Glueing his lungs closed with every pass...this is lesson 1 in spray painting....😢😢😢

Thanks, yeah it is not my first build, first LP. I did get the neck in and it's not going anywhere, not every second of the build is recorded. Yeah, the Fleor pickups sound great, I used a set of P-90s from them in a 335/330 build and loved the sound.

I tend to agree they do a pretty nice job on the kits, the standard ones can use hardware upgrades, and the Wilkenson kits are pretty solid.

How would you rank Precision’s guitar kits?

Haven't tried one of Precision's kits, I've done SOLO and FretWire Kits those were ok but the necks needed a lot of work. @@jerrymander1492

Very cool, thanks for sharing Eric!

So how did the string angle turn out behind the bridge?? Gibson's are notorious for extreme break angle with the tailpiece flush to the body Was considering one and was curious Thanks man yours came out great

@@paulcowart3174 I know that the stop bar "looks" out of place anywhere other than all the way down. Let's get thatvoutta the way first. But, they are adjustable and it does change the "feel" of the things. The higher you go the more "slinky" feeling the strings "feel" and it changes the tone a tad too. Lastly, you can top wrap the strings if you just have to have the bar down flush. But be warned, that method will likely dent and scratch the bar. Even doing this one single time will leave evidence that it was done, so be sure your stringing this way forever or you'll be mad at yourself every time you look at it. At the end of the day, you'll likely run into issues if you let some mass manufacturers decide where your bridge goes. IF I ever buy a kit again it will be up to me where the bridge goes. This seems to be the one critical flaw in set neck kits. They get this wrong as often as they get it right. Which sucks. And I have one kit that looks like a beautiful wall hanger for storing some mediocre guitar parts now. Unfortunately starting with kits can be pretty good and pretty bad simultaneously. One out of three guitar kit world kits turned out to be a very nice guitar. It sold as soon as someone picked it up to try it in my showroom, in person to try it out. Another has a twisted neck(boy, am I mad). And the first one sold, got a 5 star rating. Then the fellow said it was warped and wanted his dough back. I did so. Recieved it back, still cant find anything wrong with it. But once bitten twice shy. I decided to keep it. Besides it's the only guitar I have today with a P90. I gotta get my mountain on from time to time lol..

@@erickaufmancustomguitars1351 Thank you for the reply...yes the bridge/tailpiece seems to be something they don't want to change up Traditionalist appeal I guess but it's the one thing that can make a difference Faber has some stud grommets that will relieve the break some for the flush to body guy's I think saddle's are very important and always wondered why Gibson doesn't make them exactly like the 50's ones much flatter at the peak instead of pretty sharp Less mass on the new one's as well There is a crew in Belgium teamed up with Stephens Designs the purported PAF guru that basically reverse engineered the saddles and bridge with vintage correct alloy's size and mass Very much hyped as the real deal Johan Segeborn on Utube has some good comparison videos between old and new stuff Gibson and Marshall oriented Thanks again yeah was thinking about trying a kit and wondering if they went traditional or remedied the issue Your build came out good Sorry about the second guy's buyer remorse Cheer's and best wishes for 2023

@@paulcowart3174 theres a company in Canada called precession I believe. I haven't used them yet personally but have had lengthy conversations with few clients who have. They seem convinced anyways. They have a website I was on a year ago or so. I noted they had about a six month wait(actually good news if you think about it) they had option boxes that allowed them to drill for bridge or not. I'd be taking that option. I can't trust anyone it seems with the proper placement. Sure its one thing if the cutter does not know what bridge will be ultimately going on, but when they know and its unable to be adjusted to proper intonation...... Why fret an un radiused fretboard with frets pre-bent to 12 degrees? I dont know either, but I've bought it on ebay lol. Just try as best to know what to look for when the kit arrives. Dont be afraid to go so far as to test the ability for the saddles to be able to be adjusted the full distance within the movable range. Patience will be necessary. Theres a few tools and some accurate measurements that must be made.

Hi! It was pretty fun, but I'm not sponsored so I won't tell you how to make purchasing decisions. I will say the guitar played nice when done, sounds good, and it's my wife's favorite of all the kit guitars I've built.

@@LegacyGuitars my biggest question is did it feel like the wood was pre-fitted. Looked like you did no modding to get the neck in

@@survivealiveofficial4056 Yeah the neck and body were matched very nicely, tight fit.

The 2 LP style kits I finished from stewmac needed no modifications for a great neck fit. The angle follows the top as it should. I'd buy them again. I'd also recommend them to anyone who can do all the necessary things to get a guitar playing good. If you cant do that, better leave it up to someone else for that part at least. You need the following experience to pull it off right. Playing, adjustments, finishing, polishing, wood preparation pore filling etc. Soldering, reading wiring diagrams. Obviously woodworker experience. Be prepared to spend 1 to 2 hundred dollars on finishing supplies alone. Good luck.

@@erickaufmancustomguitars1351 Well said, I agree with your recommendations. These are also low-cost option to learn and experiment on.

Wow.. it’s amazing man. Just got to the end. So great

Thanks!

Hi Raul! Thanks! I'm working on a video replicating a Hendrix Strat right now.

@@LegacyGuitars Aha.. That's good.. 👍👍🇪🇸🇪🇸

Yeah, it would be easier to tape the neck pocket before spraying.

Hi IZZY! For sure a real maple cap would be the quality way to go. Personally, I love using a nice thick cap of some high-quality wood, the look and durability are the way to go long term. Thanks!

All I know is this one, but yah it's a pretty veneer top.

THANKS!!

Thanks, yeah I usually try to wear a mask, forgot there. It wasn't really cold, It's because I had a ton of light on it. It was in the open space of my garage with doors open on both ends, so well-ventilated at least.

The best way to get sharpie off is getting another sharpie wet and wiping it, could light sand if needed. Not too bad

I have built a few kits from Fretwire, I found they both needed more work on the frets, they are doable, but more work yes. Ironic. I've had better luck with the stew mac kits, but that's a small sample size. Who knows over a few hundred kits.

Thank you!

Thanks Sean!

Thanks! The frets on this one were pretty good, all I did was polish them with steel wool.

Good call, and yes its a veneer. I was light with the dye and made sure not to get it too wet at once. A cap is much more forgiving and easier to work with. It's always a risk doing anything with a veneer other than using a finish that just lays on top, anything that soaks in could mess it up. The hardcore woodworkers will tell you veneer work can be the most difficult to master.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Great tip, thanks!

Hey Tim, not my first lol. I've done a lot of guitars from scratch, as well as kits.

@@LegacyGuitars Really? Ever sell any?

@@timhallas4275 Yeah sold many.

@@LegacyGuitars All I see on your youtube channel is that wooden box and two kit guitars. Where can I see all of your scratch builds?

@@timhallas4275 I didn't film every guitar, it's a lot of work :) The box guitar body was from scratch, while I didn't make that neck.

Hi Nikki, thanks! Yeah I know that feeling, I've done many builds where I decide to leave the pickguard off because the wood is so pretty. I kept it here because I was trying to make a replica.

Hi Chris! I was trying to replicate the "Lazarus" Guitar otherwise I would not paint the headstock either, it's not my typical design, but it's what Gibson does.

Hi John! Here ya go: Body Top: ColorTone Liquid Stains - Lemon Yellow Fiebings Black Leather Dye ColorTone Tinted Aerosol Guitar Lacquer - Vintage Amber ColorTone Satin Nitro Clear Body back and sides, back of neck: ColorTone Tinted Aerosol Guitar Lacquer - Cherry Red Color Tone Satin Nitro Clear Neck: Fiebings Black Leather Dye Color Tone Satin Nitro Clear Headstock: Mohawk Nitro - Matte Black Color Tone Satin Nitro Clear

If I build another LP I'm going to do bolt on to avoid that ;)

Lol thanks, Jerry. I just have some tools in my garage and a few hours of spare time. My wife is super cool, and I have a bunch of young kids too. This is a great outlet for me.

It depends on how think you want, I've done them with 1/2 can of clear before, and you can do it with satin. With gloss, you need a thicker coat for buffing.

I don't have a Gibson to compare it to exactly, but I believe it's close, other than the horn.

Hi Opie, thank you! The fit was actually nice and tight, you might see me working on getting it totally in with the glue. For the price, these are great kits, with better fretwork and fit than other kits I've seen and built. I'm not sponsored by Stewmac, but I would make one of these again. Keep in mind the hardware and electronics they come with work fine but they are easy things to make upgrades to when building a kit. A new set of pickups, pots, and switch goes a long way to making these guitars pretty nice.

@@LegacyGuitars thanks for the reply Archie

I didn't have issues, but getting a veneer wet can mess it up, so if you use dye do it lightly and not too wet at once before it can dry.

@@LegacyGuitars Thanks!

Thanks! I actually used some ALnico 5 Fleor humbuckers, they sound great and fit the budget for the project.

It’s just to simulate the wear over time/relic. Purely cosmetic.

Yeah, I actually saw that on a recent video where they did a tour of the Gibson factory, they love nitro. I was surprised they still use it, most other companies are going with this poly finish.

@@LegacyGuitars yeah, nitro provides a shinny and clear finish and that's why they still use it. I also think that, because it chips and ages easier than polyurethane they use it. So u end up fixing or buying a new guitar more frequently, making them more money, but that's kinda theory.

@@christiam1840 I personally like the feel of nitro more, I also enjoy a finish that lets the guitar wear. But I think you are on to something about their strategy.

@@LegacyGuitars yeah I'm with you, that nitro feels good. I like that it feels like a vintage instrument.

Hi Steve, I wanted to. I've done that on a few guitars and they play great, I like how it feels. I know it's not necessary.

Thanks! I didn't check the pickups, they appear to be cheaper, on the website they are listed just as humbuckers. I replaced them with Fleor pickups that are very affordable. I'd recommend upgrading pickups to something you like, kit guitar pickups are typically a place they save some money and it has a big impact on the sound, a simple upgrade too.

I don't think you need to but I use one, got from Stew Mac also.

Stain the fretboard to look darker like the original fretboard, this wasn't rosewood it was Laurel. Also, lots of comments on this, I paint in a garage with a big double door open and a normal door on the other side. I forgot to put on a mask. No kids around while I'm painting.

Have you seen Joe Bonamassa’s Lazarus? Look up the story on it, very cool.

While this may be controversial, it's not unheard of, if you don't like it then don't do it on your guitar.

Thanks! I used the Color Tone Cherry Red Translucent Nitro. I get in from StewMac (I'm not sponsored.) When it goes on over Mahogany which is already a light brown tone, this is what it looks like. I really liked that color too.

Thanks! I actually didn't do pore filling I really like the texture of mahogany with nitro without filling.

@@LegacyGuitars that's fascinating. You're the first I've met who likes no filler on mahogany. I so get it!

Check out MacMull Guitars if you have not seen them they do some really cool finishes with nitro and leave the open grain on mahogany. They have very nice high-end guitars. It's a feel and texture thing for me, feels nice in my hands.@@coreyfleig2139

Thanks Marty! Good question, I remember I used a roller bridge on it and had to fiddle around with it. But I can't remember which one it was, sorry. I don't have the guitar anymore or I'd check for you. Cheers.

Thanks! I used the translucent cherry nitro from color tone. I love how that looks on the mahogany.

@@LegacyGuitarsyeah that cherry looks nice. I got a Tele kit from Stew Mac and it came with 3 sunburst colors. Well I sucked at doing it and I had a LOT of trouble with the Color Tone cans (their fault). They reimbursed me for the nitro. I sent pictures. The black literally ran down my hand while spraying. Glad yours worked. I told them that the cans had 3 different tips between the 8 or 9 cans and only 1 worked. Maybe I got old inventory. It looks from your finish that they’ve resolved it. Nice job.

Yah that sounds crazy, I've not had a problem with the 20+ cans I've ordered, I might go big and get a real spray setup. I can imagine it was frustrating to clean up.@@jugheadjones5458

@@LegacyGuitars glad you’ve had success with the cans. Yes cleanup wasn’t fun. I actually have an inexpensive spray gun that works very well. Make sure you use a water trap. I’ve had a lot of water in my compressor and even with a trap on the gun I’ve had problems with water. Some people use a trap at the compressor outlet AND on the gun. Good luck with your future projects. I’m clear coating today and I need to blow out the compressor. Hope I don’t forget.🤣

Hi Tony! I didn't use any grain filler, since I was leaving the natural wood showing I like the feeling of the grain. Most people will use grain filler if they are going to paint and cover the wood. I also like the style of open grain Macmull Guitars does that on a lot of their very nice guitars.

Hey TR! Yeah I used Stewmac Color Tone Lemon Yellow dye, then black leather dye. Then I used Color Tone tinted Vintage Amber nitro, then satin clear nitro for the front/top of the guitar. For the back and neck I used Cherry Translucent nitro, then satin clear. The headstock was black, then satin clear nitro, all Color Tone I got from Stew Mac.

Yeah, that is my initials. I like using the metallic paint pen, and clear coating over it. Makes for a classy look and then gets sealed in. I did have some logo decals printed on holographic vinyl that I'm using now, which is fun, but it ran me around $25 to have them made. The pen is cost-effective and looks great.

@@LegacyGuitars yeah that's a great idea. I'm no longer ordering waterslides. I don't know why I didn't think of this before.

@@timothydelarosa8261 another trick is to put a piece of painter's tape down to give you a straight line before you write on it. If you mess up it's easy to take some fine grit sandpaper and clean it up. Enjoy!

I've never had a greeny hamburger but i do love a good burger. To your point, it would be interesting to see how pearly gates pickups would sound.

My bad new phone not as smart as I wish them to be.humbucker lol

@@JerrodSchumacher-fc1wr auto-correct is my sworn enemy, I got you. lol.

Don't worry it's solid, going nowhere.

@@LegacyGuitars I think Danny's concern (Hi, Danny!) was that we watched you spray stain and lacquer over the mating surfaces of the neck that must be well joined with glue to their corresponding parts of the body's neck pocket. Unless you sanded these clean later and for some reason did not put that in the video, this will not be a strong joint. PVA or aliphatic resin wood glues will not adhere properly to stain, lacquer, varnish or oil finishes. I notice you used masking tape on many steps of building and finishing this beautiful guitar, which is great. While technically you didn't 'finish' the neck pocket, unfortunately you probably got a lot of overspray in there. Next time tape off all hidden surfaces of the neck joint while you're doing the stain and lacquer and the resulting glue joint will be stronger than the wood. The way you did it, good luck! When it fails, sand the mating surfaces raw before sticking them back together. Another tip: hammer the post anchors in using a dowel instead of a rag. This gives you better control, concentrates the force and will help avoid hammer mishaps. Otherwise, pretty guitar and nice job! I'll shut up now. (And everyone said, "Finally! I thought that guy would NEVER shut up!")

@@markpell8979 thanks for the tips!

@@LegacyGuitars Hey Archie, I hope I didn't sound like too much of a smart-Alec. If so, I sincerely apologize. You have built a lovely guitar (I like the yellow top, I want one like that!) and I hope you get lots of enjoyment from it. If you ever do have to reset that neck just be sure to sand as needed to get raw wood to wood contact inside the joint for the glue. But as tight as that thing fits, I bet you'll be okay. This last tip may seem like sacrilege but actually if you are in doubt at all it wouldn't hurt to put just a couple countersunk wood screws through the back into the neck to lock your glue joint in place. A "hybrid" neck joint? Disregard that if it sounds terrible or aesthetically wrong to you. But keep it in mind. Well-installed screws would not hurt your guitar or its sound. Good luck sir!

@@markpell8979 you're all good man, yeah it turned out great. I've made a lot of cool guitars but that one was my wife's favorite. I really love the color of the translucent cherry nitro on the mahogany back. I'm working on a few new ones right now and filming them, hopefully, I'll have them done and the video up in a few weeks. I'm making an acoustic with an ebony body right now.

I hear ya, I have a door open on one end and a garage door open on the other, and typically do wear one. I have forgotten to put one on sometimes.

I did use a satin clear on it, I've done it with oil many times also. It depends on what feel you like, I'm not a big fan of a glossy poly fretboard I like some wood feel.

@@LegacyGuitars ok. Thank you for the input. I appreciate it. Im new to building and I thought clearing the board was a no no for some reason. That's really good information though. Thanks again.

I sold it.

Hey Jonathan! I did tape but went back with a razor blade to clean it up on the front of the binding. This one is a set neck so there is no heel plate. But you can leave the heel plate off of bolt-on guitars, some high-end brands will drill out a wider hole and inlay a washer, which works well too. I have a friend who even used a threaded insert. I try not to take the neck off unless it's totally necessary.

thanks for your reply Archie. . I got what your saying 👍. this is the same kit you have and and is a set neck also, I think I used incorrect terminology, StewMac included a half moon shape of pickguard plastic to super glue over the heel part of the bottom of the neck that sticks out in a half circle.. I'm going to leave it out (the plastic) I think it looks better like you have it.. thanks again have a happy holiday season, my man.

Thanks for the compliment, however, I'm not taking orders right now.

if you pause the video you can hold your breath longer ;)

ok

While I don't speak the language, thank you!

Hi Dave! Yeah, I do know better, just forgot. Thanks for looking out for me.

And the headstock ofcourse

lol what, I've been playing guitar for 20+ years. Not sure what you are referencing, but the video is about the build not my playing.