Thank you for your kind words :-) I've added a link to the 3D printed parts now in the description. INAV is doing very well indeed with VTOL and you can really play about with it compared the AP system which is far more automated in its approach. With INAV you can fly in full ACRO in VTOL and do flips etc too however my quad flying skills are a little rusty so I'm still in angle mode here. Agreed, the Devs have done an amazing job and as when it's fully ready for public release it will bring the option of simple to setup VTOL to many more pilots that struggle with the Ardu setup. I'm very excited about it and it's always nice to have more than one firmware option.

Thanks! Shota has done a fantastic job of the development work to get it flying this well. I hope you get to try it.

Thanks mate, it's getting there!

Thanks mate, it's coming along really nicely.

Thanks, I initially moved the GPS there as it was picking up a lot of interference when it was in the main fuselage, but it works well for the compass too. It does mean I have 12 wires running through the boom though!

@@Crunklefloop next time you build something that doesn't need a compass try that hglrc mini 100. It's rediculous small but gets sat lock really fast last weekend I got 22 sats from inside my house. Blow away by the tiny thing

I am familiar with the CL-84 Dynavert. It was quite an impressive machine. There was briefly an RC version made by a company called something like "Unique Models" although it's long been discontinued you can sometimes find one for sale.

Thanks dude

I did originally speak on your early t1 ardu vid, bout battery type and amps. Tbh i did chuck ardu on mine was challenging. Didn`t manage to fly apart from garden hover testing. Feel more comfortable using Inav. Can`t wait to try / find a guide.. Is it available now inav 7?@@Crunklefloop

@@kool-k-kel Yes, you can download INAV 7.0 RC3 currently and setup VTOL. It does still require a bit of a process but it's not too complicated. I've put links to the docs in the video description for you.

cheers, i`ll try n flash it now :)@@Crunklefloop

question on board calibration, did you do in the model or did you calibrate fc on the desk? thx .. appreciated@@Crunklefloop

Thanks mate. for the VTX I just cut the original USB cable and soldered the V+, Gnd, D+ & D- and soldered them to the USB port. For the FC port I just used a spare remote USB cable and used that. A few caveats though: - With the FC (if using a matek with remote USB/Buzzer) you will lose the buzzer but more importantly also the boot button; so make sure to keep the original USB/Buzzer board and cable so you can still enter DFU to flash the board if needed. - You can only use a USB-C to USB-A cable to connect to your PC as there is no pullup resistor meaning a USB-C to USB-C cable will not work.

It was just from eBay.

It's actually a custom font that was made for me by a friend.

Sorry for the slow reply. Ailerons can just be on a Y-cable, there's no advantage in separating them. Are you using the Matek F405-VTOL? If so, send me a message on FB or email and I can send you my Diff-All file.

Thanks! Glad you like it. I was using Gensace Tattu 4S 1800mah 95C packs. I could fly for 20minutes on them if easy on the throttle. Most Lipos tend to have slightly less usable capacity than shown. To make sure you're getting the most out of the pack though, ensure your FC's current sensor is properly calibrated (www.mrd-rc.com/tutorials-tools-and-testing/flight-controller-therapy/setting-the-current-sensor-in-inav/) and in the OSD manual monitor cell voltage to gauge when to land. I try to land around at around 3.5-3.6v/cell with a Lipo.

Damn, you hit some powerlines!?

@@Crunklefloop yes. It makes no short cuts on the electronik if you not touching other Voltage Potential. Like touch 2Lines or one line+ erth or Line+ tower

It's an unbranded foam pad I found on eBay of all places. Worth checking Aliexpress too as there are a few on there.

Hiya, yes no problem at all. If you message me on Facebook I'll send it to you.

Hi, sorry for the late reply, I didn't see this comment until now. Aside from the usual servos for the ailerons and elevator it's just two extra servos for the tilt motors. I just bought the VTOL kit, which came with the tilt servos already. I believe they're GDW.

The originals on mine were still okay, however, they are weak around the screw points and will eventually crack. The reason I'm using the ones you see here is simply because a friend of mine made them, and I preferred the design.

Thanks, this is with the Walksnail V2 VTX and Pro Camera.

I haven't tested that in MC mode yet. Might give that a try tomorrow.

I haven't done a video on that however a friend of mine has here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y813gqim3Ke8oWQ.html

Sorry for the late reply. Are you on Facebook? If you search for me there I can send you the details of what I changed. I really should do a video on it.

No, I'm using the standard protocol

Yes, I've changed all my antennae to RHCP TrueRC

@@Crunklefloop nice thanks bro

Yes transitioning when already moving forward in MC mode would be smoother. I'll try that on the next flight

@Crunklefloop yeah sweet. I'm about to get Into the vtol. How is it feeling compared to your ardupilot setup? Also are these new motors your running the same as what they supply with the vtol kit? If not why did you change them?

I find it much much nicer to fly than Ardupilot, in VTOL it's more nimble and in Fixed wing mode it's more responsive and locked in. I'm using T-Motor F2004 1700kv's. I changed them as I burnt out the bearings on one of the original motors.

@@Crunklefloop Hey there! One more question haha. How does it fly in fixed wing mode compared to just the normal t1 ranger non vtol? Does it fly just as good?

@peacemakermotion3949 on INAV it flies as-well in the VTOL setup as the normal T1. In-fact, to save a bit of battery, I often just launch fixed wing with Autolaunch and use the VTOL mode just for landing.

Sure thing - if you message me on Facebook I can invite you to the VTOL testing group chat which will help get you started. Although at this stage it's still in the test phase so the documentation is limited to what's in the Github pull requests etc.

@@Crunklefloop Thanks for the offer. I don't have a facebook account but I'll create a fake one for that, you will see a request from Jonas Salk. Thanks again.

@@adilsongoliveira Just sent you a message there 🙂

It's not uploaded anywhere, it's just something I knocked up in CAD. I can send it to you though if you ping me a message through FB messenger.

sounds good. @@Crunklefloop

Yes, I've had a few people ask for the 3D prints. I'll find all the files and upload them to Printables/Thingiverse shortly.

Upload done - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335002

@@Crunklefloopthank you.

@@Crunklefloop can you also share the files for the USB-C connectors (the round ones on top and in front) Thx

@@Propspalter These actually came with the plastic part already in place. If you search "USB-c panel mount" on eBay you should find them.

They haven't yet lol

@@Crunklefloop No Karen Farmers in Devon I guess. I saw the sheep coming down the road as you were flying...Must be great having all that space.....🤔😏😏

@@EnglishTurbines I find most people are pretty decent if you don't make a nuisance. I tend to just take off and then throttle back so when it's in the air it's barely audible. The VTOL testing makes a bit more noise but still not excessive. It's very different to quads which tend to cause more upset.

Yes, we're still in the testing phase. It's nice to have another option outside of Ardu though.

If you fly quads I guess you use BF or INAV. When INAV 7.0 is ready for release that might be the option that most makes sense with what you already know as Ardupilot can be a bit of a learning curve. You can get the PNP kit from Heewing which, aside from some basic assembly, is pretty much ready to go. There's a link in the description 🙂

I'll check that out, although, in converse, if I do a fast transition there's no wobble. We're also looking into some other occurances such as motor yaw control as I believe tbis is still active when in transition tilt so the motors are effectively wobbling when tilting as the MC yaw mode is still in play. One thing we're also going to try is adding in a degree of differential thrust control during the transition to counteract any yaw effects too. I need to go through some more tuning and setup, unfortunately time and weather have not played ball this week.

I don't know why all tilting rotors vtol use prop blades meets at bottom/front direction. It will introduce more coupling to roll/yaw control.

Yes no problem - I have a Diff-All uploaded to the INAV VTOL testing group - link in description. That is only for the T1 running the Matek F405-VTOL FC though.

@@Crunklefloop Would it still work with the PNP FX405 FC, or no?

@TMacDo243 I'm afraid not, the Heewing FX405 only works with Ardupilot. Your best option would be to get something like a Matek F405VTOl or the new SpeedyBee F405 Mini

@@Crunklefloop Ok, thanks. The mini only has 2 ESC outputs though, how would that work??

​@TMacDo243 For the rear motor you can simply solder the wires doubled up to one of the Esc power pads. For signal by default the S1 and S2 pins are for motor output however this doesn't need to be the case and you can setup alternative outputs to control motors. The S1-S11 pwm outputs are set in groups called "timings" and these timings can be set as either servo or motor outputs via the mixer tab in INAV.

I think I'm already on 3.3, Iflashed whatever was the latest one a week ago. Very impressed with the performance of ELRS