Did some one order a hydrodynamic spatula with port and starboard attachments and turbo drive?

You just need a wire EDM and it will pop right off. If you can pay that electric bill you can easily buy one .lol.

LMAO

@@NuclearTopSpot quality reply right here

@@Justin0620 i dont have enough fuses in my house for one....

XD

was my exact thoughts

Try getting this off with a scraper 🤣

so . . . don't fall asleep on the wet spot.

I figure that ones the metal cools down, the print will release by itself.

😆

Ha ha ha Exactly my thoughts

electric meter go brrr

And don't forget a few miles worth of TIG wire and the protection gas. Casting from gold might be more economic.

Electric is for Industry so cheap...so its nothing... like some cents... ^^ meanwhile... the weldmaterial and the gas... also the time wasted on a cnc ... hard to explain .. cool but yea

It's always been the undo button

Sometimes that shit might just as well be welded on lol, but yeah- good shout!

aahahahaha you won!

A little glue stick and it pops right off.

Actually if that’s steel (which it looks like) it wouldn’t weld to aluminum (which seems to be the print surface) so after it cools a few hits with a hammer and chisel should pry it off

@@mizery95 I actually thought of that but I'm not really sure. It would make sense though.

So you buy a new printbed every time? I usually just slightly bend it...

@@mick0matic r/woosh

Well, it depends. If you want delicate geometries, I don't think you can do that with a CNC. Really, they are just making a piece of specially-shaped rough stock.

@@vincentguttmann2231 Check Daishin crown (as a quick example). Idk bout you but thats already pretty detailed (more than this octopus)

@@vincentguttmann2231 I mean.. How delicate do you want? If you're making something out of steel, delicate probably wasn't in the design brief.... But even so, you can just keep putting smaller ball-end mill bits in there and doing more passes. If you were prepared to put all the extra hours into the part, you could keep doing finish passes all the way down to an engraving bit. Still. I'm as curious as everyone else as to how they plan to get it off their build platter. :D

mig welders have been around since 1948 CNC machines have been around since 1958

@@vincentguttmann2231 I think a complex design is a better example. Like trying to print the exhaust side of a turbo.

Ah yes the original metal 3d pen

eh, a plastic 3d printer is a glorified hot glue gun. if it works, it works.

@@zachbrown7272 by that logic humans are also 'glorified hot glue guns' put substance in the top, a softer version comes out at the bottom

@@butwait I mean early hobbyist FDM 3d printers literally used hot glue gun parts, but I do not see any flaws in your logic.

@@butwait Love humans. Hilarious and nutritious.

So what if it's 2 years ago?

@@sepg5084 ummm making a joke at the expense of the algorithm ...... calm down lol ffs take your meds

I prefer to put down gaffers tape so it doesn't stick as much as painters tape but holds better.

Yup, glue stick works a treat for me. When you're done, just spray it with some water and re-spread the glue with your fingers, all while the heated bed is still at temperature. Just watch out to not use too much, or else you will have to soak your bed and print in water over night.

I could imagine this in the corner of a repair shop used to make 4 or 5 things a year worth it. Instant access to a part and no skills required to create. Time and limited production application for this. I could see it.

@@davesnothere8859 I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that anything 100% made out of welding material isn't recommended for anything integral.

@@pseudonymous1382 there a company in Australia that uses it to make ship propellers. Aml3d

@@davesnothere8859 you can probably throw away the print platten afterwards, actually it's welded not printed... cannot imagine, that it'll be usefull for anything

@@sexyfacenation I'm aware of metal 3D printing. That's extruding actual steel, not entirely made out of welding material. Still, I'd be concerned about the layers potentially sheering since they're all in one plane like the grain on a plank of wood.

IIRC, the welds can be stronger so there is some interest as whether this process could be used to make hard wearing surfaces but yes, if any old metal will do...

Do you think that they wouldn't have taken that into consideration? I was more worried about print bed warping because print adhesion is too high, like with some PETGs.

Yeah this makes me want to try hooking up the MIG welder to the 3D printer but its a crappy little 1970s 110v machine with a low duty cycle (that I've hit many times on even small projects). Thankfully it has a thermal shutdown.

It's a time lapse. Probably threw out the shots during the pauses to keep to video going

@you did what on video? 100% duty cycle is a pretty normal thing.

@@davesnothere8859 it really isn't though, talking some pretty expensive equipment for that.

Yeah but the thing is that this doesn't print with 0.4 nozzle :D

@@noonecz5201 bruh, the post is 8 months old.

@@rhyswoolcott And?

@@noonecz5201 True, my CR10 is about 250 watts. I'm not sure what the largest size in diameter MIG wire you can get, maybe 1mm? Which might cut down your print time by half or more, but what is the wattage??? Assuming a MIG pulls 16 amps (you can get more power hungry ones) at 230 volts, using ohms law gives us 14.375 ohms of resistance. I2R then gives us 3,680 watts. (This is apparent power and does not take into account inductive and capacitive reactance to give us a true power figure, but we started with a hypothetical so?...). How long does the average print time take? Say 3 hours being very generous... My CR10 consumes 1500 watts (in twice that time at full power). Our hypothetical eco MIG consumes 11,040 watts. So this might get expensive and failed prints are going to be especially costly. And the non of this takes into account the milling process that has to be done to the rough shape and its electrical consumption.

@@burtybasset4486 You mean 11,040 watt-hours?

you would need to predict deformation due to heat. and model your maching in to that if you want to hit fine tolerances

This Old Tony has a CNC welding video where he tries this

laser sintering is 10x better tech

I've seen a guy make a replica of the statue of liberty im sure given enough time it can be done.

not even want to imagine that :-))

Imagine grabbing a Hot glue gun and speed-Printing a benchy by Hand

Second house?

@@ndcollins Great idea!! BUT! then I have to figure out how to hide the second house from her 🤦‍♂️. Maybe I hide it at your house so we can share it 😎👍

@@jggraphx or get a storage unit with electrical hookups :-)

Simp, be a man and own the house.

Divorce her an marry me coz I'd bloody luv a machine like that. I have a big ol lathe too I like to make all sorts from....... Only joking about divorce I am sure your good lady is gold.

Tilt the table or printhead / bit It's limited but allows significantly more control for over hangs you have to go with electrolytes solutions and alout slower

Casting one example would probably be around the same cost, if you factor in the cost of milling a negativeand the metal price, but it realy depends on what you are welding with, and how you cast. the electric bill wont be that high for the 3d printer, only about €4 being on the high side.

Proof of what concept though?? We already have actaul metal 3d printers that are better in every way imaginable compared to this fancy welder on a cnc machine...

If you want to do something like this and cannot weld simple parts together then you simply cast it.

@@mrMara5a true, it would make sense if you had production runs to make of the part, but for one off stuff I think the cost to design and manufacture a mold is too high. Although, with 3D printing technology anymore you are probably correct..

This already exists, check out the DMG MORI lasertec 65 hybrid

@MichaelKingsfordGray What?

Well SpaceX 3d prints their rocket engine parts...

I suppose it'd be down to the material. If it's all welded together, shit, might be a good as drop- forged

It's no different than having a welder buildup metal by stacking beads before sending it to a machinist to finish the part. If the settings are dialed incorrectly (based on the material properties), having a computer do the work (vs a human welder), the quality and repeatability would be just as good (if not better) than having a master welder perform the work.

@@artrock8175 Problem is that the process might have weak points in it because of the grains of the metal and possible porosity because of the welding, even if done by a machine. I take it from my experience working in a CNC machine shop, machines are stupid and automation isn't always that good.

@@deadredherring I can't argue with that! xD I personally wouldn't trust a structural part made in the way shown in the video.

That could be done with simple milling bit changes, the one he used was at least an inch wide, kinda hard to get good detail with huge bits.

@@thebluestig2654 i know and believe me I'm not here to hate. This Is most definitely awesome. Now that I think about it one more question comes in to mind. with what kind of spatula are they going to remove this octopus from the print/mill bed ;).....nah just fooling around

Not really. The key advantage of this is not needing a massive billet in order to machine your part which is a big reason that machining is so expensive. So waste is minimal in this regard. Also.. with proper forethought getting the base off would be easy. Simply need to flip over and machine it off.

@@EVLS10 ... the thing is wig wire and gas is extreme expensive.. so even then it might be cheaper to cut it from a block out...

@@kleinfeicht you mean mig wire? And the gas wouldn't actually be a problem. In a sealed cnc you would only have to purge the oxygen and then one the entire space is filled with argon or your preferred blend then you would be fine.

or you could print gears in place and made it articulated. this is really a start not a finished idea.

With hard work!

Band-saw

flip over and mill again... )))

@@maksguzz2147 It's too easy, you need to use a file to remove excess material. :)

@@ShcherbynaM I worked in a lab with a metal printer and this is the correct answer. Use a band saw to remove the part then mill the build plate for reuse.

Assuming this is based off a TIG welder- no porosity (when done properly), and pretty much any alloy you can get the wire feed for.

This is just a plain old MIG gun, nothing more