Couldn't agree more! Thanks for watching.

I appreciate your support!

Hey thanks so much! Check out our Instagram @agavemusicaz for different horn content!

Yup, big fan of key Leaves! I recommend them to all my clients. I actually sand the cork under the rolled leather sileners so that there's a lot of surface area helping to prevent compression even more.

Thank you

You can always send us your horn!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abFhhNic35yUemw.html Hello, I made another video showing how I use the Magnehelic on a whole saxophone. Link above. It is important to understand that I am the only, or one of the only, technicians that can get a reading on a whole sax using the Magenehelic because the tool is so sensitive and saxophones are so crude. Not even Yanagisawas are this tight brand new without a major play condition. I made this video to let demanding players, such as yourself, know that there are techs like myself that can tame the mechanical nightmare that is the saxophone. I hope you will consider having me look at your sax even if you aren't in Arizona. Here's more information on website about other repairs: www.agavemusicaz.com/saxophone-repair

I'll see what I can do.

This is a tough one. Even after making these reamers for about ten years, if I get even a little sloppy then it wont cut(especially on nickel hinge tubes) so I have to take a deep breath and start over. I'm actually trying to talk a tool maker into making very long reamers in the sizes I need. I also have a Sherline mini lathe that I haven't set up yet that may make it easier. Right now I'm using a bench motor.

@@agavemusicaz first off, I really appreciate you even responding. A lot of techs wouldn’t even bother. I am in a similar boat for trying to up the diameter on hinge rods for old keys who’ve seen a lot of playtime but rely solely on lapping instead of using a reamer. I’ve looked into ones from McMaster & Carr but it’s definitely an investment and I don’t know if it will actually pay off

I have a heat bulb and a humidifier. It gets to about 145 Fereinhight. At 150 fereinheight shellac starts to soften. It holds temp quite well so I turn it off and leave it overnight sometimes. I like a deep seat like the original Selmer pads.

I thought the sax was in a refrigerator too.

The fridge is a pad oven. I say, "the seal is in the seat". I have a heat lamp and a humidifier in there. It gets to about 140 degrees Fahrenheit. At 150 degrees the shellac starts to melt.

Hey there! The song is just a free song the videographer chose. In the future, we'll provide song details.

The magnification makes it look worse and the videographer might have gotten the wrong clip. It is tighter now than any brand-new Yanagisawa.

You didn't watch the whole vid did you

Its just a stock song our videographer used but going forward we'll make sure we have that information.

I have found in the last 5 years that that's actually not true. I once thought this as well. It is extremely important for the tone hole surfaces to be smooth with soft edges and no burs. This is where the seal happens. When the leather meets the brass it needs that smooth surface to seal. This is one of the revelations I made using the Magnehelic to test the whole saxophone after overhauls. On vintage saxophones especially, it is very important for technicians to not remove brass unless absolutely necessary. Those thirty-year-old VI's are now 50 years old and we have to be a lot more careful.

@@agavemusicaz my mark 6 is 60 years old.

​@@grantkoeller8911so????😅😅

It's our first video, still learning how to adjust sound levels. Thanks for watching!