Excellent supplemental historical information.

There’s nothing quite like eating a fresh mango. They’re far superior to any store bought ones.

As you are in the Los Angeles region, almost all tropical fruit trees will thrive there, particularly the Manila mango.

You’re very welcome.

Thank you. That’s awesome. They should do great in your region.

How is your mango doing I live in palms springs also did it make it

Phenomenally well. My recent videos touched on the topic of why everyone should grow mango trees.

Thank you. Hoping to have a Frankenstein mango tree in my yard.

It depends, but I have not been, and instead, relied on the microclimate. Having said that, the trees will always welcome any form of protection against the elements.

Thank you. All of my have grown relatively quick and some even produced fruits since this video.

@@TropicalCentralValley that's awesome that they grew quick and fruited. Hopefully I do a good job carrying for my potted mango trees. It's getting down into the lower 40's here in Long Beach. The Manila tree I bought today is inside. Do you think it will be able to handle the cold outside at being a very young tree? It's so rare that it gets this cold here.

It was 31° in my yard this morning, with the remaining weeks forecasted to be in the low to mid-30°’s. All of my mango, including unprotected seedlings in my yard are fine. In your case, to err on the side of caution, I would recommend sheltering it if possible.

Manila mango trees are naturally vertical. In my case, that’s an added benefit as I am able to stuff more trees in a smaller space. Specific to your situation, you can train some of the branches to become more horizontal. You’ll need to stake and tie the branches to your desired shape.

That’s awesome. It’s interesting to see the difference in tree size and height given our variation in climate. For instance, my 3 year old Manila is reaching 11 feet tall for which I attribute the growth in the summer months. They seem to thrive in my super dry heat. Have you tried the Green Sapote or other sapodilla varieties. All of mine has been extremely cold hardy, though, not a big fan of my sun.

@@TropicalCentralValleyIts not just tall- but wide with a good sized trunk. 12 years does that even in the cool bay area. I don't know how you do it. Are you on some kind of raised area? drains frost? Keep up the good work.

Originally, no raised mounds, etc. No frost protection either, just adequate microclimate.

That’s awesome and luckily in your case, there are a good number of tropical fruit tree nurseries nearby.

That’s awesome. I don’t know about your city’s ordinance, but in my city, the homeowners are to take care of the stripe of land between the sidewalks and street.

That’s awesome. Manila rootstocks are one of the best.

I’m in the city of Visalia, CA, about 50 miles south of Fresno, CA. I have never lost a mango tree to the frost, though, a good number of mine have been hit by anthracnose and other pest issues.

I have not, though I may get one in the future. Although I typically only grow tropical fruit trees that I have previously eaten the fruit, from the description of it, it taste similar to a caimito.

Visalia, CA. If you’re nearing the Los Angeles region, there’s actually a good number of tropical fruit tree nurseries in the area. Here’s some videos I did touring some of them: Champa Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pZdddMeYzJuoe4U.html Emily Garden Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ndRhfaea35PWmXU.html Mimosa Nursery - Spring 2022 Tour kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j8x_gLKE2NureaM.html

@@TropicalCentralValley I'm by Modesto area, anything on this side for nursery?

I can’t recommend any nurseries in Northern California that may carry limited inventory of some tropical fruit trees, but I am aware that some do carry cherimoya, avocado and guava occasionally. It may be worth a days trip to visit Southern California just to whack out their huge selection of tropical fruit trees.

You’re very welcome.

No. And you don’t want too many fruits on a branch as the fruits will be smaller.

That’s interesting. Mango trees really do seem to like intense heat, particularly indirect sun heat.

@@TropicalCentralValley Yup, they love heat. I have potted mangoes that I put against my house's hot southeast stucco wall and they are doing better than the mangoes in ground that are not next to a wall.

I have a Glenn in a pot that is doing good (in the Bay Area, Zone 9B). Another one that seem to be doing good so far is Malika -- I have a few other varieties (all in pot) that are hardly surviving; many others survived the winter (in a heated greenhouse), only to, unfortunately, die in Spring!

@@0anant0 In the container, it's not a problem, they flourish but the moment you put it in ground with that Florida turpentine rootstock, the growth rate tremendously slows down. I thought it was a gimmick when people talked about turpentine rootstock in California but now I see the proof.

@@Okorokanze2000 That explains why the plants I bought from Florida nurseries eventually died. I am not sure whether it was Alex from TropicalAcres or Julian from Lara Farms saying in one of the interviews that they now offer a rootstock other than turpentine for California orders. What is the reason of the slowed growth rate of turpentine rootstock in ground in California? higher pH? lower soil temperature? clay soil? Thanks!

That’s awesome. In most casts, the mango trees may actually produce flowers again, if the environment is favorable. Concerning the size of the containers, specific to the Manila mango, their tap root goes quite deep and will appreciate the additional soil, provided it’s well draining.

I too have purchased a few Manila mango trees from Lowe’s. If yours is anything like mine, I highly suspect they are grow from seed, as Manila is true to seed. I say this because in my case, I’m unable to locate any graft joints, and being mango fruit trees, they produce fruits fairly young. I do not “pug” my mango trees and instead, need them to grow vertically tall (so I can put more trees nearby). By cutting the tree, the new branches will split into an octopus tree where you get multiple branches shooting out.

Thanks for the tip. Luckily, or unluckily, my climate is so dry that much of the fungus pest issues are nonexistent. That said, I do have my sulfur and copper solutions ready.

Leave burns are typically caused by the tree’s inability to uptake water and sometimes nutrients. How is your soil’s water holding capacity? Is the top inch of your soil moist to the touch, especially during the hot days?

@@TropicalCentralValley they're still in a pot, I used a good potting mix but no sulpha . infact 1 is the manila mango from HD that I did'nt repot

@@TropicalCentralValley they're in full sun and i water every 3-4 days

For containers, it may help to water them a bit more frequently, to keep the roots cooler. Unlike roots in the ground, the roots in containers get super hot, especially if the sun is hitting the container.

@@TropicalCentralValley the black plastic may not help either ....thanks as usual !

There’s not much information about them. They’re native to Mexico and does very well in the Central Valley. The tree is compact, almost the same size as a Manila mango tree. The fruits are slightly smaller than your Kent/Keitt mango, but soft and sweet.

@@TropicalCentralValley Thanks for the info. Slowly waiting for my first crop of Corriente here in the bay area.

That’s awesome. They’re surprisingly cold hardy. They should be great there.

The last winters were 27°.

That’s awesome. The Manila variety appears to the most hardy of all mangoes.

Thank you. For now, many of my mango fruit trees are in larger 25 gallon containers. This should last them for at least 10 years. I probably will end up upsizing the trees at then. If I have more yard space, I’d definitely put them in the ground.

Thats good to know. Thank you very much.

Specific to my Manila mango trees, they receive the same organic fertilizer as with my other tropical fruit trees. Keep in mind, the nutrient changes depending on the state of the tree. For example, if the Manila mango trees were fruiting or flowering, I eliminate nitrogen and increase phosphorus and potassium as well as watering. All of my trees get the same watering treatment under normal growing conditions. Amendments depends on if the tree is in container or in the ground. For in ground, it’s generally 25% sand, 25% peat moss and 50% native dirt. For containers, it’s 40% sand, 40% peat moss and 20% perlite.

Unfortunately, I’ve not had much success with growing many of the “designer” (Coconut Cream, etc.) mango species in the ground. All seem to not be a fan of our soil. Many of the Asian variety mango trees from the nearby tropical fruit nurseries such as Nam Doc Mai, Keo Savoy, etc are grafted onto Manila rootstocks. In previous years, I too took my mango trees indoors during the cold season, however, I stopped doing that as I feel the trees can take the cold.

@@TropicalCentralValleyYou missed my point? Yes mine take the cold but it hibernates them - Mangos like continual growth. in a climate such as us both we need very early varieties that flower not too early outside but not too late or fruit wont grow enough before winter. Try King Thai or Maha Chanok on Baily rootstock? Or another large variety. King Thai doesnt get Anthacnose or Black spot - nor does Glen or Irwin or Kwan ir Nam Doc Mai

I suppose I didn’t quite understand what you were trying to convey. I agree, as with the vast majority of tropical fruit trees, the mango trees do not go dormant when the temperature drops. However, during the winter, I also ensure my trees do not grow, as any new growth will be negatively impacted by the frost. In my climate, specific to mango trees, I don’t really have any issues with the trees blooming too early or too late. All of mine begin blooming a month or two after the last frost event. Additional, I generally pick the last set of mango fruits in the fall, and with my season, this allows the mango trees a few months to put on some new growth before winter hits.

I don’t find avocado trees difficult to grow. I have a Reed variety in the ground doing awesome. They’re one of the easier tropical fruit trees to grow. I particularly like the Reed variety as they are quite good and produces relatively large sized fruits.

@Tropical Central Valley Does the Reed need another variety for cross-pollination and fruit-set?

All avocado varieties do not need another type for pollination. Thats not to say it doesn’t help, by having another type, it increases pollination by about 10%. The whole idea between needing Type A and Type B for cross pollination is a myth.

@@TropicalCentralValley Thank you! I love the videos. They gave me the confidence to start growing a few tropicals in the Sacramento area.

Thank you.

In my case, I do not allow my young or newly planted trees (less than 2 years) to fruit. This enables the tree to focus on its root establishments. Doing so will allow the tree to withstand future climate issues (freezes).

You’ll want to heavily amend the soil when planting in the ground. Keitt mangoes can be a bit picky, but I believe it’s worth a try. Mine had been doing fine, takes our summer and winter without issues.

Excellent question. The simple answer is, well, I’m simply out of yard space. By container growing the mango trees, this enables me to have many trees in a small confined space. Additional, bear in mind about my statement on the pickiness of soil when it comes to most mango trees. This allows me to control the growing medium and make adjustments to the soil when needed. Once bloomed, it’s only a couple of months before the mangos are harvestable.

@@TropicalCentralValley That's good to know. I wanted to plant mango trees but I Heard I would have to wait for 12 years to start bearing fruits. I don't think I want to wait for that long LOL. How many years do you have to wait for the Manila mango to give first fruit from the store bought tree which presumable grafted? I m in North part of Central Valley.

My two more matured Manila mango trees started producing fruit in year 3. If grown from seed, mango trees typically produce fruit from 3-6 years.

@@TropicalCentralValley I have barely begun container gardening inspired by a YTer in So Cal.

Definitely, the application of elemental sulfur is a must. Some trees require it more than others (e.g. Miracle Fruit tree). Any brand should work. I’ve been using a brand from ”Tiger”.

@@TropicalCentralValley Thanks for the reply! How do you apply it to your soil and how often? Much Appreciated!

The amount depends on your soil pH. For this, you’ll want to test it prior to applying. I generally apply it during my quarterly granular feeding.

Mango trees are one of the easier tropical fruit trees to grow, once their growing conditions are met.

Watering really all depends on your soil, the weather and temperature. I would water it enough to ensure the top 1 inch remains moist to the touch. Specifically, in my case, as I have an automatic watering system, all of my mango trees get watered every other hour, for about 3 minutes per session. As we head into the summer months, I will change it to every hour and may increase the minutes.

@@TropicalCentralValley Wow you water every hour in the summer? That seems like a lot of watering. I water once every week with the hose (deep watering). Are you talking about your trees in pots or in the ground? Maybe I need to increase my watering then. We do have clay soil and we are same zone as you are (I am in Southern CA). I also have a very thick layer of wood chips as mulch around all my fruit trees.

I do currently water all of my tropicals, both in ground and container grown every other hour from 8am - 7pm daily. Keep in mind, as I’m only watering all of my trees for 3 minutes, I’m likely using way less water than others who perform deep watering which to me, is quite wasteful as 95% of a trees roots are in near the top 2 feet of soil.

Before you water your mango or most in-ground plant, touch your soil to make sure the top few inches is dry and you shouldn't water it more than twice a week if you deep water. And don't forget about mulching ( Very important) .

@@Okorokanze2000 Thanks, I have a one acre lot, so it will be very expensive to put drip system, so I water by hose unfortunately; and I do have a very thick layer of mulch. I water once a week, but I think I am going to be watering twice a week from now on because I noticed that it grows more when I water more. The space where you have the trees makes a big difference. If you have a small back yard, you soil will not dry out fast, but if you have a large open space, the soil will dry out much faster. I had a house few year with a small backyard and I also had fruit trees, and I used to deep water once every 2 weeks in the summer only with no problem, but now with a much larger area, I have to water much more. Live and learn :)

Another name is Carabao.

I’ve seen a number of ethnic grocery stores carry Manila mango fruits. If you’re in the Fresno region, TC Fresh Meat Market and SF Supermarket occasionally carries the fruits. A popular relative of the Manila mango is the Ataulfo, also marketed as Honey or Champagne mango. My local Costco sells the fruits. From the perspective of taste, it’s very close to the Manila mango. The seeds too germinate quite easily and are true to seed in that, the tree produces fruits like the one whose seed was germinated.

That is true. It goes by many names. I only call it the Manila mango as that is what the various tropical fruit trees know them to be.

Unfortunately, I do not sell any of my tropicals. If you’re near the Los Angeles region, there’s a number of tropical fruit tree nurseries in the area.

@@TropicalCentralValley no, up in norcal unfortunately :( normally get my trees from mimosa nursery, but theyve been out of stock for a while

I live in norcal, Daly CIty, you can visit Asian Supermarkets and purchase manila mangos, eat them, and remove the seeds from the bark. That's what I'm doing right now. I ate all 14 of the mangos in 2 week span and was able to successfully germinate them. I'm on the last stage of germinating the last 5 seeds and ready to plant them on my 27 gal tub. The great news is that the seeds are polyembryonic!

That’s very true. I have nearly a 100% success rate with germinating Manila seeds.

Unfortunately, I do not sell any of my tropicals. If you’re near the Los Angeles region, there’s a number of tropical fruit tree nurseries in the area.

That’s great. I’ve been on the lookup for a Fruit Punch and Guava mango; hopefully Champa or Mimosa carries them this year. I can’t say that I’ve seen any nurseries carry the Lara variety startfruits, but it does sound interesting.

@@TropicalCentralValley If your looking for the super rare mango varieties I recommend Lara Farms from Florida. They ship to California and have around 70 varieties available. Thank you for your inspiration to grow tropicals in The Valley.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll have to check them out.

@@TropicalCentralValley ihave a backup fruit punch and guava mango tree i can sell to you . I have over 150 varieties of mangos 🥭. Love that ur addiction for mangos and tropicals are ever growing like myself .

@@TropicalCentralValley you should come and check out my collection lol next time ur in LA.

Yup, varieties.