Thank you a lot for your advice! (EX30 - light weight rider)

Great talk Johnny, very controversial but great subject it provokes thought. Love it.👌

Enjoyed that - very well thought-through, explained and presented info there. Me and my Master learned some stuff from this !

Johnny I Loved this video. You mentioned a couple things that have been my mind and your detailed explanation was Phenomenal. Thanks for sharing!

Good stuff !👏

Thank you for the video!

When it stops raining I'm going to try this on my Challenger.😊

Awesome 😎 thanks brother!!🙏

Disagree on the whole tyre friction thing. This only matters if there is a risk of actually sliding the wheel. To initiate a sharp turn at speed you do have to create that force which if the tyre lacks grip, will result in a slide. But that slide isn't going to happen on a non nylon street tyre. The lower friction part comes as you kinda 'ride' the curve which happens after you initiate. It is very much like a motorbike. Everything is the same other than the fact that the form factor means your body physically manoeuvres differently. On a bike, you would load the front tyre and then initiate the hard turn. The friction is used which is what enabled you and the wheel to lean at all, as the force pushing you outward is the same thing stopping the wheel from falling over. Talking about oversteer doesn't apply to a lot of track bike riding anyway as we have traction control on and slip is less drive and is often not needed or wanted. I initiate a sharp lean by dropping one knee, but I am used to riding asymetrically. I don't lose propulsion in doing so and actually accelerate in turns to main the line. One leg is straightand basically leant against the wheel as my body continues to get lower as the turn gets sharper. Then at a certain point, the wheel comes away from my outside leg and is hovering just next to it. I'm fairly sure after much experimentation that this is the best way to turn at speed. I developed this technique primarily off-road on flow/berm trails which require you to shift the weight of the EUC a lot. Quick sharp turns at speed (although these are lower speeds than street, but also tighter turns). You're technique is similar, but you just don't get the inside leg down and out, which is what allows you to get lower. The nature of turning simply means you need to lean more to turn more at speed. And you can't physically lean it more unless you get your leg out the way. Nice video, but I disagree. Motorbikes are the best example to learn from, just adapt posture. The physics are the same.

Liking the set upgrades, I was just thinking about his topic, doesn't make sense to me on a 1 contact point vehicle.

For a specific EUC, tire profile, speed, ..., the tilt angle determines the turning radius due to camber effect. What parts of the EUC that a rider presses against to cause the EUC to tilt doesn't make any difference as long as the rider can exert enough torque to tilt the EUC. For heavy EUC's at high speed, in order to generate enough inwards torque to overcome angular momentum and force the EUC to tilt, the normal method is to press inwards on the outside upper pad, and outwards on the outer pedal. At high speeds a rider has to lean | hang off for balance much more than the EUC is tilted to steer, providing a lot of leverage for the lower outside leg to pull inwards against the outside upper pad, much more than the leverage that could be be applied by grabbing or slapping the rear of the EUC with the outside hand. The external friction force between tire and pavement is not affected by any internal forces such as what forces are used to tilt the EUC. The friction force equals the mass of EUC + rider times the centripetal acceleration. The center of mass of EUC + rider is offset inwards from the contact patch by an angle equal to the inverse tangent of the centripetal acceleration divided by 1 g acceleration. You can find video examples of high speed turning methods by the speed riders (40 to 50 mph) on Mt Baldy road, where I doubt grabbing the rear of the EUC would be sufficient.

An interesting case for not using the puck or knee, but I am disappointed that he hasn't addressed the heel-toe technique.

{tl;dr. Comment for the algorithm} Excellent analysis. Your “slap” technique becomes necessary on larger wheels at higher speeds simply because there is too much angular momentum to manage with the fine motor coordination that is available to twist (turn) the wheel around its vertical axis. Using your hand for extra force to initiate the changes in direction is the ‘manual’ means of enhanced maneuvers. Excitingly, there’s research and development occurring now that uses ‘mass control gyros’ to help with power assisted steering AND wobble-stabilization. It’s going to be mind-bending. If done to its fullest, power-sliding across ice, mud and sand will become possible and more safe than automobiles or motorcycles. Traction-control, jump trajectory stabilization and self-driving all become possible with this technology. We should expect to see implementation of low-power wobble-stability and turn-enhancement within 2-3 years. Self-driving (with robot valet to self-charge) plus computer-assisted inverted aerials should take about 10 years to mass production. imho. Most people don’t understand the subtleties of fine muscle control that prevents wheel-wobbles, then just learn from cumulative experience. But at the point where we are currently with speed and weight, either EUCs will have to significantly reduce overall weight and angular momentum to double the speed envelope using current designs, or more gyros will be required to maneuver a 150mph EUC as if it were as agile as an S22pro at 20mph. Prices should approach $10k for such a beast but it should be able to perform similarly to a BMW m5! (Also, imho) Lastly, beware of induced wobbles if your hand strikes too fast and is removed prematurely… {not my experience, just speculation… maybe you’ll verify through testing.} 😊

Great video! Very informative

As an S18 rider with over 500 miles on the odometer this all seems very unnecessary and dramatic, but that is a lighter wheel so maybe that makes the difference. Learning to ride my EUC was like learning to ride a bike, once it "clicked" I didn't need to go looking up tips for how to turn... it was immediately natural. Imagine learning to ride a bicycle, riding around the neighborhood for a bit, and then going on youtube and looking up "how to turn when riding a bicycle"... it just doesn't make sense, no one would do that, and that is my experience with learning to ride the S18 as well. It's very easy to take 90-degree corners on small sidewalks without making a big production out of it. My only guess here is that riding a larger wheel is significantly different to my experience.

Each wheel and setup will ride differently and require it's own approach. What works for you might not work for the next guy, and the only universal truth is that being comfortable with your style is really what's important. Body position is everything and the lines you choose also important as they dictate your speed and lean angles.

Nice way of explaining turns. I guess that's what EUC riders mean when they say mind/ body connection and working with the wheel as if it were an extension of my legs and feet?

Is the pet-tap ping pong action to EUCs the same as the Fosbury flop to high jumps? Interesting technique. If anything this should teach us to try different techniques, and see what happens. Minus crashing, of course. Thanks for sharing.

I'm not 100% sure I understand the exact "ping pong" technique from this video, but I think your discussion about not putting extra weight on the wheel but changing the angle sunk in a bit. Going to have to experiment. My V12 HT is right at that 1/3rd of my body weight point or slightly over, so I probably don't have some of the problems this video is meant to address anyways. I'll try to come back if I ever manage to get a bigger wheel someday.

What tyre pressure do you normally ride your challenger at please?

I have recently replaced the motor on my Master V4 device with a C40 motor. Comparing it with an Ex30 and a Master Pro, the Master V4 is not as heavy as them even after the motor upgrade. The Master is not heavy at all