Heh so many comments about the stickout. It'll be fine, it's probably the same or less than the 4 jaw. You do need to mark an alignment point on chuck and spindle face so you always mount it the same way. Otherwise you could see the runout increase. Nice job.

From the thumbnail I thought you customized an HSK100 collet tool holder. Great job on that small lathe. Reminds me of the good old days as a teenager using my uncles small table lathe in his garage. Obviously never as accurate and creative like you.

You should be very proud and pleased, to be able to make your own collet chuck from a small billet of steel to that quality and accuracy on hobby machines is fantastic well done and Thank you for sharing it with you.

I wish you had shown the inner run out of the taper

I don't know how long you've had your collets but when mine were delivered, also from China, although they were well packed in clear plastic, oiled and in the usual yellow containers they needed cleaning. I washed them in a shop solvent to get rid of the oil but then I noticed strings of metal in the grooves from the slitting saws used to cut the slots. Using a utility knife, scriber or dental pick and long nosed pliers I went over each and every slot, looking at a light through the slots to make sure all were clean. This certainly cleaned up a fair amount of previously measured run out. My ER 25 collets run less than 0.001" run out. Plenty good enough for what I do. Do you have a video on your tool post grinder setup? Indeed to make one and am gathering ideas.

I really enjoy your channel and your creative way to achieve great results with the little lathe. I have two of those lathes. They are used daily in my business of restoring automotive parts. They have their shortcomings but overall I'm pleased with the results I get from them. I've learned a lot from your channel and appreciate your time and effort in making these enjoyable videos.

At 9:19 you started the main threading process. In the future: A - use some kind of tapping oil etc B - Make sure to not cut with both sides of your thread tooling. This results in you tearing away material instead of cutting clean threads. I suggest either using the 5:1 method or by angling your cross-slide to 29 degrees. The 5:1 method is 5 lines of travel (0.1mm) in the Y-axis and 1 line of travel (0.02mm) on the compound slide. (note that when using this method it is handy to start test fitting when you are about 1mm away from your total depth of cut.) I am a junior toolmaker, thus take what I say with a grain of salt... but this was the way I was taught and the way I cut threads quick and easy whilst still obtaining a quality finish.

This was quite interesting for me and has lots of good ideas one can use in a variety of projects. Thanks for posting!

Oooo, great idea. This is something I need to make. Thanks for sharing.

It is always inspiring to see what can be done using simple tools. The creativity is in the mind not so much the machine. Nice job.

Excellent work.

Good work as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

Great job for such a small machine!

Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing.

Thanks for sharing. Very informative video.

Well done.

This is a pretty ambitious project on your little lathe!

very well done, inspiring me to make a collet holder like this....cheers from Florida, USA, Paul

Beautiful

That was another great video my friend.

Great Job👌

Very nice job.

If you are on a budget look for AA grade Chinese collets. There are very good ones available at reasonable prices. Nice job! Loudly agree with the advice to mark your collet and the headstock so you put it back the same way every time.

lov the battery drill power feed !!! 👍

Nice job!

Very nice... Thanks!

I did not know a posh australian accent was possible. Good video man.

love your power feed for the cross slide

I'd rather watch your channel than to watch Abom with his unboxing videos. Good job btw.

Great work dude, I think you’ll be really happy with this tool. The fact it registers on the spindle nose should make for really good repeatability. Don’t forget to mark the Chuck before removing it thou ;)

Love this video...being able to make your own chuck for this lathe is pretty cool. Three things I picked up here: One was manual feed single point threads with the bars. That seems like a great idea for such short threads. Another was using the dial indicator to get the taper right. Nice trick. Finally, using a drill for an improvised feed. Pretty cool. Thanks for those. As for the comments about not using the calipers in the markers in the trades, you should see what people in the trades in the US do with tools, especially electricians. Lineman's pliers? They're hammers, pliers, and reamers. Screwdrivers? Punches and pry bars. At the end of the day, it's just a tool. Some put them in display boxes, some put a little wear on them. All good!

He didn't cut stock by hand this time. Good!

That is impressive

Good job! Like and subscribed!

Good job! Thanks for sharing. I note your comments about the quality of the collets. I too am looking for better quality items but data is lacking except for top quality which come at a price!

Interesting project, I had exactly the same problem, but I just bought one for around £30, it’s actually very precise & rigid. I could never get the Morse taper one to run right. I was going to make one but it’s a long job & I just didn’t have time. My problem now is cheap collets, some of them run nice, but I’ve had to replace others & quality collets aren’t cheap. Nice job 👍

Sweet.

Brilliantly informative as well as being just an all round great viewing experience for me my bro.. U have gained some great skills on that cheap 600 dollar Mini Lathe . It's a very decent Lathe for the price and I will be getting my own maybe early next year or possibly for Xmas depending on the funds available. I'm just getting my shop ready for painting after 4 skips of clearing crap out of it. It was full of crap collected for over 25 years. Not my crap but the skips cost me money I needed for other stuff and I've gotta build a new back and front to the garage too. New doors and frames, etc which has eaten into my budget for some awesome new tools. I have my table saw, Jointer/thicknesser and a shed load of other great little hand tools to be getting some great work done with but I really always secretly wanted to own my own Lathe bro. After watching ur video about the 2 year review of ur lathe I was hooked. I said in an earlier video that @This Old Tony was another dude who did a video on the Mini Lathe and his was decent too but I'm astonished at how good they actually are for that little amount of layout. Thanks for showing ur the making of the new jaw? for the collet chuck. That was brilliant to watch bro and I've always loved watching these types of videos anyways so I will be watching more of urs too.. Salute from IRELAND my friend and keep up the awesome work ..

nice job man..

My first thoughts were like most others about the stick out! Makes sense to allow for the way cover but I never thought of it! Also someone commented about centre punching some marks to allow to reseat the collet chuck in the same place every time. Good idea! Also if there is a possibility of showing the runout inside the collet chuck I would imagine the runout should be near zero...I hope? Anyhoo, keep up the good work and I am really enjoying this channel!

I'm very impressed with the quality of cut and the power of this small machine. I'm getting lots ideas for making mine more rigid.

An easy way to compensate the runout of cheap collets is to increase the play of the collet chuck on the spindle nose. You can tap it in with a copper hammer.

runout is just awesome in this non rigid lathe setup

If you machine the inside back of the chuck to the dimensions of a 5C collet, you'll be able to use the 5C depth stop with the ER32 collets for making repetitive short parts. Just a suggestion. If you've already machined it larger than the 5C inner bore, I forget what the dimension is, you could always make your own depth stop to suit your ER 32 chuck. Just a suggestion. Keen to see how you do the taper.

Great explanations, with the added comments. One point from my observations...the chuck holder could be fabricated from a round plate, for fastening to headstock, and a chuck thread or slightly more diameter bar fixed into the back plate ( pinned, lock screwed or welded); this could be made with HS bore diameter for supporting longer bars ( with changeable sleeves) matching the Diameters available in the Collet set. I am looking at saving all the machining of the massive cylinder of solid. The fabricated unit chuck can be Finished-machined True ( as can be done), and the whole attachment used for a CNC- style Process of Profile turning of Round Bar ( or adding CNC to lathe itself). Have saved Video to Hard Drive for future Reference ( I have a Hafco 250G).

That is an ingenious idea, using a drill to run the cross slide back and forth. for cutting the taper and the finishing. sometimes it's better not to discard old parts. such as with the old cross slide. because they can be handy for future use. and I agree with you about using higher quality grinding stones on the final finishing. because the cheaper ones are usually just glued on the Arbor shaft. where as the higher quality ones are better afixed to the Arbor shaft. I agree those are pretty low run out numbers. especially for it not being a professional quality lathe. I'm curious if you have a video on the tool post grinder set up. if so I would definitely like to see it.

Paulimot are selling these for a good price and low runout. They have also high precision collects. Did work for me.

Outstanding…..on another channel (Xanadu, I think? ) a guy called Rob got better runout from cheaper collets by rotating them in the holder to another position. I’ve always meant to try it….seemed to work for him.

Looks good. I commend the effort gone into making this. That's a big ol' chunk of steel to machine! 👍 Me? I don't know if I could have been bothered tbh 😅 They are readily available over here for not much money. Some are a direct fit to the mini lathe!

Man muß sich nur zu helfen wissen! good stuff mate.

amazing work dude! if i was you i would reduce the size of the sticking out and make smaller and much closer to the bearing to give much more rigidity, amazing video! relaxing and fun to watch

Merci

I was almost expecting you to pull out an m40x1.5 die when it came time to thread... You really hate single pointing :D

I love your content so much!! I would love to see you build a LowRider 3 to add a router platform to your capabilities. If you do it, give LinuxCNC and a Mesa card a run. Once you master that platform on your router, it will be easy to add cnc to your other machines.

Seems a lot of people are commenting about how far out the threads are from the backplate, but if the ways covers, when bunched up, prevent the cross slide from coming up all the way, maybe you could machine a relief underneath for the covers to collapse into so the tool can be close to flush against the backplate for those types of jobs. I love your work though and I love that you are always improving your tooling and setup by making parts yourself. Sure you could buy precision ground pieces made of top notch materials if you had hundreds or thousands of dollars laying around, but to be able to get stock or scrap metal and make it yourself just the way you like it must feel very satisfying! I love seeing the improvements you make for your tooling. I'm kinda jealous that I don't have a lathe and the resources to make cool stuff like that!

13:38 - Nice you're doing inner diameter grinding.

Well now I feel bad as I purchased the same thing from China and to be honest have not checked the runout. But some very small parts I have made are fine by me. Nice build!👍

Try Trefolex cutting compound for tapping and die cutting in steel. Try Eze-Lap diamond files in 400, 600 and 1200 grit for surface clean up. They'll need "breaking in" on a bit of steel first. Eze-Lap also make Swiss file 600 grit sets which are very good for small work. WD 40 makes for a good cutting fluid but use MX4 (from Bunnings) for rust prevention. You can slow rust on steel tools by chemi blacking with various gun bluing liquids and pastes followed by spraying with MX4. If you use G96 dip in bicarb solution after blacking as it leaves residual hydrochloric acid on the steel, which rusts a few months later. Medium carbon steel you used was SAE 1045?

The Pin used to measure runout after the first grind is wonkey. If you look at the Reflection of the light in the grind of the pin you can see that the pin was the problem. Otherwise a darn solid video. Keep it going with the lathe Videos.

Bro, why did you upload at like 3-4am? We Aussies gotta sleep the same as everyone else.

I'm going to have to go checkout my mini lathe, I could of sworn it's mt2.

👍👍👍

❤️

You could take much heavier cuts if you weren’t using DCMT tools all the time. I’ve got a lathe similar to this & use it in my business, but I pretty much use CCMT tools for everything. I’m still running the original headstock bearings & can take 0.5mm depth cuts in steel & stainless, then swap out for DCGT tips for aluminium & plastic & go for 1mm & 2mm DOC respectively. I only use HSS tools for specific form tools & parting (for some reason I don’t get on with carbide parting on this lathe). I don’t use a solid tool post either. You can get a double ended, left & right, CCMT 06 (with the little tips) tool very cheap, that’s really handy, it’s my go to for most jobs. I save the DCMT tools for detail stuff like making screws.

I want to make a trance but tNice tutorials looks so difficult!!!

I know this video has been up a while - but for checking runout you could start by checking the run out of the actual internal taper of the chuck, *before* proceeding to check the runout of a part held in the chuck.

Why are you turning the spindle by hand to cut your threads? Are you just lacking torque on the mini lathe? Just curious. Anyway, great job as always. Big fan of your creative problem solving, you always do a lot with very little.

Great content as always! 👍 I do wonder at your surface finish issues when using those carbide inserts. Maybe the inserts are blunt? I have trouble with inserts on my 7x20 minilathe, it is just not rigid enough to prodcue the right cutting forces and I get a shitty finish. I found HSS tools hand sharpened to a real sharp point give good finish because the cutting forces are small and the machine doesnt deflect and chatter. Some people seem to like those high sharpness carbide inserts sold for cutting aluminium.

When you did the scratch pass for the M40 thread, I could see that your part was not running concentric. One purpose of a scratch pass, is to indicate whether you are cutting concentric and that the part is round. It has to be a perfect spiral all round the part, not in some parts, like on yours. You ended up with a thread that is not exactly concentric to the OD of the part. That probably happened when you removed the part to drill the holes. Hopefully it is minimal.

You should have put a gutter a the end of the m40 thread

You should be using spiral taps on blind holes like that. You get better threads and less chance of breaking taps 👍

👍

When you cut the thread on the lathe, it is a good ide to have an exit groove. Great job otherwise. I will make one of these myself.

9:33 Interesting relative movement during cut.

You could clean up the collets. Take a look at good old tony.

Would it have been possible to machine this in the pre CNC era? They made some amazing parts back in the day with mechanical copy machining and hand tools to finish. Just wondering.....

Good job, but u could buy that new for 60 bucks. And you could grind the tools of HSSCo10. Hard to grind but the durability is unmatched. i use them for years and they never get blunt.

👍👍😎👍👍

Lovely job! Did you use EN8 for this project? People have commented on the stick out, but🙂 given the amount of protrusion could you maybe have used the excess amount to have made it adjustable. Material might be a bit tight side but even M4 grub screws with a ball bearing will do the job. I had to use m4 on a 5c collet chuck making it a tru adjust on my 13 30 lathe when there was limited space and it worked wonderful and obviously 0 run out. Hope you don't mind putting my 2 penno'th in. Kind Regards. Steve

Enjoy watching your ch. i assume your are self taught with no Trade Training ,am I correct ? As a Machinist/Toolmaker, please refrain from useing your Vernier Caliper , a precision measuring tool, as a "Jennie" scriber ! Measuring Tools should be treated with utmost of care. (Just a thought). I admire the quality of your finished projects, & your "can do" attitude 👍 Keep the Vids coming 🙂

Att: Nice video ,but a think are using ,the wrong file .to file the steel taper. For you information to improve your skill the Lathe operator. The Lathe FILE it a single cutt ,one way only. The file have 60* on axis to relize the chips when cutting. Lathe FILE not get stock the material. Nice work , Remember all the taper for collet are calculate TAPER PER FOOT INGLISH. Recomend using sine bar to set up the angle.

I’m willing to bet you were closer than .015 out. That material you were using as a test piece looks centerless ground, if it is then it has 3 lobes on it that can easily measure .005-.01 runout.

For a project like this a tool post grinder is a big advantage. I'm trying to make an er16 spindle assembly for a tool post grinder myself but i don't know why I ended up with .1 mm of runout, but the bearing journal is concentric with the collet taper. I'm trying to figure it out. I'm using 2 tapered ball bearing at the front and 2 normal ball bearing at the back. The 2 bearing journals have been cut between centers and the collet taper is being indicated on the front bearing journal.

Do you have another channel about economics? Your voice and economics explained are identical 😅

⭐🙂👍

It is probably a bit late commenting at this stage. Did you consider designing your chuck as a 'zero adjust' type chuck. You can use your old collets and adjust out eccentricity.

Well impressed with that. Well done. Do you have any knowledge about the best Chinese small lathes to buy?

Nice job mate. Whats the purpose of the black split clamp thingy around your spindle?

You should contact cce cutyibg edge engineering and grab up all there dropped metal they throw wway lots of usable metal and they are awesome people with big tools

Nice job. Would have liked to see what length of material you could mount. I'm assuming full access to the spindle hole?

Have you measured the runout when using the mill collet chuck in the lathe? To have something similar to compare the new one you made to

That should be a tapered backplate. Almost all lathes have some kind of taper for chuck mounting.

You were switching between various inserts, HSS tooling and also filing. Did you have trouble with the turning ? I get decent performance out of the chinese DCMT070204 VP15TF inserts when turning tensile steel. I only use the sharper DCGT aluminium inserts for boring and finishing passes, they don't last that long.

I keep noticing in your videos that black mounting plate around/behind the spindle plate, what is that thing? Somehow I don't recall such a plate on other mini-lathes. I'm sure it is something obvious that I should know, like maybe a machinists stubby holder 😉

You seem to have quite a bit of length to the holder. i. e. space between nut and face Is there a reason you didn't make it shorter?

Am wondering what is the collet holding the grinder to the tool post? Thanks

Would you let us know what kind of tool post grinder did you use?

How come you hand fed the threading tool instead of using power ?

My man subtly complaining about a less than one one thousandth run out. Glad to see it'll be money well spent when I buy a mini lathe if they can make parts that good with some upgrades.

dammit dude, did you cut that with a hacksaw?! Can you start a pateron so we can buy you a band saw >.