Thanks!

Maybe you can do a video showing how to adjust without drilling ???

It could be the cut out switch incorrectly adjusted. The switch is beside the cables and it will make the engine cut out for a fraction of a second to take pressure off the clutch when going back into neutral. before messing with the cables and adjustment, check the switch. Look for a metal tab, usually has rollers on the end.

@Mark mine is cutting out when moving back to neutral. What must be checked or adjusted with the cut out switch. The revs drop for a second when shifting back but half the time it stalls the engine

​@@warrickvr mines doing the same thing. Did you ever figure it out?

Did you figure it out? Mine also stalls when going back to neutral.

That would be the button getting tapped by the cable ... first, Make sure the SLOT is adjusted for the cable going to the outdrive. Should be on the "lower" position. The dogs on the shift 'clutch' in the outdrive are positive contact dogs, and they 'push/pull' on the cable when shifting out of gear, that push/pull operates the sprung lever that "taps" the shift interrupt button. What sometimes happens, is the cable to the remote gets corroded or kinked and causes the assembly to stick, so the button gets pressed long enough for the motor to die. Same can be from corrosion on the cable to the outdrive, but it's easiest to check the remote cable first. Take the remote cable off, and actuate the lever by hand, and see if it still stalls. If it doesn't, then check that the remote lever moves freely when not attached. If it does, then play with the barrel adjustment (reduce or lengthen the throw distance by a turn or two)

Yes

good point Taco great job !!!!

The procedure is exactly the same for both forward and reverse gear. However, you can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns).

Increasing

My first recommendation would be to follow this adjustment procedure. It sounds like the gear box shift cable has naturally stretched from use and just needs adjusting.

No. Its the REMOTE STATION shift cable (the one that goes to your shifter). And when I said "4 turns farther", I mean turn it so it's getting LONGER.

Yes, if you are "getting into gear" without all the ratcheting sounds (forward and reverse), then the shift cable is adjusted correctly. Going somewhat "hard" into gear is normal.

If you don’t here any noise and just throttle is my adjustment wrong?

I appreciate the reply, thank you.

I switched gear oil, I use Royal Purple now 75/140.. Quieted the leg down quite a bit (smoother shifting into gear)... Was using amsoil before.. Just FYI

If you still have room on the threaded rod, but can't get the cable to turn past 5-1/2 " that sounds like something isn't right in the outdrive, or possibly wrong cable part (unless you know it was right to start with). Also make double sure you follow the procedure put a little pressure on the gearbox cable and keep the prop locked.

This is my husbands post but he clearly doesn’t read the comments 😂. This boat runs better now than when we bought it. The marina we bought it from couldn’t believe he was able to fix this. We’ve put LOTS of hours on this boat over the summer and never had a single issue after he made these adjustments. I know that doesn’t answer your exact question, but hope it helps!

No resistance at all. Shifts with ease, just like brand new.

You can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns). Just try one at a time in either direction. The 4 turns guess is for normal "slop" in the cable dimensions, mechanism, stretch, etc.

Yes. And, in reality, that dimension doesn't change from idle to full throttle anyway. The point of going to full throttle is to just ensure you're all the way in gear. (The remote shift cable really only moves when going in and out of gear, not when increasing throttle).

That's what I thought...

Yes, for my boat (some are different), the prop has clockwise rotation in forward gear when viewed from the stern. The reason you push counterclockwise in the procedure is to keep pressure on the gears (simulates the water pushing back on the prop - makes sense, right?)

It's the same procedure for forward AND reverse (sets the shifter for both at once). If the engine dies, it's something to do with the shift cutout switch. The switch is normally in the "open" position allowing 12v to pass to the ignition coil. When shifting from forward to neutral, the switch is designed to momentarily close, which grounds the circuit and kills the ignition. This effectively stops the engine for a split second in order to remove thrust from the drive and allow the clutch to disengage easily. This all happens so quickly that the brief interruption of power is normally not noticed. If the gear box shift cable is sticky, this could cause the shift cutout switch lever to push the switch and kill the ignition when going into reverse. Have someone shift into reverse while you watch the shift cutout switch mechanism and you'll likely see what's going on. You MIGHT also be able to find a happy medium by playing around with the "4 turns" in my procedure (maybe try 2 turns). Some have had luck with spraying silicon spray around the cutout switch mechanism and even into the gear box shift cable itself.