Pinned! Thanks! ✌🏻

@@HiroshimaSpirit np, i have more info if needed was looking for away to private msg but i see youtube removed it.

@@speedhead2k Wow, I can't find torque specs for my 2 anywhere online. Do you have a service manual for your car? I'd love to get new information like that 'cause I wanna get more hands on with my 2 someday. Thanks!

Awesome! Welcome to the club. Glad to help! ✌🏻

Thanks!

People say that all the time. Every time I wear rubber gloves they tear, I end up dirty anyway, and I throw them out before I’m done. Hands get dirty when you work on cars. It’s a fact of life.

Yup! Still running great. Thanks for watching! ✌🏻

Green car is at 135k and the silver one is approaching 50k. Barely broken in for each.

Looks like my 2010 is the same... no screws to be seen, only what look like rivets. Did you ever find the proper method to remove this plastic ECU cover?

@@paulf1071 I just worked on my 2014 Mazda and the 2 "screws" are hard to remove. They are held in place by a plastic retainer clip. You need to use a flat screwdriver to push the retainer clip up from the bottom while removing the screw at the same time. Alternatively you can use the flat screwdriver to pry up the plastic retainer while removing the screw.

@@kenk3146 Thanks Ken, I had a work-around where I was able to swivel part of the air intake out of the way for access to spark plug area etc. Will consider your trick the next time I'm working on the car. 😄

@@paulf1071 en la parte central con un destornillador de paleta se jala hacia arriba y listo

If you want to go the extra mile and reset the ECU, just disconnect the battery while you work. 👍🏻

@@BoerVanPretoria This is about the engine itself running rough. Not feeling engine vibration in the cabin. People conflate the two all the time. You can have perfectly good engine mounts and the car still run poorly.

I’m not a fan of seat covers, so I couldn’t even begin to think of recommendations. Sorry!

I went... off-roading in the green car. lol

It’s a light. Blue for cold, red for hot.

I don’t have that issue, so I haven’t needed to solve it. Without being there to sense what’s going on it’s tough to diagnose. Hope you get it fixed!

Try carefully cleaning your crank angle sensor with a sensor-safe cleaner.

No idea. The air conditioning compressor doesn’t constantly stay connected and running. It cycles when in use. That is normal.

Like, mods or maintenance? I always use Rock Auto for replacement parts. Join the ‘M2O Mazda2 Owners’ group on Facebook for used mods and plenty of info on anything you’d want new. Also, my video archive pretty much covers everything widely available/commonly done on these cars. 👍🏻

Try cleaning the EGR valve.

Carbon buildup is more of a problem for direct injection engines. I find with a more traditional engine all you need to do is drive it often and take it to redline a couple times weekly. The Italian tuneup has never let me down.

@@HiroshimaSpirit I got a 14 Touring and it says it’s GDI and yes ITUs are fun

Mine is a 2014 and definitely isn’t direct injection. The only DE-chassis that was DI was the 1.3L Skyactiv.

@@HiroshimaSpirit Ah I see. Hm always good to double check sources

I don’t recall if there is one. I didn’t replace anything.

I don’t know, ask a mechanic. Sorry!

Consult a mechanic.

I’ve never had to interact with it, but the EGR system should run from the exhaust manifold around to the intake manifold in some capacity. Poke around and you’ll find it.

Check my back catalogue of videos. Details about my intake aren’t that far back. 👍🏻

I don’t, sorry. We didn’t get them here.

The stock 1.5, which is the only engine we got in North America.

@@HiroshimaSpirit Okay, I've got the slow 1.3 75 hp 😶

It’s not a “chip”. The ECU code gets rewritten with computer software. Throttle lag gets eliminated and the tune is optimized for better/increased power delivery.

Look up how to drill out a broken bolt.

HiroshimaSpirit I did. Unfortunately I don’t have the things to do the job so I’m probably gonna have to call a mobile mechanic to help me. Unless you have any other suggestions

Hi Cody. I`m in UK, stud removing kits do exist, try googling it where ever you are located.

I haven’t needed to, so no. Sorry!

@@HiroshimaSpirit Ok, thank you. My car is burning some oils so i thought i will start and change this guy first and see. Thanks for your prompt reply.

Sure, but it’s a pain. If you’re going to undo the battery terminals you might as well remove it.

@@HiroshimaSpirit Yeah, I took a closer look and I think I know what you mean. Thanks!

Haven’t experienced that. I couldn’t tell you. Sorry!

Press the accelerator pedal, if the pitch of the buzzing changes then it's just the servo for the drive-by-wire system doing its thing.

The one in the video has 133k miles. It’s not mileage specific. If you need it you need it.

@@HiroshimaSpirit Hi, Do you think you change the clutch in view of your 133 miles. If yes, the video interests me ;)

Every parts supplier I can find labels it as an idle air control valve. Whatever it is, the car runs better now.

this is correct as I have a mazda demio 2003 jdm that carries the IAC valve on the throttle body, with the tumble shutter controller on the far side of the manifold as in this vid, my issue as of now is it idles with mini fluctuations, when the AC is turned on it will stall after a while of driving, the ac compressor short cycles when rpm is 1000-2000 if i go above it the compressor stays engaged. while at normal idle and ac on while turning my steering constantly the compressor never engages. I am about to change the belt as that is 1 of my suspected issues, I have already cleaned my entire throttle body and value, I didnt spray anything into the tumble as i wasnt sure if the cleaner would damage it.

@@kronicali24 My daughter's 2011 Mazda2 has been idling rough and I have done all the throttle body & MAF cleaning, spark plug changing, new coil round robin swap, basically anything that looked reasonable. I started this after the local dealer kept blaming the AWR dogbone for the rough idle. (Just to prove them wrong, I put in an old link I got off a wrecked 2 and took the car back in - still shaking at idle. They ran diagnostics and said there was nothing wrong?!? So... I gave up on Mazda.) After all the above, I decided to really clean this "IAC" valve and started to pull out the metal spacer / support that you can see at ~3:58 in the video. Don't do this! It holds the rod that rotates all the shutters and if you pull it out far enough, you can pull it out of the shutter in the intake for cylinder #1. Shortly afterwards, you will be removing the intake manifold while cursing yourself for not having bought a good service manual and Mazda for not sorting out the problem. The car still idles rough but runs fine above ~1.1k RPM. It also has much better throttle response with the AWR dogbone torque reaction rod back in. (If you don't have one, get one. They are relatively cheap and work very well.) So that is how my kid is driving it. Since it just made a 2k mile trip to her university, overloaded with all her stuff while still returning 35 MPG, we are not complaining. I still wish I could figure out why it is idling rough.

@@davidklein2224 thanks for the advice, i cleaned my iac valve but it didn't seem to be the issue, when i start the car it revs at 2000 rpm holds for 2-3 secs at 2k then decends to 1.1k it use to idle at a lower rate but after cleaning the entire throttle body it came up to that position. My car sometimes now shut off randomly without ac on and my foot on the break or turning the steering wheel while on flat or decending roads. Then it will struggle to restart turning over several times 4-5 seconds. I have never owned a mazda and this first experience is not sitting well with me. I took it to a mazda specialist so i am awaiting his verdict as he has experienced a similair if not same issue.

So i got my problem solved, it was the crankshaft senor, apparently the wire leads are very close to the compressor pull and some how got play to where the insulation was removed and was shorting the electrical system. the sensor was replaced aswell, she drives well now.

It could be anything. You have to scan the code.

@@HiroshimaSpirit I managed to scan but no error showed up.The mechanic cleared the light and said there's nothing wrong with the engine.This evening,it came back on.

I don’t know then, sorry. I’m not a trained mechanic.

Thermostats suck on most cars, to be fair.

@@HiroshimaSpirit I had to disconnect the ac compressor and then I could have room to do the job thxs for the video on the belt replacement I went ahead and put a new belt while I was doing that thanks for your videos 😊

Under the intake manifold.

@@HiroshimaSpirit Hiroshima brother, is there any video for the intake manifold removal? I need to remove it to acces the oil separator and swap the pcv. Thanks in advance

If there is, it’s not from me. I haven’t had that issue. Sorry!