The hardest part about watching these episodes is the wait between episodes. Keep up the great work. Thanks for sharing.

I always enjoy your video. I started working in machine shop making hydraulic cylinders in January of 1986. Now I work in machine shop in a company make urethane products I been there for 25 years. I have help many machinery repairman fix machines. I do like repairing machine, lucky the company I work for they let fix your own machines if you know how to do it. Love know how to scraper in a machine, not sure I would ever used. Something I would like to learn. Keep up the good work Keith. Waiting for to make the bevel gears.

Great work, Keith! Your videos are always top notch. As an old planner operator, I can make a couple of guesses about the differences in the stud sizes. The top two studs on the clapper get the greatest amount of stress, as the tool wants to pivot right at the bottom of the clapper. It's possible that a machinist made the decision in the past to use as large a diameter stud as was practical to beef up the top studs to gain a little more life out of them. Let me give you a little pro tip from the production line of the lathe section : When you have a bolt with a shoulder that's larger than the max thread dia. Rough turn the thread dia. first, then finish turn the shoulder. That way you don't waste any time turning such a long bolt to the diameter of the shoulder, only to go on to turn most of the first part of the bolt to a smaller (thread dia) size. Love your videos!

Thanks again Keith, allways a pleasure to recieve your latest work and explanations.

Keith, It's a really good point to remind viewers of the need to allow the piecework to cool down after roughing out. Enjoyable video, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

Once again,thanks for allowing me to look over your shoulder😁

way to go on odd ball thread nice fix keep up the good work keep videos coming

Thanks Kieth for another great video! It always amazes me watching you make threaded parts! I still can't figure out how you keep cutting the threads at the same spot each time you start a new pass on the threads.

Wake up to get ready for work at 05:30, a new video from vintage machinery is a great start to the day.

In the fifties we were taught centres on both ends and used drive dogs!

This clapper box is something, you did some admirable work on the metal planer so far, cannot wait to see it working.

Good job, enjoyed watching your videos....thanks

I fhink we are looking at the start of regulation of bolt sizes in the 1800's. Very cool. Thanks for the wonderful videos Keith.

Very nice Keith!

Love it Keith. I really enjoy these types of videos you do. Thanks again for sharing.

Thanks for sharing!

Looks good!

Always interesting to watch, thanks for sharing

Looking at the difference in wear on the threads, I have to wonder if the two larger studs were "modern" replacements for broken or bent originals...

Great Work Keith

Keith, Great content.

Thanks for sharing.

Perhaps the reason for the different diameter clapper threads is that while operating the planer, the lower end of the cutting tool is pressed into the clapper, but the upper bolts are in tension and are taking all the load from the cutter in tension on the bolt. This could also account for the thickness difference between the caps. There is all kinds of microscopic movement in the heavily loaded in the cutter and holding apparatus that could account for the differences in otherwise similar parts, especially when taking the huge cuts these machines are capable of.

THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed.

Really nice work, Keith.

Getting close finally. =) Cant want to see it make some chips.

Can't believe that arrived first to view! Great video as always!

Thank you Keith

Great video, you make it look so easy! Also makes me want to go out in shop and turn something!

Beautiful threads again. Mine never turn out as good as yours do every time.

Thank you for pointing out the center marks on the heads and ends of the original studs, and the implication that they were turned on centers using lathe dogs. It's amazing what you can pick up once you understand some of the manufacturing processes.

I'm waiting for the new episodes with more anticipation than Game of Thrones. Thank you Keith.

Nice job! The right comment.

I have run into the oddball size of threads on old machines, and try to get around them or make new parts. I am lucky that my great-grandfather had two sets of these oddball taps and dies. I do not use them often, but ones in awhile you have to go back to them. The standard we enjoy today didn’t come about until WW II when our threaded parts didn’t match the rest of the world. But that’s another story.

*munches popcorn* mrrfmrrf mrrf.... *gulp* can't wait to see that planner plane!

Gotta love those odd ball diameter and thread some of the engines i have are equipped with 1/2 12 and one of them has a couple parts with 3/8 32

I’ve been watching so long that when I click on one of your videos I say your intro in my head as you say it. Every time. 😂

Wow! I do love that Monarch lathe. You are blessed to have one of these, Praise Jesus. Great show Keith.

Love that Starrett 221. Might want to show it and it's tenth reading capability sometime.

Quick tip, Keith: You don’t need to tap the holes for the keying pins. When you knock the studs out the back of the clapper with a hammer, plain pins will just fall out along with the studs.

Keith took a look at the clapper box and got right down to work... nose to the grindstone.

I am betting that the subtle differences in the clapper-box studs was necessitated by experience. They probably found that the two studs needed to be a little heavier, AND there was not enough room or material to make all four the same size. A hundred plus years ago, the Strength of Materials was not a very well understood. Whereas today a part may only be 2x as strong as it needs to be, back then a part may have actually been 5x or 10x as strong and heavy as it needed to be. Thats one reason older machines tended to be so big. If I were to ever get another lathe, a quick change tool holder would be a must have.

First "down under" at 8:10 pm !!!

Hiya Keith

If they are too thin and you break one at least you know a good machinist who can make you another new one.

Great work on the studs one explanation for the different stud size might be they just grabbed what ever was available off the shelf maybe to finish a machine !!!

They don’t call them Centre Lathes for nothing :) Nice video showing a fairly common set of operations. Older lathes often had a small spindle bore so if a long part didn’t go down the spindle between the centre it was. The other benefit is it is highly repeatable. You can take the part out and test fit. The hard part is.getting the centre in both ends without a chuck. :)

Hi Keith , You're getting better with every job now , Maybe the thread size and pitch was an early attempt at Metric done accidentally , then most of the world adopted it to be different to imperial not wanting to use fractions. B U.S.M.= British United Shoe Machinery Company , made nearly all of their machine parts oddball sizes and threads so spare parts were not easy to make and the only available replacement parts obtainable from them .Google it .

you should rig up a rocker tool post for your clapper

Fixing up my 1939 Rivette lathe required some 32nd fractional size tools. I do have some old wrenches in this denominator. I learned in WWII the US manufactures were told told to reduce tools and us 16th fractional sizes. Go back to the 18th century and may 64th was in use.

JOB WILL DONE, KEITH LET'S GO TO WORK...

I wonder if the larger studs were acting as thrust surfaces? If you were taking a heavy cut to a shoulder or under a dovetail they might act to keep the cutter in a repeatable position as it traversed the part.

Your solution is the pragmatic one. There is nothing to be gained by trying to replicate the original oddball thread. If anything it's more likely to speed up the demise of the machine by making it harder to maintain.

Chucks today aren't that cheep Mr money bucks.😁🤣😃😁

Would it be possible for you to do a video on knurling sometime? If you have a project needing some knurling.

I am enjoying this series hugely, and the amazing work by Keith. I am looking forward to seeing the machine working. BUT, (with my museum hat on) I do have a problem: Given that machine will outlast us all and probably KZfaq as well, in perhaps a couple of hundred years an 'Engineering Archaeologist' is going to be documenting the planer, measuring everything, and producing new material to explain the machine in a museum. He is going to find screw threads on certain parts that 'prove to him' that standard pitches were in use at the time. He'll probably also wonder how these were made without centres at either end of the studs. So, did they have readily available chucks at the time the planer was built? It's going to be a very confused story! Could I suggest you stamp the date on all new parts made for the machine? Those stamps are not going to get lost as any videos and documentation may well be.

May have been mentioned, but the last video I watched, was wondering if those top two were added at a later date? Would seem there would be another set of pads above the top two bolts to me if they originally had all 4. Maybe you have a photo of an original ad for reference.

Really nice job. Did you use 4140, or some other high-tensile steel?

5/8-11 is strong. I would bet my life that those bolts won't break or stretch under tool pressure. Even with a tool crash I'll wager gear teeth break before those bolts see forces that come within 50% of their yield stregth.

I probably would have made them 11/16-11 UNC to give it some more stiffness but 5/8 will for sure be more common.

Keith, just watched a past clip about smaller straight edges you and Windy Hill forged. What about souvenir size? 2", 3" 4" Rucker's ,handy for a chap's desktop? Papers and stuff? Not precision ground, maybe a whizz down the side, but looking pretty? Even just for covetng!!!!! I'd buy one! I've got money you could have!

I have noticed and enjoy watching how precise you make things. My question is how precise do you think they were making these parts originally? Where was their "good enough "? One thought I had on the bolts is that they may be making do with what they had. Or, They originally were going to use the bigger bolts till they discovered they were to big . They needed to use up stock so they mixed the two because it was "good enough" and besides no one is going to see it until a hundred years from now Keith Rucker decides to refurbish it. Just a thought from my time doing construction and seeing plans change to "make it work" and "good enough". Especially when time is money.

Use dry ice to freeze your parts for interference fits

Not sure what sort of steel he used for these, but as long as he used some sort of higher tensile strength alloy the new screws should be stronger than the originals even with the reduced diameter.

an exact duplicate would duplicate the wear. New worn out parts? Purists' delight.

Your thumb is looking better.

I’m not sure I understand the differences in stud dimensions. Did you get that off the plans or off the old parts? It occurs to me these might be ‘apprentice’ pieces and as such they are ‘within tolerance’ of the supervisor. Any ways, great work. 👍

Hey Kieth.....Are you going to the Bash this year? I already made all my reservations.

Are there plans to remake the bars on the clapper box? They seem really worn.. Great work so far!

I'm impressed by the qualities of the steels available that long ago.

Up early Mr. Rucker?

Very interesting, but you never talked about Mr. Turing.

If you were feeling cute, you could have really baked some future machinist's noodle. Get some period appropriate scrap steel, cut and turn some 11/16" Whitworth square nuts and studs and rotary broach the heads for a 5mm security hex key. BTW - When is Adam EVER going to finish with his part of the Steam Stoker Engine project?

Thank you,like the machining. So why not machine the holes to same size? Then make all four studs the same? Know that would be more work but.. maybe you like the oddness, keep it as original as possible!

I am curiuos about what the cam setup is that you use on the tool post when threading. I see your able to throw a lever of some form that will pull the tool post out of the thread depth when your at the end of the cut. I am sure you covered it in a prior vid. Can some one tell me where I can see what was done? Thankyou for anyones response

Keith, watching you face off the head of the clapper stud, it appears that the bolt is wobbling, why would that happen? I thought that your chuck was trued up.

I remember you were restoring you great grandpa's Victor safe around 5 years ago... Did you ever finish making the dial?

When working on a restoration like this and you are creating replacement parts, do you typically scrap or keep the original items?

I wouldn't be shrinking them bolts into that cast iron clapper box...

How did they face both sides if they turned it between centers?

If they turned everything between centers, how did they hold the stock to drill the center holes?

Hey Keith, what material did you use and will you heat treat either the studs or the nuts?

Americans, please assist: What are your common thread sizes to 1/2"? I want to buy a set of taps and dies, but don't want unicorns. Do I need both UNC and UNF? Maybe all the UNC and just some UNF, or doesn't it work that way in the US? Many thanks.

How many pins can a lathe chuck chuck? 😉 Oh, and your “don’t forget...” is still missing the apostrophe. 😀

I wonder: Would turning between centers have allowed you to dial in a diameter and apply it to all four studs, doing the batch of studs in parallel instead of one at a time? Back when I had shop access, I found that sneaking up on precise diameters took a lot of time measuring and subtracting. I don't have a good sense for how much time/bother it takes to swap parts when you're working between centers. Which is why I'm asking. I also don't know how much runout you introduce if you remove and replace a part between centers.

1:17 - for the same reason people modify the jets in carburetors and don't mark them; they don't care about the next guy 3:50 - is that ten thou on radius or diameter?

After watching the video: It's entirely possible they actually targeted specifically 0.650" since it's a decent round number. When you're essentially making arbitrary thread sizes then having nice round numbers of thousandths looks nice. It could even be that they were targeting 65 hundredths with ± ½ thou if their measurement tools were only that accurate.

I don't think it would have been worth the trouble to machine the 4 bolts back like the original. What Keith did was absolutely fine for this kind of restoration.

Wouldnt it be easier to use modern HT bolts (or cap screws) and turn the heads down to suit.

Hi Keith, what material did you use to make the bolts ?

Anyone know what's the rate a machinists charges to do this kind of work.

A very noob question: when you were bringing the heads to size, why was there that much runout on it? Id think it'd have none/less if you used the same chuck.

Since this is before Ford and mass production, I imagine there were different machines that didn't match run by men with different backgrounds . If each man was assigned to a different section to make then that's the reason thread sizes don't match

Back in the day, there was no such thing as standards. Probably the clapper bolts were made by two different people. What if you knurled the base of the clapper bolts like wheel studs on hubs?

You need to add thread mics. to all those tools you have! The last threading pass is called a spring pass. You don't actually know if any of the old studs are original. Wondering, did you use stress proof steel? JIM

Not sure why the studs need to be press fit given the locking screws underneath will stop rotation.

You might find the history of screw threads interesting. www.sizes.com/tools/thread_history.htm Cheers Matthew

You're not gonna put square nuts on them?

first like :)

m16.5 x 2.5 metric