【Men‘s suit jacket】The Library of Draping, Tamotsu Kondo's draping archive, メンズスーツジャケット

Рет қаралды 10,112

3 жыл бұрын

Draping library for beginners to professional dressmakers
初心者からプロのためのドレーピングライブラリー　
It is common sense that men's design makes patterns in flat drawing, but this is also why there is little variation in design. The future of men's fashion cannot survive by repeating old fashioned designs. We need a flexible way of thinking and more variety of adapted production methods. Therefore, I will first explain how to adapt a suit jacket to a man's characteristic body by draping it.
メンズのデザインは平面作図でパターンを作るのが常識ですが、それがデザインのバリエーションを少なくしてしまっている原因でもあります。昔ながらのデザインを繰り返すだけのメンズファッションでは未来は生き残れません。柔軟な考え方、より多様なデザインとパターンメイキングの方法が必要です。そこで、まずはドレーピングでスーツのジャケットを男性の特徴的な体に合わせる方法を説明します。
【SPUR Dres form】The perfect dress form for draping
www.spur-dressform.com
Which dress form I used:
SPUR SPU-HD-DX36 (Global model size 36)
Scissors: JS-DA-R26
Ruler: 50cm SW50
Curve ruler: KL

Пікірлер: 64

@TravelChannelOne 9 ай бұрын

this is is just golden Mr Kondo...fashion school...patterns today I can finally make my own suits and coats....wow this all in one video....bravo....arigatou

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 9 ай бұрын

I love draping on men's items. The important thing in men's fashion is to consider historical changes. The philosophy of menswear is great, with small upgrades over a long period of time.

@nominn6295 Жыл бұрын

thank you so much i was struggling with books because measurements wasn’t matching😢 i guess i will try draping now appreciate it wholeheartedly thank you

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for watching my video. Please try draping.

@benzafiqatelier3582 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for the useful tutorial.. Loved it thousand times

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video.

@danielvillalobos2159 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, i really appreciate it

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 3 жыл бұрын

Many small tricks are hidden in men's fashion. Knowing the meaning of the trick improves the design.

@fashioninspiration668 Жыл бұрын

👏👏👏

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video.

@nicholasfarmen1296 2 жыл бұрын

So good. Thank you!

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching the video.

@daccaippi 8 ай бұрын

Thanks for your videos, I'm enjoying watching.. I'm a passionate pattern maker, learned different flat pattern making methods, some in school, some on my own, but never tried draping actually.. Now, thanks to you, I plan to try it. Thanks again ❤️❤️❤️

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 8 ай бұрын

The flat pattern was developed in the 19th century. Draping has a much older and longer history. Draping helps to understand more about the theory of flat patterns. The purpose of my videos is to give you a three-dimensional understanding of the theory of dressmaking. I hope you will give it a try.

@fashioninspiration668 Жыл бұрын

Love your work

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching the video. Draping in men's design is also interesting.

@nin7aneci521 Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for this!

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching the video.

@user-oc8xt9uh1s 3 жыл бұрын

Wow perfect👏🏻

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 3 жыл бұрын

It is important to use a good dress form.

@ceciliasurtada 3 жыл бұрын

Perfect!!!

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you

@BelindaTOV 3 жыл бұрын

Great as always. Hope you are well. :)

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your comment. I'm very well. Please take care of your health too.

@sbmchannele520 2 жыл бұрын

Wwow so great👏👏👏👏👍

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching the video. Please share it with your friends.

@Mysicalgreenunicorn03 3 жыл бұрын

Incredible

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

You will be able to make it by draping with reference to the video.

@user-zm2pp1kp7j Жыл бұрын

❤

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video.

@mohcinemo4650 2 жыл бұрын

Merci

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Merci d'avoir regardé la vidéo

@JNNT934 Жыл бұрын

Thank you, for sharing the instruction for men's jacket draping. I wonder, How do you add functional ease to the jacket pattern?

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Functional relaxation of jackets always depends on the target audience. Casual jackets and business jackets are of course different. It also differs between summer and winter jackets. The amount of functional relief also depends on the trend. The amount of functionality and relaxation required for every fashion item depends on who will wear this jacket, when, where and for what.

@sothathappened Жыл бұрын

You've managed to make something complex seem within reach. Thank you! Also, may I ask where I can get the tailor's square ruler that you use? I searched online and cannot find one like it anywhere.

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video. All the items I use in the video are available for you to buy in my online shop. Handwork can be done to great effect with good tools. I encourage everyone to use the new tools that have been developed for modern fashion. www.spur-dresform.com

@smr311 2 жыл бұрын

اكتشفت قناتك اليوم انا جد سعيدة اتمنى لك المزيد من النجاح

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching the video. Share it with your friends.

@imff272 Жыл бұрын

God bles you

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video.

@josephabchee1686 3 жыл бұрын

hello, thank you for sharing and transmitting knowledge. Always was wondering if we could do moulage for men the same way we would for women. Why marking the waist line that much higher ? thank you !

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 3 жыл бұрын

The proportions of the human body are not perfect. The origins of men's lounge suits go back to 19th century England. At that time, men tried to express their admiration for ancient Roman and Greek sculptures with beautiful suits. Often used in suit sewing, insoles are intended to correct the inferiority complex of men. The basic idea is the same as that of Batman's suit or armor. Raising the waist shifts the accent position and makes the lower body appear longer. Everything is an endeavor for what men long for.

@josephabchee1686 3 жыл бұрын

@@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 ; I do hope the jacket fit is not only all about a matter of male ego ! but yes reaching the best proportion harmony possible is quite important indeed ! Thank you !

@josephabchee1686 3 жыл бұрын

it would be quite interesting if you could make a focus on the jacket colar and sleeve ... would you ? thank you

@teresaperez174 3 жыл бұрын

Can u make a video on how u did the sleeve too please

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

The next ladies' coato video will show you a little bit about how to make standard sleeves.

@goofrarf7953 2 жыл бұрын

コメント失礼します。同じ様に作ってみたのですが、後ろ見頃の肩のイセが4.5センチもあるのですがこれはこんなに出ても大丈夫なものなのでしょうか？

@goofrarf7953 2 жыл бұрын

可能であれば袖が出来るところまでの動画も見たいです。見頃はできたのですが袖がわからなく完成できない状態でして。。

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

コメントありがとうございます。試されたのですね、素晴らしい。肩のイセ量は素材やデザインのキャラに合わせて調整しなければなりません。前肩をアイロンで伸ばすのも5ｍｍが限界でしょう。後肩のイセはウールなら1ｃｍも可能でしょうが、化繊が混じっていれば5ｍｍ程度が限界です。そして肩パットの厚みにもイセ量は関係してきます。イセを多く入れれば肩の形状によりフィットし、エレガントな後ろ姿になります。逆にイセを減らすとアームホールに浮きが出てくるのでカジュアルな後ろ姿になります。デザインに合わせることが大切です。

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

袖は袖だけのシリーズでビデオを作る準備をしています。見頃と袖を全部まとめると30分以上になってしまうのでユーチューブではちょっと。。袖の形状にもトレンドがあり、いつも教科書どうりというわけにはいきません。袖山のイセ分量やアイロン、それからひじの曲がり具合や前への振り具合など、つねにトレンドは変化しています。大切なのは「こんな袖にしてみたい」というイメージを持つことです。もうすぐコートで簡単な袖の作り方を公開します。そちらも参考にしてみてください。

@goofrarf7953 2 жыл бұрын

@@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 二つのコメントを返して頂きありがとうございます！また長くなってしまうのですが返信して頂けると幸いです。。自分の形にあったジャケットを今、作ろうと思い今試している途中なのですが、後肩のイセが4.5センチも差があるジャケットってあるのでしょうか？もし肩のイセを減らす場合は後肩の長さを肩先から短くするのみでイセの分量調節は可能でしょうか？今後載せて頂けるコートの袖はジャケットなど様々な用途に合わせて使える方法なのでしょうか？

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

通常肩のイセ、またはダーツが4.5というのはありません。4.5というとほとんど女性のバストダーツです。考えられるのは二つです。ひとつは間違った形状のボディをお使いになっている。当然ドレーピングの多くはボディの形に依存するので、正しいシルエットの道具を使う必要があります。もう一つは肩甲骨線が水平に保たれていない。ドレーピングは布目を正しく見極め、そしてコントロールすることが重要です。肩甲骨線が下がってしまうとAラインになるのでウエストのダーツ分量が増えます。線が上へあがりすぎると肩のイセ、ダーツが必要以上に増えます。ただし肩ダーツは肩だけでなく、アームホールや背中心線へ分散させることも出来ます。間違っても肩先で切ってしまってはいけません。背幅が狭くなってしまいます。

@ZonWuttyi 3 ай бұрын

Thanks ❤❤ I wanna know sloper sleeve pattern. If you don't mind, Can you show me the men's coat sleeve and the women's coat sleeve sloper?

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 3 ай бұрын

You can see how to make some sleeves in the Women's Jacket video. I am currently preparing a video explaining just how to make sleeves, so please wait.

@mehwishshafaat6517 Жыл бұрын

How we drape the Second part of the back with centre back dart. It is so confusing!

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Back parts are more difficult in dressmaking than front parts.You need to find the right balance between seam position and darts.

@fezzehbabaki1054 2 жыл бұрын

🌹🌷🙏🙏🌹🌷❤️🥀🥀🥀

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video.

@6567733 2 жыл бұрын

Hello sir if your dummy size 8 But your client wear size10 or 6 or 4. how can you change the bust the waist the hips to smaller or bigger size without destroying the shape that you created Thanks Please make video about that

@kondosdrapinglibrary9070 2 жыл бұрын

You can change the size of the dummy to a larger size. Please wear a one-piece swimsuit on the dummy. Then, put cotton or pad between the swimsuit and the dummy to change the shape. If you compare it with the model photos taken from the front, back, left and right at that time, you can correct it to the correct shape.