Tanner's Select Natural Sheepskin Car Drying Chamois can be used for the stoppers.

Offshoreorganbuilder Thank you for the advice, I will give that a try. I am actually right handed, I find that my left hand gets cut more often because the sharp thing is usually being held with the right hand.

MiniButMany Having seen your video again, it strikes me that there are other details of manufacture which your (or anyone else viewing this) might be interested to know. These include: 1/ Definitely give up the clamp method for the use of rubber bands. They are so much quicker, and you can work on several pipes at once, without running out of clamps. Very small bands are good for holding the 2 sides onto the block for initial gluing, then you can glue the fronts and the backs in one go, using the same or larger bands (as the pipe size increases.) When the pipes are too big (i.e. too long) for even larger bands to be practicable, cut large bands to produce a rubber strip and wind this around and up the pipe, knotting strips if you need to. (Trap the first end of the band by wrapping it around itself at one end of the pipe, then wrap around and around, up the pipe, finally trapping the other end of the band in the same way. There is no need to use knots. Every turn of the band increases the pressure and your work is never bruised.) For very long pipes get an old bicycle inner-tube and use scissors to cut it down its length into a continuous 1/2" strip. These strips are excellent for large pipe gluing. 2/ Use a small brush to spread the glue. (I use an old Copydex bottle, with its brush, filled with PVA. It has lasted for decades.) 3/ Buy a countersink! (Much better than using the end of a twist bit.) 4/ See Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening chisels and plane blades. His methods are excellent. 5/ Use stoppers on the tops of the pipes, so that you can tune them. 6/ I see that you use the 'German' cap and block. This is OK, but the 'English' pattern (with the blind block and the flue cut into the cap) may produce better results, tonally. The way you are doing it is more suited to busker or fairground organs. 7/ That band-saw looks dangerous! I could go on, but it's taking too long! I admire your work, seeing the partly-built organ. Well done and full marks for tenacity. Have you finished it, and what does it sound like?

Thanks Collin.

Are you trying to say I have wobbly holes? I say all holes were truly true.

ClethusThePlayer |0.07K| I used this table for the dimensions, mouth height, and wind sheet size: www.rwgiangiulio.com/construction/bourdon/

Ah, ok. Thank you very much!!!

The dark wood is oak. Any wood should work. All other parts of the pipe are best made from hard wood.

ok. Thank you

The cap is acting as the stopper, which lowers the pitch by half. The tuning is determined by the length, so to re-tune it would need to be cut off and glued back on.

Joe Cleveland But... Isn't the traditional plunger method more flexible? I mean, for example if you decide to change the temperament along the way? I don't want to be a busybody, just curious...

***** You are right, the plunger is a much better solution, I just don't have access to proper sheepskin leather which is very expensive.

You can use felt. It works ok.

Can you find that info about the proper lenght vs tone Heights online or in a book. And are square flutes better than round ones? Could you just buy a couple of flutes and put them into your organ?

This is a router plane. This one is very small compared to most. It is used to remove material at a specific depth.

MiniButMany Thank you :)