Thank you!

Agreed.

I agree with you for me the VM i ts à very good amp since à long time i plus in 2 6L6 and 2 KT66 this is much better .very ship and stonish song better than à DSL Marshall. Greetings from Belgium! Thanks a lot buddy !

Trust me ! I had one it s a very very good amp and very cheap. I m very happy with him and he very heavy and strings ( no issues for the moment !) Thanks a lot buddy @ greetings from Belgium

Thanks I’m glad you liked it! Lots more on the way!

Thanks!

Well done? You're clueless, this guy has no clue how to dial-in this amp!

should try Celestion Heritiage G12H Greenbacks, (same as old creambacks) extended low end and high end

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks!

Thanks! And yes, I think the footswitch is one of the biggest weak points. I'd love to be able to switch from low to hi, mid boost on or off, as well as reverb. I've seen a few modded VM's with an extra set of volumes and custom footswitches, so it is possible if you're willing to go that route.

Thanks - yes I agree, the Origin series is kind of the same idea. There was a hand drawn schematic floating around for a while that I can't find anymore, but I remember there was something odd about the gain and tilt controls. I think the tilt is kind of "faking" the plexi thing by sweeping the frequencies and the gain stages are still 3 cascading instead of having two parallel channels jumpered together. To be clear though - that's not an official schematic just one someone wrote down after opening their own Origin, so until I see an official one, I won't really know for sure since I don't have my own Origin to tear apart. I don't think it's going to replace a real plexi or JTM for anyone that loves those - in the same way this VM didn't succeed at that - but considering the price I'm tempted to pick one up that's for sure. I liked the ones I've played in stores so far.

@@totallyradguitars959 you're right. About Origin Schematic, I've saw that the guy from Headfirst Amps made a great videos about many mods, I remember to read that that schematic was drawed by him. I don't know.. I still prefer VM than Origin, but the high wattage keep me out of getting one.. :-/

The old 80s Strikers are still relatively inexpensive. The Focus series is getting more and more expensive, but they’re pretty good and come with Original Floyds.

Absolutely, great amps. This 2466 also has some enormous iron in it - it’s much heavier than my JVM410 was or most of my other amps (the 2555x is pretty close though)

When you say enormous iron ,do you mean a big transformer .??

good ole BOSS SD1 will take a VM to where you wanna go

I think a lot of people did that too, then plugged into the JVM right next to it and took that home instead haha. Luckily VM prices seem to be pretty reasonable if you wanted to get one now, they haven't spiked up like some of the other models (as much).

Good eye! That’s a hell of an amp - and you can go between two different sets of power tubes at the flick of a switch. It’s really cool to hear the differences in real time through the same amp, currently I have EL34 and KT88’s and the KT88’s really beef up the lows and lower mids. It’s on my list to do a demo for but I was hoping to find a schematic somewhere… Kasha seems defunct maybe too, as they didn’t respond to my email asking to buy a footswitch

That sounds like a good excuse to go out and buy a JTM45!

@@totallyradguitars959 My goal is to build one myself some day. I would likely add switching to allow the flexibility to mimic a JTM50 or other early Marshall's as well, but always be able to switch to good old JTM45 stock.

Wow! Thank you for the clarification - I thought I was looking at a band-stop kind of filter in there but that's not really what I was hearing with my ears so I wasn't 100% positive on that.

​@@totallyradguitars959 Simply put, It just cuts less treble when the boost is ON

Hey, the purple is a little smoother in texture but the quality seems fine to me. Thing is it won’t match a normal Marshall cab in color or texture so it’s up to you there on the aesthetics.

@@totallyradguitars959 awesome thank you!!

Great info! I'll give it a try!

I agree - it's very much a more 60s Marshall sound with the ability to kick in another tube gain stage. Definitely misunderstood, the marketing didn't help - it kind of implied that you could do an authentic 60s Marshall tone + a modern heavy tone and that's not really how it works, it's more like, 60s tone + angrier 60s tone. I'm not the best player to show that off because I'm not a big 60s rock guy but I think this amp would really please guys that like Hendrix, Clapton, etc those kind of tones

Yeah I think it sounds pretty good as is but I'm sure it'd be way meaner turned up about halfway or higher, I just can't pull that off in my apartment at the moment. My neighbors are pretty flexible but this was recorded around ~105 DB, I think any louder might be pushing it. One of these days I'm going to move and build an iso room so I can really rip!

Great amp I have the 2266

Really great rundown/review on this amp! It does take some getting used to. If I run my 2466 on LDR at 2 o’clock on master, pre-amp to taste (detail usually two notches above body), bass nearly off and mid/treble at 12:00. Amazing 60’s rock zeppelin/cream (Disraeli gears) tone, earplugs required as I’m about 3ft away from the amp 🤣🤘 Using matching 425a cab with G12C’s, mid boost always on, always.

@@jacob_miller Very nice! There is a 425a cab local to me right now that I'm very tempted to pick up so I can have the whole setup, but I have no idea where I would fit it. The mid boost is essential for sure. They should've named it "mid cut" and reversed the control because that's what it really is - mid boost on is the classic Marshall sound.

Depends on what kind of music you play really, so it's hard to say. I play mostly hard rock type stuff and I really dislike the sound of single coils in the bridge because they have that raspy, hairy midrange to them. Of course, there's also thicker sounding single coils that don't sound like that so really... the possibilities are endless. Since you mentioned clean/mild gain, single coils are usually a bit snappier and brighter which helps them cut, but that can also be piercing in the wrong room or the wrong speakers. For example, if your 1960A cab has G12T75's made recently, you might find single coils through an amp like this excessively bright, but you always have the body channel to fall back on. On the other hand, G12T75's made in the 80s are much darker and rolled off, even moreso if they were played a lot, and you might prefer the detail channel or both channels mixed together in some amount. That does make this amp a little easier to adapt compared to a 2203 but... no amp will change your mind if you don't like humbuckers or don't like single coils to begin with, I'd say. I probably didn't help much haha, just have to try it out yourself I suppose (that's how I ended up with this one!)

Agreed, I actually filmed this video twice, the first time with an HSS guitar and I had some great tones with the single coils, but I buggered the recording and had to start over. I think most of these more old-school Marshall circuits sound a little flubby on the low end with humbuckers, probably part of why it's so popular to use boost pedals like tubescreamers and SD-1's that cut some bass in front of the amps.

@@totallyradguitars959 Remember that the early Marshall circuits were little more than direct copies of the Fender 5F6-A. Just ever so slight value changes in a couple of the caps and of course KT-66 tubes instead of 5881 tubes. And what were all Fender guitars from that period? Single coils! Fender matched their amps to sound best with their guitars. That's why the JTM family of amps right on through to the 1959 sound so good with single coils {think Hendrix, Blackmore, Trower and so many others}. They are ALL descendants of the Fender 5F6-A circuit with more minor tweeks as the models progressed. But you can hear the British flavor to them, they are different enough in that regard. Especially when you add Celestion speakers to the recipe.

Bought a 2466 as a complement to my old JMP 2104 combo, but I just couldn't bond with it. It always sounded too muddy or bland. It got lost in the mix, too, in a three piece band. Not Marshall's finest moment imo.

@@ChoppaWhoppa1 That was definitely Slash's problem in Velvet Revolver. Totally lost in the mix and muddy. < Sarcasm.

@@DamnDealDone I don't know about Slash, but it didn't work for me.

I like the sound of rolled off highs, probably why I like the G12T75's so much. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to check them out... although I think this particular amp is plenty bright, overly bright at times, but there are other amps I'd like to open up a tad more (VHT Pittbull comes to mind, love it but it's definitely darker). I've been on the hunt for 55hz greenback for a while but despite all of the stuff I have, people may be surprised to hear that I only buy stuff that's well below market price, so that's one of the reasons it takes me so long to get certain stuff (even basic stuff like Mic's, took me years to get even a basic SM57, waiting for the right deal to come up).

@@totallyradguitars959 You'll never find a used Weber Ceramic (or AlNiCo) 1230-55 with Pre-Rola doping, and there is no other speaker quite like it with the cloth surround that softens the harsh upper-mids without reducing the highs. The 100W version sounds like the 30W because it has an Aluminum voce coil. Could be nice in a 1 or 2x12. Closed or open back. In a video comparison with a '73 SPL100, the VM sounded a bit darker. That's what I judged by. Depends on several factors. The VM might also ship with the ShuGuang KT66's and it's prolly biased low to extend tube life. They sound pretty crisp like that. Th Ru Gold Lion's are smoother. Biasing the tubes to at least 70% should help a bit. Can go a bit lower with the GL's and still sound smooth. I think the VHT Pitbull has really high input capacitance. A brighter speaker might help when the amp section is driven hard and generating lots of high harmonics, but maybe not when it's not cranked.

Hey, assuming you replaced the power tube and the burnt resistor, I'd start by tracing back from the power tube if you can find any other damaged components. You could also check the voltages across some of the pins on the preamp or power amp tubes, but remember this is serious stuff - be super safe, if you don't feel comfortable take it to a tech, there are deadly voltages inside these things and especially checking voltages while it is powered on can be extremely dangerous. Use ample caution. Too high of voltage on the preamp tubes due to a burned resistor or capacitor could make the amp sound cleaner. I'd also make sure you are checking with the mid boost turned on or that nothing is wrong with that switch - I also barely get any drive with the mid boost off. It's hard to point you in the right direction without hearing it in person though - good luck!

@@totallyradguitars959 Thanks , for the quick response , I was an electronic technician ,I used to fix old monitors with a crt.Im an electrician now but am just starting to learn tube amps.So I know about the dangers.Ive read up on tube amps in my old school book but will probably soon get a book for guitar tube amps , I saw a good one for designing preamps.Theres only a few more resistors in the power amp section and the output transformer ,so i have a new set of power tubes and I replaced the resirstor , I can bias it properly now.The mid boost does seem to work but does not sound like your video , Ill look into comparing the voltages as Im not sure exactly what they are suppsed to be.Its also hard to check if some of the caps are leaking because they have no leads showing and they go to a pot which also has no legs showing.Ive tested the resistors on the preamp board.(did not remove them).So maybe its a bad cap or something in the power supply section.Also , I bought it used so it didnt have the original speakers , I put creambacks in them.I have a clip but dont know how you can access it. Also I have a Mark V , keep the mid and bass eq very low , thats the secret. Thanks again.

@@totallyradguitars959 I measured all the voltages of the preamps , i was surprised that v1 and v2 has 162 V dc on the anodes , thought it would be higher.My mid boost makes a change but not like yours , Ill have to figure out all these voltages to see if they are ok or not.

Strange I have 164 v on V3 cathode B , would you know if thats bad or not ?, im thinking this should be very low like the others

@@richardrooney2054 Very cool, I just have to give the "safety speech" to make sure it is taken seriously. Ok, so I still have this amp so I got it out again for you. Here are my DC voltage readings: V1-1: 212v V1-6: 212v V2-1: 223v V2-6: 223v V3-1: 384v V3-6: 216v Looks like all of your voltages are noticeably lower than mine. I did check with the power tubes removed but I don't think that should affect these preamp tube voltages. I'll leave the amp out of the shell for a few days in case you need me to check another voltage for comparison. You can also email me (totallyradguitars @ gmail.com) Cheers

I need to pull mine out and look at the T#### codes on them, there’s a thread somewhere on the Marshall forum that details it but basically, there are 6+ different versions of the T75, similar to V30’s having a bunch of different versions. Mine have the old style label with vent holes on the back, most likely your 900 can has the white labels with no vents and might be a slightly different model. It does make it very difficult to talk about speakers because some will say they hate X speaker due to a bad experience with one specific model and not understand that they can be drastically different even just a few years apart.

@@totallyradguitars959 hmm ok I remember mine have the white labels with a black corner, no idea what number are on them. Thanks for pointing out the difference in the t75 speakers. I just figured mine sounded different due to age and being used over the years.

@@angrytroll27 I couldn't find the exact thread I was thinking of but this post on TGP details it pretty well: www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/g12t-75-versions.2275519/post-32963107

@@totallyradguitars959 thanks!

Chinese KT 66 for this amp

G12-75 are not good speakers the Marshall branded g12c from the Hendrix cabs are voiced for this amp I own two cabs they really duplicated the pre rola Celestion speakers from the 1960s

They definitely all have that similar bright overdrive tone but there's a slightly different character to each one, depending on both the circuit layout itself (order of gain stages, how many, etc), the values in the circuit (caps/resistor values that allow or restrict certain frequencies), and of course the EQ itself (either on the amp, via caps/resistors/filtering circuits, or even the values used on the EQ circuit within the amp - for example the treble frequency of one Marshall design may be higher or lower than another). That is an incredible video, I wish I could play like that! That's a great example of the "tone is in the fingers" thing - a great player can make any amp work and sound similar enough. I'm sure if you had him play the exact same riff through each amp back to back though, you could tell the difference even if it is slight. The more outboard pieces you have - different guitars, boost pedals, effects etc - the more similar each amp will sound to each other in my experience. The plexi however is a very different beast in one respect - it only has two gain stages, similar to the low mode on this Vintage Modern. I did a video on the 1987x you could check out, but it's not nearly as much gain as any Marshall that came after that - the character of the DOD or overdrive pedal will likely show through a bit more because you'll need to use more of it to achieve the kind of drive you want for those solo tones. Of course the ideal amp for you is probably a YJM - if you can find one. That is plexi based and is going to have that 2 parallel channels w/ 2 gain stages each kind of thing which is fairly unique compared to later Marshalls. If you really want that super-authentic Yngwie tone, a 1987x or 1959x (or some other Plexi clone like Metropoulos or Ceriatone) is going to be the way to go. As for whether or not you will be able to tell or even care if you choose a cascading gain design instead (JCM800, 900, 2000, JVM etc) will depend on just how picky you are really. I will say that my own 1987x feels smoother and looser than any JCM800+ model that I have, and the reason I still keep my 1987x around is purely for that specific glassy smooth tone that it does that even other Marshalls can't replicate. Okay - that was the long answer. Short answer, there is a difference but they all share a similar voicing and EQ design and as such you can play much of the same styles on any Marshall amp.

@@totallyradguitars959 thanks for the explanation man! it's really useful for me :D love this channel, cheers!

Hey, I'll do my best. I have a TSL100, the DSL of course has lead 1/2 modes but otherwise its the same circuit as the TSL and theoretically should sound identical. Of course, the 60/50 versions of the amps have a slightly different power section. Either way, the TSL100 is definitely on my list to do and if I can get a DSL for the right price I'll be doing that one too. Cheers!

It is possible and there is a fairly large community of home-amp builders. Some buy kits online and assemble them - changing values or designs along the way, while others more advanced will design them from the ground up. Many current amp makers started this way or by modifying name brand circuits. Names like Splawn, Ceriatone, or even better known ones like Soldano, Rivera, etc all started out with someone building or modifying a circuit and then turning it into a production amp to sell to other musicians.

​@@totallyradguitars959 It was pretty surprising for me to hear for the first time that mesa is based on fender. And like you mentioned, tons of varieties of amps are actually based on past legendary masterpieces. But what I was surprised at this time is that there is a large community of home-amp builders. As I was, I know there are pretty many DIY pedal builders. So maybe it's time to step up into challenging building amps... Anyway thank you for your response! I love the vintage modern btw.

I’ll see what I can do! I have a few “shorter” videos in mind so I’ll add that idea to the list. I only have 3 or 4 boosts but I’ll take any excuse to buy another

I use tube screamers and SDs like a basic b**** but next might be the mojlnir, archer, or octonaut

Cheap? Mine cost $2,100 brand new

It's a Marshall with a plexiglass material front panel, not sure what else you'd call that if not a "plexi." Even Marshall officially calls it a plexi in their materials if you look it up: marshall.com/amps/products/amps/vintage-reissues/1987x

OK, snob.

This 2466 measures 29" across, exactly the same width as my JCM800's, JCM900's etc, It's just the standard size Marshall headshell. Not sure about the combos but the head's size seems normal/fine to me.

Dumb comment

@@totallyradguitars959 Hate to break the news to ya but today JCM800's ain't exactly flyin' off the shelves Homie! They sell 100x more of their cheapo small amps then they do JCM's and mfg's like Blackstar, Friedman, Soldono, Wangs, KLD, Ceritone, and a long list of others are hurtin' Marshall big time! and the most popular heads are NOT 29" inches long! Look at Marshall's Origin series, find one that's 29 inches long, I dare ya!

@@totallyradguitars959 Hey Homie look at the amp ya got sitting on top the the Vintage Modern, Hello! Ray Charles can see they ain't the same width, an he's dead! maybe ya need yer eyes checked!

@@kennyh5083 I got ya covered then mate, the perfect amp for you, this one is only 4.3 inches wide. These things should be flying off the shelves! www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MS2--marshall-ms-2-1-watt-battery-powered-micro-amp-black

Thanks for your feedback, if you just want clips without talking I'm working on some more easily digested material like that in the future, but I'm still going to be doing long ones like this because there are people who appreciate the technical details.

Is it too complex for you?