The Mercedes service manuals I have used mention wear limits for brake rotors, and say that they need not be replaced until the wear limits have been reached. So Mercedes does not believe that it is necessary to change the rotors every time you reaplace the brake pads. By "wear limit," Mercedes means the the minimum thickness for the rotor. Brake pads are made of softer material than the rotors, which are steel, and one set of rotors can usually last through about three sets of brake pads. Great videos, very informative and helpful.

Always a pleasure watching your repair and preventive maintenance videos! Your gentle work show as if the car itself has feelings. Keep up the good work!

Strong work, Car D Ologist! I thought I might interject to take extra care when working on brake calipers with Sensotronic Brake Controls as simply unlocking the car or opening one of the doors is enough to trigger the SBC module to clamp down on the calipers without warning. Speaking of the SBC module, mine suddenly failed on me last week as I was attempting to merge into heavy I-4 rush hour traffic... That is not fun. The car suddenly went into limp-home mode which prevents transmission from shifting above 3rd gear & braking power is reduced to 10%. It required 'foot to the floor' to stop. This was on a 2005 W211 E320 CDI w/ 214500 miles on odometer. Brake fluid flushes should probably be done annually on SBC equipped vehicles but eventually from what I've been reading, they all fail eventually. The module is $800 & will require Star SD C4 to reset ECU & purge the DTC's.

Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful for replacing my rear rotors and pads on my 2005 E320 CDI.

I would suggest NOT using anti-seize on the face of the hub where it joins to the rotor. These two components rely on stiction (provided by the clamping pressure of the wheel lugs) to remain properly located - any lubricant in that interface will allow for slippage and undue bending pressure on the wheel lugs. I would recommend a thorough degreasing of both surfaces and, to be safe, replacement of the lug bolts.

U r better than my dealer mechanics. More careful and detailed. 👍

Always clean the seats on the the calliper bracket so the pads locate correctly. I always need too hand file the pad plates so they are correctly flat with the bracket seating. Apply copper grease to this interface. Always clean the rotor with degreaser as the disc and inner friction surface will be covered in machine grease and will contaminate the shoes and pads. Always deface the pads with a fine file to prevent burning. Always back off the parking brake adjustment as it is unlikely that the drum will be the same wear. Most merc parts are made by Delphi anyway so paying Dealer price is not really worth it.

GREAT I NEEDED TO SEE THE TORX CLALIPER PIN MINE WAS STRIPED AND I NEEDED TO DRILL IT OUT AND REPLACE STILL GREAT VEDIO GREAT CARS AS WELL THNK YOU

Good clear work video!!

New SL550: gorgeous red upolstery. I am sure a little OBD2 scanner love would work wonder with CAN faults. Brake Pins: you need to lube pins with high temp silicone else your brakes will be hard instead of nice and gentle without much efforts to stop on a dime. Do *not* use synthetic grease on slides!!

the best in this mercedes matter

Super Video Thank you

It is also a good oppertunity here to check the condition and how much the emergency brake shoes have worn.

Fantastic Videos, like all of them that you've produced! I've followed your video and done my transmission flush, worked like a charm! If you ever do a radiator flush on one of these cars it will be most welcomed. I have the same car with 260,000 miles on it and wanting to put in evans waterless coolant. No garage wants to blow dry my system out, like evans suggests. If you could provide some guidance as to how to do a cooling system flush that will be much appreciated! Thanks Paul

My friend, gobs of lubricant will also collect dirt. You need only a film, generally.

Nice video. Nice SL550. I liked the video but didn't like how you didn't show how you got the 18mm caliper bolts out and how you got them back in and torqued up with the torque wrench . I don't see how you got the leverage so close to the ground.

Please disconnect the negative main battery terminal before starting the brake job..Tq

Los vídeos son muy instructivos enhorabuena "buen trabajo" pero creo que deberías saber que a toda la tornilleria que afecta a los frenos, se le debe aplicar un fijador de roscas, Ejemplo: Loctite 243

Nothing must come between the rotor and the hub, especially not that thick layer you put on, next; you have to disconnect the SBC system, I’ll say you were lucky when you disconnected the e-brake, that the pump didn’t start!

The service manuals for older Mercedes prescribe blue Loctite for all brake and suspension bolts and nuts. Do they still include that?

like the sarcasm "This is anti seize. and it prevents seizing" have you done any wheel bearing grease packs?

Good to see you back! Does your E have the SBC brakes?

SO, my rear rotors appear to be seized! How can I free this up? I will go check to see if I had my emergency brake on though, good call! lastly, it appears that you also put anti seize between the rotor surface that communicates with the wheel, correct?

Nice job ! Just wondering, this E-class is before the face lift, right ? Don't you have SBC ? Didn't you deactivate it before ?

Hola!!!!!! Alguien me puede platicar como cambiar el cubre Polvo del eje trasero del mercedes w211 el boot interno o cómo sacar el eje

You should have taken the 2 guide pins out and cleaned greased them to ensure even brake pad wear.

question...does anything need to be done to my 2003 w211 e320 when changing brake pads and rotors? meaning with the SBC, i heard that the negative battery cable to the SBC battery needs to be disconnected and/or all doors need to be locked for awhile before working on the brakes. can you expand on this...thank you in advance.

what about sliding pins? CBS deactivated?

You have 19mm lug nuts in your description.

you are happy man if you dont have stucked screws.... i am not happy man

SL has a common rail turboDiesel ? ha ha then i would buy one.

He tell you both have to be replaced rotors and breaks

I wanted to learn how to replace just the pads, unfortunately you skipped over this part.