Thanks Amir! I do plan on doing a future video on the bolting process for this type of neck joint as well as a couple others. Thanks for following along! :) -Zach

Thanks Don! That will likely be a future video. ;) I’ll attach the neck with two bolts through the heel block - I’d imagine you could glue it, but that would make it much less serviceable. I’m a fan of fully bolt-on necks because if the guitar ever needs a neck reset or it needs the neck removed for whatever reason it’s as simple as taking the bolts off.

@@treehouseguitars makes perfect sense … i know my Everett could benefit from a reset of the neck but its a massive job and finding the right shop to do it is difficult, were it a lot on it wouldn't be as huge an issue ...

@@docsiltanen Yeah exactly. Bummer!

@@treehouseguitars I still don‘t understand how you use bolts here. Looking forward to a next video showing this.

@@joloka - Check out the two part video series we did on executing the bolt-on neck joint. It’s very detailed and it should answer any questions you may have. :)

Hey Tim! Thanks :) Yeah, I'd be happy to help - so the angle of the neck (up and down AND side to side) is established before routing the mortise and tenon. I flatten an area on the body just a bit bigger than the heel, then I have a jig above my belt sander that has micro adjustments in every direction which basically allows me to dial in the correct neck angle. Then once I have the angle I sand it to the length (plus tenon). This way the router templates for the mortise and tenon are registering on the mating surfaces of the heel and body. There are also stops on the jigs that line them up perpendicular to the top and the top surface of the neck. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have any questions. :) -Zach

Glad you like it! I made the two templates out of acrylic. The opaque one has actually been thinned down so that I don’t have to adjust my router between the body and neck. This way my mortise ends up slightly deeper than the tenon. When making the acrylic templates I just made sure to file/sand them slowly until I got to where I wanted. The width and depth of the tenon doesn’t matter much unless you are needing to fit barrel bolts into the tenon. The router bit is just a 1/2” diameter x 1” length template bit so it copies your acrylic templates perfectly (unlike using a guide bushing in a router base). Hopefully that explanation wasn’t too confusing. Let me know if you have other questions. :) -Zach

Great question - I just carefully score the acrylic with an x-acto knife then drill out most of the material and file/sand up to my scored lines. I use calipers to bring the cutouts in my templates to the dimensions I want. So I really don’t do it in any fancy way, just carefully by hand. A CNC would make quick work of an accurate acrylic routing guide! :) -Zach

@redtreecollectiveguitars Hi , Thanks for the reply . That's great to know - a CNC would be marvellous for all sorts, but it's reassuring to know that it's not mandatory and that there is no need to spend a fortune on shop bought templates - your work is amazing and I love that it's CNC free - I'm building my first guitar atm so your videos are a huge help - thanks again

I’m glad you’re getting something out of our videos! :) Definitely no need for a CNC machine to make accurate jigs. Just careful attention to detail!

Hi - Can I ask you one more question ? I see people all over KZfaq with neck angle jigs for routing the neck angle in the tenon and shoulders of the neck where it meets the body - am I correct in saying that with your method of routing the tenon - where the tenon routing template is screwed to the end of the tenon - it does away with the need for a jig altogether as you are routing off of the angle of the end of the tenon and therefore routing the correct angle in the shoulders also - it seems so simple and effective and yet people go to all this trouble of assembling a giant jig to achieve the same outcome - am I missing something ?@@redtreecollectiveguitars

@@hereasafanofallsorts5164- Haha, yes you are correct! No big jig necessary. The correct angle is achieved before routing the tenon therefore a parallel rout gives you the same angle and usually perfect heel cheeks. I’m not sure why this isn’t the norm in the industry honestly - it only makes sense. -Z

No, otherwise a straightedge would work. The protrusion that contacts where the bridge goes is the same as the neck joint protrusion, but the one that’s at the nut is 2mm bigger. That means the headstock will be slightly tipped towards the back of the guitar… if that makes sense. This makes the strings at just the right height over the top (about 12mm).

@@zachlefebvre4825 Thank you very much

Hey! Not sure which templates you mean. I made all of them - the scale length templates were duplicated from a CNCed fretboard template, mortise and tenon routing jigs I made by drilling out acrylic and filing/sanding it to my lines/dimensions. Does that answer your question?

Great observation! Yes, all my guitars have fully bolt-on neck joints with no glue. With these guitars (with F-holes, not round soundholes) I use a long tool through the end pin hole to tighten the bolts. The bolts fit through the soundport on the side. Hope that answers your question!

@@treehouseguitars it blows my mind... perhaps, we need an extra video for seeing that in real, words didn't help me so much...

I (Eric) have posted a video on here for you in response to this question. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/arhdbM6F29e3f2g.html

@@redtreecollectiveguitars yeah! Already Saw it today. Tx for sharing your knowleges