maybe, I think if you could get zip quality osb without the coating, I would do that. but the other osb I see for sale is trash. So I wouldn't want that.

What is the R-rating of those 12 inch SIP's plus the overall rating?

@@StellarFella R-48 for 12" SIPs

Where are you located? Matt's house is in Austin, TX, and I'm wondering about the viability of SIPs in austin.

@@h57s East Coast.

Love this idea. I'm getting ready to build in Minnesota and could use this. How did you handle the detail of where the wall meets the sip? What panels did you go with?

Me too.

As a human I am wary of the same thing... anticipating another human to provide what you need once you've given them your money. For all the practical/logical building science that Matt espouses he seems to also promote items that will essentially be disposable or not repairable in the future. 🤑💰💰💰💲💲💲

Historically analog technologies hold their value better than digital ones.

@@muffemod Except it’s an app and wireless so digital by definition

@@jhealy3718 What kind of app did they use before the 20th century? 😆🤣

@@muffemod The skylight operates from an app - nothing else is really relevant.

I think that's a great question.

Only if the contractor builds a road underneath the metal roof. My uncle has his roof done that way. Once it was finished the contractor handed my uncle a map . A map to be able to walk on the roof. There is a lot of the roof he can't walk on unless he wants to damage the very expensive roof.

I have a 24 ga metal roof on diagonal 2x4 sleepers at 16" oc spacing. You can walk on it, just be careful, don't jump up and down...

8:18 it looks like the venting is between the 5/8 plywood and the insulation. The metal panels would sit on top of the 5/8 plywood, providing support.

@@rogerflorida1498 yes, except for when you look at the diagonal during strips @8:31

How does that work

@@hunterjackson802 The solar mounts clip on the metal ridges instead of penetrate the metal sheeting.

Matt recommends larger overhangs (usually 2 feet) to give more protection from rain/water "splash back" onto the lower portion of the wall, where most rot occurs.

Exactly the same for me. Decisions decisions

And they last forever ! My older home has the original metal roof no leaks

Wood facia or concrete board is what I would do

standing seam > metal shingles

@@christopher6161 just curious, what's the benefit?

@@christopher6161 that's what I meant 👍

@@koljag5 massive uplift wind rating on good standing seam vs metal shingles limited to 120mph...easier to repair and get replacement parts...easier to find installers...probably cheaper for most installs...metal shingles also use exposed fasteners, and best case they are only covering the fastener on top of the shingle below it with another shingle so very little defense against ice dams/wind-driven rain Source: I used to shill metal shingles

@@christopher6161 perfect, thank you!

Short answer yes, technically. but it is still significantly better than building it traditionally and you do need the strength. That’s some point you will have to sacrifice somewhere to guarantee structural integrity. And some small screws won’t really conduct that much energy in the end.

Commonly referred to as Thermal bridging

Stainless steel screws can make quite a difference here. Check out the graphics on this report (which is focused on attachment methods for exterior rockwool like Z channels etc.) www.rdh.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/NAPHC-2014-Thermal-Bridging-Through-Exterior-Insulation.pdf

😂

@@buildshow Matt , Loving the steel roofing content. Just remember … Just because a steel roof panel is a thicker gauge of steel … does not always mean that is a superior product . Generally speaking , if a metal roof supplier is boasting that their panel product is a 26 gauge .. or a 24 gauge steel . That is all fine , but what quite a few people fail to acknowledge is that the steel tensile strength of the panel is extremely important as well . The roof steel tensile strength is the strength of the panel or hardness of the panel . If you are talking about a thicker gauge of steel , usually those thicker panels are a much lower psi tensile strength ( tensile strength in PSI ). This is due to the fact the thicker gauge steel panels need to be softer to allow the coil stock to be fed and formed by the forming machines. The softer the steel .. the lower psi tensile strength … the less resistant the panel is against storms / hail / debris . Truth be told , if you look at and study the actual physical thickness of a steel panel with a micrometer and you start comparing the differences between steel panels actual thickness of the panel on lets say a 28 gauge vs a 26 gauge .. its amazing how little of actual physical thickness differences there are between “ Gauges Of Steel “ . - Keep up the great content !

I’m a professional firefighter. We’ve seen houses with 3 or 4 roofs, and I can only imagine cutting through a roof with the layers his house has. We might need a longer bar!

You need to talk to an engineer. Fwiw: I am planning on something similar in Michigan on a mid 40's lake front cottage. I'm tearing off the saggy 2x4 roof that has some 2x6 scissors added. While I'm at it, gonna rip off the back 24' and turn the crawlspace into a 800 Sq ft basement and toss in some of those European triple glazed windows and door walls. May even use ICF on basement walls. Depends where the budget lands, might be a partial icf for the exposed areas.

Just install a solar water heater?

We used to have one which we removed and couldn't afford to replace. That was fantastic in the fall in South Central Texas nights. Bring in the cool air from outside also to clear cooking odors quickly, or those rare winter days when it warms up in the high 70s and you want to air out your house.

Keep it they’re fantastic! And way cheaper to run then AC!

I asked the same. They seem like a nice easy product to work with and you can order to size.

All that foam wont make any difference if you have a snow load. Meaning it wont compress the foam. Those pannels are very stiff and the load your putting on it with snow is very even.

I'm also in a wildfire area. I would think that the Hunter panel would NOT be the way to go for that. Embers could be sucked up into that vented space which is a sandwich of Poly-Iso and CDX, both of which are flammable. The other assembly with furring strips below the metal roof could be made more fireproof by using a fireproof peel and stick barrier and a non-combustible material or coating for the furring strips I would think.

@@kenyonstewart7120 I think you need to consider a few factors here... how flammable the surfaces are as well as the ember size. Really small embers burn out very quickly - this is why vent screens with mesh size smaller than 1/8" are part of WUI requirements. So the intake/exhaust venting screens are critical. Not mentioned here is the heat resistance. Matt keeps referring to polyiso which melts at a fairly low temperature. Personally I would like to see what the assembly might look like with Rockwool for a WUI assembly.

@@stevejahr5527 agreed, I am planning on using Rockwool at least for the outer layer and a fireproof peel and stick membrane under that. Ours is a remodel, not a new build, but down to the studs. Cladding will be either metal or one of the more modern looking Hardy Commercial products.

You could do 9 Roofs for the price of one. Lol sounds logical

It wasn't that expensive pre-pan-demic. I paid about $34K for 3200 sq ft roof (Late 2019). If your not going to stay in the home more than the lifetime of a shingle roof (about 15 years) than it does make sense. However I am planning on staying on my home, and as material & labor costs go up (as they already are), then it makes sense.

That’s really really high. Metal should not be 9x an asphalt roof price.

@@buildshow Its pretty high. My neighbor got quoted $46K for about 2200 sqft roof using r-panel back in July. Perhps prices have dipped some.

Please don't say the cedar shingles are still under the steel.

@@fhuber7507 sounds like shingles, old metal roof, new metal roof all on top of each other.

@@fhuber7507 we had them removed. The roofing company assured us it was fine to install the roof onto the old decking. I took some time lapse and some drone footage that I think will make for an interesting video some day when I get around to editing it all in.

@@drewdoestrucks Your roof is totally fine. I question how much building some of these “building science” folks have actually done. It seems to me they’ve done an awful lot of sciencing and not a whole lot of building.

@@hotfudgemoney yeah we will see how it does this winter. I think I will probably focus on insulating between the attic and the living space more than insulating the roof from the attic. Home construction is changing but it’s hard to find ways to adapt this new airtight tech to homes built 150 years ago. All about saving money but not sure how much energy it would actually save versus thousands in added costs.

Black

Solar PV are great. SkyCool panels could reduce energy consumption on cooling. How about bifacial panels on a green roof #agrovoltonics For colder climates PV/T panels could be more useful.

On the base roof deck, Matt used 5/8" Zip sheathing (which has an integrated WRB on the surface) and taped seams, so no need for a peel & stick there. Then 4 inches of Poly Iso, followed by another layer of Zip, then the peel & stick before the battens & metal panels. His set-up adds an incredible amount of extra protection and R-value, but generally out of reach financially for most average customers.

Good luck finding a roofer in Ga to do anything outside of put it up as fast as humanly possible get that money and disappear. In North Ga when you say metal roof they start salivating. Most get their materials from B&M metals in murrayville. Check with them on getting a reputable installer.

You in north or south ga?

North

Presuming the roof decking is in good shape and you _don't_ want to add the extra foam insulation there are companies that will put it down much like a normal re-roofing job. I was looking at having that done not too long ago (Erie Metal Roofs was one quote I got), the pricing was about 25-50% more than a 25 year shingle job.

@@michiganengineer8621 Yeah, I was looking for a roof decking replacement plus foam and metal roofing.

@@HawgPyle As long as the rafters are intact it should be doable. Best bet would be to see if there are any local metal roofing specialists in your area

Matt has covered that before... you basically start by sawing off all the existing rafter tails and bringing the siding all the way up. Then you have the Monopoly Frame house Matt talks about.

All comes down to cost Peter..People here aren't educated on the benefits of enclosing the building envelope (Air tightness) is met with so much resistance. If only we had 300mil here to drive down the cost (based on demand) & keep things competitive. I enjoy how Nth America/Europe concentrate on energy efficiency/air quality inside the home as opposed to the tripe we get served here in Oz Troy

its mineral wool blanket in my area (FNQ) and the foil is facing inwards, not topping. As for making it better.. look up 'perfect wall' from BSC and draw your conclusions. After 3 buildings I arrived at steel beams (rafters), wire mesh then vertical 70x45 or 90x45's as battens with the space between filled with mineral wool blanket R2.5 (m^2 K / W, 90mm thick, KNAUF multi-use roll) sitting on the mesh and the whole thing covered with KlipLock, to get no screw penetrations. This buildup is better than squeezing the mineral wool at the battens and thus insulates better. If you want to top this you'd run a 2nd layer of battens/mineral wool perpendicular to the first set, to reduce the thermal bridging through the wood. Was the last building I did and is the coolest under the roof. Also venting a metal roof will definitely cause condensation on its underside during night time in the tropics.. I wouldn't advise to do that.