Thank you, I appreciate it ! This was a lot of work

Appreciate the good words ! Thank you for watching :)

It goes much faster with the three of us !

+Buddy Helms Thank you ! It was a blast to make as well.

Thank you for the good words ;) I haven't been very disciplined with my uploading, which is probably why I'm still relatively unknown !

Ahh, that explains it. I hope you have some more content coming. I just mentioned you on the episode #6 podcast (will be out in a few weeks) at craftedpodcast.com

Thanks ! I keep editing in my spare time, so there is more coming in the next few weeks.

Thank you Richard ! I have been busy with a move, but I have a video in the works for a contemporary coffee table, stay tuned !

Thanks Matt! Love your work as well !

nick sainsbury in all honesty, no particular reason other than I had it and it was quick. The inside of the dust frames are made with plywood also (only place where there is plywood, since the drawer bottoms are solid and the back is shiplapped cedar).

The grain for all of the casework is oriented in the same direction. For the dust frames between the drawers, they are only glued at the front of the case and float in the back.

It's a carpenter's mallet from Lee Valley (www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=50229&cat=1,41504,43688). Cast brass head with wooden face. It's an absolute pleasure to use all around the shop !

Mike Fischer they do indeed. I am not sure if it's common with traditional Shaker furniture, but they are called dust shield and are here to close the drawer tops to prevent dust from accumulating inside the drawers. Also prevents clothes from dropping through the next drawer.

Hugo Danilo I have another video in the works, was hoping to have it up before advertising further! Shouldn't be more than a few weeks though! Thanks !

Finish is Tried & True Original Wood Finish. It's a mix of boiled linseed oil and bee's wax. It's quite the workout to apply, but gives a very smooth to the touch and close to the wood feel.

I don't have detailed plans, but I could give you the outside dimensions since I have a CAD file of the outside. The rest of the dimensions you would need to interpolate.

That would be fantastic! Are all the drawers the same size?

Nope, that would be too easy ;) They range from 5 1/2" at the top to about 9" at the bottom, in 1/2" increments.

Lol well it looks like you did a great job. If you get a chance I would love the dimensions of the outside. Thanks for the help

You can find the overall dimensions here www.dropbox.com/s/92e4kugp89bkp8k/ShakerChest.pdf?dl=0 .

I don't recall the exact height, but this was in the neighborhood of 66".

@@junado thank you little too tall for me I'm only 5'

What step was that ? Perhaps I can help.

​@@junado The dadoed, stopped dovetail sockets in the stiles. I will be cutting some in a small chest of drawers I am making. I see a lot of folks don't dado, but then it seems that the rails could be off a little if they depend only on the dovetail for positioning. (Shown at 6.1)

​@@rickreed123 I built a nightstand version of this chest of drawer this year and improved a bit on the technique, let me try to break it down here and please let me know if anything is unclear. Your side panels should be milled with at least a final reference edge at the top or the bottom (you will reference your dadoes from this edge) and typically a bit wider than their final width to account for tearout / cleanup. You will use a router bit that will cut the dado width in a single pass, as this makes the process a lot easier (you can reference off the center of your bit for both cuts). If you have two routers with identical baseplates, I would set one up with the dado bit and one with the dovetail bit. I laid both side pieces flat on a workbench, with the insides facing up, back to back. Leave about an inch of space between both pieces, using spacers, and clamp both side pieces together. The space in between both pieces will be used to start the dovetail cut in the back. I then used setup blocks to reference the bottom edge of the case side pieces to clamp a straightedge in place, then route away. Make sure your straight edge is square to the case. If you have a single router (I did), I would route all the dadoes, then switch to the dovetail bit and route the dovetail slots. You have to route the dovetail slot in one pass, so you should expect a bit of tearout, which is why I leave the panels a little wide a this stage. A few more tips : - Make your dovetail cut as deep as the rabbet that will house the back. This makes for a cleaner look on the back of the cabinet (it hides the joinery). - Consistency is a lot more important than accuracy. If your dovetail cut is a little off center on your first cut, make sure it is consistent across all joints. This will make cutting the male part of the joint a lot less fiddly. - Leave your drawer separator parts thick when milling, you will need to fit them to your dado (not the other way around). - Do not glue the sliding dovetail in the back of the case, nor the sides of the frame to the case. This allows your case sides to expand/contract relative to the separator frames. I hope this cleared things up a bit.

@@junado Thank you so much for the information. I will let you know how it goes.

I agreed, just so annoying.