Man does this look familiar... I made one a couple months back. I like your creativity in the face of limited tooling/machine options. Nicely done! PS. You can use the ball end of the rod for squareness comparison. I use it all the time with great results

last time I was this early I stayed in an incubator for 3 months

"I'm very happy with the way it turned out" "Artisan Makes" You and me both. That looks so much nicer than if I tried to make it! The best part for me is all the little short cuts or thinking outside the box with what is at hand to get a final result. That is by far my favourite channel for a person like me. Keep up the good work!

Extremely well build! The surface finish with the fly cutter is excellent. Like it!

Time for some saturday night quality content I see! Great video as usual!

Great job! I wanted to see a surface gauge build like this ever since Tony said he'd make one years ago, but he never did. This totally scratched that itch. Thank you so much, it turned out amazing!

I have so much respect for hand sawing all your stock that’s crazy

Brilliant video mate the final piece looked awesome and functions really well. Hopefully it won’t be long before I’m in the new shop and back machining again

Impressive machining. Love to see it!

Amazing as always. Thanks foir the inspiration.

Good job as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

Got there in the end dude, thanks for sharing 👍

Turned out really well.

A very good project. Awesome work and a wonderful result!

That's an awesome shop made tool!!!

someone get this man a band saw!

Awesome build!

Well done. 👍

Great work 👌

Very nice work indeed.

Fantastic

nice work, thanks for sharing 🙂

Looks great!! Id be well chuffed

Nice job, enjoyed the video thanks!

Fine job. You do nice work, for sure.

Since the centre of the bottom has more surface contact than the edges, there's already a tendency to rock. This will gradually get worce as you slide it around and things wear. I would mill out the centre a little bit, so the base touches at the corners rather than the centre. This will result in 4 feet. You could go for 3...

Good build, it looks very well done. The circular front bump can probably be retrofitted by turning a piece, cutting it and attaching it to base with dowel pin and Loctite.

you can use ball bearings as contact points, first you make flat spots on bearings then press it into the holes in the bottom of the body then you need to bring them to one plane with fine sand paper you can do it on a surface plate but i would like to use paper tape to prevent grit from sandpaper to damage surface plate

Well done.

PLEASE Please make those plans available!!! So cool!!

Well done looks great and will be very handy in the shop Cheers.

Inheritance Machining has a similar surface gauge build, although his is far more sophisticated. I'm stoked that it can be done on these machines too with reasonable accuracy. Awesome video!

Really nice build, you should be extremely proud! I would love to see you build a power-hacksaw as a project! I think it's going to save you a lot of time in future.

Excellent job. You could use fine sandpaper with double sided tape on your surface plate. Works extremely well. Robin does that too. I go up to 2500 grit, gives a fine lapped surface.

The little round ball on the end of the vertical shaft is there so you can use it as a squareness comparator. No need for a dowel pin or a rounded front surface.

Creative video, thanks :)

lots of hacksaw action in this one :)

Outstanding work, as usual. I continue to be impressed by your range of skiggity skizzilz. CAD is something i've not yet been able to grasp. EDIT: You can use the fact that it's not hardened to your advantage here. It would be very easy to hand scrape the bottom surface to "perfect" flatness because it's not hardened. This can always be re-done should it be damaged at any time in the future. Hand scraping a small flat square like that would take hardly any time at all, and would yield outstanding results!

Very nicely done Godbless

You can knurl with a rotary table fitted with a chuck and a standard end mill. Just set things up such that the square edge of the end mill hits the work piece offset to make a perfect V, index and repeat.

Thanks for the upload and good work. I really need to start doing CAD my picture drawing is starting to get slack and is always hard to explain to people the vision. Also a DIY method of surfacing is using a piece of glass on a table and a piece of sandpaper (used on engines where a surfacing machine isn't always available and done right you can get great results)

Nice Work 5*

Nice video man. i´ll do it!

A power hacksaw would be a great addition for all the cutting he does.

Lovely looking surface gauge,turned out really nice. Rather than just a flat bottom it is better to rebate machine the middle portions away and leave only 3 or 4 contact feet on the bottom of your surface block (inserting 3 press fit ball bearings into milled socket holes in the base is another method). If going for the flat feet pads then finish the raised feet by lapping with very fine wet and dry paper on a flat plate with parrafin or WD40 for lubricant. On the point of Knurling you will get much better results with a 'scissor' type knurler. you are struggling with the pressure type knurler because your mini lathe doesn't have sufficient rigidity in the head bearing for you to be able to apply enough inward feed pressure.

"windows need to be activated" i love it 😄

I love how you use the tools you have to do the job. I've used woodworking router bits in all kinds of crazy ways. This was a cool project

26:38 The paste is a non-drying paste. So you can use mineral oil instead of linseed oil which dries fast. You have to note that the blue particles are submicron in commercial blues. You should make the paste and then crush it a lot.

We’ve got to get our boy here a horizontal bandsaw.

nice job. I was going to suggest making a little arbour to take that thread on the piece you missed so you could hold it in the lathe, but you got there in the end.

Nice build! A case hardening and it will be a Starrett look alike.

For countersinks try and see if you can find some zero flute countersinks. They leave better finishes than other types and also cause less chatter.

if u have/ get a decent DRO, anilam and accurite for sure have it, the "mill arch" function you can step/plunge cut any size radius without a rotary table.. have to belt sand or file down the scales after but something to look into for future

Gerday mate, cool vid, very well done and gr8 editing, saw everything and was informed as well as entertained. Keep up the gr8 work mate. Peace out. Wayne PS, saw the same tool made by Inheritance Machining where he said that this tool was an apprentices assignment, but didnt say which year. By the difficulty I'd say it was probabily final year end of year exams as I don't feel it to be any less.

I always enjoy watching you work. You have even more stuff than I do for metal working, although I do have a bandsaw. Do you resist using one just so you can show off your skills with the hacksaw, Haha. Very nice video. When my mill arrives, I will be doing a much of tool making stuff for both it and my lathe, and once I have some competency with the mill, I will be building one of these. I have one made of wood now, and you can image what a jewel it is ;-)

It seems like a surface gauge with 3 small widely spaced contact points would be the least likely to deviate from the plane of your surface plate especially if it wears unevenly over time.

SHAG that hacksaw! LOL! I swear you'll lose your branding when you upgrade to a power tool, matey. Something else: I don't know if it was Tony or Myfordboy that used FILING BUTTONS to assist on those hand filing accurate radii....but it's something you might consider Love your vids. Keep em coming. Great stuff. Live well, be well. See you next Saturday!

Красиво получилось.

It looks great. As nice as any of the "professional" ones I've seen made on YT.

You should make a hand knurler. I made one, it is perfect for smaller already parted pieces like knobs. If you want a copy of plans let me know I can pdf the one I did.

And, regarding the round end for the surface gauge / missing rotary table: if you have a disc sander, just weld a piece of rod (8mm or so) on a piece of steel (a flat or a plate works fine). Weld from the other side to not have welds on the side where the rod sticks out. Then drill an according hole into your part that needs to be round. Clamp the plate onto your disc sander‘s table and put the work piece onto it. You can now rotate and sand it round. Tap it closer to the sanding disc to reduce the diameter. Works really well for making round pieces 😃

Very nice little project, now having seen a few of your video's I get the distinct impression that hacksawing stock by hand is something you do onn purpose as a daily workout. (props for eco friendly and not taking the easy way) I wouldnt have wanted to saw those big chunks and especially not the stainless

base is important and the stick holder is more important, make sure the hole is precise for the stick, if it shakes, and indicator will move a lot, so touch the top of the stick lightly and watch the indicator and make sure it is precise or not.

Nice to hear the Currawongs talking away outside.

Fantastic job man. It turned out very good. You might consider polishing the bottom by running it over various grits of sandpaper laid flat on the BACK of a piece of glass. Its the flattest part because it was poured as molten salt.

When filing a radius, move the file in an opposing radius. Dont have the file move parralel to the intended curve you are filing. Instead imagine the file is following an invisible circle that is touching the part. If that makes sense? do it more like a skateboarder dropping in on a half pipe, instead of like a plane flying round the globe. It gives a better curve, idk why.

Check out cut knurling tools. Instead of forming a knurl by upsetting the material it actually cuts a knurl by removing material. They are much lower force than forming wheels which may be a better option for a mini lathe.

Maybe make you a piece of that 10mm plate for the bottom as a hardener, might even get better coverage with the blue, just idea 💡

👍👍👍

When scraping, they scratch the entire surface first and then rub it against the plate. So that the blue shows the pattern better.

what a fantastic video just a question do supply plans to purchase as I am hobbyist who likes to make his own special tools. regards Robert kerr

I wouldnt worry too much about the base not being hardened. My starrett surface gauge has a cast iron base, is many years old and works fine.

is it just me, or does anyone else think "OMG" whenever you see how fast his feeds and speeds are when milling?

Dude, you need a horizontal band saw!

Love your videos mate. Out of curiosity why do you always cut off with a hacksaw and not a grinder with cutoff disc and just mill down the rough end?

I feel like we should pass the hat around to buy AM a bandsaw. His hacksaw montages make my elbows hurt in sympathy.

Good camper ,

I got really lucky finding a 12 x 18" plate for 60$ new .thinking about it now i shoukda got 2 or 3

Was that a carbide router bit for woodworking that you used to make the round overs on the top clamp? It sure looks like one.

is there any tips u can give to someone when it comes to parting tool an getting it to actually cut the parts, ive broken 2 inserts trying to use my most recent purchased parting tool cause i had thought my biggest issue was using partting tools that was to wide for my little lathe but even with the thinner ones i have now its the same thing, it will start off cutting good an shortly after a groove is started its like it stops trying to bit an if u put to much force it the material trys to climb the tool an i know the tool is center an ive tested it a touch high an low an ive still never gotten a piece to part off on my lathe, i get the groove an either give up trying with my older wider parting tools an after breaking the only 2 inserts i had i always fall back on a hack saw or my new favorite saw saw blade in a handle to hack it off while the part is turning in reverse on the lathe, i dont like doing this but its the best way ive found to get a straight cut but i would really like to figure out the parting tool so i can start using that to get my parts cut off so i have a clean finish, sometimes they are to small to chuck back up an clean up so i end up having to use sand paper. ive probably went at this all the wrong way but i got a 7x14 lathe an a couple months later got a mini mill an i love messing with the stuff an have found myself using the mill way more than the lathe but mainly cause im not able to do as much on the lathe but i want to start to use it more so i can pick u how to do more stuff with it like cutting my own threads, but right now my biggest issue is not being able to part my stuff off with the parting tool.

You should get/make yourself a scissor type knurling tool. It would be much better for the lathe. And also can make better knurl.

Come out good looks like a bought one

the hangd sawing all ways gets me! Your poor arm!

the ball on the end of the rod is for setting up as a squareness gage

Next time tap a piece of round stock and screw in the adjustment screw {in this case} then chuck up the bar you mounted the screw into.

How about a shop tour.

Great job! You really need to invest in a metal cutting bandsaw. Even an import portaband will work fine. Th e one I bought from Harbor Freight and added a table has served me well for quite some time. You just need to use quality blades in it.

New subscriber here. Firts time i sore some of your videos i have to say i was not super impressed. Not because of the video quality which is always very good, but mainly for some of the, let's say unconventional, techniques you are using and quality of finished parts. But you know what? I love that now. You are finding ways to deal with limitations of your equipment and still managing to produce high quality parts. We are often (myself included) influenced by these big youtubers using crazy expensive equipment that most of us will never be able to afford. You are setting the write prospective of what is possible with real hobby equipments and are applying great skills to get the most out of it. And for that i thank you a lot, there should be more channels like this. Keep up the great work 😀

Where did you get your surface plate

Please make your next project some sort of powered hacksaw because... Damn... :)

Grab a large ball bearing as a convex bumper and let it sit in the big gap.

A youtuber called David wilks did a good video on how to turn long bars with no steady rest.

As beautiful and effective as case hardening is why not use 1024 so can always harden it if the work piece calls for it?

I love your channel and creativity in utilizing the equipment you have on hand. That tool looks professionally made. Well done. Now, stop "triggering" everyone with your hacksaw and buy a power hacksaw as my damn forearms hurt watching you cut metal. lol. Again, nice job on the tool.

As to the fine adjusting screw: Couldn’t you just have turned a slotted bushing to attach on the thinner part and then put it back in the lathe? Usually, that is how I would turn screws without risking to damage the threading. Should work fine for your part, too...? Hope you know what I mean.

Hi Mate, you are using traditionally woodworking router bits to shape metal. I suppose carbide tips work with both types of material. I’ve never seen that done before. How do the bits stand up to this sort of work?

How did you beat this old Tony to this project

I would not like to shake your hand. You must have forearms like Popeye! 🤣👍

Where did you get your Ball turner?

Has anyone ever done a documented build using 3 hardened ball bearings as the bottom of the body of the surface gauge? I don't have the ability to grind, and it seems it would be repeatable on a surface plate.