Thanks Odie!!!

Thank you!!

Hey thanks for the comment. I appreciate your thoughts. If I did the conversion correctly, I think I paid slightly less for my walnut but typically it would be in that range. For this build, the weight of everything was the real tricky part. I’m not sure veneered plywoods or MDF solved that. The torsion box would but then there’s a lot of veneer to worry about which I’m not we’ll versed in. I usually stick to 3/4” thick cases; this one at 1.5” was a bit of an anomaly. This was my first project with the Domino. Like many have commented, I definitely used too many. The glue up became very stressful. But luckily the epoxy bought me plenty of time to get it all together. No offense taken by the way. I appreciate insight like this. Thanks a lot. Take care!

@@parillaworks I agree about the weight - mdf particularly probably weighs more than the equivalent solid wood. Although I can make veneers down to 0.5mm thick(slow on a bandsaw with new blade and rollers as feather board), I tend to cut mine much thicker. So, if I want a 18mm board, I would use 12mm mdf with 3mm “veneer” each side. That gives me meat so that I use a rebate joint at the corners. Uses a lot less solid timber but saves nothing on weight. I’ve seen how you cut thin slices and you’ve shown it is very achievable although a good drum sander definitely helps. Jointing them onto the substrate is no more difficult than joining thin pieces of solid - and, again, you’ve shown how that is done with very good results. If you are sensible, you are always learning and that learning can sometimes mean going back to something you did years ago. I must admit that I fell out of using dowels - for no good reason. Thanks to you, I am now back to using them as an alternative to small dominos or small loose tenons. Style is personal; quality ought to be universal. For me, your clean aesthetics resonate. After function, they show the timber to be king. But customers are the decision makers on this. What they want and can pay for, they get. Even if the aesthetics grinds personally. Good saying - the customer is not always right; but they are always the customer. I’m personally pleased at the lack of overt joints. There does seem to a prevalence to regarding dovetails as somehow the pinnacle of fine woodwork - it seems almost macho. As you know, with practice, they are fairly standard to make but I wonder why they are used. Dovetails really originated at a time when fastenings (mechanical or adhesive) were poor. And so a mechanical joint was needed. It took time but labour was cheap then. Now that we excellent hidden fastenings and adhesives stronger than the timber, do we need dovetails? I tend to think it’s only woodworkers who want dovetails as a sign of their skill. I’d offer the comment that in pieces like yours, dovetails are not only unnecessary for fastening but would seriously detract from the clean aesthetic. I would ask proponents of dovetails whether they thought that Chippendale, if he had the use of those modern day fastenings and adhesives, would have wasted money on having dovetails made. I think the answer is fairly easy - the makers of past generations made pieces to the best standards they could using the best equipment, fastenings and adhesives available to them - in their time. I’ve only ever had one customer comment on dovetails - I had designed a keepsake box with dovetails and she asked me what those ugly things were and could I make the box without them. Very happy to. Apologies for the long response. Result of not being able to get out to the workshop and do things. I hope you, your family and all your subscribers keep safe and well in these quite unprecedented times.

Thank you!!

Ya this new (to me) finish worked pretty well. I was very close to using lacquer but wanted something with less VOC and easier cleanup. But from I can tell, a lot of the pros go with a pre-cat lacquer.

Thank you! That cut at 13:06 is just cutting a 9”x9” square. The main force pushing the board is from my right hand. The left hand is just gently guiding the board.

👍👍

Thank you!! And that’s a great tip. I’ll give it a shot

Thanks!

Thanks Alan! That’s a great tip. The router bit was actually a 5/8” straight mortising bit. I like using my little plunge router and it only accepts 1/4” shank. So using this but let’s me knock out the 1” wide dado in 2 passes. But yes, I usually prefer spiral bits when possible. And now that I think about it, I do have a couple nice 1/2” spiral bits. But I hate my bigger Dewalt plunge router. Need to get a new one.

@@parillaworks all I read there is that you need to buy a new 1/4" spiral bit ;-) I have the Festool OF1400 router, with a pistol grip. I like it very much, very comfortable and precise. I got it for 200$ but I dont think I could/would justify the current price. BTW, I wasnt sure then you did the round overs, but the result really adds a level of refinement!

@@AlainPilon I agree, a 1/16" roundover makes any project look more professional.

Thank you William!

Thanks a lot Bryan. I appreciate your comment.

Thanks so much!

Thank you!!

And there’s always a place for extended family to sit and eat at gatherings….! :D

Thank you! And yes the wheels were just to help me move it around in the shop. 🙃

Thanks Morgan!

Thank you James. She’s a great shop buddy :)

Thanks! That’s a great suggestion. I had considered it briefly because I had another lady project in the queue that could use them. I might have to try them next time.

Thanks so much!!

Simon I appreciate the comment. I’m glad the video could help you out some!

Thank you!

Thanks Michael!

Ya it was a beast. Really heavy and hard to move. The initial request was for 2” thick casework but I suggested 1.5”. Looking back, 1.375” would’ve been worked too and saved a lot of lumber.

@@parillaworks my word? I personally wouldn't have gone thicker than 3/4"-1", but I am amazed at the piece. Beautiful work!