Man, you do SPECTACULAR work! This video is a keeper because it taught me how to do concrete, roads, sidewalks, and weathered steel. Man, you're good.

That bridge is "WAY cool", and the different textures really add interest. SUPER job Jason!

Jason, you are definitely a master at creating a realistic looking project. Keep up the good work! Thanks for sharing the videos.

That salt and baking soda rust technique is pure genius. And I don't even want to say how much time and money I spent for 3 sets of bridge piers that you just built out of Styrofoam.

Another Master class in painting and weathering! Thank you sir!!

Jason - you're a marvel! This is a real masterclass and totally inspiring. Thanks for sharing.

Wooooow amazing work, Jason! I love this bridge. Its a masterpiece

I think this is your best tutorial yet! fantastic explanation of your modeling and specifically your weathering techniques. Thanks so much for doing theses.

Everything you do inspires me. I can't wait to start a layout of my own. I know I will be using a lot of your ideas and skills. I'm looking at about six months before I can begin but have already been thinking about bench work and track plans. I spend a lot of time going back over older videos of yours and other modelers on U tube. Thanks again.

I cant believe werr not seeing more of this great product on some of these layout videos.

Everything I was hoping for, Jason. A great video showing you working with a magnitude of products and materials.

Fantastic Jason, enjoyed that, very inspiring, I'll definitely look into trying the road surface technique on my model railway. Thanks for sharing.

Your amazing. Just wow. Nice work.

I just have to say "wow". That salt chip rust is beautiful. I'm definitely going to have to try this.

I really enjoyed watching you great this bridge. I think all you creations are amazing.

love your weathering methods, I am learning a lot from you , thank you Sir :)

Brilliant detailed 'how to' video. I still have so much to learn.

Great job Jason, concrete detail is outstanding, looks awesome, . . . very inspiring ! thanks for the vid. , Brian

wow that AK interactive stuff is amazing looking! I didnt think id make it thought this while video, but it was super interesting thanks or all the great techniques!

Looks great!

Awesome Harbor Scene Jason! I love your videos. Thanks, Russ from Oregon.

This is some next lvl modeling well done sir you have my attention.

What a great episode Jason. I'm kinda late seeing it, as I try to catch up with your older videos. The "drone" shots at the end were fantastic; I hadn't seen that area in such detail before. The bridge looks superb. It looks like the original kit was pretty smart to start with, then the kit-bashed element took it to another level. The weathering was the good stuff though. It would be very interesting to see the whole structure in place, but completely unpainted. The difference that detail work makes is amazing. The AK asphalt potholes are the best I've seen and the exposed re-bar was genius.👍👌😁 Thanks for another hour of inspiration and entertainment, even if it does leave me feeling a wee bit inadequate.😂 Cheers for now, Dougie.

Thanks for uploading this Jason....I'm not a railway modeller but I thoroughly enjoy your eye for detail and, who knows, I may end up making a railway scene at some point? Once again, many thanks and keep them coming!!

Great work, thanks for sharing

Your work is inspirational!

Jason, really great video. Your techniques used are very easy, but it's like you said that it takes times. The results are worth the time invested in the project. Thank you so much for sharing this video and love that old AHM kit, that's a blast from the past. Very well done and will be referring back to this video for a couple of projects I am planning. Thanks for sharing Muse

Excellent work! I will have a very long bridge with a vertical lift section on my layout, and will put these techniques to use. Thanks for sharing! BTW... those little pedestals the bridge spans rest on are called "bridge shoes."

Beautiful work, Jason. FYI, the support fixtures are called bridge shoes. One suggestion from an amateur engineer. The cross structure at the top of the bridge is the counter balance to off set the weight of the roadway. Usually it's a big chunk of granite. Again, great work, thanks for letting us come along for the ride. Mike

I love watching your videos, great work, respect from Bangkok

Jason - Another Masterclass on adapting a kit, weathering and just the correct colour schemes to make everything look convincing. I wish that in England we had the craft stores and kits freely available that you seem you have in America and Canada.

Stumbled upon your channel ,so glad I did. Awesome work mate. I'm still at the spilling paint on the carpet and glueing my fingers together stage

best modeling video i seen

I've seen salt used for paint chipping but you're the first one I've seen use baking soda. Looks great. Really nice technique. End result is worth the effort of all the work! 👍

Sir, from the perspective of a civil engineer and interested in bridges, the pieces you held as going under the ends of any bridge are called bridge shoes. Under one end of a bridge, they will be pinned and stiff; under the other end, they should be rollers to allow for thermal expansion and contraction without stress to the structure. They should be oiled or greased if taken care of and maintained. This type of bridge is a rolling bascule. It usually is located where the clearance is wanted vertically and the opening to be as wide as possible without having to build a longer span; as it rolls back it also opens. The areas of the gears should be very dark almost totally black as these areas get greased to reduce friction and wear. There should be oil and grease running and dripping from along these locations as no one will take the time to clean these areas. From a wear standpoint and help keep the concrete from cracking and breaking, there should be narrower strips of steel on the bridge and approaches on the sidewalks like on the pavement. The overhead part would be filled with concrete to form a counterweight for the moveable span. All of the weight of the span is carried on the quadrants as the span rolls and opens. I just happened to come across your video on 4/15/22. I am not trying to disparage your modeling, on the contrary; I thought you might be interested in more details of the bridge for your models.

I must say, catching up on your videos, I have learned a lot of techniques and tips! However, this has to be my favorite video to date!!! I have watched 1k+ (probably more) Model Railroading videos and first I have heard of 'salt chipping'. It is phenomenal!!! I will be using this method for my bridges on my layout. I also had not heard of AK Asphalt, definitely going to give it a go, liked the peeling affect. This video is tremendous and so glad I found this channel! An epic video of tips and techniques!

Hi Jason that's one rusty old Bridge! I was going to plant mine down out of the box lol nar ! Out comes the paints lol have no trains yet but im building mines , and houses so I get a feel for the era 30s to 50s so I know where I can lay my track, lol you sir are making me think outside the square, thanks for sharing, Down Under Australia 👍👍👍👍

Amazing

This just looks awesome, you are truly talented. Love your "how-to" videos. Best regards from Denmark Mikkel

Jason those black things are called Bridge Shoes. Once again another amazing build ...

So inspiring, I'm still at the novice level but this gives me so much motivation for my layout!

i love this!! i learn something new each time i watch your videos! Great work brother!

I stumbled across your KZfaq channel recently and have been enjoying watching all your build videos. Very nice work! It was especially nice for me to see you using some of my old Paper Creek brick and wood sheets. You’re right, we are out of business and have been since about 2010, but it’s nice to see that our products still have some life left in them! Cheers, and keep up the great work! George

this inspires me to plan a pre-war era layout, this is really neat. Great work and Happy Holidays

simply amazing. Several months ago I remember you saying there was going to be a bridge there and a rolling lift bridge was exactly what came to the front of my mind. Sure, a draw bridge would probably match the scene better but wouldn't look as interesting as the choice you made. Looks like an old AHM kit, pretty rare these days. I grabbed one off ebay several tears ago and paid a lot more for it than it cost when it was in production. There is an option to motorize that kit too. I hope you add lots of birds to the bridge, maybe a good place for flock of pigeons to congregate, along with all of the birdy byproducts, lol. 1 important thing to think about is the water, if you plan to use an epoxy, I hope all of that foam work is well sealed. even a slight pin hole and it will eat that foam in places and that would make me cry. please be careful. Cant wait to see the next installment. This is some of the best work yet Jason. Thanks for sharing, Rob

Ventured over to this channel on a recommendation from Doug Foscale. Wanted to see what you will do with the building he's sending you & also wanted to check out your videos. Had to see this one first, on suspicion that it would be the AHM/IHC/Faller bridge. It's a favorite of mine & I always like to see what people do with it. You did well with it. There are two going in on my layout. One will have an overhead wire for the electric locomotive serving the line, the other I wasn't too sure about. After this video, I think it will be a vehicle bridge. I look forward to checking out more of your videos. Also subscribed. Regards!

Great work Jason. I've only just come across your channel and I'm impressed! Your weathering and detailing methods are superb. Your use of everyday items (salt & baking soda) is inspiring. Reminds me of Martin at marklinofsweden channel.

I really love the amount of work done to the bridge, I'm just wondering how exactly one like that lifts up? I think that there's usually a structure where someone watches for boats for similar styles.

That was a real amazing build great products you used. Wonderful techniques. I had one question/comment on the bridge deck. Most decks that get lifted are grates for weight issue. But I have seen paved bridges when the don’t move anymore. But it turned out great. And the mistake it’s an old bridge that needs work anyway so it is actually more realistic.

Amazing, just last week I bought a lot of build stuff to overhaul and make it beautiful again. No idea how these kind of coincidences work, but this kind of bridge is one of them. Although it looks very similar, in my case there is a prebuild base too, where unfortunately the mechanism is missing. I'm just a beginner, but does your bridge look amazing! Will be one of my projects this winter. Think I'm going to watch your video a few times more haha. Great job!

The bridge color is called "Surf". I have a can of it at the house. The name is on the label to the left of the word "Matte". I like the color on your bridge.

Jason that is a great Idea to use an old kit. You better clean your platte off. That is a Dirty Platte.

Love it. It looks great! Not sure if I would have used the Krylon paint!

An absolute gem! Picked up some great tips looking over your shoulder. Suggestion: some sort of barricade on the island/near side to prevent cars from driving off the open bridge. Cheers.

That rust looks so realistic, I'm tempted to take a wire brush and scraper and go to work on it, and give it an overdue paint job. It's definitely better than the rust effects I've been trying to do on a lumber yard shed...which, as soon as time permits, I will make a third attempt to correct. (The shed is based on a metal frame, and I used aluminum foil cut in scale 4X8 pieces for the siding, and corrugated it by running the foil over 3/8" bolt threads...and it looked good until I started weathering it. Looks like I'm gonna have to shoot gray primer on it and start over.)

This looks amazing! I love your techniques! Another Subscriber right here :D

No way you made a mistake I really don't believe that lol Looks great thank you for sharing how to

Interesting.... using the salt technique for doing rust. Often, I just sponge it on over the base and weathered colors, or most of the time I switch between the hairspray technique or use liquid mask. But I’ve never heard of using baking soda. That ended up with a really nice rusty metal with rust bubbling up under the paint. I think the material you used for the rebar was perfect for damaged structural elements. I’m sure you already know that screen is perfect for re-enforcing mesh that you might find in damaged sidewalks/paths and concrete roadways. One trick I’ve “come up with” for making raw XPS have an older, pitted concrete texture, is to press (in this order) 220, 150 then 80 grit sand paper into it. Typically, with the 80, I just press it in randomly with my fingers or various shapes of XPS that I’ve given a convex “pressing face”. You can get some really awesome effects. But I’ve always had the mentality that if you make it look awesome from 12” away, it will look absolutely amazing from four feet. Cool build. Thanks for sharing your tips and work. 👍👍

Hello Jason, the bridge is outstanding. I love the AK asphalt product. One question, and forgive me if I missed it, at the beginning you said your friend was sending you a kit to accompany the plastic bridge kit. I didn’t see that. Did I miss that? Again, another outstanding tutorial. I was thinking watching your coffee cup, you need a small electrical warming plate. You can get them for single cups. Maybe Santa can bring it. Merry Christmas to you and yours. See ya next time.

I really enjoy your video. I like the different techniques that you did with the rust and cracks. Do you have a video on the finished harbor?

Another inspiring project. Well done Jason. Can I ask where you get your vintage autos? Thanks for your efforts and thanks for sharing.

I’d love to see you make something from the sprues. I’ve seen it done on other channels and I’d love to see what you could do with them 👍🏻

I sure wish I had just a little bit of talent!

I like how you use blue foam and wire mesh to create model rebar broken concrete.

Another great video. I'm almost through your entire uploads! What brand of brushes are those, for your pastels?

The mackinac Bridge is painted from 1 end to other. And once they finish they start again. The bridge is so long it takes long time to paint. So if there is rust on a bridge it's due to lack of maintaining it. Or it's abandoned or out of use. Especially with all the safety inspections done now of days due to metal fatigue and or part failure do to rust and cracks.

Just like me, building a model railroad layout with no trains yet. Lol.

How do you get the Chalk to be powdery on the brush I just bought a set and they do not produce a power on the brush to add?

I've been in the Hobby since 1974... It's good to keep seeing new things! I've never used Chalk Paint or AK Interactive Asphalt. I love the "old Asphalt" Road look that seems to be easy to do. Is that Bridge going to operate? If so, wouldn't you want to represent thick grease, on the Cogs and Rail. Your Weathering techniques are fantastic!! Carmine ✈🚂🚙

Jason, about a year and a half back. I was watching one of your videos when you were bridging your dock section. During this video, you were installing and weathering a bridge that you painted Green Blue. The paint you used was AMMO F-543. You applied a specific weather/aging tench on the bridge. Can you direct me to that specific Vedic. FYI...the video isn't this video titled "Making a rolling bridge for our model railroad.". Yjamnk you in advance...

Super awesome Jason, love the bridge and concrete is spot on. For the mistake why don't you put a tiny piece of mat board there like a chip on the sidewalk broke out. When you get to the rest of the bridge, AK makes an oil effects that would make it look greasy on the rack part. Just a thought, love them "happy mistakes". At first I thought that that aqua color was wrong, but it fits the color scheme perfect. Was that news papers on the bridge I saw? God Bless Ya Dave

For stiff brushes, after cleaning them, let them air dry. Or, take some Elmers glue and place it gently on your brush. That will stiffen the bristles.

Jason great job!! What type of glue did you use to join the plastic to the wood roadbed? Thanks

Were the metal strips at the ends of bridge where it ties into the main road a bought product or scratchmade

I was thinking of buying one of those hot wire foam cutters. Can you tell me what foam you're using in this video and where you would buy it. It looks very smooth on the surface. Thanks and well done on the video. By the way, I modified this same bridge kit a few years ago to make a two track railroad lift bridge. I never finished it completely, but looking to finish now on a new section of layout I installed recently. Not sure if you can post a photo on these comments or I would send a photo of what I have done already. Thanks. Philip

I'm using this technique on a bridge on my layout. You continue to help me be a better modeler! Thank you! Is the reason you use salt and baking soda because it partially dissolves in the water? Would sand work as well?

Hi Jason, I know this is an old video, but is there a Americana substitute for the Chalk paint ? Can't get that brand here in Holland.

Where did you get the AK ashfault product? Also have you found the florescent lights fading or changing the colors of the acrylic paints? Bob

Jason I want to thank You for the great job You're doing with Your layout! Look I have a couple of O scale build-up buildings from mth, but I need more advice in order to weather them properly! I have a model bank building from MTH and want to weather it, but don't know how to start doing it! Since it's a build-up structure I don't know which color I should use to primer it, if it has to be! The building has a light yellow color! Could You provide some contact info for me to send You a picture of the building? Keep up your great job!

Yes been there a lot I build 1/25th models and had a front end problem with small parts Went to bed at 11 and dreamed about it Well my mind saw how to do it So I woke up at 3 Am and glued the front end up

Jason, the HBO show His Dark Materials, episode ‘the armour,’ is set in a seaside town. Lotsa weathering very similar to your work. Is your town based on a real location? Oh, and mucho thanks for your videos. Your passion is oh so evident 👍

Hi Jason! I discovered your channel just before the quarantine malarky. Weathering and aging models is something I'm working on getting better with. And you have provided a huge amount of inspiration for me! I gotta say, using Chalk Paint is something I never would have thought of! Now having said that I have to ask a question. I work in several mediums for an HOn30 layout I'm working on. I prefer to work with wood whenever possible. After all, wood will always look like wood! But I want my models to have a uniform appearance, regardless if the models are from wood, plastic or metal (representing wood construction). What would you recommend to make plastic look like old, weather-beaten, painted wood on plastic? Such as some old time narrow gauge passenger cars. Would Chalk Paint be an option for that?

Is that just water you’re spraying on the bridge parts before sprinkling on the salt and baking soda?

Could you recommend a set of pastel chalks

Jason I want to know if there are some particular colors of acrylic paints more suitable for replicating either wood or metal structures. For example, I recently bought some acrylic turquoise and aquamarine paints! Are those more appropriate for wooden structures? And sorry for my insistence, but why You don't use tube paints! Have You tried out Art Deco structures? Regards, Robert.-

The Tool you are using at 28:00, is that a hot wire? Sorry this is all new too me. Your attention to detail is amazing, loving your videos.

First time I've come across this channel, so glad I did. As a beginner videos like this are a massive help. Very detailed and intuitive. What salt do you use? Is it sea salt or just plain old ordinary salt? Thanks for sharing, it's a like and sub from me 👍

What chalks do you use?

I built a similar bascule bridge for the Northern Lights Model Railroad Club kitbashing like you have. I did not mike it operatable.

did you motorize your bridge ? or leave it manual ?

Should put thinner piece of wood in center. You'll get better measurements for sidewalk and road

Another Great Video Jason....Just Amazing,I am learning so much....i bet its not the first cup of coffee today ?? :-)

Those "black dot pieces" are called bridge shoes.

FLI the bridge rests on bridge shoes.

Great job but the bridge is missing a counterweight

A pro tip from someone thats a bad modeller, but often works with old rusty junk, you will never, NEVER, see rust on the working part of a gear or the rail it roll on. Those will be greased down. You will also not see paint. Also, to make something look really worn out, put in some newly painted things, like a new barrel or a door. It makes the rest look even better. And people do add new shit to old junk. And you are a painter? The way you talk about colors? A true artist.

Black coffee Any sugar ?

You're really good at weathering.. and I'm learning a lot, up until the end of your videos. But just an observation about your layout... aren't you weathering everything too much? Looks like nobody cleans anything up in that town. Just being honest.

I had skipped past this video which was a big mistake. I had asked a question about using craft acrylic paint on plastics as the pigment content is lower than modelling acrylics. I see you don't always prime your models, neither do you Dulcote them for protection. That's presumably because they will not be handled very much. Articles I have seen and read suggest craft acrylics won't adhere to plastic which is obviously not the case. The salt and baking soda techniques are fascinating and just knock the model out of the park. Thanks and we'll done.

Its easier with a stiff toothbrush....