Glad it helped!

Thank you for the feedback, glad it all worked out!

Correct, the component speakers I bought replace the door midrange speakers and upper tweeters and include a crossover. I did remove the center voice coil and never looked back. Some people are concerned about Bluetooth call clarity but I have to say both music and calls sound much better now.

This is the exact comment I was looking for. Thanks so much!

You are welcome, that's why I'm here! Take care.

Yes, I was thinking of that. I use Sika self-adhesive butyl roll when i worked on my car. Trust Mercedes to have it already.

Julian Webb That Mercedes 'insulation ' is a joke . I had one on my '08 and when was ordering '14 just opted out , just like many others , who already had it . I did 5x better with some other stuff

It makes a huge difference! The quality of the speakers in these vans are appallingly low.

​​@@ourkaravanis it possible to just upgrade the speakers and leave the factory headset as is? My Sprinter has a blown speaker and I just want to replace both sides with a better quality for now.

That’s great, thank you for the positive feedback!

Thanks TJ! I've been so impressed with how the system sounds that I never bothered to install the subwoofer that I pre-wired for. Welcome to the channel!

Thank you, I appreciate the positive feedback!

​@@ourkaravan No problem. i'm confused as to why you ignore the factory tweeter wire and instead make the input of the factory woofer the input of the crossover, which in turn controls the new tweeter and new woofer. I assume something is communicating with the factory tweeter via its own wire, and whatever that is should be communicating directly with the new tweeter. Same for the factory woofer. Why not simply connect the new tweeter and new woofer to the old wires of the factory tweeter and factory woofer?

My recollection is that there is no existing wiring that goes between the door speaker and the tweeter location. It’s been a few years now so forgive me if that’s not correct.

I appreciate that, thank you Bill! There are a TON of van channels, so I think the views get shared with many others.

It's explained at 4:14

Jason! Lets see your furniture? :)

It's not completely finished yet, but all the framing is done. I've got to put some riv nuts into my siding and place it in the van yet... that's on the agenda for tomorrow. I've got a 144wb passenger where I'm putting a bed width wise in the back. The bed will be at window level to create maximum space... so underneath, on either side of the bed are going some "garage lockers" made from the 89/20. They feel bombproof so far... anxious to see how well they attach with the rivnuts. I'll try to show you some pics in the light tomorrow!

I can't figure out how to post photos in a youtube comment, so I sent you an email with some photos...

Will you attempt again? Haven't received any yet... cowgirlyogi@gmail.com

Good to know, thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate that information. I definitely used the 5.625 so something must have changed, but based on this I will update the information and links for the 5.75" adapter. Sorry for the trouble and again, thank you, this helps everyone. -Ken

That caught two of us - I'm having to exchange the 5.625 rings today.

Something must have changed but I’m sorry for the trouble. I updated the links yesterday to reflect the 5.75” version

You can do it! Like any project just take your time.

Hi, super happy with it. It’s wired for a subwoofer but I never installed one as I’m really happy with the upgrade as it stands. I would consider some higher quality rear speakers. The rears sound good but I imagine they would sound even better had I chosen some higher up the food chain models. Thanks for following along all this time!

That's correct. The crossover keeps the highs from going to the woofers and the lows from the going to the tweeters. If you don't use one you can use the factory wiring, as that's how it's setup from the factory. Thanks for watching!

Where are you located? It works on my end.

Thank you John! I did pre-wire for a subwoofer, but the system sounds better than I was thinking it would and thus never did install one. As is, the system is good enough 95% of the time, and the other 5% I think about adding the sub for that extra level of awesomeness. Good luck and enjoy the tunes!

@@ourkaravan Even better. Now I don't need to buy one and use the space in the van. Thanks again.

Sorry - another question - how did you mount your crossover to the door. Did you use velcro? thx

Nevermind - found your zip tie response below. Thx

@@johnk.anderson8810 I used either double stick tape or velcro, can't remember which.

Hi, I’m going to guess that not much of the audio stuff carries over. I haven’t physically seen the back of a 2020 head unit but I would be surprised if the wiring harness didn’t change. You’ll have to let me know! Thanks for the kind words, take care!

Good question, it’s been a few years now and I seem to recall them either not needing spacers or using spacers that came with the tweeters. I didn’t buy anything special to get them to work. Thank you for use of the links, always appreciated.

This is the optional leather steering wheel. Feels nice!

Hi, I'm not sure as I didn't try a larger speaker. Let us know what you find.

Hmm, mine does not. Are you using the speaker adapter ring?

Yannick Michaud yes ... 2007-2018 same

The factory tweeters are wired to the door speakers, I believe. I didn’t see any evidence of a crossover but there is a small capacitor (or something) that probably functions as a low cost way to filter out some of the lower tones.

Mines a 2016, same NCV3 generation van.

@@ourkaravan thank you

Oh wait, let me ask if you have the same Audio 15 head unit I have. If so I’m certain it’s the same. If you have a different head unit I can’t be absolutely certain. It wouldn’t make sense for MB to use different harnesses but...

The crossover separates the frequencies so woofers only receive lower frequencies and tweeters only receive higher frequencies. It will prevent distortion and create a cleaner sound.

@@ourkaravan Thank you! I get that but I'm still confused because didn't the factory already do that when they wired the tweeter separately? I guess I'm wondering if there are any high frequencies going to the woofer since it seems the factory split them for us?

I’m under the understanding that there’s nothing but wire between the door speakers and the tweeters high in the dash, including the center channel speaker. Therefore the stock tweeters would be receiving full range audio.

@@ourkaravan Excellent video...thank you. I have what may be a very fundamental question and apologies if this was already covered in any of the previous questions. I plan to replace my front OEM speakers in what I believe is the same rig that this video is depicting (mine is a 2018 Airstream Interstate Grand Tour Ext which is built on a Mercedes Benz 3500 Sprinter Chassis). I plan to replace the front side door panel speakers with a set two-way speakers with the tweeters already built into them; therefore can I not just cut the wires leading to the OEM tweeters mounted in the upper dash corners adjacent to the windshield? It appears from the video that getting to these OEM tweeters is very cumbersome and if I can avoid having to do this I believe this is the route I would prefer to take. Thanks in advance for any advice/guidance on this matter. Steve

Hi, that’s a good question and I’m not positive of the answer. There’s a center speaker in the dash that is hooked to the others. It would make sense for the factory wiring to come out of the head unit and hit the center speaker first, then the tweeters high in the dash, then terminate at the doors. Something to research anyway.

Yes, I believe I used a couple of zip ties to attach it to an existing wire bundle.

Hmm, it's been four years now but I seem to recall the rubber having a lip and groove that pushes into the sheetmetal.

@@ourkaravan Yeah, found another video. You have to remove the plastic bushing too from the door and the frame and then you can put it back on the tube and then insert it in the door and frame. Best way to remove the bushing is with a very small screwdriver and turn the bushing.

Thanks for the reply. My memory for things I did years ago isn’t that great. I can barely remember what I had for breakfast, haha.

Your 2011 should be the same as my 2016. In this video I installed the 6.5" Hertz speakers documented in the video and found here: amzn.to/3XSGwzx. I also described the adapter needed to get the speakers in the door.

Never did. If you use these methods you won’t need to. I think the dealership charges their one hour minimum shop rate.

@@ourkaravan Thanks! Really dig your videos and methodical process. Will be creating the same for my family, possibly with a Transit though. Thanks for the videos!

Thank you! Yeah the amp copies the signal from the front speakers to the rear so you don’t have to do the dealer activation. The Transit may have a completely different setup. Either way good luck!

I removed it. It ties the left and right speakers together and reduces the stereo effect. It's supposed to make Bluetooth calls sound clearer but there were no ill effects from removing it.