Hi Dennis! You happen to find me at a time when my enthusiasm for sewing, and by extension making sewing videos, at an all-time low, and I have a hefty back log of videos I plan/hope/have been asked to make. Unfortunately, if I ever made a video on daisy chains, you will have retired your pack lol. Short of making a video, daisy chain webbing is basically just webbing that is sewn down in short sections, with some looseness to allow the webbing to stand away from the pack. Depending on the webbing and your preference, you might fold the webbing lengthwise on itself and sew down the folds to stiffen it. I found this video, I don't know the creator but this seems to show the basic idea, albeit on a backpack strap. Maybe you will find it helpful. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qeChh6aamJrLlp8.html Sorry I can't be more helpful, good luck with your project!

Greetings, and thank you for watching!

Thank you! That's awesome that you're making your son a rope bag, tree climbing requires some pretty serious gear, and I'm sure he'll be proud having one custom made for him. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

Thank you!!!

Hi Greg! I like polyester for most of the reasons you mention. I don't use it exclusively, though. I use a lot of Mil-Spec 17337 nylon webbing for backpack straps, PALS (MOLLE) attachments, etc. But polyester has some advantages for sure! The stretch factor is why I used polyester for my hammock tree straps. Thanks for the informative comment!

I don't have a video specifically on attaching the sliders, but my backpack straps video shows how they go on. Thanks for watching!

If you haven't already seen it, I have a multi-part tutorial on making a backpack with no pattern. Thanks for watching!

Hi Richard! Thanks for your kind words, they are much appreciated! So, there are (at least) three problems one might encounter when sewing through a thicker, tougher transition with a non-walking-foot, standard domestic sewing machine. One, and probably most noticeable, is difficulty feeding the material at the transition. You're sewing along up to the part where it gets thick (additional seam bulk, webbing) and the machine "hits the wall" and just sews in place. If you're going fast, this can lead to a build-up (aka bird's nest) of bobbin thread underneath, and that may cause a bent or broken needle, thread breakage, etc. The solution, go SLOW, and hand wheel the machine over the transition. Depending on how thick, you may need to raise the foot with each stitch until you're on level ground again. Remember to put the foot down each time you raise it, though - the upper tensioner is disconnected when the foot is raised, and sewing (even with the hand wheel) with the foot up will yield tension issues. The second problem is the thinner needles typically used may result in needle deflection (the needle is slightly bent out of its path by the layers of fabric). This can lead to skipped stitches, bent or broken needles or possibly even damage to the hook on the machine. The solution is to again go SLOW. Ideally, you've chosen a thread/fabric/needle combination that is most appropriate, but even if you have, the thickest seams might be pushing the envelope. So go slow, watching the needle to see that it is not bending. You may have to stop and make tiny adjustments to where the fabric sits to find an easier path for the needle - it should slide through easily. DON'T FORCE IT! The third likely problem you may encounter is called "flagging," which is when the material being sewn is not held securely by the presser foot. If you watched my sail tote bag video recently, I had this problem when sewing the top hem over the bound seam. What sometimes happens is when the foot is on top of the thicker seam, but the needle is beginning to sew the thinner layers after the thick seam, the foot is not effectively holding that thinner material down to the bed of the machine. As the needle raises to complete the stitch, the fabric raises some with it. The friction against the fabric is what holds the thread as the needle raises in order to form the loop, which gets caught by the shuttle hook to form the stitch. If the fabric moves upward with the needle, the loop is not formed correctly, and the result can be skipped stitches and/or long loops of thread on the bottom side. Again, go SLOW, and watch for excess movement of the fabric after the transition. You may need to stop at the transition and come at it from the other side. You can try using a smooth mallet or hammer to pound the thick part down some, this may help. You may have to consider hand stitching if your machine won't do it. In the design phase, making transitions between thick and thin parts as smooth as possible can help. There are also "ramps" that can be purchased or improvised to help the machine over transitions like this, but I have never tried them so can't speak to how they work. Go slow, check your work as you go along, and be (mentally) prepared to seam rip and make adjustments. Let me know how your project turns out, I'd love to see what you made!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for the tips and the videos. I completed my build last night. Sent you an email request. I'd love to send you some pics. Thanks again.

Hi Paul, That is the Sailrite! Thread - as almost always is the case with me - is size 69 nylon. The needle is whatever came in the Sailrite when it arrived, which I think is a 21...? The Sailrite (and most of my other machines) don't have numbers on the tension adjustments, which I think is a good thing. Tension isn't a numbers thing, you just have to adjust it so that it's right, which might change from piece to piece. I strongly recommend that you run some seams on some sample pieces of the fabric your project is made from to check tension before starting. If you haven't seen it, I have an older, 2- part video called Sewing Machine Basics that, among other things, has a decent example of tension adjustment. The foot is the standard foot for the Sailrite. Thanks for your questions, and thanks for watching!

Hey Jason great video, I like i said in one of your other videos you helped me alot on making a backpack. I have a Rex 607 copy very similar to a sailrite, and I use #69/T70 bonded nylon thread also, but I use it with a size 16 needle, I dont like the size 21 because it punches very large holes for the size of threat we are using, size 21 needles are for a thread size of #138/T135 threads. Again thank you and take care.

Hm. Caveats galore here: I currently don't own any manufactured backpacks except for my backpacking one, and it's a Golite, which went out of business (now revived as MyTrail). Also, "backpack" could mean a lot of things (ultralight backpacking, every day carry, military-style rucksack, etc.). All that said, my opinion is there is not a significant difference in QUALITY between brands at a similar price point. Pretty much everything is made in Asia, and many are probably made in the same factories. The materials for two packs designed for the same purpose are likely to be pretty much identical. The deciding factor is more likely to be design. I'm not fond of over-complicated designs, or very specific pockets and such, but that's my preference. (For example, a pocket designed to perfectly fit the iPhone 7 that won't work for the iPhone 9 when it comes out, or something.) I've briefly examined a GoRuck pack, and I remember thinking it seemed well built and thought-out. Vanquest bags seem interesting, but I've never seen one in person. But - this is why I make my own (and maybe you should, too!). I can design and make my backpack suit my purposes, hold as much or as little gear as I need, and be whatever material(s) I choose. My current every day pack (I literally carry it every single day, and as my carry on on trips) has been taken apart and modified several times. If something breaks, wears out or needs to be changed, I can easily do it. However, making a backpack - and doing it well - is a bit of an undertaking. My best advice is to pick a budget that'a appropriate for how much you'll be using your pack, and look at packs in that price range to find the best design for your needs. If you can try several on to compare comfort, that would be good. Thanks for your question, and good luck!

The packs I've made have usually only been reinforced with foam. I suppose you could also use wide webbing (3-inch wide is the widest I've seen, but there may be others), or by adding layers of heavy canvas or nylon. I think suit lapels are reinforced with canvas that has been stitched over repeatedly, that might be an option as well. I've been considering using Kydex (thermoplastic sheet used to form knife sheaths, gun holsters, etc.) to try to make a semi-molded back panel, but I haven't gotten beyond thinking about it. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!

Hi! The machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 (straight-stitch only; also available is the LSZ-1 with zig-zag capability). I have a review video, an unboxing video and several other videos showing it in use if you'd like to know more. It's the machine I use for 95% of my sewing. Thanks for watching!

In this project, and almost everything else I sew, I use size 69 (V69, Tex 70) bonded nylon thread. Size 69 is a versatile size that can cover a wide range of fabrics, and works well in domestic sewing machines and industrial machines. I buy my thread from The Thread Exchange, they have a great selection and a very informative website. I hope that helps, thanks for the question and thanks for watching!