More to come, if I ever stop traveling. The next one is sure to ruffle some feathers so stay tuned! 😉

Acceptable resolution is very subjective but in general unless you're printing tiny (6 picoliter or less) drops of ink at 1200 DPI or more, you won't see any visual advantage if you go past 200 pixels per inch and really only trained eyes - comparing two images side-by-side - will see differences between 150 and 200 and only if they know that they should be looking. The rule of thumb in the sign world is that "typical" viewing distance is no closer than the length of the diagonal, so if you're dealing with a 48x36" print then you're looking at a minimum viewing distance of 60 inches. You can hide a lot of print defects with a 5-foot viewing distance! 😆 File types don't *really* matter except that using a lossy compression method like JPEG means you're throwing information away. So move that quality slider to 80% or above and never recompress a compressed file or you'll end up with the photographic equivalent of a photocopy of a photocopy.

SHORT VERSION: Use the Filter > Pixellate > Color Halftone filter in Photoshop. LONG VERSION: For what I needed, the Color Halftone filter wouldn't work as I couldn't make the effect sharp enough to capture detail. So I busted a CMYK image apart into 4 separate greyscale files, then converted each to Bitmap using the Halftone Screen option and set each screen angle to the appropriate one for the color (C=15, M=75, Y=0, K=90). Once all that was done I converted each image back to greyscale then recombined them into one multichannel file, at which point I converted from multichannel to CMYK.

@@LeeManevitch WOW You are awesome! thank you 🙏