As a woodworker for some reason I was expecting to see a common shipping pallet milled with high precision. That would be oddly satisfying.

Looks good! The guys on reddit already explained why you should chamfer your holes before the finish operation, so I'll just leave you with one tip: You should only use three pins to locate your part. Two on the long side, one on the short side. Three points of contact is more reliable and more repeatable than four.

I go to school for machining and I've never seen or thought about making something like that. Happy I found this and you did a really nice job.

We love we use mini pallet hole pattern plates never get tired of watching another one be made even when our favorite of in steel and blanchard ground it really makes no difference wear usage time whatever. Fly cut it well on a balanced machine and away we go. The music helps us enjoy the varied pattern dowel thread dowel thread. Thank you glad we found this channel.

Loving the music. Reminds me of the music they had on the science videos in school when I was a kid :)

I must say its very entertainment to watch the whole thing, even though it's just about drilling holes haha. thanks for showing us.

Nice glad to see you havent given up on making videos

Beautiful work!

Very nice! Separate like for 80s-mood-like music! 😊

As a new subscriber, and from TX,, making the pallet on fast foreword reminded me when I could still do the "TX Two Step",,,hehe,,,Really cool,,,thx,,Bear.

well there's another project I didn't know I wanted... ;)

You could make each hole do double duty as a locating hole and retainer. Take a 12-24 bolt for instance, the tap drill size is .177, if you substitute a .1875 reamed hole, the tap will cut ~50% threads, leaving a flat at the tip of the crest, to locate the dowel pin. There would be sufficient bearing surface to securely locate a 3/16" dowel and enough threads to securely retain a 12-24 clamping bolt. Using M5x.8 bolts and 3/16 dowel pins might make more sense because M5 is a little more common than 12-24.

I've made a lot of sub plates like this where I... 1) drill & tap all the holes, 2) then come back and ream the holes the minor diameter size so you can use a dowel pin or drill blank in any or all of the holes.

Superb video. Thanks for making it....

I wqs imagining one of those wood pallets things get delivered in...... now u gave me a great idea😁

awesome channel!! Subscribed!

On a side note.. dont expect to clamp down on that little piece of aluminum and think your sides are gonna stay square. Your fixture is going to throw your tolerances out because it will warp when you bite down on it. Always make fixtures out of A2.

I was more interested in the background music, that groove man

Was fun to watch

nice work

nice work.

great video keep them coming :)

Maybe I'm missing something, but why call it a "manual" mill, when at 1:36, you show us the CNC programme that's controlling it? Do you mean something else when you say "manual"?

Great Video Chris

Did he deburr the edges after milling ---prior to using the edge finder?

Even if machined, you use normally only 3 Pins as counter :)

Betting on that job you wish you had a tapping head. Set the mill to "forward" and when tap hits depth, it auto reverses at like 4x speed

good job.

Tapping in a drill chuck…. Nice

Question. When I face over the top, moving back reveals that clearance is tighter at the end and loosened up at the beginning of the pass. Why is that ? Everything seems tight. Very noticable with large stock. I would go over from left to right and then left becomes lower when I crank it back.

Thanks for posting this, enjoyed it . You did not specify what material you used. I am guessing an aluminium alloy.

should have chamfered before tapping and reaming operations

Great pallet but how do you clamp the part against the pins?

Hey man, nice video, but say me please what the size the palet ?

Good grief. What was that, like 1100 something actions? The quill probably got warm! Nice work.

Why would chamfer the back sides of the dowel pin holes if they aren't "through" holes? in the sense that nothing is going to come out the back side where you'd need the relief.

I notice that you move from one hole to another very decisively as you're tapping. Are you moving the axes by hand while watching the DRO (which would be impressive, and I'd love to see a video of you demonstrating that skill), or do you have some kind of linear indexing mechanism?

You always chamfer before you tap. Its a miracle your tap survived that.

you should get a tormach pcnc 1100 cnc mill but good work keep it up!!!!

LOL, more like CN assistance than control, they knew how to write software in the '90s even though it looks like the CLI from MS-DOS. Nonetheless, nice pallet, I'll take two! Cheers

what's the music title? nice vid and nice music.

nice job! how long did it take you in real time?

If it was me i would have center drilled, drilled, chamfered all the holes, FLIPPED IT, indicated #1 hole and trammed it to the edge. Then you can use the same program to run the back side. You should only be tapping and reaming on side #2. You get no thread roll and a pefect reamed hole. I was litrerally cringing through that.

One thing to say, thats a lot of holes!

Never find edge on moving jaw of vise!

Nice video and tune! The name of the tune please?

Nice. :)

Manual mill ? Isn’t that cnc you’re using

i like this music haha

What material?

What machine do you use??

Why did you chamfer the underside of the pallet?

Thank you for an interesting video. Was the pallet machined from cold rolled steel? What retains the part to the pallet? I'm only now beginning to enter the world of home hobby machining, with an LMS mini-mill. I'm lucky to have as a mentor a machinist who has been working in the trade for more than 60 years! I can't ask him everything though. Good thing for me there's an internet!

Very nice job, those can be very useful. one nit pick though. You should get into the habit of zeroing you part on the fixed jaw of you vise. Not doing so can bite you on the ass if your making multiple parts or parts that need to be interchangeable.

Hey Chris, great vid! I'm a budding machinist and still have much to learn. Quick question: does your manual mill have automatic Z control? If not, how did you thread those holes accurately by hand plunging? I'm curious to know how to do this! Thanks!

great idea and execution, brother. But we didn't need to see every freaking hole plunge!

also referred to as a 'sub plate'

"Manual mill" lol

it says "on manual mill" in title but it s sure looks like it's moving with some kind of cnc because it goes to each hole and not every other one. is this a cnc'd manual mill?

How do you not have any backlash in your machine? To be able to accurately move back and forth on the X without ballscrews is usually a backlash nightmare!

What are the taped holes for?

why chamfer the backside of the post holes if you stopped the reamer shy of the back side?

milling with quill down is lazy and a great way to loosen head up. fail

Seems to be CNC not manual.

Advise to raise after edge finder touch the workpiece.

Why aluminum....the worst one can use for fixtures..not sure what threads in there but 10-24 the other guy used seems awful small for clamping, if it was me, 3/8 would be the minimum....thanks for sharing.

Weren't you concerned about chips getting into the tap and ruining your thread?

You say "manual mill". Are we talking conversational control?

AL or Steel？

"Manual" mill

0:30 Did you really just use WD40 to lubricate an end mill?

Very nice video. Horrible background music!

nothing agaisnt you but you could have won some time by not pre-drilling the hole :)

Well there's an amateur for you. In nearly every way.