admit, I'm quite jealous (in a healthy way) of seeing people get these for free to review! Haha :) Looks like an awesome machine. There's so much functionality that this adds to projects, I think a machine like this needs to be in a workshop when you want to produce quality parts for small production runs of hobbyist machines and prototyping. Also a big plus that it uses USB-C.

@3:57 funny, the filter looks identical to the ones for my Xiaomi Vaccum Robot.

Cnc is really cool, I used to work in cnc programming and manufacturing and since then I have dreamed of building or buying a small machine for my hobby room. This machine seems reasonable but unfortunately the price tag is too high for me to justify it for the family...

man, cnc machines built by professionals are soooo good, they basically pamper you with all the safey and instructions and customer support, they put the parameters in for you, you just choose the material from a list, it's awesome.... the only problem is, it's expensive. for a toy, it's expensive. it costs the same as a 5 year old used car. i CAN afford it, but it hurts knowing it's just a toy

nice one!

Good review, I definitely want one, but sadly I can't afford it. :p

That is amazing! I wish they would ship to Brazil :(

Nice vid, great machine (and company). *LOVE* my Carvera (car *v* era … You’re not Naomi “R’s Are Hard” Wu 😂 )

Great video! But most surprising part - a basement in your garage?!

For this to be a smashout 'home user'-level success, $2500 is about the upper cap. As of this morning, the base machine is a cool $6.2k USD. For that price, you could have an industrial ADM machine that can print synthetic materials that will rival aluminum, or even get in some entry-level SLS metal printers. I'm not seeing $6,200 of kit here.

Is this machine similar to a 3d printer in that after you hit print it is hands off? I am so new to CNC I can't even say I'm new to CNC.

Btw simon vez did test if switching the y axis to mgn 9 and it didnt provide any better input shaping results

Rough surface on the aluminum is probably from using a wrong end mill. Looks like you were using a single flute (one cutting edge) end mill intended for plastics. A two or three flute will give a much nicer surface finish. Safe Z - how high up the tool moves between cuts - unless you're going over clamps and such, keep it as low as possible for faster machining. As long as it does not run into anything, Z0.1 is often plenty. Flip machining - working on two sides of the part - NEVER indicate (position) parts off of the original piece of material UNLESS it's a machined block. Instead, cut out a pocket for the part in the wasteboard, then super glue the part into said pocket once one side and the perimeter have been cut out. That will make sure that the part is put back in the exact spot where it was originally instead of relying on it being perfectly in the middle of the stock (original piece of material), being located perfectly against the guide, not moving when it's re-clamped, and so on. Acetone will easily remove the glue afterwards. This one is more of a personal choice, but I always cut the pocketed or more complex sides first. That way if something messes up I haven't wasted cutting whole other side, and it makes sure that all pockets, screw holes, and other features are where they should be relative to one another. Then just flip, champher the other side, and the part is ready.

The "Stock to leave" default 0.5m on the pocket operation is because it expects the user to program a finishing pass

How long did it take you to mill that ABS part ?

I wish you tested the tolerances etc

How long did it take to machine one of your brackets?

does the air assist of the carvera work well ?

This is an amazing machine, but it is too expensive. Great video.

I wonder if he ever show the cnc again after this vid. Making fixtures to mill the second side annoying and often times even the first side can be a challenge. Figure out feeds and speeds is often a chore. Making the CAM can be time consuming and you often have to tweak settings after the first milling attempt. But aluminum is superior in strength and stiffness compared to FDM printing in the end. You also can mill a FDM print to get better tolerances or save a print. I saved a print this week. Got the support distance wrong and couldn’t remove it. Used my CNC to cut out the support melted to the part.

I would have never wondered but since it's a "secret"... What type of PLA were you using? 😆

With the influencer accessories package and after tax it's no longer 5000$ but over 8000$ in Germany. I can have PCBway make quite a lot of parts for _that_ kinda money. Plus, I don't need an extra room as a workshop...

The price is great, especially having a tool changer

You need to do a video on the rat rig

For that kind of money i would go with PrintNC or Milo 1.5

I'd love to have a carvera for making led and motor drivers and psu parts for old tvs and consoles. I'm a 45 year old disabled dude who can never afford one. Pcbway nickel and dime me with shipping in my part of Canada.

oida, sicher das du noch nie was gefräßt hast ?🙂 will auch so ein Trumm.

Wow niceeee awesome

Now you should rename your channel to just 24/7 😂

wow this is fully loaded ,this isnt going to be cheap

Also here from Stranger Parts factory tour 😂

Can it handle steel?

for 2500 you can get a queen ant pro cnc 1500mm X 1500mm

I really want one of these so much, but the price will forever keep it out of reach for me.😥 I'm sue it' s worth the money, though.

Grüsse aus NiederBayern xDD bist ja eh gleich um's Eck quasi

It sounds too good to be true because its six thousand dollars, it better be at that price

They should make a tiny one with an a4 sized build plate for pcbs only. Pcbway sponsor so many people that they gouge us little guys. If they stopped sponsoring everyone with 1k and over subs they could pass some savings on. I submitted a 2 sided gerber a few months ago and they wanted over 120usd shipped so i tried jlpcb and it was 7 bucks and i had the boards in a week. Pcbway want a fortune for the least amount of options of any board house ive tried.

Tutorials please

0:52 In theory, theory and practice are the same thing, in practice they don’t.

The real question we are here for is: When 1500mm/s cnc mill?

man I don´t need another tool ! 😅

Although it's a very nice and well thought out machine, the price is simply too high for what it is. For that amount of money and a little bit of diy effort one can assemble a vastly more serious mill, with a 2.2kw spindle, rapidchange atc, cast iron frame, bigger workspace, etc... Around 3k would be a much more resonable price for a machine of this calber.

And it’s already way too slow. When will we do 15000mm/s ?

what this printer cannot do?

Did the it come with the wasp

Keine "Werbung" Einblendung? Oh oh gefährlich 😬

It's really expensive for what it is. Limited stiffness, limited machining area

200 W spindle does not a high-end CNC make...

Going to use it to make printer parts?

0:06 roach on table

5000 plus??? for a toy like that. Better off making 1 out of 80/20. Just a thought.

Why not go for a Snapmaker?

$5000. Still too expensive.

It’s not really high end, but a decent machine with good options for the money

Wait bro, you are using apple operating system instead of linux. "You were the chosen one! It was said that you would destroy the Sith, not join them!

first

What's with the bugs crawling around the machine in the intro?

Great for Beginners with extra $5,999.00

62 hundred dollar

Great video. However, it shined through a lot that you were very happy to receive the gift and that colored every sentence in the video. I understand it, but it is still a bit annoying.

5k?! LoL

I mean it looks okay... it does a lot of stuff for you but honestly if you are looking to get into CNC buy a cheap machine and spend some money upgrading it and learning how it works. You are paying for a lot of fancy features you dont really need. You're really not getting a robust machine here.

Only in 4 months its 500 dollars more for this thing. Sucks...

Review seem really biased , guess you get it for free but expected to market it for them

6000 Dollars lol

Those glasses will NOT protect you. Please be responsible and get some proper glasses and let Carvera know about this. Those cheap glasses offer NO protection.