I realise that the car industry unions over reached and pretty much destroyed the viablity of the US auto industry and thus tainted organised labour, but it seems from afar that the pendulum has swung so far in the other direction, to US labour being treated like meat robots. To me it is strange that there is almost no movement for labour to reorganise in the US. Who else will fight for fair treatment in environments were workers are being exploited? Given the current shortage of labour, you will never have a better lever.

@@RotarySMP It's starting, but very slowly. Big businesses have way too much political clout, and have been getting their way for far to long. Amazon is a prime example.

@@7891ph When you hear about having to pee in a bottle to meet the performance standards, while the owner needs rocketry to exercise his 150+ billion, you kind of wonder why many of the union drives fail in their wharehouses.

Hey I like your Dad already. Wise man :) Nico is always irritated.

It is there, and I don't want to have to sharpen or buy end mills more than necessary, so I use it for everything except cast iron. Video's look more exciting without it though :)

@@Varnaj42 :)

Thank you! Cheers!

I wasn't sure it wasn't a pod or tool holders, but thanks for putting me right.

Welcome indeed. Thnks for the kind words.

Thanks Colin, you as well. I was happy how well the tool post worked as a fixture for this. Saved a lot of time.

The sad thing is I have a Do-All 16" bandsaw, but have to fix the gearbox to get the slow speeds. I covered it somewhere around eposide 12 I think. Thanks for watching.

@@RotarySMP Ah, that makes sense :) I just found you through your Maho conversion video. Keep up the great work!

Thanks.

Glad you liked it.

I was using shims on the worst ones while machining them as well. Two layers of beer can made quite a difference. Thanks for watching.

@@RotarySMP What about adding material (welding) and then remachine them to size?

@@NicoCarsAndCookies That would be polishing a turd. If I epoxy shims on correctly, I never need to think of them again.

Thanks. It seemed like the easiest way.

It is pretty cool. These things need a lot of acessories and consume a lot of time. But are fun to play with.

He needs this. :)

I had ptsd flashbacks to cutting seals back when I did automatic transmissions especially. Nico adds a welcome comedic relief and helps the channel bring that little something that gives it its own feel. Yet again I am a fan with or without Nico making an appearance. Keep sharing your tour.

Try. Although I have a 1957 16" Do-All bandsaw. But it has a defective gearbox I need to fix before I run it slowly enough to cut ferrous metals. Thanks for watching.

You noticed. Shame Ididn't nail the focus there.

Hi.Th Clarksons are pretty cool. The friend who had it before me is a big beleiver in tracking down all possible accessory for every machine (and he had many). Shame he didn't get one of those air bearing flute grinding attachments as well.

@@RotarySMP You can get some aftermarket air bearing setups but they are pricey and they normally need regrinding or the seals changed. I'm in Norway so attachments of any kind are pretty hard to find here.

@@kickinthegob I haven't actually tried flank grinding yet. It probably doesn't work as well with the guide bushings, but should still be better than a blunt end mill.

@@RotarySMP I have several mates who have Clarksons and they reckon it's no problem. Clarkson used their own grinders to sharpen their own endmills back in the day and they did it without air bearings so it will likely be down to practice and getting a feel for the pressure against the flute guide.

I don't tool grind often enough to get good at it, and tend to take too heavy cuts, wiping out the original grind.

Thank you for the kind words.

i only own 2 clamping blocks ;( Good point though.

@@RotarySMP One of my first projects at home was to make 8 clamps and T nuts for my Anayak. I made them out of 1.2311 steel and then surface ground them at my work ahahah it's great to have Access to a surface Grinder!

@@andresgodinho I would really like a surface grinder. I be I could make a whole bunch of new different screw ups with that machine. :)

@@andresgodinho lol i threw Mine on the shaper. Just a poor mechanical engineering Student though ^^ surfaces Grinder at Work Sounds fantastic!

@@RotarySMP the worst thing is if the part flies of into the darkness of space and you try to find it without success ahahah it happened to a coworker of mine, he didn't Turn on the magnetic table and shattered the grinding wheel along with it... He got to listen to our employer for a good 10 minutes!

Good idea. I am sure I'll get to them, but want to finish the min lathe first.

@@RotarySMP absolutely. Really enjoying the project. Makes me wonder why I haven't got round to finishing mine.. 😂

@@davers1610 Start a youtube channel. This has been very good for my focus on a single project rather than skipping between many.

Yep. I screwed up the edit there. I thougth I put in a scrolling text to introduce that Nico, our #1 fan,was back to work on thehydraulics.

Gracias.

Welcome. on board.

It was probably more down to me not taking the skin off both sides of the steel to relive those pressures first. Only doing one side meant the bar warped.

That is a really good deal.

I have a 16" Do-All, which is a pretty decent band saw :) But it has a damaged gearbox, so I can currently only use it in High range, where is too fast to cut ferrous metals. Fixing that is a project to follow this one.

@@RotarySMP Oh awesome! BTW, your MAHO and the lathe are looking great. I'm just starting to get to the last 20-30% of my milling machine and it is terrible since I'm back in uni again lol. So much time needed, not a lot to give ATM. Good luck!

@@Thorhian I struggle to make progress on my projects all the time.

It is weird to jump between the MAHO, where you are constantly working with numbers, to the clarkson, which doesn#t even have scales on the feed.

Getting there. Patience :)

@@RotarySMP ok! I already figured it out, but interestig, how will you do. 😉

@@DPTech_workroom Poorly I suspect. I started mucking around with this last night.

Yes. The gearbox of the band saw is damaged, and I only have the high range of speeds until I fix it. I talked about this back in an earlier episode of the series.

Nah, the slot was still too wide when not in the vise. I have since been told by real machinists that I should have skimmed both side to take off the skin, as taking only one side made for unbalanced stresses in the stock.

Dude needs tofix the gearbox on the Do-All to be able to use low band speeds :) I think I covered that at around episode 15 or so. Thanks for watching.

I started off with only that mini lathe. No drll press, no mill. I made my first two risers on the mini lathe. Only the last one got made on the mill. They dont need to be fancy. Thanks for watching.

Thanks.

THat is the plan. I just checked it out with my 0.3mm shim stock, and it looks about right.

Glad you like it.

Scrapbinium. In this case probably just a low carbon mild steel.

I got lucky this time.

That is the way I had learnt to measure dovetails. What method would you use?

Yes, its a 60° cutter. I should have been more careful of the clamping, and also machined both sides to release the internal tension.

@@RotarySMP noted,i will make sure to do so

I just lapped those faces with sandpaper on flat surface.

@@RotarySMP Ahaa.. ok :DI personally would face it with endmill.

@@waldemarii That would have been the smarter move. Becasue the bar was already at nominal thickness, I didn't want to waste thickness. Really I was to lazy to dick around with moving clamps. A couple of bad decisions. Should have bought larger material, and surfaced it.

That is also from me. It shows our #1 fan Nico doing some hydraulic cylinder work. I must have screwed up something in the edit there. Weird that it was never pointed out before. Shows how random my videos are, people expect it :)

@@RotarySMP haha, it's ok, i love watching!

@@mike9500 Thanks Mike. I think I got a little better a smoothing some of the most jarring transitions since then :)

Thanks for watching.

Good to know, but I don't own a microwave, and dont what to encourage Nico, you never know stray he would bring in next :)

@@RotarySMP in the meantime you can boil some water and drop the seal in the water to warm it up

@@chrisrhodes5464 Good to know. Thanks.

Thanks for joining in. Yes the tap matic allows the tap to float, and align to the hole. Not necessary for this machine, but they can also be used on a drill press.

Yep, a hobby ... they best way of making the least output with the greatest input of time and money :)

UNfortunately....yes.

Thanks.

It has gearbox damage, so I can't use the low speeds necessary to cut steel. Thanks for watching. I did a bit on that back around episode 15 or so.

I did consider buying, but then I''dhave no content for you, and the 3,7mm lower flange on the bought ones looks too flexible to me.

@@RotarySMP you should've made at least 30 or you'll run out of them at some point, but of course you can add the chinese ones on top if you ever need more.

@@MF175mp The X travel on the Maho is only 400mm, so this was the longest stick of steel I could start with, but you are right, if I'd put in a little more effort to repeat the first ops, once cut into individual holders It would have been more efficent to have made more. I think I have 19 AXA sized for the Boley, and that is only nearly enough.

It took one for the team.

@@RotarySMP it will be remember for is sacrifice

How would you have done it?

@@RotarySMP Well, first of all I would have cleaned up all the faces by first machining them true and square. The next thing I would have machined the dovetail using the tool post as a reference to ensure it almost locked on the post with the wedge at the top of it's travel..... this will ensure you can clean up the tool holders on the outside face of the dovetail.....you cannot measure the internal fit of the dovetail by using 2 rollers between the vees as is used for other methods as the tool holder fits against the outside of the dovertail face and between the fixed jaw and the moving wedge...... the bottom of the dovetail face is clear so does not give you a face you can measure from.......check this out with a feeler gauge and you will see what I mean. Finally cut the tool holders off to length ......NOT WITH A F##KING ANGLE GRINDER......this is a hack merchant's way of doing things, then machine the outside face of the dovetail to get the fit with the wedge tight and half way down. If you attempt to replicate the tool holders by measuring between the dovetails with 2 rollers from another tool holder you will not get a good result.......it is very difficult with this dovetail design for a fit to get a size that means anything..........so final fitting by trial and error machining of the outside dovetail face is the only way that is guaranteed to work.

@@gangleweed Thanks for that. I made a number of mistakes and bad decisions on those. Will keep learning.

@@RotarySMP I am actually in the same boat as regards to the same type of tool holders that do not clamp tight...... I bought the tool post on Ebay cheap and sourced plain tool holders separately from a different seller then added some more tool holders from a different seller again....cost advantage etc.....in the mix 2 tool holders were totally loose.....the seller offered me a $12 refund and I keep the holders. So now I have a choice....sell them on and have the same problem of a return etc, or attempt to "rework" the holders by some devilishly clever engineering. I'm just getting back into a Tig capability again so I will attempt to weld a coating of steel or bronze onto the outer faces of the tool holder dovetail and then machine it down as that is the only way to increase the gripping effect on this design. There is another way but more costly and that is to get the clamping faces of the tool holders hard chrome plated then ground down again......not very cost effective. If you insert two .020" brass shims between the faces of the outer dovetail and the clamp face of the tool post it will clamp up tight, but you would have to glue them on or braze them etc.....not very sophisticated.

@@gangleweed That is basically my plan. Epoxy a shim to one side. Half of mine came out okay..ish, but the ones at the end of the bar are too loose. For the AXA sized QCTP on the Boley, I have 19 tool holders from Phase II, Shars, and Ali, and all fit perfectly.

I got over that.