I'm assuming "good solder" means 60/40 rosin core and not to fuck around with lead-free. Proper temperature varies with the material you're working on, you want it hot enough that the solder will flow onto the material but not so hot as to instantly fry the wire or whatever. Somewhere around 700ºF (Or 375-400ºC if you hate the freedumbs) * *DISCLAIMER: I'm a soldering noob myself, but I've watched a number of basic soldering tutorials and done a handful of things that have held up and not needed re-soldering. (Granted, I've re-watched tutorial videos before basically every attempt)

@@thygod I prefer 63/37 solder. No joke! Yes, use a hot iron -- I bought a Weller soldering station, which was quite a bit more money than a basic hardware store pencil, but it was very much worth it to me. If you can get a soldering station with an adjustable temperature (40w for fast recovery), yes, your 700F is a good temp. I actually work hotter (735-750) and quickly, as the iron spends less time on the joint, and is less likely to heat up the rest of the part. This takes practice, though. Don't practice on a cherished guitar or other important project! If your iron doesn't have an indication that it's up to temperature, test it with a piece of solder. If it readily melts the solder onto the tip, it's ready. If it sorta melts the solder, let it heat up more. Once it's hot, clean the tip with either a wetted sponge, or a copper soldering iron tip cleaner (preferable, as it doesn't cool the tip). "Tin" the tip of the iron with solder -- this means to melt solder onto the tip and let it flow around. Some solder may drip off, so be careful! If you're soldering stranded wire, tin the wire before making the joint -- heat the wire up with the soldering iron, then touch the solder to the wire and let it flow through the strands. This takes only a very little bit of solder. Work quickly; heat will travel up the wire the longer the iron is touching it, and it could burn you. If you're not ready to work quickly, hold the wire with pliers. If you see your insulation starting to melt, remove the heat, let it cool, and try again. Then, heat up the joint you're going to solder. Touch the solder to the joint, not to the tip of the iron. You want the joint to melt the solder, so the solder freely flows all around it and makes a good, solid contact with the whole joint.

as long as required to get the desired look.

1. The saddles were slotted and installed for this bridge orientation. 2. It allows access to the intonation screws without having to lower the bridge pickup.

@@ScienceofLoud did you read what I wrote?

@@klauscottonswab2322 did you read what I wrote?

@@ScienceofLoud Yes, someone who would interpret what I said correctly would not have One-Two'd me and answering questions with questions. Someone who seeks malice or and is insecure would. Not very nice. Unsubbed.

Any without a Union Flag draped across it would be ideal tbh...

It's also far easier to adjust the intonation if the screws face the tailpiece.

There's a lot of things I'd spend money on before paying some bloke called Murphy to scratch my new les paul.

@@anomalousresult I'm with you, but I was talking about the Gibson factory making relics out of new gear. They have a man cutting cracks into the nitro with a razor blade. They even have signature relics - a dent for dent and scratch for scratch copy of Billy Gibbons' LP.

I’ve been playing my Les Paul for 25 years. Only minimal wear on the bridge and tuners.

It reduces friction allowing the fast moving wire to slip through the hand without catching on the skin. Significantly reduces how often the wire snaps when winding.

@@ScienceofLoud Ahh… baby fresh pick ups! I figured that’s what you were using it for. That LP is sweet!

What about it?

For some people, (myself included) nothing beats the satisfaction of achieving the desired result through your own efforts.

There wasn't an old cover