It's always such a wonderful moment when a channel I've been following for ages suddenly puts out a video about or at least mentioning the software I created and have been maintaining for almost eight years now 🤩 Thank you for all that you do, and I'm glad to hear that my work on OctoPrint has been able to help you!

It's really enjoyable that you point out some of the miscalculations and errors in projects. It's really comical and helps the rest of us learn from it.

Slotted screws are the bane of all true mechanical designer and engineers!

Marius, a straight 5v is not enough for a Rpi 3B which requires at least 5.1v to be normally powered. (you should see the underpower icon on the Octoprint's page) Personnally I set my PSU at 5.3v which is perfect for the Rpi power regulator. It's also not recommended to power the Rpi through the GPIO but to solder wires on the PP1(+) and PP3(-) under the Rpi. This way you keep on using the power regulation and power protection of the Rpi. This is probably wise with a chinese downstep module as power supply, by the way. ;) You should also make a custom USB cable with the bypass of the 5v wires. This way, the Rpi will not power the Prusa's rambo board by the USB cable. It's the good way to do it.

The magnetic chip baffle's is a great idea. No matter how powerful your extraction is a router cutter will always find a way to throw something out.

Although I'll never be capable of using this info I enjoy your problem solving solutions and explanations. Looking forward to projects using the upgrades.

i am always amazed at your skill and ability to problem solve. Here in America kids your age are eating tide pods, and crying cause someone hurt their feelings. I always look forward to seeing what you have done. Great job young man.

Great video! Always enjoy these shop stuff ones. I got my first 3D printer a few weeks ago and never even used the SD slot. I went straight to Octoprint after doing some KZfaq research, and never looked back. Also for what it's worth, I made the EXACT same setup with the step down buck converter for my printer to power a pi. I stepped the voltage down to 5.2 volts instead of 5.0 so that Octoprint wouldn't give me the power warning. For whatever reason, some Raspberry Pis need slightly over 5.0 volts or they throw a warning at the kernel level.

I have a PC in my shop as well and strongly recommend passive cooling! That way dust ist kept out of the PC at all times. Even high performance PCs can be equipped with passive cooling.

Marius is like a blend of Matthias Mandel and Thomas Sanladerer. Super interesting content!

Does your PC have a decent filtered intake? Project idea: filtered cabinet for the PC, could mount it so it is off the floor as well. Also, for shop applications I think passively cooling smaller computers such as the Raspberry Pi (maybe even your old editing rig) would be a better way to go. No fans to pull in dust onto your components when possible is always a good idea in a work area where dust is a consideration :)

mounting the fan at 8:55: The normaly middle "washer" part of the rubber should be between the fan and the case. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpOhhtRqtcWyfH0.html (but the printer is louder anyway...)

I would have used a switch to provide additional Ethernet ports from the power line adapter. However what you did works without having to buy new hardware.

Hey can you please upload the 3d model for the raspberry pi holder?

I love these videos. I love that we get to see more of the process/iterations of the parts. Thank you for the awesome videos. Keep up the good work :).

My son really wants a 3d printer... He wants to make some D&D figures. I started thinking about all of the shop stuff I could do and how much potential it has like dust collection adapters, holders and whatever anyone can dream of. 🤔 I wonder if this is a tool that will become an everyday household item in most homes in the future like TVs and microwaves.

Thanks for the video. You are not right about the aluminum being colder than the surrounding air. It will have the same temperature, but it just feels cold when touching it because it has a much higher thermal conductivity than air and transfers your body heat away from your skin much quicker than air. You can confirm with a thermometer that the temperature of the aluminum and the air is the same. The temperature of all the different materials like aluminum, wood etc. in the room (unless connected to a heating or cooling source) is identical to the temperature of the surrounding air. When touching a piece of wood, it will feel warmer to your hand than a piece of aluminum, even though the temperature is the same. Wood just transfers the body heat away from your fingers slower than aluminum will. When running the router, the top of the wood plate will heat up quicker than the bottom from the router bit friction heating on the top. Because wood is a poor heat conductor the top will heat up quicker than the bottom as it takes time to transfer the heat through a poor thermal conductor like wood. But the aluminum will never be any colder than the air even though it feels much colder to your skin.

For the WiFi? I upgraded from an old Apple AirPort Extreme to a TP-Link Deco Mesh WiFi network. My garage PC is my workstation. The Airport was too slow (wirelessly) and I did not want to drill through the wall to send ethernet cord to garage PC. I plug the garage PC ethernet directly to the Deco mesh wifi and it tricks it to think it's hardwired. Bought another Deco for my brother's PC and we wired directly to it as well. Fast speeds all around the home.Hope it helps! Love the vids Marius! Keep on tinkering and improving your mods.

I hate to tell you this but if you used a Raspberry PI Zero it mounts to the back of the Prusa control board and it will connect through the terminal holes supplied using longer terminal pins. The Prusa site has the instructions for this addition.

Marius you are one of THE greatest. Thank you for what you share with us.

Great job Marius. I have printed the Camera arm and found it very effective. Thanks for sharing.

Great "catch-up" video. Looking forward to the CNC dust collection project as that's on my plate as well, although ours is a considerably bigger and different CNC: CNC Factory Viper XP (5'x10', 10HP air-cooled spindle, vacuum hold down and 10-position ATC). Beyond the form factor, other complications for my project include automated tool changing, safety signaling and pneumatic dust boot control.

I have also widened holes in a raspberry pi. Mine was a model 2b, though. I designed a breakout board for some hall sensors and had it printed and shipped to me, but it's holes were too large and since the pi cost less that half as much as the prototype board I figured it was better to try widening the holes first instead of sending off for new prototypes.

you could use loc-line for your camera arm then you can get any orientation you want instead of just in the xy-plane

As far as the computer goes, I would think that the sawdust issue just from being in your shop would be a problem.. I'm sure you've done well with dust collection, but just seeing the dust inside your saw in your saw-slider vid would show a possible problem over time. It suggest you probably want some kind of filter on the intakes for the PC. As to the teensy screws, yeah, PCs have their own unique screw sizes, it's a very good idea to order a general-purpose boxed set to keep around for use with any computer needs. You can get something like 100-200 piece with 6-10 different screw types, including the mounting posts (e.g., if you're putting a new motherboard down in a new PC case), and a couple sizes of flush-mount screws as well as the different types typically used in railing and securing devices (like drives) to rails. A lot of systems have inventive connectors/rauls available, but they often still need to be screwed on somehow. Hilariously, many many years ago (OK, "decades"!), when PC magazine first appeared, they had a give-away for a subscription that was a handy little toolset. It was nice and really cute... Except that every single bit in it was too large for ANY PC screw. LMAO.

Now, add tiny servos to the joints of the camera arm and make sliding/eucentric time lapses 😉.

TP link...same as mine...just upgraded, as the old ones I had were lacking the latest security. Just for info, I found that you can connect different manufacturers units if they won’t communicate by a short Ethernet cable (if they are next to each other like yours), and they will work...like your printer setup...very nice...if only I had the time...

You could attach a (usb, or bigger 24v) led lamp to the camera arm and not to have to the bigger table lamp. But very interesting stuff as always.

My 3D printer (cheap Weistek 150) has a "build-in" misalignment that I can't fix mechanical so I created a C# program that corrects all coordinates for the misalignment. The same program also adjust all feed rates and temperature. As usual you managed to make an informative, interesting and fun video.

Great update....looking forward to you starting to build furniture again though

Thank you for your enginious designs i am impress thank you

Friendly tip: Those DC-DC converters are normally rated for 1A, which for a RPi 3 B isnt really enough power. I had issues with mine so I got one that does 2.5A and now it works perfectly! I run Octoprint on my AM8 printer and its so much fun watching it via the webcam even though the printer is in the same room as I am :P

it is wise to have a PC on the floor in a workshop with a lot of dust.

I wouldn't hang the camera off the stepper like that, it'll put relatively huge twisting forces in the x-axis. Best to attach it to the frame at the bottom - yeah it won't move up with z travel, but honestly those kinds of timelapse aren't great anyway (they get old pretty quickly) best to pre-frame your shot, imho.

I found the Pi camera to give a very poor images compared to a cheap webcam, now I just use the webcam and it doesn’t seem to affect the Pi 3B in any way I could see. And it has a decent robust cable, that is long enough :-) And you don’t have to open the Pi to plug or unplug the cable. Now all we need is the CNC version of OctoPi.

Wait how would the aluminum table be colder than the air temperature?

You will have problems with the dust in the PC. You should add filters to avoid the dust to enter the PC. It is crucial if you want to machine metal in you shop as the metal dust conducts electricity.

13:46. And I move this cable up here. Oh no it's too short. Well, I've been saying the same thing for years. Good to know I'm not the only one with shorter cables

you should have at least given Gina Häußge - the creator of Octoprint - a shoutout! Amazing piece of software!

Powering through GPIO without fuse is the best way to burn Raspberry Pi... You should solder wires to the board before fuse used. Or add other fuse.

20:00 the vicious circle 🤣

I bought a Felder 700s and I remember on one of your videos you were talking about your diamond blade. So I got the diamond blade also. $700 Canadian dollars but worth every penny. Cheers!!

Nice video, how about building a track for your camera and maybe use a 4th axis motor to move the camera as its filming so it pans during the time lapse?

I'd also worry about stray wood dust filling the PC tower, even though you have such an effective collection system. Ethernet kludge adds an additional hop, but I guess that's no big deal. Latest Wifi seems to be much more capable. Power line systems can be problematical depending on home wiring.

I really need to get Octoprint set up. When I 1st tried it in 2017 it failed with an error I couldn't find any fixes for. Might have better luck now. I also need to install the bed level sensor I bought 6 months ago lol.

Great video, as always. Do you mind sharing links to the Pi case you printed and the stepdown converter and fan? Thanks!

Hi Marius, where we can find the case for PI with enclosure for booster module ? Thank you in advance.

Einmal Octoprint und man will nicht mehr zurück! :)

ha! for a second I thought the raspberries finally come with big enough holes. I thing I drilled into every single one I ever used :D

Great video and glad to be seeing your great tinkering skills ! Keep it up.

Great info, Marius~! I broke down and ordered my Prusa MK3S+ kit last weekend, so now I'm rewatching videos to pick up on 3D printing tips & techniques. Looks like I've got a 5-week wait until it arrives, so I've got some time to come up with an enclosure. I love the Octoprint and I'll be using my RPi 3B+ for it since it's been sitting on the shelf for a while. I'd love to hear any advice you might have for a 3D printing newb. Thanks~!!

Im surprised the two ethernet to powerline adapters don't interfere with each other. They may actually be compatible, in that they are using the same framing protocol, but are intentionally ignoring each other's frames. This suggests that while they aren't interefering, they might be sharing the same signal frequencies, thus reducing the effective throughput of (that segment of) your network. Regardless, if it's working for you, then it's perfectly fine.

Mein MK3S kommt die Tage. Freue mich schon meinen Anet A8 endlich zu ersetzen😂

Great video. Nice improvements. Mahalo for sharing!🐒

It's not recommended to run the pi from the printer PSU, as the PSU is barely enough for the printer itself. If you run into weird issues try powering the pi separately.

Nice video, thanks for the update.

@Marius Hornberger - at 11:24 you say you found the X carriage stepper cable guide on Thingiverse, but it not linked in the description or on your Thingiverse page. Surely your camera arm is a remix of it? Only polite to include links to "parent" objects like this.

@10:00 Swiss Army Knife, great!

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

do you want to make a dust protector for your PC ? i guess it may be neccessary what with all the sawdust/off cuts floating around in the shop. i know you have a really good dust management system but i know you will never get all the dust, and sawdust inside a PC is not really a good idea.

Nice work Marius! If I may... the PC on the floor is going to eat a lot of dust... ,Is it not possible to move it to an adjoining room, with such cables to connect to keyboard and screen, and of course to the CNC? anyways... keep it up! Love your dedication and enthusiasm!

Computers in the woodshop. We can call it Dust and Digits.

Hi Marius, how many space are you now using in the cellar ? 80% ? I guess only the washing machine is left 🤪 nice Pril flowers on the wall I suggest to install some CAT7 cables during the next house renovation. I was lucky enough to have a support chute from top down to cellar (where my servers are). But I know in newer buildings with a chimney up from the cellar, there is often a gap between floor and chimney. That could make it easier to cross the Beton floors. While wifi still works in my cellar, the reliability and speed is much better with cable. I like you 3D print Upgrades and what parts you are making. Thinking to buy my own, but iI am afraid what type of SW toolchain I need to use AND to learn. What is your toolchain ?

Marius, Really ingenious designs of the extra parts! Could you tell us and show us the reason you use the filament you use on the 3D printer? Seems strong but remains somewhat flexible. Maybe it get hard and brittle as it gets older? Thanks for another great and informative video!

Does Octoprint communicate with the Prusa through the TX and RX pins on the J19 socket of the Einsay Rambo board of the Prusa? If so, is there anything special that needs to be done on the Prusa to make it communicate via those TX and RX pins? In the Prusa firmware, what class (e.g. Serial, MarlinSerial?) does it use to send and receive via those TX and RX pins on the J19 connector?

Good job, nice machine!

I rarely think you are wrong Marius. But why on earth would the aluminum table be colder than the surrounding air? And even if it was, wood doesn’t move with temperature. It moves with humidity. Most likely reason is that the piece of plywood is dryer than the equilibrium air humidity and air is mostly only reaching the top surface.

Looking good Marius...

I think good idea to work together with Simon " Denksport" from time to time. You could improove together to our benefit, would be great

You are a credit to the history of German engineering.

Bitte weitere Videos.

Such a great video - I'm literally copying the whole thing - thanks so much!! One question - at 10;35 you connect the wires from the stepdown to the GPIO pins - how did you do that? It is not clear in the video and I would appreciate a steer here.

What do you think of the new prusa MK4, I have a 2.5s and a 3s, and thinking about getting at 4. Larry

Can you make A tutorial setting up octoprint and timelapse settings. Nice video man. Thumbs up

When I move I also will dedicate my old PC to my workshop I think... DLAN adaptors are just a nightmare for ham radio operators because of EMI, lets hope you have none of these around :D Modifying your 3D printer... everyone knows that this will happen to EVERY printer sooner or later.

Du solltest dir lieber das Cold End vom Sebastian End kommen lassen, deutlich besseres System und du hast so auch noch zusätzlich eine Minimalmengenschmierung falls du mal Alu bearbeitest.

Hi Marius, I love those rubber things you used to connect the fan, what do you call them and where did you get them please. I have a reasonable computer that I update when I can and the graphics card has five fans of its own without the fans to keep the core cool so I have a lot of fans I need to fit in my new computer cabinet. I like the idea of rubber mountings and that should also reduce vibration if I get any. I enjoy your videos and the things you make, I especially liked the life you built.

Keep pushing, let the engineer explode! Engineers do it better 😊🤟

Awesome upgrades - really neat! - btw I noticed an interesting Kill-a-watt like unit that your CNC router plugs into... what make is it?

Nice video as always. -@Prusa MK3S - buy the "Double-sided Textured PEI Powder-coated Spring Steel Sheet" - this was one further step making the printer absolutely perfect. - Overall I make the same experience with the printer like you and i am glad that i did buy the original - quality, support and innovation out of the box included. I know a lot of people that invested the same or more money in making their chinese printers "better":-)

you make it look too easy..hahaha thank god for editing right,great video and you made me look into cnc and 3d printing,i will start with 3d (cheaper) thanx and keep making the videos

Nice Victorinox (Midnite Manager?)

Dare I look into the _comments_ section for snarks on the orientation of the Noctua-rubber-standoffs?

I've been using Octoprint for as long as I've been 3D printing, so for me support/compatibility for it on printers are a must. Such awesome software! What are the dimensions/footprint of the 3D printer setup with white sides on? As in the thumbnail.

Hi, the dust collection will have a height adjustment ? Also many thanks for the content you provide and inspiration.

At 25:00 you mentioned there are some bed leveling plugins that you use, which ones do you use to check bed leveling? And at 25:30 you mentioned there is a plugin that tells you how much to rotate each screw, which plugin is that?

Hi, I've been using octoprint for a couple of years now, however the app on your phone didn't look familiar to me. What was that? Also, were you using the standard timelapse, or the octolapse plugin to make the head look stationary? I tried the octolapse one, however it inserts stuff into the gcode, which made it fail quite a bit... Danke, schönen tag!

Filament pls?

Can you post the modified RPi case you used on Thingiverse? I have a Prusa MK3S+ and would like to use the same setup you showed.

👍👍👍

I saw a Bosch MRP23EVS router in the background and I want to know you opinion about the router as I want to buy it too.

Great Video. Unfortunately your thingiverse link does not work.

Are you saying it’ll play Crysis? Cool.

What slicer are you using on you Prusa?

I'd end up playing CSGO all day in the shop if I had that pc in it haha

Get a flux pen, it will turn you into a soldering pro.

You are very smart and cute. Love your accent. 🐰🐰🐰🐇🐇🐇

⭐️😊👍

Eine Warnung: DLAN kann die Stromkabel deines Hauses in Antennen verwandeln, wenn die nicht gut geschirmt sind. Das kann dann zu massiven Störungen von WLAN/Mobilfunk führen und mit extra Glück kommt die Bundesnetzagentur mit einer dicken Rechnung vorbei :D

I didn't recomand to put the PC in the same room with the cnc machine cuz the PC its senzitive to dust and the cnc creates a lot of dust